... but was thwarted by Home Depot.
I was advised here that dowel holes would need to be drilled, er,
*precisely*.
I wanted to make a test dowel joint using a Beadlock jig as a dowel jig.
As far as I can see, the only obvious source of inaccuracy is if the jig
moves because it isn't clamped well enough. That did in fact happen on
the first attempt, but better clamping cured it. I would of course need
to pay attention to the reference faces and edges, but it looks doable.
Next I wanted to "test" the joint to see if the faces would line up.
So I went over to HD to get some fluted dowel pieces (preferably) or
some regular 3/8" dowel stock. I took one of the drilled test pieces to
check the size. No fluted dowels; they stopped carrying them. Off to the
molding aisle. The oak 3/8" dowels were too big, and not just by a hair.
You really could not have forced them into the hole. I decided (again,
just for a test) to check the pine 3/8" dowels. Naturally, those were
too small. Not a "Goldilocks" to be had.
I don't know what HD expects people to use dowels for, but whatever it
is, wouldn't it be likely that at least one end would have to fit into a
hole?
I know. No surprise.
And now, some classic movie dialogue:
Vinny Gambini: [Vinny hears a drip in the motel bathroom] Weren't you
the last one to use the bathroom?
Lisa: So?
Vinny Gambini: Well, did you use the faucet?
Lisa: Yeah.
Vinny Gambini: Then why didn'tcha turn it off?
Lisa: I DID turn it off!
Vinny Gambini: Well, if you turned it off, why am I listening to it?
Lisa: Did it ever occur to you it could be turned off AND drip at the
same time?
Vinny Gambini: No. Because if you'd turned it off, it wouldn't drip!
Lisa: Maybe it's broken.
Vinny Gambini: Is that what you're saying? It's broken?
Lisa: Yeah. That's it, it's broken.
Vinny Gambini: You sure?
Lisa: I'm positive.
Vinny Gambini: Maybe you didn't twist it hard enough.
Lisa: I twisted it just right.
Vinny Gambini: How could you be so sure?
Lisa: [sighs] If you will look in the manual, you will see that this
particular model faucet requires a range of 10 to 16 foot-pounds of
torque. I routinely twist the maximum allowable torquage.
Vinny Gambini: Well, how could you be sure you used 16 foot-pounds of
torque?
Lisa: Because I used a Craftsman model 1019 Laboratory Edition Signature
Series torque wrench. The kind used by Caltech high energy physicists.
And NASA engineers.
Vinny Gambini: Well, in that case, how can you be sure THAT's accurate?
Lisa: Because a split second before the torque wrench was applied to the
faucet handle, it had been calibrated by top members of the state AND
federal Department of Weights and Measures... to be dead on balls accurate!
[She rips a page out of a magazine and hands it to him]
Lisa: Here's the certificate of validation.
Vinny Gambini: Dead on balls accurate?
Lisa: It's an industry term.
Vinny Gambini: [tosses paper away] I guess the fucking thing is broken.
- "My Cousin Vinny"
In article <[email protected]>, Greg Guarino
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I don't know what HD expects people to use dowels for, but whatever it
> is, wouldn't it be likely that at least one end would have to fit into a
> hole?
Greg,
I have one of these dowel formers. It works great - resizes & flutes in
one operation. It also has a built in pencil type sharpener thingy to
chamfer the dowel ends.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/dowelformer.aspx
Hope it helps...
Joe
"Greg Guarino" wrote:
> ... but was thwarted by Home Depot.
>
> I was advised here that dowel holes would need to be drilled, er,
> *precisely*.
>
> I wanted to make a test dowel joint using a Beadlock jig as a dowel
> jig.
<snip>
---------------------------------------------
You want round dowels, you need a dowel plate.
Lew
On 1/18/2014 7:20 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> ... but was thwarted by Home Depot.
>>
>> I was advised here that dowel holes would need to be drilled, er,
>> *precisely*.
>>
>> I wanted to make a test dowel joint using a Beadlock jig as a dowel
>> jig. As far as I can see, the only obvious source of inaccuracy is if
>> the jig moves because it isn't clamped well enough. That did in fact
>> happen on the first attempt, but better clamping cured it. I would of
>> course
>> need to pay attention to the reference faces and edges, but it looks
>> doable.
>> Next I wanted to "test" the joint to see if the faces would line up.
>>
>> So I went over to HD to get some fluted dowel pieces (preferably) or
>> some regular 3/8" dowel stock. I took one of the drilled test pieces
>> to check the size. No fluted dowels; they stopped carrying them. Off
>> to the molding aisle. The oak 3/8" dowels were too big, and not just
>> by a hair. You really could not have forced them into the hole. I
>> decided (again, just for a test) to check the pine 3/8" dowels.
>> Naturally, those were too small. Not a "Goldilocks" to be had.
>>
>> I don't know what HD expects people to use dowels for, but whatever it
>> is, wouldn't it be likely that at least one end would have to fit
>> into a hole?
>>
>> I know. No surprise.
>>
>
> I just saw fluted dowels in Harbor Freight the other day. Might be worth a
> check with them Greg.
>
Also you can flute your own by taking linemans pliers and using the
clamping end toward your hand, (mine has just straight across hashing)
Don't know what to call it. I just take my dowels and lightly grip them
with the plier and it flutes them.
Also to get the right size dowel, by bigger than you need and cut it
down.. I created my own dowel plate by drilling a hole in some mild
steel. I just drive short lengths through. If you need long lengths see
Mathias' videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUmlMtpAj9o
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3MNbm3NCHE
Very simple jigs that I would think would work.
--
Jeff
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 19:20:56 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Greg Guarino wrote:
>> ... but was thwarted by Home Depot.
>>
>> I was advised here that dowel holes would need to be drilled, er,
>> *precisely*.
>>
>> I wanted to make a test dowel joint using a Beadlock jig as a dowel
>> jig. As far as I can see, the only obvious source of inaccuracy is if
>> the jig moves because it isn't clamped well enough. That did in fact
>> happen on the first attempt, but better clamping cured it. I would of
>> course
>> need to pay attention to the reference faces and edges, but it looks
>> doable.
>> Next I wanted to "test" the joint to see if the faces would line up.
>>
>> So I went over to HD to get some fluted dowel pieces (preferably) or
>> some regular 3/8" dowel stock. I took one of the drilled test pieces
>> to check the size. No fluted dowels; they stopped carrying them. Off
>> to the molding aisle. The oak 3/8" dowels were too big, and not just
>> by a hair. You really could not have forced them into the hole. I
>> decided (again, just for a test) to check the pine 3/8" dowels.
>> Naturally, those were too small. Not a "Goldilocks" to be had.
>>
>> I don't know what HD expects people to use dowels for, but whatever it
>> is, wouldn't it be likely that at least one end would have to fit
>> into a hole?
>>
>> I know. No surprise.
>>
>
>I just saw fluted dowels in Harbor Freight the other day. Might be worth a
>check with them Greg.
Or Lee Valley - or any decent hardware store or lumber yard (which
Home despot is neither)
Greg Guarino wrote:
> ... but was thwarted by Home Depot.
>
> I was advised here that dowel holes would need to be drilled, er,
> *precisely*.
>
> I wanted to make a test dowel joint using a Beadlock jig as a dowel
> jig. As far as I can see, the only obvious source of inaccuracy is if
> the jig moves because it isn't clamped well enough. That did in fact
> happen on the first attempt, but better clamping cured it. I would of
> course
> need to pay attention to the reference faces and edges, but it looks
> doable.
> Next I wanted to "test" the joint to see if the faces would line up.
>
> So I went over to HD to get some fluted dowel pieces (preferably) or
> some regular 3/8" dowel stock. I took one of the drilled test pieces
> to check the size. No fluted dowels; they stopped carrying them. Off
> to the molding aisle. The oak 3/8" dowels were too big, and not just
> by a hair. You really could not have forced them into the hole. I
> decided (again, just for a test) to check the pine 3/8" dowels.
> Naturally, those were too small. Not a "Goldilocks" to be had.
>
> I don't know what HD expects people to use dowels for, but whatever it
> is, wouldn't it be likely that at least one end would have to fit
> into a hole?
>
> I know. No surprise.
>
I just saw fluted dowels in Harbor Freight the other day. Might be worth a
check with them Greg.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 19:20:56 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> ... but was thwarted by Home Depot.
>>>
>>> I was advised here that dowel holes would need to be drilled, er,
>>> *precisely*.
>>>
>>> I wanted to make a test dowel joint using a Beadlock jig as a dowel
>>> jig. As far as I can see, the only obvious source of inaccuracy is if
>>> the jig moves because it isn't clamped well enough. That did in fact
>>> happen on the first attempt, but better clamping cured it. I would of
>>> course
>>> need to pay attention to the reference faces and edges, but it looks
>>> doable.
>>> Next I wanted to "test" the joint to see if the faces would line up.
>>>
>>> So I went over to HD to get some fluted dowel pieces (preferably) or
>>> some regular 3/8" dowel stock. I took one of the drilled test pieces
>>> to check the size. No fluted dowels; they stopped carrying them. Off
>>> to the molding aisle. The oak 3/8" dowels were too big, and not just
>>> by a hair. You really could not have forced them into the hole. I
>>> decided (again, just for a test) to check the pine 3/8" dowels.
>>> Naturally, those were too small. Not a "Goldilocks" to be had.
>>>
>>> I don't know what HD expects people to use dowels for, but whatever it
>>> is, wouldn't it be likely that at least one end would have to fit
>>> into a hole?
>>>
>>> I know. No surprise.
>>>
>> I just saw fluted dowels in Harbor Freight the other day. Might be worth a
>> check with them Greg.
> Or Lee Valley - or any decent hardware store or lumber yard (which
> Home despot is neither)
Who mentioned Home Depot?
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 18:56:45 -0500, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
>I don't know what HD expects people to use dowels for, but whatever
it
>is, wouldn't it be likely that at least one end would have to fit into a
>hole?
Guess you'll just have to make your own.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70555&cat=1,42524