BB

Bruce Barnett

29/05/2004 8:23 PM

14" Bandsaw w/6 1/16" riser block: blades don't fit


I just assembled a Jet 14" (Deluxe) Bandsaw with a Riser block.
I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw. I loosened/lowered the blades,
and tried the one that came with the kit, along with a Timberwolf blade.
The saw wheels are aligned properly. The blade ALMOST fits on the wheels.

I was unable to find any adjustment besides the blade tension knob.
Am I missing something?

I measured the riser block, and it's 6 1/16" high. That adds an 1/8"
of an inch extra length necessary to the blade. Is this the problem?

I'll call Jet Tuesday, but I was wondering if anyone have some suggestions.

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Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
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This topic has 22 replies

BF

"Bruce Ferguson"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

30/05/2004 7:51 PM

I will throw in another question. I know the thread was about resawing,
but what about green wood? Cutting bowl blanks ect. My saw is a 14" delta
with riser blocks. 1/2 inch blade too wide for bowl blanks?? I have a Jet
1236 so 12" would be max I guess.

Bruce
"Bruce Barnett" <spamhater95+U040530062538@grymoire.com> wrote in message
news:c9cf9u$o4l$0@208.20.133.66...
> Bruce Barnett <spamhater95+U040529161537@grymoire.com> writes:
>
> > I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw.
>
> Thanks, Gang. Dumb error, as it turned out.
> (Although the manual did not mention this is a possible/required
adjustment).
>
> At the bottom on the tension knob bolt is a nut. It was 2 inches from
> the end of the bolt. I had to loosen the nut, which caused the
> entire wheel to lower one inch.
>
> Before I did that, the minimum blade length before tensioning would
> have been 105 1/4 inches. I was thinking unkind things.
>
> I wonder if some guy at Jet was chuckling at himself and was purposely
> setting the "default" length to be "maximum aggravation." I have no
> proof of this, but I also had a threadless "nut that could not be
threaded."
> (grin)
>
> Anyhow - today I get to turn on the motor for the first time!
>
> One more question....
>
> I bought 2 Timberwolf blades.
> One of them was 3/4" - which I bought for resawing.
> I figured the wider the blade, the straighter the resawing.
> (Newer owned a bandsaw before).
>
> I haven't opened the package yet, so I can return it.
> Anyhow - I was wondering if I should return it for a 1/2" or 5/8" blade
instead.
>
> The "Duginkse Bench Guide" says the maximum practical size for
> non-commercial band saws is 1/2" because of the required tension for a
> 3/4" is too high.
>
> The Jet specs say it's good for 3/4". And I have a low-tension blade.
>
> Does a 3/4" cut straighter than a 1/2"?
> Is a low-tension 3/4" pushing the limits of a 14" Bandsaw?
> Has anyone tried both?
>
> This one reference suggests the 3/4" will work fine.
>
>
http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=5jp92vsc42lqe10sl5l6rit2jmdtd0u81t%404ax.com
>
>
> --
> Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
> $500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

Ww

WD

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 12:55 AM

On Sun, 30 May 2004 16:11:42 -0500, Sawdust Bytes <news@sawdustbytes.com> wrote:

The problem it seem I find it very hard to detect the blade to stop "flutter".
The blade continue to "flutter" even after I adjust to near the max.

>The Suffolk blades are "low tension" blades and have never caused any
>trouble with my Jet with riser blocks. I do try to remember to detension
>the blade after using it. I use the 3/4" for resawing and have other
>widths for other purposes.
>
>The low tension blades take a little getting used to. You tighten them,
>loosen them until they start to flutter, and then retighten them just a
>little.
>
>Slowly I turned...
>Randy
>
>
>
>Bruce Barnett wrote:
>> Bruce Barnett <spamhater95+U040529161537@grymoire.com> writes:
>>
>>
>>>I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw.
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Gang. Dumb error, as it turned out.
>> (Although the manual did not mention this is a possible/required adjustment).
>>
>> At the bottom on the tension knob bolt is a nut. It was 2 inches from
>> the end of the bolt. I had to loosen the nut, which caused the
>> entire wheel to lower one inch.
>>
>> Before I did that, the minimum blade length before tensioning would
>> have been 105 1/4 inches. I was thinking unkind things.
>>
>> I wonder if some guy at Jet was chuckling at himself and was purposely
>> setting the "default" length to be "maximum aggravation." I have no
>> proof of this, but I also had a threadless "nut that could not be threaded."
>> (grin)
>>
>> Anyhow - today I get to turn on the motor for the first time!
>>
>> One more question....
>>
>> I bought 2 Timberwolf blades.
>> One of them was 3/4" - which I bought for resawing.
>> I figured the wider the blade, the straighter the resawing.
>> (Newer owned a bandsaw before).
>>
>> I haven't opened the package yet, so I can return it.
>> Anyhow - I was wondering if I should return it for a 1/2" or 5/8" blade instead.
>>
>> The "Duginkse Bench Guide" says the maximum practical size for
>> non-commercial band saws is 1/2" because of the required tension for a
>> 3/4" is too high.
>>
>> The Jet specs say it's good for 3/4". And I have a low-tension blade.
>>
>> Does a 3/4" cut straighter than a 1/2"?
>> Is a low-tension 3/4" pushing the limits of a 14" Bandsaw?
>> Has anyone tried both?
>>
>> This one reference suggests the 3/4" will work fine.
>>
>> http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=5jp92vsc42lqe10sl5l6rit2jmdtd0u81t%404ax.com
>>
>>

Ww

WD

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 9:58 AM

On Mon, 31 May 2004 07:53:58 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:

Applying WD-40 after each secession would that not damage the tires and also
wood chips or dust will ahere to the blade causing more problems?

>My preferred width. Keep the number of TPI low and, unlike resawing, some
>good kerf-clearing set in 'em.
>
>Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the blade
>backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry, oak
>or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.
>
>"Bruce Ferguson" <fergusrb@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
>news:10bl6nknvc4uk40@corp.supernews.com...
>> I will throw in another question. I know the thread was about resawing,
>> but what about green wood? Cutting bowl blanks ect. My saw is a 14"
>delta
>> with riser blocks. 1/2 inch blade too wide for bowl blanks?? I have a
>Jet
>> 1236 so 12" would be max I guess.
>

Ww

WD

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 9:09 PM

On Mon, 31 May 2004 15:38:23 -0700, Owen Lowe <onlnlowe@easystreet.com> wrote:

Lee Valley catalog identify their Viking bandsaw blade as Timber Wolf, can you
confirm it from Suffolk Machinery?

I screw up a NEW Timberwolf 1/2" blade by cutting a radius less than 4" dia.,
now thinking of replacing it from Lee Valley?

>I get my blades directly from Timberwolf (Suffolk Machinery). I follow
>Timberwolf's recommendations when cutting green wood for turning blanks
>by using a 3/8" 3 tooth with a mildly wide set to the teeth to keep the
>wet saw dust from binding the blade as it heats, steams and swells
>inside the kerf. It's the AS series and costs about $18.
>
>When using a 1/2" blade, the min. diameter you could cut would be about
>5". A 3/8" blade would turn a 2.5" circle.

Ww

WD

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

01/06/2004 11:15 AM

On Mon, 31 May 2004 23:12:23 -0700, Owen Lowe <onlnlowe@easystreet.com> wrote:

>How did you screw up a blade by attempting a too tight curve? The only
>thing I've run into when that happens is I can't keep the blade tight
>enough to the line, so end up making faceted cuts.

The blade still cut, but drift excessivly, before that I tested it and the drift
is ZERO.

Beside Timberwolf, have you tried Wilke bandsaw blades?

Thanks

Ww

WD

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

01/06/2004 11:20 AM

On Tue, 1 Jun 2004 10:38:35 -0400, "Tony Manella" <ndd1atprolog.net> wrote:

I have to agree with you on their customer service, I prefer buying from Lee
Valley. I am sure they will stand behind what they sold.

Thanks

>Lee Valley's blades are Viking brand and are NOT made by Timberwolf. I
>bought a viking, which broke the first time I used it. Being under the
>impression I had a Timberwolf I called Suffolk. I got quite a rude response
>from the customer service there who told me to call that (*&$#) Canadian
>company. I won't buy a Timberwolf due to this ignoramus. The Viking are a
>good blade though and you always have the great customer service of Lee
>Valley (who exchanged blades for me without question) behind them.

bR

bonomi@host122.r-bonomi.com (Robert Bonomi)

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 6:04 PM

In article <ek2mb0l1cn2hjo781bbmnunuqi6i2j783u@4ax.com>,
nospambob@vcoms.net <nospambob@vcoms.net> wrote:
>Have read suggestions to use Pam as lubricant on blades.

"Pam-fering" your blade is always a good idea! <groan>


>On Mon, 31 May 2004 07:53:58 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
>>Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the blade
>>backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry, oak
>>or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.
>

Gg

"George"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 7:53 AM

My preferred width. Keep the number of TPI low and, unlike resawing, some
good kerf-clearing set in 'em.

Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the blade
backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry, oak
or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.

"Bruce Ferguson" <fergusrb@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
news:10bl6nknvc4uk40@corp.supernews.com...
> I will throw in another question. I know the thread was about resawing,
> but what about green wood? Cutting bowl blanks ect. My saw is a 14"
delta
> with riser blocks. 1/2 inch blade too wide for bowl blanks?? I have a
Jet
> 1236 so 12" would be max I guess.

Gg

"George"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 1:47 PM

Hasn't so far - 5 years or so - on mine, and the purpose is to clean the
sticky gunk off the blade, along with the wood acids that might do to it
what happened to Morris' plane - pit it with rust.

"WD" <wdmcc@wherevernet.com> wrote in message
news:10bmi3fa0t2hffa@corp.supernews.com...
> On Mon, 31 May 2004 07:53:58 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
> Applying WD-40 after each secession would that not damage the tires and
also
> wood chips or dust will ahere to the blade causing more problems?
> >
> >Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the
blade
> >backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry,
oak
> >or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.

Gg

"George"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 1:49 PM

I use olive oil straight, applied with the paper towel. Hell of a lot
cheaper than aerosol. Minor gain in cutting ability on wet wood, but resin
doesn't stick as readily.

<nospambob@vcoms.net> wrote in message
news:ek2mb0l1cn2hjo781bbmnunuqi6i2j783u@4ax.com...
> Have read suggestions to use Pam as lubricant on blades.
>
> On Mon, 31 May 2004 07:53:58 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
> >Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the
blade
> >backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry,
oak
> >or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.
>

EP

"Edwin Pawlowski"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

30/05/2004 11:41 AM


"Bruce Barnett" <spamhater95+U040530062538@grymoire.com> wrote in message
> I bought 2 Timberwolf blades.
> One of them was 3/4" - which I bought for resawing.
> I figured the wider the blade, the straighter the resawing.
> (Newer owned a bandsaw before).
>
> I haven't opened the package yet, so I can return it.
> Anyhow - I was wondering if I should return it for a 1/2" or 5/8" blade
instead.
>
> The "Duginkse Bench Guide" says the maximum practical size for
> non-commercial band saws is 1/2" because of the required tension for a
> 3/4" is too high.

In theory, the wider blade is better. I use the 1/2" because it was
recommended by Suffolk Machine for my Jet. Scott Philips also said the same
thing. I've not tried the 3/4" so I have never seen a comparison. If it
was in my hands, I'd probably try it.

As I said, in theory wider is better, but what is best is a properly aligned
and tensioned blade. If you can achieve that, it will work.
Ed

Aa

"AHilton"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

30/05/2004 7:28 AM

I'd suggest the 1/2" blade for what I think you're wanting to do. You're
not going to notice much of a difference in straightness of resawing on a
well tuned bandsaw and resawing fence setup. What you might notice is that
it takes quite a bit of umph for most commercial bandsaws to sling around a
3/4" blade at it's recommended tension and through 4" or more of wood for
good resawing. The 1/2" blade is the right combination for me and my
smaller (16" and under) bandsaws when resawing.

I do, however, use a 3/4" blade on these smaller bandsaws when I'm cutting
up rough log pieces that will fit. I feel that the 3/4" blade is tougher
and I can drive through the wood quicker/easier but I don't need a great
finish or worry about drift, etc. I can just hog through it.

Give the 3/4" blade a try and see how you like it. You might not notice
much of a difference. You bought it already so use it. It's just that after
doing this for awhile and comparing the two blades on these particular
bandsaws, I *prefer* to use the 1/2" for this purpose. It's not that the
3/4" won't work too.

- Andrew



> One more question....
>
> I bought 2 Timberwolf blades.
> One of them was 3/4" - which I bought for resawing.
> I figured the wider the blade, the straighter the resawing.
> (Newer owned a bandsaw before).
>
> I haven't opened the package yet, so I can return it.
> Anyhow - I was wondering if I should return it for a 1/2" or 5/8" blade
instead.
>
> The "Duginkse Bench Guide" says the maximum practical size for
> non-commercial band saws is 1/2" because of the required tension for a
> 3/4" is too high.
>
> The Jet specs say it's good for 3/4". And I have a low-tension blade.
>
> Does a 3/4" cut straighter than a 1/2"?
> Is a low-tension 3/4" pushing the limits of a 14" Bandsaw?
> Has anyone tried both?
>
> This one reference suggests the 3/4" will work fine.
>
>
http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=5jp92vsc42lqe10sl5l6rit2jmdtd0u81t%404a
x.com


NN

"NoOne N Particular"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

30/05/2004 2:25 AM

I had the same problem on my Craftsman Pro 14" bandsaw that is made by
Rexon. (This saw looks EXACTLY like the Jet 14" open stand model) After I
put the riser kit in the 105" blades were just a little too short. After
about an hour checking everything out I found out that the adjuster for the
top wheel camber (caster?) was hitting the inside of the upper housing which
prevented the blade tension assembly from going all the way down. A little
adjustment took care of it.

Wayne
>
> Are you positive the top wheel is bottomed out? On my Delta saw,
> sometimes the wheel will hang up and not completely slide to the bottom
> of the adjustment. Make absolutely certain there is slack in the tension
> adjustment screw and then give the wheel hub a couple whacks with a wood
> mallet to make sure the wheel is at the bottom of it's vertical movement.
>
> On my saw, that 1/8" wouldn't make enough difference to make a blade not
> fit.

TM

"Tony Manella"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

01/06/2004 10:38 AM

Lee Valley's blades are Viking brand and are NOT made by Timberwolf. I
bought a viking, which broke the first time I used it. Being under the
impression I had a Timberwolf I called Suffolk. I got quite a rude response
from the customer service there who told me to call that (*&$#) Canadian
company. I won't buy a Timberwolf due to this ignoramus. The Viking are a
good blade though and you always have the great customer service of Lee
Valley (who exchanged blades for me without question) behind them.

Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners
http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com/


"WD" <wdmcc@wherevernet.com> wrote in message
news:10bnpe87cdtmf9b@corp.supernews.com...
> On Mon, 31 May 2004 15:38:23 -0700, Owen Lowe <onlnlowe@easystreet.com>
wrote:
>
> Lee Valley catalog identify their Viking bandsaw blade as Timber Wolf, can
you
> confirm it from Suffolk Machinery?
>
> I screw up a NEW Timberwolf 1/2" blade by cutting a radius less than 4"
dia.,
> now thinking of replacing it from Lee Valley?
>
> >I get my blades directly from Timberwolf (Suffolk Machinery). I follow
> >Timberwolf's recommendations when cutting green wood for turning blanks
> >by using a 3/8" 3 tooth with a mildly wide set to the teeth to keep the
> >wet saw dust from binding the blade as it heats, steams and swells
> >inside the kerf. It's the AS series and costs about $18.
> >
> >When using a 1/2" blade, the min. diameter you could cut would be about
> >5". A 3/8" blade would turn a 2.5" circle.
>


BB

Bruce Barnett

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

30/05/2004 11:07 AM

Bruce Barnett <spamhater95+U040529161537@grymoire.com> writes:

> I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw.

Thanks, Gang. Dumb error, as it turned out.
(Although the manual did not mention this is a possible/required adjustment).

At the bottom on the tension knob bolt is a nut. It was 2 inches from
the end of the bolt. I had to loosen the nut, which caused the
entire wheel to lower one inch.

Before I did that, the minimum blade length before tensioning would
have been 105 1/4 inches. I was thinking unkind things.

I wonder if some guy at Jet was chuckling at himself and was purposely
setting the "default" length to be "maximum aggravation." I have no
proof of this, but I also had a threadless "nut that could not be threaded."
(grin)

Anyhow - today I get to turn on the motor for the first time!

One more question....

I bought 2 Timberwolf blades.
One of them was 3/4" - which I bought for resawing.
I figured the wider the blade, the straighter the resawing.
(Newer owned a bandsaw before).

I haven't opened the package yet, so I can return it.
Anyhow - I was wondering if I should return it for a 1/2" or 5/8" blade instead.

The "Duginkse Bench Guide" says the maximum practical size for
non-commercial band saws is 1/2" because of the required tension for a
3/4" is too high.

The Jet specs say it's good for 3/4". And I have a low-tension blade.

Does a 3/4" cut straighter than a 1/2"?
Is a low-tension 3/4" pushing the limits of a 14" Bandsaw?
Has anyone tried both?

This one reference suggests the 3/4" will work fine.

http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=5jp92vsc42lqe10sl5l6rit2jmdtd0u81t%404ax.com


--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

nn

"nospambob@vcoms.net"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 7:04 AM

Have read suggestions to use Pam as lubricant on blades.

On Mon, 31 May 2004 07:53:58 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:

>Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the blade
>backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry, oak
>or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.

TS

"Tom Storey"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

30/05/2004 6:12 AM

I had the same problem with my saw. I found that altough I had loosened the
tension spring, the upper assembly had hung up. I had to tap it with a
rubber mallet to force it down.

--
Remove the 'p' from 'shaw' to e-mail me.
"Bruce Barnett" <spamhater95+U040529161537@grymoire.com> wrote in message
news:c9arfa$4ka$0@208.20.133.66...
>
> I just assembled a Jet 14" (Deluxe) Bandsaw with a Riser block.
> I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw. I loosened/lowered the
blades,
> and tried the one that came with the kit, along with a Timberwolf blade.
> The saw wheels are aligned properly. The blade ALMOST fits on the wheels.
>
> I was unable to find any adjustment besides the blade tension knob.
> Am I missing something?
>
> I measured the riser block, and it's 6 1/16" high. That adds an 1/8"
> of an inch extra length necessary to the blade. Is this the problem?
>
> I'll call Jet Tuesday, but I was wondering if anyone have some
suggestions.
>
> --
> Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
> $500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
>

SB

Sawdust Bytes

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

30/05/2004 4:11 PM

The Suffolk blades are "low tension" blades and have never caused any
trouble with my Jet with riser blocks. I do try to remember to detension
the blade after using it. I use the 3/4" for resawing and have other
widths for other purposes.

The low tension blades take a little getting used to. You tighten them,
loosen them until they start to flutter, and then retighten them just a
little.

Slowly I turned...
Randy



Bruce Barnett wrote:
> Bruce Barnett <spamhater95+U040529161537@grymoire.com> writes:
>
>
>>I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw.
>
>
> Thanks, Gang. Dumb error, as it turned out.
> (Although the manual did not mention this is a possible/required adjustment).
>
> At the bottom on the tension knob bolt is a nut. It was 2 inches from
> the end of the bolt. I had to loosen the nut, which caused the
> entire wheel to lower one inch.
>
> Before I did that, the minimum blade length before tensioning would
> have been 105 1/4 inches. I was thinking unkind things.
>
> I wonder if some guy at Jet was chuckling at himself and was purposely
> setting the "default" length to be "maximum aggravation." I have no
> proof of this, but I also had a threadless "nut that could not be threaded."
> (grin)
>
> Anyhow - today I get to turn on the motor for the first time!
>
> One more question....
>
> I bought 2 Timberwolf blades.
> One of them was 3/4" - which I bought for resawing.
> I figured the wider the blade, the straighter the resawing.
> (Newer owned a bandsaw before).
>
> I haven't opened the package yet, so I can return it.
> Anyhow - I was wondering if I should return it for a 1/2" or 5/8" blade instead.
>
> The "Duginkse Bench Guide" says the maximum practical size for
> non-commercial band saws is 1/2" because of the required tension for a
> 3/4" is too high.
>
> The Jet specs say it's good for 3/4". And I have a low-tension blade.
>
> Does a 3/4" cut straighter than a 1/2"?
> Is a low-tension 3/4" pushing the limits of a 14" Bandsaw?
> Has anyone tried both?
>
> This one reference suggests the 3/4" will work fine.
>
> http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=5jp92vsc42lqe10sl5l6rit2jmdtd0u81t%404ax.com
>
>

OL

Owen Lowe

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 11:12 PM

In article <10bnpe87cdtmf9b@corp.supernews.com>,
WD <wdmcc@wherevernet.com> wrote:

> Lee Valley catalog identify their Viking bandsaw blade as Timber Wolf, can you
> confirm it from Suffolk Machinery?

I don't know. You might try a google search of the newsgroup to see
what's been said about the Viking blades.

> I screw up a NEW Timberwolf 1/2" blade by cutting a radius less than 4" dia.,
> now thinking of replacing it from Lee Valley?

How did you screw up a blade by attempting a too tight curve? The only
thing I've run into when that happens is I can't keep the blade tight
enough to the line, so end up making faceted cuts.

OL

Owen Lowe

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

29/05/2004 1:40 PM

In article <c9arfa$4ka$0@208.20.133.66>,
Bruce Barnett <spamhater95+U040529161537@grymoire.com> wrote:

> I just assembled a Jet 14" (Deluxe) Bandsaw with a Riser block.
> I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw. I loosened/lowered the
> blades,
> and tried the one that came with the kit, along with a Timberwolf blade.
> The saw wheels are aligned properly. The blade ALMOST fits on the wheels.
>
> I was unable to find any adjustment besides the blade tension knob.
> Am I missing something?
>
> I measured the riser block, and it's 6 1/16" high. That adds an 1/8"
> of an inch extra length necessary to the blade. Is this the problem?
>
> I'll call Jet Tuesday, but I was wondering if anyone have some suggestions.

Are you positive the top wheel is bottomed out? On my Delta saw,
sometimes the wheel will hang up and not completely slide to the bottom
of the adjustment. Make absolutely certain there is slack in the tension
adjustment screw and then give the wheel hub a couple whacks with a wood
mallet to make sure the wheel is at the bottom of it's vertical movement.

On my saw, that 1/8" wouldn't make enough difference to make a blade not
fit.

OL

Owen Lowe

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

31/05/2004 3:38 PM

In article <10bl6nknvc4uk40@corp.supernews.com>,
"Bruce Ferguson" <fergusrb@dslextreme.com> wrote:

> I will throw in another question. I know the thread was about resawing,
> but what about green wood? Cutting bowl blanks ect. My saw is a 14" delta
> with riser blocks. 1/2 inch blade too wide for bowl blanks?? I have a Jet
> 1236 so 12" would be max I guess.

I get my blades directly from Timberwolf (Suffolk Machinery). I follow
Timberwolf's recommendations when cutting green wood for turning blanks
by using a 3/8" 3 tooth with a mildly wide set to the teeth to keep the
wet saw dust from binding the blade as it heats, steams and swells
inside the kerf. It's the AS series and costs about $18.

When using a 1/2" blade, the min. diameter you could cut would be about
5". A 3/8" blade would turn a 2.5" circle.

VB

"Vic Baron"

in reply to Bruce Barnett on 29/05/2004 8:23 PM

30/05/2004 3:56 AM

Had same problem with the Grizzly G0555. The tension screw gets sticky and
it took a little tap with a piece of wood and it came loose. Check yours.

Vic
"Bruce Barnett" <spamhater95+U040529161537@grymoire.com> wrote in message
news:c9arfa$4ka$0@208.20.133.66...
>
> I just assembled a Jet 14" (Deluxe) Bandsaw with a Riser block.
> I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw. I loosened/lowered the
blades,
> and tried the one that came with the kit, along with a Timberwolf blade.
> The saw wheels are aligned properly. The blade ALMOST fits on the wheels.
>
> I was unable to find any adjustment besides the blade tension knob.
> Am I missing something?
>
> I measured the riser block, and it's 6 1/16" high. That adds an 1/8"
> of an inch extra length necessary to the blade. Is this the problem?
>
> I'll call Jet Tuesday, but I was wondering if anyone have some
suggestions.
>
> --
> Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
> $500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
>


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