I've owned this SEARS RAS for close to thirty years and had it mounted
on the "factory" stand for a while, then on a shop built stand that
allowed me to wheel it about the shop by stepping on a pedal. Now, in
a new location, after selling off the wheeled stand, I've decided to
mount it into a 10-foot long home built "work table." The table is
constructed of 2-2x8x10 foot boards (front and back) with 2-2x6x29
inch boards (left and right) all mounted onto 6-4x4x36-inch "legs"
which were notched (dadoed?) to accept the boards, above, and again to
hold some 1x2 boards that support a bottom "shelf"of 7/16 OSB at the
perimeter a foot or so off the floor.
My first thought was to mount it and my 12" "chop saw" into the table
so that their "platforms" would be in the same plane and the cutting
guides would line up as well. The idea was that I could use the same
table for long stock with either tool.
"A woman falls into the path of an oncoming train at eleven" OT - but
the quote was from a TV News station that interrupted Jay Leno as I
was writing the previous paragraph. If Jay heard it, he didn't say.
First issue was getting the height adjustment handle extended through
the front (2x8) of the bench. I managed this with a bit of half-inch
steel rod and a half-inch i.d. steel sleeve drilled and pinned to
allow me to put it back the way it was should the need arise or the
project fail ;)
I installed a "shelf" of 2-by material to support the sheet metal
channel base flush with the to of the table framing - and did the same
to support the Craftsman 12" "chop saw" with 4 bolts underneath
through fixed nuts that were designed to allow me to "level" the base
should the need arise.
The "factory" setup and table consist of three sections. A large
"table" piece about 24 by 36 inches, a 1-inch "fence" as wide as the
"table" and another 36-inch section behind the fence that is held in
place with two thumb screws mounted to the metal base at the rear of
the saw.
My idea was to have a solid bench top 3/4-inch thick across the entire
bench and another layer of the same thickness in sections so that I
could replace the section under the RAS blade from time to time as
needed.
The fence has me stumped at the moment. The thumb-screw bolts that
presently hold the fence in place will have to go once the two
thicknesses of table top are applied. And the fence (I presume) should
be "replaceable" - somehow.
I recall seeing Norm using a long table with (I thought) a RAS center-
mounted. But I can't build it too well from vague memories and thought
to check in here to see if anyone can offer a good suggestion or point
me to a (public domain, please) plan for something similar.
The next issue will be incorporating the Chop Saw into the bench. I
can remove its "factory fence" easily enough, but integrating it with
whatever "fence" that suits the RAS looks to prove "problematic."
I may try removing the Chop Saw, but leaving a "hole" to fit it into -
replacing a section of the table with the saw and the saw with the
section of table as that tool is required.
If a picture of what I have so far would help, I can post them to my
website. (I don't understand how to add images here).
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 20:29:01 -0800 (PST), Hoosierpopi
<[email protected]> wrote:
>The next issue will be incorporating the Chop Saw into the bench. I
>can remove its "factory fence" easily enough, but integrating it with
>whatever "fence" that suits the RAS looks to prove "problematic."
Here are some pictures of how I built my miter saw and RAS table. The
table I built ended up being about 11 feet long plus the length of the
RAS table. The only way it will get out of the basement is in pieces.
http://s692.photobucket.com/albums/vv290/dobripw/Miter%20Saw/
On Nov 10, 10:40=A0am, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
you could make some inserts as fill-ins
Did that. Tight to the RAS elevating post all around. Not as tight to
the rear of the Miter Saw, but close enough. Thinking of incorporating
your dust collection idea when I add the sacrificial top surface as
the part behind the saws will not need replacement and can be used to
affix a flexible trough to collect the errant dust for vacuuming out
from time to time as I have no dust collector in place and no plans
save one that might incorporate one of my shop vacs.
"Nonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Photos were located and posted to the binary group. Sorry that
the shop was so messy.
--
Nonny
You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.
Hoosierpopi wrote:
> I've owned this SEARS RAS for close to thirty years and had it mounted
> on the "factory" stand for a while, then on a shop built stand that
> allowed me to wheel it about the shop by stepping on a pedal. Now, in
> a new location, after selling off the wheeled stand, I've decided to
> mount it into a 10-foot long home built "work table." The table is
> constructed of 2-2x8x10 foot boards (front and back) with 2-2x6x29
> inch boards (left and right) all mounted onto 6-4x4x36-inch "legs"
> which were notched (dadoed?) to accept the boards, above, and again to
> hold some 1x2 boards that support a bottom "shelf"of 7/16 OSB at the
> perimeter a foot or so off the floor.
>
> My first thought was to mount it and my 12" "chop saw" into the table
> so that their "platforms" would be in the same plane and the cutting
> guides would line up as well. The idea was that I could use the same
> table for long stock with either tool.
>
> "A woman falls into the path of an oncoming train at eleven" OT - but
> the quote was from a TV News station that interrupted Jay Leno as I
> was writing the previous paragraph. If Jay heard it, he didn't say.
>
> First issue was getting the height adjustment handle extended through
> the front (2x8) of the bench. I managed this with a bit of half-inch
> steel rod and a half-inch i.d. steel sleeve drilled and pinned to
> allow me to put it back the way it was should the need arise or the
> project fail ;)
>
> I installed a "shelf" of 2-by material to support the sheet metal
> channel base flush with the to of the table framing - and did the same
> to support the Craftsman 12" "chop saw" with 4 bolts underneath
> through fixed nuts that were designed to allow me to "level" the base
> should the need arise.
>
> The "factory" setup and table consist of three sections. A large
> "table" piece about 24 by 36 inches, a 1-inch "fence" as wide as the
> "table" and another 36-inch section behind the fence that is held in
> place with two thumb screws mounted to the metal base at the rear of
> the saw.
>
> My idea was to have a solid bench top 3/4-inch thick across the entire
> bench and another layer of the same thickness in sections so that I
> could replace the section under the RAS blade from time to time as
> needed.
>
> The fence has me stumped at the moment. The thumb-screw bolts that
> presently hold the fence in place will have to go once the two
> thicknesses of table top are applied. And the fence (I presume) should
> be "replaceable" - somehow.
>
> I recall seeing Norm using a long table with (I thought) a RAS center-
> mounted. But I can't build it too well from vague memories and thought
> to check in here to see if anyone can offer a good suggestion or point
> me to a (public domain, please) plan for something similar.
>
> The next issue will be incorporating the Chop Saw into the bench. I
> can remove its "factory fence" easily enough, but integrating it with
> whatever "fence" that suits the RAS looks to prove "problematic."
>
> I may try removing the Chop Saw, but leaving a "hole" to fit it into -
> replacing a section of the table with the saw and the saw with the
> section of table as that tool is required.
>
> If a picture of what I have so far would help, I can post them to my
> website. (I don't understand how to add images here).
>
>
>
I did something like that. But I didn't set it down into the work
bench. I built the work bench with a piece missing where the RAS
goes, then built a lower platform for the RAS to be mounted on. I
carefully set the lower platform down low enough so that the RAS
table was below the work bench top. Then I adjusted it by putting
washers under the RAS mounts. That way I can easily (well, fairly
easily) adjust the RAS so that the table is level with the bench top.
To get really fine adjustments you will need to find some thin metal
stock and cut shims out of it. That isn't a big problem. Just drill
a hole the right size through it and cut it out square with some tin
snips.
Bill
OK, question remains, using a solid top with a sacrificial 1/4 inch
hardboard surface, how to install a fence that lines up with both the
RAS and CHOP SAW (installed in a "shelf" built so as to align the CHOP
SAW surface with the top of the Masonite.
I would like a fence that allows adding an aluminum extrusion affair
to hang stops and such from. If anyone can provide a URL to an image
or two (of how others have done it) I would be appreciative.
I am on DIAL-UP and searches can take me hours loading pages that
"sound" great but dissapoint after they fully load!
On Nov 11, 4:53=A0pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
I personally wouldn't want the chop saw and theRASin line as one of
See the link Morris just posted on his use of t-track. =A0
I don't have anything permanent; I rarely really need a longer one
for it. =A0
I just use a piece of scrap 3" angle scavenged from the local metal
supplier
I, too, visit an Aluminum Guy to buy scrap by the pound and found the
Architectural Angle great for shop jigs (as opposed to the Structural
stuff).
I did visit Morris' page and saw the images referenced. But that idea
is one to be incorporated after I figure out the fencing issues.
My RAS is but an extra piece of equipment I can't see selling for what
it might bring on a good day and, thus, putting it to use - if not
optimally as your approach did - offers significant benefits relative
to the Yard Sale alternative.
Incorporating the Miter Saw (on a lowered shelf to the right of the
RAS) makes good use of the longer table that I (finally) have room for
as it does the old "double duty" while not restricting the Mitre Saw
to the table (it shall be "removable" as needed outside the shop on a
portable stand, perhaps).
In this exploration I did come across an idea for a Miter Sled Jig to
use with the RAS which would allow 45 degree cuts w/o moving the arm
and would allow for a fixed (not sacrificial) fence approach.
Your response gave me the idea of a two-part "fence" approach with the
fixed fence as far back as possible - aligned with the Miter Saw's
fence - and an additional "fence" that would sit against and in front
of the fixed fence for most cuts.
Thanks for the feedback!
On Nov 10, 10:40=A0am, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
On mine, I use a sacrificial piece of 1/4" ply as the top surface.
I have some 1/4-inch Masonite for the sacrificial layer you suggested
and I, too, will be using small screws "strategically-placed" - as are
those fixing the first two layers to the bench frame.
I started with 3/4" melamine coated particle board (I had some
salvaged stuff laying about) and added a Ping Pong Table top (cut down
to size) acquired from the local Habitat Re-Store ($4.00 for 5 x 9'
aged plywood top plus a neat leg/apron support of the same material).
I carefully measured the screw placement so as to be certain I didn't
attempt to screw a succeeding layer over a screw holding the one
below.
So, I should have a most sturdy bench top when done.
Which leaves the decision of how to add a fence.
Look at what Norm did a few years back....
and I built one...
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-773459.html
I don't have a RAS but the table can be configured for
a very nice setup.
http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0201
Hoosierpopi wrote:
> I've owned this SEARS RAS for close to thirty years a
I'm planning on doing the same thing.
I'll pay attention to this thread for ideas.... and post any if I get 'em.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Hoosierpopi wrote:
> The "factory" setup and table consist of three sections. A large
> "table" piece about 24 by 36 inches, a 1-inch "fence" as wide as the
> "table" and another 36-inch section behind the fence that is held in
> place with two thumb screws mounted to the metal base at the rear of
> the saw.
>
> My idea was to have a solid bench top 3/4-inch thick across the entire
> bench and another layer of the same thickness in sections so that I
> could replace the section under the RAS blade from time to time as
> needed.
>
> The fence has me stumped at the moment. The thumb-screw bolts that
> presently hold the fence in place will have to go once the two
> thicknesses of table top are applied. And the fence (I presume) should
> be "replaceable" - somehow.
>
> I recall seeing Norm using a long table with (I thought) a RAS center-
> mounted. But I can't build it too well from vague memories and thought
> to check in here to see if anyone can offer a good suggestion or point
> me to a (public domain, please) plan for something similar.
Well, it's not exactly a "plan" but you're welcome to look over what I
did with my RAS. None of it is particularly elegant, but it's worked
fairly well for me.
Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/RadialArmSaw/
I screwed a piece of 1/8 x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 aluminum angle flush with the
edges where the three table sections join - and the sections are held
together by 1/4-20 stainless button head cap screws and stainless Nyloc
nuts through the facing angles. Three four foot sections give me a 12'
table.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
BillGill wrote:
...
> I did something like that. But I didn't set it down into the work
> bench. I built the work bench with a piece missing where the RAS
> goes, then built a lower platform for the RAS to be mounted on. I
> carefully set the lower platform down low enough so that the RAS
> table was below the work bench top. Then I adjusted it by putting
> washers under the RAS mounts. That way I can easily (well, fairly
> easily) adjust the RAS so that the table is level with the bench top.
>
> To get really fine adjustments you will need to find some thin metal
> stock and cut shims out of it. That isn't a big problem. Just drill
> a hole the right size through it and cut it out square with some tin
> snips.
I did very similar to this except mounted the RAS by using 3/8" angle
supported by the bench just below the required mounting height then used
the mounting bolts thru the angle as the height adjustment as well by
using a nut above the angle as well as below--just turn the nut as need
to adjust height at all four corners, then lock 'em down...no shims
needed. :)
--
Hoosierpopi wrote:
...
> My idea was to have a solid bench top 3/4-inch thick across the entire
> bench and another layer of the same thickness in sections so that I
> could replace the section under the RAS blade from time to time as
> needed.
>
> The fence has me stumped at the moment. The thumb-screw bolts that
> presently hold the fence in place will have to go once the two
> thicknesses of table top are applied. And the fence (I presume) should
> be "replaceable" - somehow.
...
I'd stick w/ the original idea of keeping the RAS table sections
separate for replacement--they _WILL_ get cut up and need it from time
to time. If you want the top layer fine; just don't make it solid into
the whole bench.
On mine, I didn't make the whole surface double, I simply mounted the
RAS a little lower and use a sacrificial piece of 1/4" ply as the top
surface. It's held in place by some strategically-placed #4 (brass,
just in case) flat-head counter-sunk screws so it's easily replaced when
time comes.
As for the fence, just leave the cutout where the thumb screws
are--you'll want to be able to move the fence and replace and
occasionally readjust it as well. I suppose you could make some inserts
as fill-ins to help keep sawdust from falling thru so any dust
collection has a better chance; I don't bother as there's a sloping tin
collector to the rear (similar idea to another poster's suggestion) that
goes to the dust collector area although there's no fixed connection.
--
Steve Turner wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> I'm planning on doing the same thing.
>> I'll pay attention to this thread for ideas.... and post any if I get
>> 'em.
>
> I thought you got rid of the RAS?
>
It's a daily battle. Every time I want to free up some room in the shop,
I'm tempted to craigslist it.... but then I find myself making several
cuts on it every day.
That's why I'm considering incorporating it into a wall bench. There's a
lot of room underneath the thing that is unused, because I have wheels
on it. Right now, I usually have the shop vac underneath. If it's in the
bench, I can use it for permanent storage, *plus,* I literally save
about a foot in floor space by getting rid of the angled legs that push
it out so far from the wall.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Hoosierpopi wrote:
> OK, question remains, using a solid top with a sacrificial 1/4 inch
> hardboard surface, how to install a fence that lines up with both the
> RAS and CHOP SAW (installed in a "shelf" built so as to align the CHOP
> SAW surface with the top of the Masonite.
>
> I would like a fence that allows adding an aluminum extrusion affair
> to hang stops and such from. If anyone can provide a URL to an image
> or two (of how others have done it) I would be appreciative.
>
> I am on DIAL-UP and searches can take me hours loading pages that
> "sound" great but dissapoint after they fully load!
I personally wouldn't want the chop saw and the RAS in line as one of
the things I specifically made the long table for is ripping and wide
stock occasionally (even w/ the 14" RAS) means putting the fence in the
rearward position (the reason I suggested leaving access to the thumb
screw locations). If the chop/miter saw were that far back it would be
inconvenient most of the time. But, if that's something you'll never do
or you're ok w/ moving it when the time comes, ok; just so you've
thought it thru.
See the link Morris just posted on his use of t-track. Not a bad
thought; typical Morris...very neat! :)
I don't have anything permanent; w/ the size of the RAS fence I rarely
really need a longer one for it. On the miter saw table, I just use a
piece of scrap 3" angle scavenged from the local metal supplier one time
when I saw a couple ends in the offcuts pile one day while there for
something totally different. They're just mounted in a set of slots in
the surface that allow them to be moved at will and locked. If I need
end locks I generally just use a clamped block or tack a block directly
into the surface at the position for the current job; I don't do enough
repetitive production work to need multiple ones at a time set or go
back to repeat something days/weeks/months later; if I'm cutting the
rails/stiles/muntins/whatever for a set of doors/windows/whatever, I'll
do 'em and that particular task is likely to never come back again so
there's no need for anything except the simple...
ymmv, of course...
--
dpb wrote:
> BillGill wrote:
> ...
>> I did something like that. But I didn't set it down into the work
>> bench. I built the work bench with a piece missing where the RAS
>> goes, then built a lower platform for the RAS to be mounted on. I
>> carefully set the lower platform down low enough so that the RAS
>> table was below the work bench top. Then I adjusted it by putting
>> washers under the RAS mounts. That way I can easily (well, fairly
>> easily) adjust the RAS so that the table is level with the bench top.
>>
>> To get really fine adjustments you will need to find some thin metal
>> stock and cut shims out of it. That isn't a big problem. Just drill
>> a hole the right size through it and cut it out square with some tin
>> snips.
>
> I did very similar to this except mounted the RAS by using 3/8" angle
> supported by the bench just below the required mounting height then used
> the mounting bolts thru the angle as the height adjustment as well by
> using a nut above the angle as well as below--just turn the nut as need
> to adjust height at all four corners, then lock 'em down...no shims
> needed. :)
>
> --
Yep, I considered that, then got lazy and went with the shims.
Bill
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0d981e9f-df2e-429a-adaf-fce58f9d8b9f@h34g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
> I've owned this SEARS RAS for close to thirty years and had it
> mounted
> on the "factory" stand for a while, then on a shop built stand
> that
> allowed me to wheel it about the shop by stepping on a pedal.
> Now, in
> a new location, after selling off the wheeled stand, I've
> decided to
> mount it into a 10-foot long home built "work table." The table
> is
> constructed of 2-2x8x10 foot boards (front and back) with
> 2-2x6x29
> inch boards (left and right) all mounted onto 6-4x4x36-inch
> "legs"
> which were notched (dadoed?) to accept the boards, above, and
> again to
> hold some 1x2 boards that support a bottom "shelf"of 7/16 OSB
> at the
> perimeter a foot or so off the floor.
>
> My first thought was to mount it and my 12" "chop saw" into the
> table
> so that their "platforms" would be in the same plane and the
> cutting
> guides would line up as well. The idea was that I could use the
> same
> table for long stock with either tool.
>
> "A woman falls into the path of an oncoming train at eleven"
> OT - but
> the quote was from a TV News station that interrupted Jay Leno
> as I
> was writing the previous paragraph. If Jay heard it, he didn't
> say.
>
> First issue was getting the height adjustment handle extended
> through
> the front (2x8) of the bench. I managed this with a bit of
> half-inch
> steel rod and a half-inch i.d. steel sleeve drilled and pinned
> to
> allow me to put it back the way it was should the need arise or
> the
> project fail ;)
>
> I installed a "shelf" of 2-by material to support the sheet
> metal
> channel base flush with the to of the table framing - and did
> the same
> to support the Craftsman 12" "chop saw" with 4 bolts underneath
> through fixed nuts that were designed to allow me to "level" the
> base
> should the need arise.
>
> The "factory" setup and table consist of three sections. A large
> "table" piece about 24 by 36 inches, a 1-inch "fence" as wide as
> the
> "table" and another 36-inch section behind the fence that is
> held in
> place with two thumb screws mounted to the metal base at the
> rear of
> the saw.
>
> My idea was to have a solid bench top 3/4-inch thick across the
> entire
> bench and another layer of the same thickness in sections so
> that I
> could replace the section under the RAS blade from time to time
> as
> needed.
>
> The fence has me stumped at the moment. The thumb-screw bolts
> that
> presently hold the fence in place will have to go once the two
> thicknesses of table top are applied. And the fence (I presume)
> should
> be "replaceable" - somehow.
>
> I recall seeing Norm using a long table with (I thought) a RAS
> center-
> mounted. But I can't build it too well from vague memories and
> thought
> to check in here to see if anyone can offer a good suggestion or
> point
> me to a (public domain, please) plan for something similar.
>
> The next issue will be incorporating the Chop Saw into the
> bench. I
> can remove its "factory fence" easily enough, but integrating it
> with
> whatever "fence" that suits the RAS looks to prove
> "problematic."
>
> I may try removing the Chop Saw, but leaving a "hole" to fit it
> into -
> replacing a section of the table with the saw and the saw with
> the
> section of table as that tool is required.
>
> If a picture of what I have so far would help, I can post them
> to my
> website. (I don't understand how to add images here).
My own shop was built with a similar idea in mind. The RAS was
set with the blade in the center of a long counter, plus
unsupported overhangs at each end. I could cut to the center of a
24' length. To the right was a depressed area where my chop saw
sat. It was not firmly mounted, but on runners that permitted it
to moved or slid back out of the way. To the left of the RAS sat
my undermounted router.
Something I did differently was to mount the entire counter out 6"
from the wall, with the gap between counter top and wall filled in
with a "V"-shaped collector. At the center of the "V" was the 6"
opening from the dust collector, complete with a blast gate. The
system worked out very well for me. I'll try to find and post a
photo in the binaries group.
--
Nonny
You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.