Hello all, need to know, can anyone name for me the best site at which to
purchase really heavy duty knock-down hardware?
I will need to easily disassemble my (future) woodworking bench sometimes,
to make space, or when moving to a new residents and so forth, it won't
be a standard or classic design, all vises on the front mounted with nuts and
bolts, easy to take apart. 62"x24"x34" to 36" high (I am 6'5" tall)...
Top needs to be removeable from the trestle, and the trestle frames separable
into pieces, any good sites? Or should I just go with N's&B's all the way?
Alex
> For a quick knock down bench, you might consider cast iron legs and a simple
> maple surface. With the addition of a stretcher (shown in the illustration)
> it's easily disassembled. Lee Valley Tools has legs of the type I'm talking
> about.
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=40575&category=1,41637,46343&ccurrency=1&SID=
> If you want to save money and roll your own design, then Lee Valley also
> sells bench bolts which make for quick assembly and disassembly.
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=31147&category=1,41637
>
>
Thanks much, have seen all that, but I am much-not the wealthy man by any means (maybe
distantly, just a touch... heh heh...). Maybe I should copy the idea and buy barrel nuts from
http://www.adjustableclamp.com/ they have them in all sizes. Then some higher grade bolts.
These nuts are replacement parts for their handscrew clamps. But, my ideas of construction
and complete design have not come together fully, for my needs. Also I am very inexperienced.
Alex
On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 02:29:28 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Hello all, need to know, can anyone name for me the best site at which to
>purchase really heavy duty knock-down hardware?
>
>I will need to easily disassemble my (future) woodworking bench sometimes,
>to make space, or when moving to a new residents and so forth, it won't
>be a standard or classic design, all vises on the front mounted with nuts and
>bolts, easy to take apart. 62"x24"x34" to 36" high (I am 6'5" tall)...
>
>Top needs to be removeable from the trestle, and the trestle frames separable
>into pieces, any good sites? Or should I just go with N's&B's all the way?
>
>Alex
>
Take a look at my workbench on <mklange.cnc.net>: I used through mortise &
tenons along with M&T's on the tops to hold the bench together. The
drawers underneath have stopped any racking. The bench itself was
assembled with no metal.
> You don't need barrel nuts. Take a look at figures F and G on this page:
> http://tinyurl.com/3sb7h
>
>
Umm... I think in a perfect circle goes a perfect barrel nut dude... I wouldn't stick a
regular nut in that hole with it's edges going against the wood so it eventually cracks.
No point in doing the mortising work to square the hole unless it's to save money
by buying regular nuts either. But thanks much for the interjection. Just need to build
on ideas here... it gave this thinking.
Alex
AAvK wrote:
> Hello all, need to know, can anyone name for me the best site at which to
> purchase really heavy duty knock-down hardware?
>
> I will need to easily disassemble my (future) woodworking bench sometimes,
> to make space, or when moving to a new residents and so forth, it won't
> be a standard or classic design, all vises on the front mounted with nuts and
> bolts, easy to take apart. 62"x24"x34" to 36" high (I am 6'5" tall)...
>
> Top needs to be removeable from the trestle, and the trestle frames separable
> into pieces, any good sites? Or should I just go with N's&B's all the way?
>
> Alex
Threaded rod. Route a channel in the stretchers to hide it.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
AAvK wrote:
> > Threaded rod. Route a channel in the stretchers to hide it.
> >
> >
> I see... now, what exactly do those threads screw into? And, how do I drive the
> rod, on it's own, into those threads? And, how does that idea serve the idea of
> easy knock-down joinery?
>
> Alex
The threaded rods run the full length of the stretcher plus enough to extend
through the trestle. As I said a channel can be routed in the bottom of the
stretchers to hide the rod or the stretchers can be laminated from two boards with
a channel in the center. A nut and washer on each end secure the assembly. To
knock down the bench remove the nuts.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Daniel H wrote:
> I'm *still* mulling over a design for a knockdown bench, and I've
> settled trestles with stretchers attached via the LV bench bolts. All
> spruce to start with. The only remaining problem... attaching the top.
>
> I'd like to be able to attach and detach the top multiple times, and a
> lag bolt seems like it will chew up the wood it screws into after a few
> mating cycles. I'd like something like 1/4-20 quick-connect hardware
> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?page=45375&category=3,41306
> but 1/4 is thin compared to the size of lag bolt I'd use for bolting the
> top. Is there some other larger size quick-connect (3/8 inch?) that is
> commonly available?
>
> Thanks!
>
> - Daniel
The weight of the top will keep it front floating up off
the base so you only need to keep it from moving
fore/aft and left/right. A big domed top dowel
and a hole will work just fine. If it's good enough
for Frank Klausz ...
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/BenchFinishing/CBbench33.html
Now I'm not good enough to drill four holes, one in the
center of each end of the base, and one on each end
of the underside of the top so I cheated.
charlie b
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<FLMbd.7004$bk1.3281@fed1read05>...
> Hello all, need to know, can anyone name for me the best site at which to
> purchase really heavy duty knock-down hardware?
>
> I will need to easily disassemble my (future) woodworking bench sometimes,
> to make space, or when moving to a new residents and so forth, it won't
> be a standard or classic design, all vises on the front mounted with nuts and
> bolts, easy to take apart. 62"x24"x34" to 36" high (I am 6'5" tall)...
>
> Top needs to be removeable from the trestle, and the trestle frames separable
> into pieces, any good sites? Or should I just go with N's&B's all the way?
>
> Alex
How about tusk mortise and tenon for the base, with the top bolted to
the base? that's how I did my bench:
http://home.earthlink.net/~nateperkins1/Woodworking/projects/workbench04.htm
Cheers,
Nate
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<ab_bd.7106$bk1.1367@fed1read05>...
> > How about tusk mortise and tenon for the base, with the top bolted to
> > the base? that's how I did my bench:
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~nateperkins1/Woodworking/projects/workbench04.htm
> >
> >
> I think Douglas Fir is too too soft for that, supremely the budget here. It can't go
> that far with a big classic "to do" for all the technical reasons of assembly based
> on both experience (de nada) and budget.
>
> I want to use a leg vise because it is simple and strong. I have a 7x4" classic
> woodworking vise but that won't hold a board in which to cut dovetails. So the
> idea is to buy another of the same only a 10" one, Asian or antique, with both
> mounted on the front. This way a full length wooden jaw of maple (or whatever
> hard wood) can be placed between the two vises, thusly allowing holding a wider
> board for dovetail cutting. Something like a twin screw.
>
> At a total of 62" side to side there is no room for the end vise like you have there,
> nor a shoulder vise (tail vise? it sticks out in order to clamp inwards to the bench)
> because of the work area to my left. Small space, my sharpening and fettling space
> is next to my computer monitor. I imagine a leg vise will do the same job as the
> description in parentheses above, only it can't be of a "straight board" design I
> think... maybe a compound angle for the jaw part, maybe a moving swivel jaw
> attached through the top of it towards the front of the bench top. Then there is the
> hinge down below to think about, might it be a sliding devise?
>
> I should really have said all this detail in the OP... and I must say, your bench is
> is entirely AWESOME, and it'll be a few years before I can do that myself.
>
> Alex
Hi Alex,
A really great book is Landis' "The Workbench Book" -- you can
probably get it from your local library or by interlibrary loan.
There are lots of options for the base as well as vises, etc in there.
Good luck with building your workbench. I am a newcomer too, and I
can tell you it's not that hard. Just roll your sleeves up and have
at it -- you can do it.
Cheers,
Nate
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:FLMbd.7004$bk1.3281@fed1read05...
>
> Hello all, need to know, can anyone name for me the best site at which to
> purchase really heavy duty knock-down hardware?
>
> I will need to easily disassemble my (future) woodworking bench sometimes,
> to make space, or when moving to a new residents and so forth, it won't
> be a standard or classic design, all vises on the front mounted with nuts
and
> bolts, easy to take apart. 62"x24"x34" to 36" high (I am 6'5" tall)...
For a quick knock down bench, you might consider cast iron legs and a simple
maple surface. With the addition of a stretcher (shown in the illustration)
it's easily disassembled. Lee Valley Tools has legs of the type I'm talking
about.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=40575&category=1,41637,46343&ccurrency=1&SID=
If you want to save money and roll your own design, then Lee Valley also
sells bench bolts which make for quick assembly and disassembly.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=31147&category=1,41637
> Hi Alex,
> A really great book is Landis' "The Workbench Book" -- you can
> probably get it from your local library or by interlibrary loan.
> There are lots of options for the base as well as vises, etc in there.
> Good luck with building your workbench. I am a newcomer too, and I
> can tell you it's not that hard. Just roll your sleeves up and have
> at it -- you can do it.
>
>
My ideas are that bad ay? Oh well. Sometimes we assume the wrong things,
even about people. And it's not your project, or your burden.
Anyone else is welcome to reply and help, would be much appreciated.
Alex
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2HQbd.7015$bk1.6150@fed1read05...
>
> > You don't need barrel nuts. Take a look at figures F and G on this
page:
> > http://tinyurl.com/3sb7h
> >
> >
> Umm... I think in a perfect circle goes a perfect barrel nut dude... I
wouldn't stick a
> regular nut in that hole with it's edges going against the wood so it
eventually cracks.
I don't see it cracking - you're mashing end grain over a small area. The
wood just compresses down. I've done it this way on other applications and
its held up just fine - provided you have a washer under the nut to prevent
torqueing the wood.
> No point in doing the mortising work to square the hole unless it's to
save money
> by buying regular nuts either.
Squaring out one side of the hole is quick. But I must admit I am highly
influenced by the price of bench bolts. I don't see paying $22.50 for barrel
nuts and bolts for a set of four (Lee Valley). That's a value judgement, I
admit - just wanted to offer alternatives to someone who might be watching
the cost. If I were building my ultimate bench, I would buy the barrel
nuts. If its Bob Key's budget bench of pine, I'll use the low cost
alternative.
No right or wrong here - thanks for the stimulation.
Bob
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0xObd.7006$bk1.4780@fed1read05...
> Thanks much, have seen all that, but I am much-not the wealthy man by any
means (maybe
> distantly, just a touch... heh heh...). Maybe I should copy the idea and
buy barrel nuts from
> http://www.adjustableclamp.com/ they have them in all sizes.
You don't need barrel nuts. Take a look at figures F and G on this page:
http://tinyurl.com/3sb7h
Bob
> How about tusk mortise and tenon for the base, with the top bolted to
> the base? that's how I did my bench:
> http://home.earthlink.net/~nateperkins1/Woodworking/projects/workbench04.htm
>
>
I think Douglas Fir is too too soft for that, supremely the budget here. It can't go
that far with a big classic "to do" for all the technical reasons of assembly based
on both experience (de nada) and budget.
I want to use a leg vise because it is simple and strong. I have a 7x4" classic
woodworking vise but that won't hold a board in which to cut dovetails. So the
idea is to buy another of the same only a 10" one, Asian or antique, with both
mounted on the front. This way a full length wooden jaw of maple (or whatever
hard wood) can be placed between the two vises, thusly allowing holding a wider
board for dovetail cutting. Something like a twin screw.
At a total of 62" side to side there is no room for the end vise like you have there,
nor a shoulder vise (tail vise? it sticks out in order to clamp inwards to the bench)
because of the work area to my left. Small space, my sharpening and fettling space
is next to my computer monitor. I imagine a leg vise will do the same job as the
description in parentheses above, only it can't be of a "straight board" design I
think... maybe a compound angle for the jaw part, maybe a moving swivel jaw
attached through the top of it towards the front of the bench top. Then there is the
hinge down below to think about, might it be a sliding devise?
I should really have said all this detail in the OP... and I must say, your bench is
is entirely AWESOME, and it'll be a few years before I can do that myself.
Alex
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ab_bd.7106$bk1.1367@fed1read05...
> At a total of 62" side to side there is no room for the end vise like you
have there,
> nor a shoulder vise (tail vise? it sticks out in order to clamp inwards to
the bench)
Veritas Wonder Dog is a poor man's substitute for the tail vice
functionality with bench dogs. It would do the trick where space is limited
as you described.
Bob
> The threaded rods run the full length of the stretcher plus enough to extend
> through the trestle. As I said a channel can be routed in the bottom of the
> stretchers to hide the rod or the stretchers can be laminated from two boards with
> a channel in the center. A nut and washer on each end secure the assembly. To
> knock down the bench remove the nuts.
That makes more sense from you, and very descriptive too I might add. I think the
other idea is better, no long threaded rods to juggle but I'm sure it would work well.
Alex
> If you want to save money and roll your own design, then Lee Valley also
> sells bench bolts which make for quick assembly and disassembly.
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=31147&category=1,41637
I'm *still* mulling over a design for a knockdown bench, and I've
settled trestles with stretchers attached via the LV bench bolts. All
spruce to start with. The only remaining problem... attaching the top.
I'd like to be able to attach and detach the top multiple times, and a
lag bolt seems like it will chew up the wood it screws into after a few
mating cycles. I'd like something like 1/4-20 quick-connect hardware
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?page=45375&category=3,41306
but 1/4 is thin compared to the size of lag bolt I'd use for bolting the
top. Is there some other larger size quick-connect (3/8 inch?) that is
commonly available?
Thanks!
- Daniel
On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 02:29:28 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Hello all, need to know, can anyone name for me the best site at which to
>purchase really heavy duty knock-down hardware?
>
>I will need to easily disassemble my (future) woodworking bench sometimes,
>to make space, or when moving to a new residents and so forth, it won't
>be a standard or classic design, all vises on the front mounted with nuts and
>bolts, easy to take apart. 62"x24"x34" to 36" high (I am 6'5" tall)...
>
>Top needs to be removeable from the trestle, and the trestle frames separable
>into pieces, any good sites? Or should I just go with N's&B's all the way?
>
>Alex
>
you can do it entirely with wood. oversize wedged dovetails and
drawpegged mortise and tennon.