tapered plug

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>>
>>> todd
>>
>> While pondering this today, the idea popped into my head that my 1" hole
>> saw, when used to cut a hole, would leave a waste piece of about 7/8"
>> diameter. I cut one and used a file to shape it down to be a bit
>> tapered. It was tedious, but it did the trick beautifully. However, I
>> had three more to make and didn't fancy filing them all down. So I cut
>> three more plugs, then chucked up the drum sander into the drill press.
>> I just held the plugs by hand and sanded around the outside to get a
>> taper. This method also worked fine and was much faster.
>>
>> todd
>>
>
> So I take it that given all the suggestions none were the solution. Would
> that be correct?

Well, let's see....
Doug - I do have a lathe, but my solution seemed easier, at least for me.
Leon - The cutter is making the largest plug it can make after taking care
to make the plugs per suggestions.
dpb - I don't have a time machine. Also see my answer to Leon above.
Pat - Thanks, but I'm not buying any more 3/4" plug cutters.

So, yes, you're correct. It could be that the plug cutter I have is just
out of spec (I'm sure it's possible) or my 3/4" Forstner is drilling
oversize holes. Fortunately, I was able to come up with a solution that
worked great and didn't cost me any additional money, so I thought I'd
share.

todd

"dpb" wrote
>
> You could also take and square off the holes and use a square plug.
>
Now THAT is something I had to do once. It was one of those jobs from hell
where everything that could go wrong did. I ended up using a contrasting
color that went over well.

I got an unbelievable amount of ribbing out of that job as well. I was
promoted as the guy who can put square pegs into round holes.

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=908-386
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=959-916
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=880-749

todd wrote:

> While assembling a short handrail for a staircase, I drilled some 3/4" holes
> with the Forstner to accept the head of the carriage bolts I used to anchor
> the post to the staircase. Later, I purchased a 3/4" tapered plug cutter so
> I could cut (what else) tapered plugs to cover up the aforementioned holes.
> The problem I'm runnnig into is that the plug just isn't big enough. I
> don't know if the plug cutter is cutting them undersize of the Forstner is
> oversize, but the plug just isn't quite big enough for an interference fit.
> Any ideas on remedying this situation?
>
> todd
>
>

"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

>>
>> todd
>
> While pondering this today, the idea popped into my head that my 1" hole
> saw, when used to cut a hole, would leave a waste piece of about 7/8"
> diameter. I cut one and used a file to shape it down to be a bit tapered.
> It was tedious, but it did the trick beautifully. However, I had three
> more to make and didn't fancy filing them all down. So I cut three more
> plugs, then chucked up the drum sander into the drill press. I just held
> the plugs by hand and sanded around the outside to get a taper. This
> method also worked fine and was much faster.
>
> todd
>

So I take it that given all the suggestions none were the solution. Would
that be correct?

"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>

>
> So, yes, you're correct. It could be that the plug cutter I have is just
> out of spec (I'm sure it's possible) or my 3/4" Forstner is drilling
> oversize holes. Fortunately, I was able to come up with a solution that
> worked great and didn't cost me any additional money, so I thought I'd
> share.
>
> todd
>

Well so that you don't have the problem in the future, checking the diameter
of the hole would be an easy way to rule out the forstner bit, measuring a
full cut plug with a caliper would insure that you are indeed getting the
sizes + and - the size indicated.

That said, if you are using a hand drill to drill with a forstner bit you
may be getting excess wobble and ending up with a larger than indicated
hole.

In article <[email protected]>, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>While assembling a short handrail for a staircase, I drilled some 3/4" holes
>with the Forstner to accept the head of the carriage bolts I used to anchor
>the post to the staircase. Later, I purchased a 3/4" tapered plug cutter so
>I could cut (what else) tapered plugs to cover up the aforementioned holes.
>The problem I'm runnnig into is that the plug just isn't big enough. I
>don't know if the plug cutter is cutting them undersize of the Forstner is
>oversize, but the plug just isn't quite big enough for an interference fit.
>Any ideas on remedying this situation?

Got a lathe?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> While assembling a short handrail for a staircase, I drilled some 3/4"
> holes with the Forstner to accept the head of the carriage bolts I used to
> anchor the post to the staircase. Later, I purchased a 3/4" tapered plug
> cutter so I could cut (what else) tapered plugs to cover up the
> aforementioned holes. The problem I'm runnnig into is that the plug just
> isn't big enough. I don't know if the plug cutter is cutting them
> undersize of the Forstner is oversize, but the plug just isn't quite big
> enough for an interference fit. Any ideas on remedying this situation?
>
> todd
>

Tapered plug cutters have to be cut to an exact depth for them to be the
proper size.
The deeper you cut, the wider the top/exposed end will be after you cut it
out of the board you cutting into.
To picture this, draw it out on paper and notice that the deeper the plug is
drawn with the tapered sides being wider at the bottom, the wider the plug
is in the bottom. The bottom end is the end that is exposed when you plug
the hole.
Also it could be that your holes are not deep enough for the wider top part
of the plug taper to fill the hole. The plug may be bottoming out before
the top end can seal the hole. If this is the case sand and remove some of
the narrower/bottom end of the plug.

Keep in mind that if you cutting the plug too deep the plug will often break
off in the cutter and you have to pry/dig it out, so be careful when
adjusting the cutting depth in the drill press.

todd wrote:
> While assembling a short handrail for a staircase, I drilled some 3/4" holes
> with the Forstner to accept the head of the carriage bolts I used to anchor
> the post to the staircase. Later, I purchased a 3/4" tapered plug cutter so
> I could cut (what else) tapered plugs to cover up the aforementioned holes.
> The problem I'm runnnig into is that the plug just isn't big enough. I
> don't know if the plug cutter is cutting them undersize of the Forstner is
> oversize, but the plug just isn't quite big enough for an interference fit.
> Any ideas on remedying this situation?


Testing before committing, maybe... :)

As Leon pointed out, the maximum diameter of the plug from a tapered
cutter is at the outside end. To get the largest diameter possible, set
the press to _barely_ break through the far side of the plug material.

And, his point about depth in the hole is a good one.

If those two things don't help, guess it's try to find another cutter,
use the lathe as somebody else already mentioned or whittle some out
from a larger diameter starting point.

You could also take and square off the holes and use a square plug.


--

Lee Michaels wrote:
> "dpb" wrote
>> You could also take and square off the holes and use a square plug.
>>
> Now THAT is something I had to do once. It was one of those jobs from hell
> where everything that could go wrong did. I ended up using a contrasting
> color that went over well.
>
> I got an unbelievable amount of ribbing out of that job as well. I was
> promoted as the guy who can put square pegs into round holes.

:)

The square holes aren't that hard if you have a corner chisel. A little
more of a challenge w/ just a flat blade.

--

"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> While assembling a short handrail for a staircase, I drilled some 3/4"
> holes with the Forstner to accept the head of the carriage bolts I used to
> anchor the post to the staircase. Later, I purchased a 3/4" tapered plug
> cutter so I could cut (what else) tapered plugs to cover up the
> aforementioned holes. The problem I'm runnnig into is that the plug just
> isn't big enough. I don't know if the plug cutter is cutting them
> undersize of the Forstner is oversize, but the plug just isn't quite big
> enough for an interference fit. Any ideas on remedying this situation?
>
> todd

While pondering this today, the idea popped into my head that my 1" hole
saw, when used to cut a hole, would leave a waste piece of about 7/8"
diameter. I cut one and used a file to shape it down to be a bit tapered.
It was tedious, but it did the trick beautifully. However, I had three more
to make and didn't fancy filing them all down. So I cut three more plugs,
then chucked up the drum sander into the drill press. I just held the plugs
by hand and sanded around the outside to get a taper. This method also
worked fine and was much faster.

todd