Tried out my Lee Valley Stile/Rail bit today. Results were awful. The cut
was uneven top to bottom, as if the wood was twisting as it passed the bit.
I was using some scrap pieces of finger jointed pine, as it's nice and soft.
Bit seems fine, so I know it's my technique.
I noticed that the instructions mention that the bearing should be flush
with the fence. Since I have the wood between the fence and the bearing I
suspect some binding may be occurring. (Not to mention dangerous). So apart
from fixing my fence (Ryobi BT3100), what else will help. Should I attach
the work to a larger panel to help keep it steady, as the fence does not
have any hold downs. Will taking several passes help? Although work seems to
cut fine with a single pass.
Tips appreciated.
Yowee, that sounds dangerous. Yes, bury the bit in the fence. Yes,
multiple passes are usually a good idea, although if you did not get any
burning then you might be okay with one pass in pine. I always do two or
more passes. I did some doors yesterday in hard maple and had a lot of
problems with burning. I ended up using about 4 passes I think with the
panel raising bit. My set is CMT, and I did a whole bunch of MDF doors
recently and I know my carbide suffered.
Feather boards are necessary as well IMHO. It sounds like that was part of
your problem as well.
--
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop
"Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tried out my Lee Valley Stile/Rail bit today. Results were awful. The cut
> was uneven top to bottom, as if the wood was twisting as it passed the
bit.
> I was using some scrap pieces of finger jointed pine, as it's nice and
soft.
> Bit seems fine, so I know it's my technique.
>
> I noticed that the instructions mention that the bearing should be flush
> with the fence. Since I have the wood between the fence and the bearing I
> suspect some binding may be occurring. (Not to mention dangerous). So
apart
> from fixing my fence (Ryobi BT3100), what else will help. Should I attach
> the work to a larger panel to help keep it steady, as the fence does not
> have any hold downs. Will taking several passes help? Although work seems
to
> cut fine with a single pass.
>
> Tips appreciated.
>
>
>
>
Never put the stock between the fence and the bit. When they say the bearing
should be flush with the fence, that is what they mean. The stock should be
riding on the fence past the bit. Not between the bit and the fence. You
have a very dangerous situation and no control, or not much. It's a accident
going to happen!
"Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tried out my Lee Valley Stile/Rail bit today. Results were awful. The cut
> was uneven top to bottom, as if the wood was twisting as it passed the
bit.
> I was using some scrap pieces of finger jointed pine, as it's nice and
soft.
> Bit seems fine, so I know it's my technique.
>
> I noticed that the instructions mention that the bearing should be flush
> with the fence. Since I have the wood between the fence and the bearing I
> suspect some binding may be occurring. (Not to mention dangerous). So
apart
> from fixing my fence (Ryobi BT3100), what else will help. Should I attach
> the work to a larger panel to help keep it steady, as the fence does not
> have any hold downs. Will taking several passes help? Although work seems
to
> cut fine with a single pass.
>
> Tips appreciated.
>
>
>
>
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yowee, that sounds dangerous. Yes, bury the bit in the fence. Yes,
> multiple passes are usually a good idea, although if you did not get any
> burning then you might be okay with one pass in pine. I always do two or
> more passes. I did some doors yesterday in hard maple and had a lot of
> problems with burning. I ended up using about 4 passes I think with the
> panel raising bit. My set is CMT, and I did a whole bunch of MDF doors
> recently and I know my carbide suffered.
It was, dangerous that is. I fixed my fence so that it's reversible now (Can
sit on either side of the TS fence). This made a big improvement in the cut
and safety. I think I'll have to build a real fence before I play with any
hardwood. I suspect you're right about the multiple passes in harder woods.
> Feather boards are necessary as well IMHO. It sounds like that was part
of
> your problem as well.
>
> --
> Bill Pounds
> http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop
>
>
> "Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Tried out my Lee Valley Stile/Rail bit today. Results were awful. The
cut
> > was uneven top to bottom, as if the wood was twisting as it passed the
> bit.
> > I was using some scrap pieces of finger jointed pine, as it's nice and
> soft.
> > Bit seems fine, so I know it's my technique.
> >
> > I noticed that the instructions mention that the bearing should be flush
> > with the fence. Since I have the wood between the fence and the bearing
I
> > suspect some binding may be occurring. (Not to mention dangerous). So
> apart
> > from fixing my fence (Ryobi BT3100), what else will help. Should I
attach
> > the work to a larger panel to help keep it steady, as the fence does not
> > have any hold downs. Will taking several passes help? Although work
seems
> to
> > cut fine with a single pass.
> >
> > Tips appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
"Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Tried out my Lee Valley Stile/Rail bit today. Results were awful. The
> cut was uneven top to bottom, as if the wood was twisting as it passed
> the bit. I was using some scrap pieces of finger jointed pine, as it's
> nice and soft. Bit seems fine, so I know it's my technique.
>
> I noticed that the instructions mention that the bearing should be
> flush with the fence. Since I have the wood between the fence and the
> bearing I suspect some binding may be occurring. (Not to mention
> dangerous). So apart from fixing my fence (Ryobi BT3100), what else
> will help. Should I attach the work to a larger panel to help keep it
> steady, as the fence does not have any hold downs. Will taking several
> passes help? Although work seems to cut fine with a single pass.
>
> Tips appreciated.
>
We are talking about a router bit Rail & Stile bit? NEVER run the piece
between the fence and the cutter, for exactly the reasons you describe,
and more.
The cutters are designed to be buried in the (split) fence on a router
table. That doesn't happen easily if you are using the table saw fence
with your routing operation. You're going to need to make a simple fence
to use these cutters safely with your machinery. The good news is that the
materials will be cheap. The bad news is that I don't have the website to
show you how to do it.
www.patwarner.com has lots of information on routing procedure, safety, and
tooling. It's well worth a visit.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/ss-p4-2.htm This fellow is showing how he
made a fence for a similar operation. You'll need to do some extrapolation
for your setup, but that's the direction I think I'd go... You don't need
to make the fence hollow, or work out chip collection. A 2x4 and a 2x6,
ripped and jointed flat will suffice.
Good luck, and experiment safely.
Patriarch
"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Tried out my Lee Valley Stile/Rail bit today. Results were awful. The
> > cut was uneven top to bottom, as if the wood was twisting as it passed
> > the bit. I was using some scrap pieces of finger jointed pine, as it's
> > nice and soft. Bit seems fine, so I know it's my technique.
> >
> > I noticed that the instructions mention that the bearing should be
> > flush with the fence. Since I have the wood between the fence and the
> > bearing I suspect some binding may be occurring. (Not to mention
> > dangerous). So apart from fixing my fence (Ryobi BT3100), what else
> > will help. Should I attach the work to a larger panel to help keep it
> > steady, as the fence does not have any hold downs. Will taking several
> > passes help? Although work seems to cut fine with a single pass.
> >
> > Tips appreciated.
> >
>
> We are talking about a router bit Rail & Stile bit? NEVER run the piece
> between the fence and the cutter, for exactly the reasons you describe,
> and more.
>
> The cutters are designed to be buried in the (split) fence on a router
> table. That doesn't happen easily if you are using the table saw fence
> with your routing operation. You're going to need to make a simple fence
> to use these cutters safely with your machinery. The good news is that
the
> materials will be cheap. The bad news is that I don't have the website to
> show you how to do it.
I scrapped the Ryobi fence a while ago, as it was two pieces. So the piece
would catch on the second half the fence as it went through. I made a quick
and dirty one piece fence, but it wasn't designed to work on the other side
of the TS fence. I fixed that tonight by cutting a second notch, so I can
reverse the fence. It definately improved the work, but it still needs
improvement.
> www.patwarner.com has lots of information on routing procedure, safety,
and
> tooling. It's well worth a visit.
>
> http://www.woodshopdemos.com/ss-p4-2.htm This fellow is showing how he
> made a fence for a similar operation. You'll need to do some
extrapolation
> for your setup, but that's the direction I think I'd go... You don't need
> to make the fence hollow, or work out chip collection. A 2x4 and a 2x6,
> ripped and jointed flat will suffice.
Thanks for the link, I still need a better fence.
> Good luck, and experiment safely.
>
> Patriarch