I'm using Tapcon screws to hold "stuff" in cinder block and concrete
block walls. They recommend using a rotery hammer drill. Any
recommendations in a tailed tool?
I've always gone towards Milwaukee in heavier hand drills, as they've
seemed a bit heaftier than similarly powered competetors. However, I've
noticed smaller-sized hammer drills from DeWalt at the Borg.
Are they worth any thing?
Thanx
Charles
In article <[email protected]>, D. Martin
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I got a Skil today and just finished drilling 4 (1/2") holes and I was
> impressed considering that this is a low end. I really did not expect
> the performance that this $52.00 cdn has to offer.
I picked up a Clarke for $40 cdn a year ago... No great quality, but I
only have to drill into concrete at a rate of maybe 4 holes a year.
I didn't see the point of buying a $200 hammer drill and having $160
sitting on the shelf and unable to be spent on things I'll use all the
time, like turning tools, sandpaper, bandsaw blades, drill bits, etc,
etc.
djb
--
There are no socks in my email address.
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati"
In article <[email protected]>, Morgans
<[email protected]> wrote:
> All good points. How long it will last is the question. Hammer drills lead
> a hard life, with all of the vibrations, the bearings will go first.
If I was going to use one with any regularity, I certainly would buy
the best I could afford.
And if I needed one for a serious one-off job I'd rent a good one
before I'd use the Clarke.
djb
--
There are no socks in my email address.
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati"
On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 21:53:42 -0500, Thomas Kendrick
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Rotary hammers are considerably more expensive, require bits with
>special splined shanks.
SDS is the magic term to look for - accept no substitute !
They're also cheap these days (for unreliable bargain basement values
of "cheap")
A Google of uk.d-i-y for "SDS" will give you more opinions on SDS
drills than you can shake a core drill at. Personally mine is a £200
AEG, bought a few years back and that has paid for itself many times
over.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
DeWalt, Bosch, Hitachi, and Hilti all make nice small hammer drills. You don't
hear much about the Milwaukee ones.
GTO(John)
>I'm using Tapcon screws to hold "stuff" in cinder block and concrete
>block walls. They recommend using a rotery hammer drill. Any
>recommendations in a tailed tool?
>
>I've always gone towards Milwaukee in heavier hand drills, as they've
>seemed a bit heaftier than similarly powered competetors. However, I've
>noticed smaller-sized hammer drills from DeWalt at the Borg.
>
>Are they worth any thing?
>
>Thanx
Charles Krug wrote:
>
> I'm using Tapcon screws to hold "stuff" in cinder block and concrete
> block walls. They recommend using a rotery hammer drill. Any
> recommendations in a tailed tool?
>
> I've always gone towards Milwaukee in heavier hand drills, as they've
> seemed a bit heaftier than similarly powered competetors. However, I've
> noticed smaller-sized hammer drills from DeWalt at the Borg.
>
> Are they worth any thing?
>
> Thanx
>
> Charles
I use a 3/8" Milwaukee HD for drilling for Tapcons, works great for both
the 3/16" & 1/4" sizes. The drill can also be used in non-hammer mode. I
also use it for drilling sole plates for 3/8" wedge anchors with no
problem.
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
When you have a Milwaukee, why look at anything else?
On 07 Oct 2003 16:16:28 GMT, [email protected] (Gfretwell) wrote:
>I have a Skil 1/2" HD that seems to work prettyy well.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> I'm using Tapcon screws to hold "stuff" in cinder block and concrete
> block walls. They recommend using a rotery hammer drill. Any
> recommendations in a tailed tool?
>
> I've always gone towards Milwaukee in heavier hand drills, as they've
> seemed a bit heaftier than similarly powered competetors. However, I've
> noticed smaller-sized hammer drills from DeWalt at the Borg.
>
> Are they worth any thing?
Don't have a fully educated opinion on the DeWalt, but FWIW I've got a
Bosch hammer drill and I love it. Despite a ton of use and abuse it's
never missed a beat. Much recommended if you can spare the $$.
Abe
--
A numeral would be more efficient than spelling out "ONE" in an email
addy, don't you think?
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
...
> Don't have a fully educated opinion on the DeWalt, but FWIW I've got a
> Bosch hammer drill and I love it. Despite a ton of use and abuse it's
> never missed a beat. Much recommended if you can spare the $$.
Oops. Addendum: it's the 1194 with the little gearbox.
--
A numeral would be more efficient than spelling out "ONE" in an email
addy, don't you think?
In article <[email protected]>,
GTO69RA4 <[email protected]> wrote:
>DeWalt, Bosch, Hitachi, and Hilti all make nice small hammer drills. You don't
>hear much about the Milwaukee ones.
I've bought 3 tailed Milwaukee tools (two angle grinders, one SawZall)
and they've been super. Does this extend to their drills? I don't
know, but that's the way I'd bet.
--
--henry schaffer
[email protected]
Hi Chalres,
I'm not familiar with your application but I have experiences with
hammer drills (like the Bosch 1194 VSR) and rotary hammer drills (like
the Bosch 11234VSR).
I can assure you that a rotary hammer drill works a lot better in
concrete than a normal hammer drill. The reason is that modern rotary
hammer drills use pneumatic technology to produce the beat while
hammer drills work with mechanic technology.
Speaking of rotary hammer drills, there are basically two different
chuck systems:
- SDS plus (for smaller dia holes, basically up to 26 mm = about 1")
- SDS max (for larger holes)
Simple SDS is no longer made as far as I know, and different systems
are hardly ever used, maybe on large demolition hammers mainly from
Makita, Hitachi, Kango
IMO the most versatile tool is a rotary hammer drill with a two speed
gear box. They can be used for drilling, hammer drilling and driving.
For example:
Hilti TE 2M http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-12001
Metabo UHE 22 Multi Availabel at
http://www.primetools.com/metabo/rotary_hammers.html for example.
Metabo UHE 28 Multi
The Metabo's are even more useful because they can be used for small
chiseling jobs, too.
I consider both brands to be excellent quality, Hilti is industrial
standard here but I think you'll be more than satisfied with a Metabo
as well.
Personally, I use an (30 year-old) AEG hammer drill, a Kress hammer
drill and a Hilti TE 12S rotary hammer (old model too).
Regards,
Christian Aufreiter, Austria
Lawrence A. Ramsey <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> If I remember correctly, you can use a hammer drill with a chisel on
> bricks, concrete, etc.. You can't a rotary.
This would be new to me.
A hammer drill (like the Bosch 1194 VSR) can be used for drilling in
concrete, metal, wood and for driving screws. The chuck of a hammer
drill doesn't even accept chisels.
Rotary hammer drills can be used for the same things (as you can
switch off the hammer mode usually) and *some* (the Metabo UHE 22
Multi, for example) have a hammer only mode which allows to use them
for chiseling.
I'm not sure but I think SDSmax rotary hammers can't be used for
drilling wood or metal because they don't have enough rpm and a normal
chuck might not be available.
Regards,
Christian
PS: Sorry, Charles, I wrote "Chalres" in my previous post.
There are hammer drills and rotary hammers. For the job at hand, a
hammer drill will be plenty - usually $100 or less and can be used as
a drill as well. I have a Makita.
Rotary hammers are considerably more expensive, require bits with
special splined shanks. The bits are typically only available as
masonry bits with carbide points. Not usually used with ordinary twist
drill bits. But their performance in masonry and concrete is
significantly better than a hammer drill. I have a Bosch.
On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 15:34:30 GMT, Charles Krug <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm using Tapcon screws to hold "stuff" in cinder block and concrete
>block walls. They recommend using a rotery hammer drill. Any
>recommendations in a tailed tool?
>
>I've always gone towards Milwaukee in heavier hand drills, as they've
>seemed a bit heaftier than similarly powered competetors. However, I've
>noticed smaller-sized hammer drills from DeWalt at the Borg.
>
>Are they worth any thing?
>
>Thanx
>
>
>Charles
I use the Porter-Cable hammer drill. My other corded drill is a
Milwaukee, but I bought the PC because it seemed even more durable
than the Milwaukee hammer drill.
<http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2724>
Andy
Charles Krug <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm using Tapcon screws to hold "stuff" in cinder block and concrete
> block walls. They recommend using a rotery hammer drill. Any
> recommendations in a tailed tool?
>
> I've always gone towards Milwaukee in heavier hand drills, as they've
> seemed a bit heaftier than similarly powered competetors. However, I've
> noticed smaller-sized hammer drills from DeWalt at the Borg.
>
> Are they worth any thing?
>
> Thanx
>
>
> Charles
In article <[email protected]>,
Charles Krug <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm using Tapcon screws to hold "stuff" in cinder block and concrete
> block walls. They recommend using a rotery hammer drill. Any
> recommendations in a tailed tool?
>
> I've always gone towards Milwaukee in heavier hand drills, as they've
> seemed a bit heaftier than similarly powered competetors. However, I've
> noticed smaller-sized hammer drills from DeWalt at the Borg.
>
> Are they worth any thing?
I would lean toward the Milwaukee or Bosh in a hammer drill, though I
have friends with Makita's that have served them well. I picked up my
Milwaukee for $100 refurbished at a close out place and have put it
through heck with 1/2x12" carbide bits. It's the squarish one and looks
just like the Bosh, says made in Germany on the label. AEG makes both
Bosh and Milwaukee, and since they invented the hammer drill that's ok
with me.
Dean
So far it has cost you 11.5 cents per hole, thats a great deal, that baby
owes you nothing!
Blair
"Brian Sack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All true. However, I recently bought a Chicago Electric 1" hammer
> drill (on sale for $69 at Harbor Freight, regularly $129) and have
> drilled more than 600 holes with it in concrete. It's the best $69 I
> ever spent. Hard to tell how much longer it will last, but it's
> already paid for itself several times.
>
> bps in NY
Yep. I have 4 of their drills and love them all.
On Tue, 7 Oct 2003 21:33:34 +0000 (UTC), [email protected]
(Henry E Schaffer) wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>GTO69RA4 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>DeWalt, Bosch, Hitachi, and Hilti all make nice small hammer drills. You don't
>>hear much about the Milwaukee ones.
>
> I've bought 3 tailed Milwaukee tools (two angle grinders, one SawZall)
>and they've been super. Does this extend to their drills? I don't
>know, but that's the way I'd bet.
All true. However, I recently bought a Chicago Electric 1" hammer
drill (on sale for $69 at Harbor Freight, regularly $129) and have
drilled more than 600 holes with it in concrete. It's the best $69 I
ever spent. Hard to tell how much longer it will last, but it's
already paid for itself several times.
bps in NY
On Thu, 9 Oct 2003 13:25:54 -0400, "Morgans"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Dave Balderstone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:081020032252414157%[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>, D. Martin
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > I got a Skil today and just finished drilling 4 (1/2") holes and I was
>> > impressed considering that this is a low end. I really did not expect
>> > the performance that this $52.00 cdn has to offer.
>>
>> I picked up a Clarke for $40 cdn a year ago... No great quality, but I
>> only have to drill into concrete at a rate of maybe 4 holes a year.
>>
>> I didn't see the point of buying a $200 hammer drill and having $160
>> sitting on the shelf and unable to be spent on things I'll use all the
>> time, like turning tools, sandpaper, bandsaw blades, drill bits, etc,
>> etc.
>>
>> djb
>
>All good points. How long it will last is the question. Hammer drills lead
>a hard life, with all of the vibrations, the bearings will go first.
If I remember correctly, you can use a hammer drill with a chisel on
bricks, concrete, etc.. You can't a rotary.
On 8 Oct 2003 07:20:46 -0700, [email protected] (Christian
Aufreiter) wrote:
>Hi Chalres,
>
>I'm not familiar with your application but I have experiences with
>hammer drills (like the Bosch 1194 VSR) and rotary hammer drills (like
>the Bosch 11234VSR).
>
>I can assure you that a rotary hammer drill works a lot better in
>concrete than a normal hammer drill. The reason is that modern rotary
>hammer drills use pneumatic technology to produce the beat while
>hammer drills work with mechanic technology.
>
>Speaking of rotary hammer drills, there are basically two different
>chuck systems:
>- SDS plus (for smaller dia holes, basically up to 26 mm = about 1")
>- SDS max (for larger holes)
>
>Simple SDS is no longer made as far as I know, and different systems
>are hardly ever used, maybe on large demolition hammers mainly from
>Makita, Hitachi, Kango
>
>IMO the most versatile tool is a rotary hammer drill with a two speed
>gear box. They can be used for drilling, hammer drilling and driving.
>For example:
>Hilti TE 2M http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-12001
>Metabo UHE 22 Multi Availabel at
>http://www.primetools.com/metabo/rotary_hammers.html for example.
>Metabo UHE 28 Multi
>The Metabo's are even more useful because they can be used for small
>chiseling jobs, too.
>
>I consider both brands to be excellent quality, Hilti is industrial
>standard here but I think you'll be more than satisfied with a Metabo
>as well.
>
>Personally, I use an (30 year-old) AEG hammer drill, a Kress hammer
>drill and a Hilti TE 12S rotary hammer (old model too).
>
>Regards,
>
>Christian Aufreiter, Austria
"Henry E Schaffer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> GTO69RA4 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >DeWalt, Bosch, Hitachi, and Hilti all make nice small hammer drills. You
don't
> >hear much about the Milwaukee ones.
>
> I've bought 3 tailed Milwaukee tools (two angle grinders, one SawZall)
> and they've been super. Does this extend to their drills? I don't
> know, but that's the way I'd bet.
> --
> --henry schaffer
> [email protected]
I have found Milwaukee to be the most durable of all power tools. They also
are usually the most expensive and heaviest.
Your choice.
--
Jim in NC
"Dave Balderstone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:081020032252414157%[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, D. Martin
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I got a Skil today and just finished drilling 4 (1/2") holes and I was
> > impressed considering that this is a low end. I really did not expect
> > the performance that this $52.00 cdn has to offer.
>
> I picked up a Clarke for $40 cdn a year ago... No great quality, but I
> only have to drill into concrete at a rate of maybe 4 holes a year.
>
> I didn't see the point of buying a $200 hammer drill and having $160
> sitting on the shelf and unable to be spent on things I'll use all the
> time, like turning tools, sandpaper, bandsaw blades, drill bits, etc,
> etc.
>
> djb
All good points. How long it will last is the question. Hammer drills lead
a hard life, with all of the vibrations, the bearings will go first.
--
Jim in NC
I have a Milwaukee 6392-1 that I've had for years and it takes a lickin and
keeps on tickin. Great little (3/8) hammer drill. The newer 6392-6
http://tinyurl.com/ql03 seems to have more features. BTW the hammer setting
is great for crosshead deck screws, etc.
ELAhrens
"Charles Krug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm using Tapcon screws to hold "stuff" in cinder block and concrete
> block walls. They recommend using a rotery hammer drill. Any
> recommendations in a tailed tool?
>
> I've always gone towards Milwaukee in heavier hand drills, as they've
> seemed a bit heaftier than similarly powered competetors. However, I've
> noticed smaller-sized hammer drills from DeWalt at the Borg.
>
> Are they worth any thing?
>
> Thanx
>
>
> Charles
>