I thought it would be interesting to see just how far you guys are
willing to go for workshop safety.The reason? well I read some articles
on a board about after searching for a safety fence for my planer and it
seems everyone shuts the stable door after the horse has bolted.One guy
saws his fingers and then thinks about getting a dustcap and
splitter.Dont get me wrong I take risks everytime the cap comes
off...but the moment I`ve done doing what I need to do it goes back
on.My machines are all to NEN safety levels here in Holland.I still have
all my fingers after 23 years in the industry
SO what price?
heres mine
my SO urged me to spend a $1000 on and aigner fence for my moulder
(shaper) so I did
Russell
Impressive idea, but it seems to me that its rocket science at its most
impractical. I'd rather spend all my money and time on prevention, rather
than hoping this gadget will work someday. I think its application would be
in a production shop where there are lots of somewhat skilled workers.
Bob
"David Hall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >I thought it would be interesting to see just how far you guys are
> >willing to go for workshop safety.The reason? well I read some articles
> >on a board about after searching for a safety fence for my planer and it
> >seems everyone shuts the stable door after the horse has bolted.One guy
> >saws his fingers and then thinks about getting a dustcap and
> >splitter.Dont get me wrong I take risks everytime the cap comes
> >off...but the moment I`ve done doing what I need to do it goes back
> >on.My machines are all to NEN safety levels here in Holland.I still have
> >all my fingers after 23 years in the industry
> >SO what price?
> >heres mine
> >my SO urged me to spend a $1000 on and aigner fence for my moulder
> >(shaper) so I did
> >
> >Russell
>
> You ought to buy one of those Saw Stop thingies for your saw.....
>
> Just a lazy day on the river bank
For me, safety is not a price issue. However, I have to understand and be
convinced that a real issue exists and there is something significant I can
do about it before I will spend money. If reasonable caution is all that's
required to be safe, then I won't spend any money. Let me give some
examples.
Drill Press - This device can do some damage if you get your shirt tangled
in it or don't secure your work with large bits. The answer is simple -
roll up your sleeves (or button them tight) and use simple clamps or vice
to secure the workpiece. I've seen pictures of big swing away guards for
drill presses. I will never own one because I am not convinced I need one.
Table saw - Everyone I know is convinced that a table saw is a dangerous
device. Its a balancing act between comfort and control, dust collection,
and safety. The three fight each other and every solution has compromises.
I used a few commercial and shop built push sticks. I built a zero tolerance
throat plate. I wanted to replace the factory blade guard and splitter. We
are not blessed with the European Riving knife and guard designs in the
states. I've pursued buying the European parts for my saw but to no avail.
I was willing to spend $200-$300 for this setup. I recently learned about
the Grip-Tite 2000 magnetic featherboard system. I was so excited about
this that I gladly spent $135. Every day I use them I'm convinced these are
well worth the investment. I no longer need or use old conventional push
sticks. I also bought two GRRipper devices. I was not convinced to spend
$70 each on them, but when they reached $39 each on sale, I bought both. I
like them, but I would not spend the money for two again. I much prefer the
Grip-Tite system. I absolutely refuse to spend $200-$400 for an over blade
guard system. The reason is that they all have lousy to moderate dust
control pickup. Instead I've spent $50 for materials and I am constructing
my own.
Bob
"Russell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I thought it would be interesting to see just how far you guys are
> willing to go for workshop safety.The reason? well I read some articles
> on a board about after searching for a safety fence for my planer and it
> seems everyone shuts the stable door after the horse has bolted.One guy
> saws his fingers and then thinks about getting a dustcap and
> splitter.Dont get me wrong I take risks everytime the cap comes
> off...but the moment I`ve done doing what I need to do it goes back
> on.My machines are all to NEN safety levels here in Holland.I still have
> all my fingers after 23 years in the industry
> SO what price?
> heres mine
> my SO urged me to spend a $1000 on and aigner fence for my moulder
> (shaper) so I did
>
> Russell
>I thought it would be interesting to see just how far you guys are
>willing to go for workshop safety.The reason? well I read some articles
>on a board about after searching for a safety fence for my planer and it
>seems everyone shuts the stable door after the horse has bolted.One guy
>saws his fingers and then thinks about getting a dustcap and
>splitter.Dont get me wrong I take risks everytime the cap comes
>off...but the moment I`ve done doing what I need to do it goes back
>on.My machines are all to NEN safety levels here in Holland.I still have
>all my fingers after 23 years in the industry
>SO what price?
>heres mine
>my SO urged me to spend a $1000 on and aigner fence for my moulder
>(shaper) so I did
>
>Russell
You ought to buy one of those Saw Stop thingies for your saw.....
Just a lazy day on the river bank
On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 22:53:20 -0800, Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 23:04:18 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
>scribbled:
>
>>On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 20:02:05 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 16:11:40 GMT, "Bob Davis"
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>We are not blessed with the European Riving knife and guard designs in the
>>>>states. I've pursued buying the European parts for my saw but to no avail.
>>>>I was willing to spend $200-$300 for this setup.
>>>
>>>Could you (or anyone) provide me with a list of top European
>>>woodworking equipment suppliers? I witnessed a pretty eye-opening
>>>kick-back yesterday and would like to check out other safety options
>>>available. Plus, you never know - those furriners' may just know a
>>>thing or two.
>>>
>>>Thanks. (And no, I haven't done a google search yet, but I will later
>>>and will post my results.)
>>
>>Rojek http://www.rojekusa.com/PHP/index.php
>>
>>Felder http://www.felder.co.at/index.php
>>
>>Hammer http://www.hammer.co.at (essentially Felder it looks like)
>>
>>Robland and Knapp appear to be covered by
>>http://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk
>>
>>This is pretty much it for European woodworking toolmakers.
>
>Lessee:
>Minimax: http://www.minimax-usa.com/
>
>Laguna: http://www.lagunatools.com/
>
>Inca: http://www.garrettwade.com/
>
>SCM group: http://www.scmgroup-usa.com/main_html.html
>
>Agazzani bandsaws: http://www.eagle-tools.com/Pages/agazzani.html
>
>Altendorf: http://www.altendorfamerica.com/
>
>Who else am I missing, Keith?
<shocked expression> You mean I *didn't* cover them all?! Grazie!!
JP
I don't have one of those! I didn't even know they existed. I use my router
for cutting circles. I think you are wise.
Bob
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bob Davis wrote:
>
> > Drill Press - This device can do some damage if you get your shirt
> > tangled in it or don't secure your work with large bits. The answer
> > is simple - roll up your sleeves (or button them tight) and use
> > simple clamps or vice to secure the workpiece. I've seen pictures
> > of big swing away guards for drill presses. I will never own one
> > because I am not convinced I need one.
>
> I agree in general. However, I do plan to make a see through guard for
when
> I'm using my circle cutter. The 6" diameter exposed arm and cutters are
> just too out in the open for my comfort.
>
> -- Mark
>
>
Jerry Gilreath wrote:
> Mark,
> What speed are you turning yours? The instructions say what, 500 rpm?
> I can't get my dp down past 660 or something like that. But, is your
> center bit straight? Does it wallow out just a bit? I've tried to
> line mine up but to no avail.
My Jet floor DP goes all the way down to 200 RPM. ;-) The Sears Craftsman
bench DP I had before it would only go down to about 700 RPM, IIRC. The
tool does state 500 RPM max.
The center bit wobbles a little but it doesn't seem to affect the accuracy
of the hole.
I got an inexpensive set of forstner bits that go up to 2" so I don't have
to use the circle cutter for anything 2" or smaller anymore. Got mine from
Grizzly, here's a similar set from HF that are even less expensive.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47128
-- Mark
>
> Table saw - Everyone I know is convinced that a table saw is a dangerous
> device. Its a balancing act between comfort and control, dust collection,
> and safety. The three fight each other and every solution has compromises.
> I used a few commercial and shop built push sticks. I built a zero tolerance
> throat plate. I wanted to replace the factory blade guard and splitter. We
> are not blessed with the European Riving knife and guard designs in the
> states. I've pursued buying the European parts for my saw but to no avail.
> I was willing to spend $200-$300 for this setup. I recently learned about
> the Grip-Tite 2000 magnetic featherboard system. I was so excited about
> this that I gladly spent $135. Every day I use them I'm convinced these are
> well worth the investment. I no longer need or use old conventional push
> sticks. I also bought two GRRipper devices. I was not convinced to spend
> $70 each on them, but when they reached $39 each on sale, I bought both. I
> like them, but I would not spend the money for two again. I much prefer the
> Grip-Tite system. I absolutely refuse to spend $200-$400 for an over blade
> guard system. The reason is that they all have lousy to moderate dust
> control pickup. Instead I've spent $50 for materials and I am constructing
> my own.
Bob,
I have lived in the Nethelands for 12 years now but when I first got
here I was always used to english machines and the likes of,over the
years I sort of transferred over to the continental style stuff but
before then I have always made use of small engineering companies and
schools who were more than willing to fabricate stuff to my specs and
amazingly the cost was often less than the factory equivalent.So what
about getting behind the drawing board and getting the riving knife
holder made.if not try here they export to the states and know their
stuff Ive used them before with a lot of success.Suva is sort of
recognised here as the market leader in dustcaps and riving knives
http://www.machines4wood.com
regards
Russell
Hi Bob
mail these people and explain your situation(dont worry about doing it
in english most people here speak it)Jet Europe wont deal with end users
[email protected]
www.vdhbv.nl
few help words to navigate the site
Producten =Products (difficult one that)
Houtbewerkingsmachines = woodwork machines
Merken = makers
Tafelcirkelzaag = table saw
its worth the effort and they were pretty friendly with me...I speak
dutch so if you dont have any luck let me know I can probably organise
it from this end
Greets
Russell
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Now that's an interesting approach. I live in an area where there are tons
> of machine shops. But they all service the chemical, petroleum and oil
> exploration industries. I don't even amount to the sales tax on their work.
> Thanks for the tip.
>
> An aquaintance in Ireland sent me photos and excerpts from the Jet manual
> showing the parts, but I have to find a willing dealer to get them for me.
> Jet Europe could care less about a small order from the states.
>
> Bob
>
> "Russell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > I have lived in the Nethelands for 12 years now but when I first got
> > here I was always used to english machines and the likes of,over the
> > years I sort of transferred over to the continental style stuff but
> > before then I have always made use of small engineering companies and
> > schools who were more than willing to fabricate stuff to my specs and
> > amazingly the cost was often less than the factory equivalent.So what
> > about getting behind the drawing board and getting the riving knife
> > holder made.if not try here they export to the states and know their
> > stuff Ive used them before with a lot of success.Suva is sort of
> > recognised here as the market leader in dustcaps and riving knives
> > http://www.machines4wood.com
> > regards
> > Russell
>
>
>
Any idea what the root cause was? I'm sorry, I don't know enough about
European imported stuff to comment much.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I witnessed a pretty eye-opening
> kick-back yesterday and would like to check out other safety options
> available. Plus, you never know - those furriners' may just know a
> thing or two.
Bob
Mark,
What speed are you turning yours? The instructions say what, 500 rpm? I
can't get my dp down past 660 or something like that. But, is your center
bit straight? Does it wallow out just a bit? I've tried to line mine up but
to no avail.
--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
Homer Simpson
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bob Davis wrote:
> > I don't have one of those! I didn't even know they existed. I use my
> > router for cutting circles. I think you are wise.
>
> I've never bought / made a router circle jig for circles under 6". The
> circle cutter in the DP works wonderfully, but it is one of those things
> that scares me so a guard is in order.
>
> BTW, the circle cutter can make holes or wheels depending on how you set
it
> up. It is a useful tool. I don't have any router bits that have a
thinner
> kerf than the DP circle cutter.
>
> -- Mark
>
>
Bob Davis wrote:
> I don't have one of those! I didn't even know they existed. I use my
> router for cutting circles. I think you are wise.
I've never bought / made a router circle jig for circles under 6". The
circle cutter in the DP works wonderfully, but it is one of those things
that scares me so a guard is in order.
BTW, the circle cutter can make holes or wheels depending on how you set it
up. It is a useful tool. I don't have any router bits that have a thinner
kerf than the DP circle cutter.
-- Mark
On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 20:02:05 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 16:11:40 GMT, "Bob Davis"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>We are not blessed with the European Riving knife and guard designs in the
>>states. I've pursued buying the European parts for my saw but to no avail.
>>I was willing to spend $200-$300 for this setup.
>
>Could you (or anyone) provide me with a list of top European
>woodworking equipment suppliers? I witnessed a pretty eye-opening
>kick-back yesterday and would like to check out other safety options
>available. Plus, you never know - those furriners' may just know a
>thing or two.
>
>Thanks. (And no, I haven't done a google search yet, but I will later
>and will post my results.)
Rojek http://www.rojekusa.com/PHP/index.php
Felder http://www.felder.co.at/index.php
Hammer http://www.hammer.co.at (essentially Felder it looks like)
Robland and Knapp appear to be covered by
http://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk
This is pretty much it for European woodworking toolmakers.
JP
Bob Davis wrote:
> Drill Press - This device can do some damage if you get your shirt
> tangled in it or don't secure your work with large bits. The answer
> is simple - roll up your sleeves (or button them tight) and use
> simple clamps or vice to secure the workpiece. I've seen pictures
> of big swing away guards for drill presses. I will never own one
> because I am not convinced I need one.
I agree in general. However, I do plan to make a see through guard for when
I'm using my circle cutter. The 6" diameter exposed arm and cutters are
just too out in the open for my comfort.
-- Mark
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 04:38:09 GMT, "Bob Davis"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Any idea what the root cause was? I'm sorry, I don't know enough about
>European imported stuff to comment much.
(re: kick-back) The root cause was unsafe technique. He was cutting
a piece of luan with the bowed edges up. It rocked, caught, spun it
around the top of the blade and shot it square into his lower
stomach/upper groin. He went down in a hurry, and it was "only" a
piece of luan about 24" square. He's ok now. It makes me want to
take another look at leather aprons.
JP
>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I witnessed a pretty eye-opening
>> kick-back yesterday and would like to check out other safety options
>> available. Plus, you never know - those furriners' may just know a
>> thing or two.
>
>Bob
>
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 23:04:18 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
scribbled:
>On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 20:02:05 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 16:11:40 GMT, "Bob Davis"
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>We are not blessed with the European Riving knife and guard designs in the
>>>states. I've pursued buying the European parts for my saw but to no avail.
>>>I was willing to spend $200-$300 for this setup.
>>
>>Could you (or anyone) provide me with a list of top European
>>woodworking equipment suppliers? I witnessed a pretty eye-opening
>>kick-back yesterday and would like to check out other safety options
>>available. Plus, you never know - those furriners' may just know a
>>thing or two.
>>
>>Thanks. (And no, I haven't done a google search yet, but I will later
>>and will post my results.)
>
>Rojek http://www.rojekusa.com/PHP/index.php
>
>Felder http://www.felder.co.at/index.php
>
>Hammer http://www.hammer.co.at (essentially Felder it looks like)
>
>Robland and Knapp appear to be covered by
>http://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk
>
>This is pretty much it for European woodworking toolmakers.
Lessee:
Minimax: http://www.minimax-usa.com/
Laguna: http://www.lagunatools.com/
Inca: http://www.garrettwade.com/
SCM group: http://www.scmgroup-usa.com/main_html.html
Agazzani bandsaws: http://www.eagle-tools.com/Pages/agazzani.html
Altendorf: http://www.altendorfamerica.com/
Who else am I missing, Keith?
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
Now that's an interesting approach. I live in an area where there are tons
of machine shops. But they all service the chemical, petroleum and oil
exploration industries. I don't even amount to the sales tax on their work.
Thanks for the tip.
An aquaintance in Ireland sent me photos and excerpts from the Jet manual
showing the parts, but I have to find a willing dealer to get them for me.
Jet Europe could care less about a small order from the states.
Bob
"Russell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have lived in the Nethelands for 12 years now but when I first got
> here I was always used to english machines and the likes of,over the
> years I sort of transferred over to the continental style stuff but
> before then I have always made use of small engineering companies and
> schools who were more than willing to fabricate stuff to my specs and
> amazingly the cost was often less than the factory equivalent.So what
> about getting behind the drawing board and getting the riving knife
> holder made.if not try here they export to the states and know their
> stuff Ive used them before with a lot of success.Suva is sort of
> recognised here as the market leader in dustcaps and riving knives
> http://www.machines4wood.com
> regards
> Russell
On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 16:11:40 GMT, "Bob Davis"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>We are not blessed with the European Riving knife and guard designs in the
>states. I've pursued buying the European parts for my saw but to no avail.
>I was willing to spend $200-$300 for this setup.
Could you (or anyone) provide me with a list of top European
woodworking equipment suppliers? I witnessed a pretty eye-opening
kick-back yesterday and would like to check out other safety options
available. Plus, you never know - those furriners' may just know a
thing or two.
Thanks. (And no, I haven't done a google search yet, but I will later
and will post my results.)
JP
> my SO urged me to spend a $1000 on and aigner fence for my moulder
> (shaper) so I did
>
> Russell
LOL, probably not a good example Russel. If my wife thought I needed any
woodworking item for any amount of money it wouldn't take any urging for me
to be out the door and at the store.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net