I installed some crown molding over the weekend, and it went pretty well for
my first time. However, I made one error on an butted inside corner, which
was my first piece. I nailed the corner immediately, and then realized that
I should have left it loose, so I can have some wiggle room when setting the
coped piece onto it. For the rest of the CM, I left the butted ends loose
until I got the coped piece up, and the corners came out beautifully. Live
and learn.
Now, the top of butted piece in question is sitting about 1/4 forward on the
ceiling, and the cope doesn't fit.
What's the best way to determine the correct saw setting to compensate? I
experimented yesterday, and ended up in frustration and felt I was going in
circles. Should I first set the saw at 31.6 and 33.8, and increase the
miter and leave the bevel fixed? Will changing the bevel only affect the
profile of the cut?
I may end up pulling the piece off, but I had to risk doing collateral
damage and would prefer to find the right angle if I can come up with the
correct methodology.
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I installed some crown molding over the weekend, and it went pretty
> well for my first time. However, I made one error on an butted
> inside corner, which was my first piece. I nailed the corner
> immediately, and then realized that I should have left it loose, so I
> can have some wiggle room when setting the coped piece onto it. For
> the rest of the CM, I left the butted ends loose until I got the
> coped piece up, and the corners came out beautifully. Live and learn.
>
> Now, the top of butted piece in question is sitting about 1/4 forward
> on the ceiling, and the cope doesn't fit.
>
> What's the best way to determine the correct saw setting to
> compensate? I experimented yesterday, and ended up in frustration
> and felt I was going in circles. Should I first set the saw at 31.6
> and 33.8, and increase the miter and leave the bevel fixed? Will
> changing the bevel only affect the profile of the cut?
>
> I may end up pulling the piece off, but I had to risk doing collateral
> damage and would prefer to find the right angle if I can come up with
> the correct methodology.
There's always the "get a big hammer" method. Use a block of wood againt
the top of the crown and wack it good with a hammer. This will push it in
enough to allow for the right angle. Hell of a lot faster than trying to
figure out the angle. DAMHIKT.
Gary (now I'll wait for the flames.....but it works!)
I have to agree with Gary on this one. A block of wood and a hammer is all
you need to gently tap the crown into the correct position on the
all. --dave
"GeeDubb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Buck Turgidson wrote:
>> I installed some crown molding over the weekend, and it went pretty
>> well for my first time. However, I made one error on an butted
>> inside corner, which was my first piece. I nailed the corner
>> immediately, and then realized that I should have left it loose, so I
>> can have some wiggle room when setting the coped piece onto it. For
>> the rest of the CM, I left the butted ends loose until I got the
>> coped piece up, and the corners came out beautifully. Live and learn.
>>
>> Now, the top of butted piece in question is sitting about 1/4 forward
>> on the ceiling, and the cope doesn't fit.
>>
>> What's the best way to determine the correct saw setting to
>> compensate? I experimented yesterday, and ended up in frustration
>> and felt I was going in circles. Should I first set the saw at 31.6
>> and 33.8, and increase the miter and leave the bevel fixed? Will
>> changing the bevel only affect the profile of the cut?
>>
>> I may end up pulling the piece off, but I had to risk doing collateral
>> damage and would prefer to find the right angle if I can come up with
>> the correct methodology.
>
> There's always the "get a big hammer" method. Use a block of wood againt
> the top of the crown and wack it good with a hammer. This will push it in
> enough to allow for the right angle. Hell of a lot faster than trying to
> figure out the angle. DAMHIKT.
>
> Gary (now I'll wait for the flames.....but it works!)
>
Practice on scrap until it fits; then cut the "real" molding.
David
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I installed some crown molding over the weekend, and it went pretty well for
> my first time. However, I made one error on an butted inside corner, which
> was my first piece. I nailed the corner immediately, and then realized that
> I should have left it loose, so I can have some wiggle room when setting the
> coped piece onto it. For the rest of the CM, I left the butted ends loose
> until I got the coped piece up, and the corners came out beautifully. Live
> and learn.
>
> Now, the top of butted piece in question is sitting about 1/4 forward on the
> ceiling, and the cope doesn't fit.
>
> What's the best way to determine the correct saw setting to compensate? I
> experimented yesterday, and ended up in frustration and felt I was going in
> circles. Should I first set the saw at 31.6 and 33.8, and increase the
> miter and leave the bevel fixed? Will changing the bevel only affect the
> profile of the cut?
>
> I may end up pulling the piece off, but I had to risk doing collateral
> damage and would prefer to find the right angle if I can come up with the
> correct methodology.
>
>
On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 02:16:10 GMT, "Dave Jackson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have to agree with Gary on this one. A block of wood and a hammer is all
>you need to gently tap the crown into the correct position on the
>all. --dave
>
you may also use a punch to drive some of the nails through th CM
first. makes for less hammer and more finness you can always renail
after it fits.
skeez
>
>"GeeDubb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Buck Turgidson wrote:
>>> I installed some crown molding over the weekend, and it went pretty
>>> well for my first time. However, I made one error on an butted
>>> inside corner, which was my first piece. I nailed the corner
>>> immediately, and then realized that I should have left it loose, so I
>>> can have some wiggle room when setting the coped piece onto it. For
>>> the rest of the CM, I left the butted ends loose until I got the
>>> coped piece up, and the corners came out beautifully. Live and learn.
>>>
>>> Now, the top of butted piece in question is sitting about 1/4 forward
>>> on the ceiling, and the cope doesn't fit.
>>>
>>> What's the best way to determine the correct saw setting to
>>> compensate? I experimented yesterday, and ended up in frustration
>>> and felt I was going in circles. Should I first set the saw at 31.6
>>> and 33.8, and increase the miter and leave the bevel fixed? Will
>>> changing the bevel only affect the profile of the cut?
>>>
>>> I may end up pulling the piece off, but I had to risk doing collateral
>>> damage and would prefer to find the right angle if I can come up with
>>> the correct methodology.
>>
>> There's always the "get a big hammer" method. Use a block of wood againt
>> the top of the crown and wack it good with a hammer. This will push it in
>> enough to allow for the right angle. Hell of a lot faster than trying to
>> figure out the angle. DAMHIKT.
>>
>> Gary (now I'll wait for the flames.....but it works!)
>>
>