On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 10:51:47 -0500, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanx. I just think that 3/4 would be a little thicker (in looks) than I
>wanted for cutlery dividers and other drawer things. Sometimes it's just a
>matter of getting used to the thickness and then it looks normal again...LOL
I guess I wasn't clear, I rip it 1/8" thick for jewelry box dividers
so they are 3/4" tall and 1/8" thick. If you use 8/4 stock you can
get 1-3/4" tall by however thick you want. If that is still not tall
enough, then you can get thin stock from wall lumber (or make it
yourself).
http://walllumber.com/thin.asp
-Kevin
On Jan 9, 11:35=A0am, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I can see myself buying a table saw one of these days. I know too many lo=
st
> an eye and other parts with them so I have avoided it and the room space =
is
> a factor.
>
> Sounds like a tall rip for such a small piece. Thanx for the clarificatio=
n.
>
> "Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> I guess I wasn't clear, I rip it 1/8" thick for jewelry box dividers
> so they are 3/4" tall and 1/8" thick. =A0If you use 8/4 stock you can
> get 1-3/4" tall by however thick you want. =A0If that is still not tall
> enough, then you can get thin stock from wall lumber (or make it
> yourself).
>
> http://walllumber.com/thin.asp
>
> -Kevin
>
> On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 10:51:47 -0500, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Thanx. I just think that 3/4 would be a little thicker (in looks) than I
> wanted for cutlery dividers and other drawer things. Sometimes it's just =
a
> matter of getting used to the thickness and then it looks normal again...=
LOL
How are you building all this stuff for 45 years and don't own or are
reluctant to use a tablesaw? Are you real good with a bandsaw or
circular saw? My tablesaw is pretty much the machine that 90% of all
my stock goes thru if it doesn't go thru anything else. ~If~ you had a
tablesaw, you could make this stock in mere moments.
RP
Thanx for that. I would have to find a more local place. I am not sure how
hard they would would kick me going across the border via shipping though.
UPS and FedEx have bad reputations for this unless precleared by paying
Canuck taxes up front.
I guess I need to search for local hardwood suppliers more thoroughly, since
I will have some time coming up. I know HD is brutal to buy a piece of 3/4"
x 8" x 60" red oak for $45 here. Be the end of my hobby of that keeps
up...LOL
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
No, no. The proper tool for resaw is the bandsaw. Get some 8/4 maple or
poplar or birch. You can resaw it to 5/16" or 3/8" and plane or
thickness sand to 1/4". Or resaw to 3/16" or 1/4" to get 1/8".
If you don't have the tools needed, buy thin lumber on line. I did a
quick Google and found several places. Among them:
http://www.kencraftstore.com/woods/soft_maple.htm
On Sun, 09 Jan 2011 11:35:32 -0500, Josepi wrote:
I can see myself buying a table saw one of these days. I know too many
lost an eye and other parts with them so I have avoided it and the room
space is a factor.
Poplar seams to be the wood of choice and the one I figured to use but is
there a source of say 1/4" matrial in this?. I considered flooring underlay
(3/16" ??) but I believe it is only one sided and the plies would show.
"Morgans" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Poplar is one of the most stable easy working, fine grained wood. It is
what I would use. It also is easy to finish, and is closed grained, so it
finishes slick and smooth, easily.
Basswood works almost as easy, and has good finishing grain also, but is a
bit softer.
--
Jim in NC
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
>
> I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must
> come
> in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to
> have
> the stripes on the top edge for this.
I can see myself buying a table saw one of these days. I know too many lost
an eye and other parts with them so I have avoided it and the room space is
a factor.
Sounds like a tall rip for such a small piece. Thanx for the clarification.
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I guess I wasn't clear, I rip it 1/8" thick for jewelry box dividers
so they are 3/4" tall and 1/8" thick. If you use 8/4 stock you can
get 1-3/4" tall by however thick you want. If that is still not tall
enough, then you can get thin stock from wall lumber (or make it
yourself).
http://walllumber.com/thin.asp
-Kevin
On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 10:51:47 -0500, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
Thanx. I just think that 3/4 would be a little thicker (in looks) than I
wanted for cutlery dividers and other drawer things. Sometimes it's just a
matter of getting used to the thickness and then it looks normal again...LOL
NICE!!! THANX.
A friend and neighbour (fellow home builder) has old venetian blind slats he
uses for everything. It's a running joke between us to use them for window
shims and a tonne of other stuff. These are plastic though.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Go to Home Depot and buy an inexpensive 2" slat Venitian blind.
Disassemble.
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?I am looking for that
white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must
come in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not
to
have the stripes on the top edge for this.
TIA
I found some nice poplar stock at HD today 1/4" x 3" x 4' long for under $10
so there is hope. Thye also had a few other handy sizes and thicknesses. It
seems last time the stuff was so dried out, warped and split to hell I just
discounted it completely.
This poplar stock is quite green in spots. Does this disapear with finishing
or is there a way to get it out. Perhaps a different supply is in order or
go to maple, if it will hold still long enough to stay in the drawers.
"Morgans" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Poplar is one of the most stable easy working, fine grained wood. It is
what I would use. It also is easy to finish, and is closed grained, so it
finishes slick and smooth, easily.
Basswood works almost as easy, and has good finishing grain also, but is a
bit softer.
--
Jim in NC
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must
come in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to
have the stripes on the top edge for this.
On Jan 8, 4:28=A0pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
>
> I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must c=
ome
> in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to h=
ave
> the stripes on the top edge for this.
>
> TIA
You'll need to make this yourself. What machines do you have?
Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Sun, 09 Jan 2011 11:35:32 -0500, Josepi wrote:
>
>
>>I can see myself buying a table saw one of these days. I know too many
>>lost an eye and other parts with them so I have avoided it and the room
>>space is a factor.
>
>
> No, no. The proper tool for resaw is the bandsaw. Get some 8/4 maple or
> poplar or birch. You can resaw it to 5/16" or 3/8" and plane or
> thickness sand to 1/4". Or resaw to 3/16" or 1/4" to get 1/8".
>
> If you don't have the tools needed, buy thin lumber on line. I did a
> quick Google and found several places. Among them:
>
> http://www.kencraftstore.com/woods/soft_maple.htm
>
There is also Advantage Lumber & Trim in Buffalo, NY:
http://www.advantagelumber.com/thinwood.htm
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 22:43:26 -0500, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanx.
>
>I wondered about maple but I have had a lot of warping with maple in the
>past. Perhaps in thinner material for dividers it would suit.
>
>The other problem is finding a supply of 3/8 - 1/2" stock.
I use poplar and I rip it down from 3/4" stock so you end up with
quartersawn dividers. Easy on the tools and hardly ever have any that
bow. If I need dividers shorter than 3/4" then I usually rip them
down after the fact but nothing stopping you from planing the stock
down first if you need to. If I needed something taller then I would
use 8/4 poplar.
-Kevin
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
>
> I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must
> come
> in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to
> have
> the stripes on the top edge for this.
>
> TIA
>
>
Go to Home Depot and buy an inexpensive 2" slat Venitian blind.
Disassemble.
Thanx.
I wondered about maple but I have had a lot of warping with maple in the
past. Perhaps in thinner material for dividers it would suit.
The other problem is finding a supply of 3/8 - 1/2" stock.
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Hard maple makes good dividers and is light in color.
John
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Make what myself? I was asking what the wood was not how to make
> them....LOL
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Make what myself? I was asking what the wood was not how to make
> them....LOL
Hard maple makes good dividers and is light in color.
John
I make use of my circular saw in some weird ways.
Since I do not have a thickness planer I typically get my boards pre-planed.
In the last few years I have lost easy access to good hardwood suppliers
though.
For long ripping I typically end up taping two pieces together and then
clamping both down under a fence piece. With about 2" of show I can rip off
what I want and a half an inch under the fence piece clamped.
I hav done some weird stuff with router tables too, including creating some
arrows that shouldn't have flown across the room...LOL
"RP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:03900c46-bc5b-4d17-ae7c-0184642c0fcb@j25g2000vbs.googlegroups.com...
How are you building all this stuff for 45 years and don't own or are
reluctant to use a tablesaw? Are you real good with a bandsaw or
circular saw? My tablesaw is pretty much the machine that 90% of all
my stock goes thru if it doesn't go thru anything else. ~If~ you had a
tablesaw, you could make this stock in mere moments.
RP
Sounds like the scrounge may be more lucrative for these types of items.
"Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Speaking as a Cheap Bastard (tm) I have made many drawer cases and
dividers from stock that was cannabalized from old dressers and other
furniture left at the curb on bulk trash pickup day. I'm not above pulling
the drawers out and leaving the carcase on the curb, then cutting the
sides, bottom, & back out for my stockpile when I get home. Many old
pieces used oak or oak strip glueups for the drawer sides and backs.
--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
Yes, a planar may be on the buy list fairly soon.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
It seemed you were mentining what 1/8" thick material you can buy and
I was just saying that you probably need to make it if you want real
wood at 1/8" think.
If you had a planer, I would describe how to make them with that piece
of equip. and bandsaw, a tablesaw, etc.
When pure white is needed usually Bass wood or Holly are used. Clean
hard Maple can work also but you will always get some mineral color so
harder to get 100% white.
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
>
> I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must
> come
> in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to
> have
> the stripes on the top edge for this.
Around these parts you can get Baltic Birch ply as thin as 1/8. Light
colored and stable as it gets.
Dave in Houston
In article <[email protected]>,
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I found some nice poplar stock at HD today 1/4" x 3" x 4' long for under $10
> so there is hope. Thye also had a few other handy sizes and thicknesses. It
> seems last time the stuff was so dried out, warped and split to hell I just
> discounted it completely.
>
>
> This poplar stock is quite green in spots. Does this disapear with finishing
> or is there a way to get it out. Perhaps a different supply is in order or
> go to maple, if it will hold still long enough to stay in the drawers.
That's tulip poplar, aka the poplar of hardwood commerce. It MAY go
brown if you leave it out in the sun, but it will be either green or
brown in those green parts, unless perhaps you bleach it.
Cottonwood/ aspen/ the poplar (or popple) of the forest, no tulip
attached, is dead white, but softer and prone to rot if it gets wet.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
In article <[email protected]>,
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
>
> I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must come
> in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to have
> the stripes on the top edge for this.
Aside from many other decent suggestions (basically resaw from planks a
lot) and along the same line as the "buy wooden venetian blinds for
premade stock if you are looking for that and can't/won't resaw..."
Bandsaw is better for resawing, takes less space, and is less prone to
the tablesaw-specific problems you are afraid of. Will still bite you if
you are stupid around it, of course - anything that cuts wood cuts
flesh. You can also resaw by hand (as usual with neander methods, much
less space and money, but more practice is helpful, and things need to
be sharp to work well.) I don't recall when, but at some point good old
Tage Frid suggested the bandsaw as a more logical first power saw for a
shop than the table saw. Someone with a FWW database/CDROM/DVD can
probably find the article, unless it was in one of this books.
Depending what size you need - popsicle sticks, tongue depressors (both
AKA craft sticks, and usually birch, I think), paint stirring sticks,
yard sticks/rulers. The hobby shop route is possible but expensive. Up
until the rulers and yardsitcjks, which used to be cheap but are less so
these days, all of these are quite cheap sources of thin stock.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
-MIKE- wrote the following:
> On 1/8/11 9:43 PM, Josepi wrote:
>> Thanx.
>>
>> I wondered about maple but I have had a lot of warping with maple in the
>> past. Perhaps in thinner material for dividers it would suit.
>>
>> The other problem is finding a supply of 3/8 - 1/2" stock.
>>
>
> The only time I see solid stock that thin is in craft stores in the
> balsa wood bins.
Better yet. In the craft stores they have bins of Basswood in various
thicknesses.
Harder than balsa. I used to make dollhouse furniture from it when my
girls were young.
> The guy makes furniture and surely has a bandsaw and/or planer to
> re-saw and surface.
>
>
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Found a really nice possibility at the hardware / building supply store.
Finger jointed pine lattice slats sold as moldings. They come about 5/16" x
1.5", 2" and 3"
Of course they would need to be picked over to hide some of colour change
joints for nicer drawer divider looks.
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must come
in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to have
the stripes on the top edge for this.
TIA
On Jan 8, 7:23=A0pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Make what myself? I was asking what the wood was not how to make them....=
LOL
It seemed you were mentining what 1/8" thick material you can buy and
I was just saying that you probably need to make it if you want real
wood at 1/8" think.
If you had a planer, I would describe how to make them with that piece
of equip. and bandsaw, a tablesaw, etc.
When pure white is needed usually Bass wood or Holly are used. Clean
hard Maple can work also but you will always get some mineral color so
harder to get 100% white.
I picked up some 1/8 red oak stock the other day in home depot.
I didn't have any red oak , and needed a small amount, and decided it
would do.
On 1/8/2011 11:38 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 1/8/11 9:43 PM, Josepi wrote:
>> Thanx.
>>
>> I wondered about maple but I have had a lot of warping with maple in the
>> past. Perhaps in thinner material for dividers it would suit.
>>
>> The other problem is finding a supply of 3/8 - 1/2" stock.
>>
>
> The only time I see solid stock that thin is in craft stores in the
> balsa wood bins.
> The guy makes furniture and surely has a bandsaw and/or planer to re-saw
> and surface.
>
>
"Dave In Texas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
>>
>> I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must
>> come
>> in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to
>> have
>> the stripes on the top edge for this.
>
> Around these parts you can get Baltic Birch ply as thin as 1/8. Light
> colored and stable as it gets.
>
> Dave in Houston
Read his last sentence again.
"I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to
have
the stripes on the top edge for this".
On 1/8/11 9:43 PM, Josepi wrote:
> Thanx.
>
> I wondered about maple but I have had a lot of warping with maple in the
> past. Perhaps in thinner material for dividers it would suit.
>
> The other problem is finding a supply of 3/8 - 1/2" stock.
>
The only time I see solid stock that thin is in craft stores in the
balsa wood bins.
The guy makes furniture and surely has a bandsaw and/or planer to re-saw
and surface.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/8/11 10:38 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 1/8/11 9:43 PM, Josepi wrote:
>> Thanx.
>>
>> I wondered about maple but I have had a lot of warping with maple in the
>> past. Perhaps in thinner material for dividers it would suit.
>>
>> The other problem is finding a supply of 3/8 - 1/2" stock.
>>
>
> The only time I see solid stock that thin is in craft stores in the
> balsa wood bins.
> The guy makes furniture and surely has a bandsaw and/or planer to re-saw
> and surface.
>
Wait a sec. You're *the guy,* right? Ok never mind.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sun, 09 Jan 2011 11:35:32 -0500, Josepi wrote:
> I can see myself buying a table saw one of these days. I know too many
> lost an eye and other parts with them so I have avoided it and the room
> space is a factor.
No, no. The proper tool for resaw is the bandsaw. Get some 8/4 maple or
poplar or birch. You can resaw it to 5/16" or 3/8" and plane or
thickness sand to 1/4". Or resaw to 3/16" or 1/4" to get 1/8".
If you don't have the tools needed, buy thin lumber on line. I did a
quick Google and found several places. Among them:
http://www.kencraftstore.com/woods/soft_maple.htm
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On 1/9/11 10:30 AM, Leon wrote:
> "Josepi"<[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
>>
>> I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must
>> come
>> in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to
>> have
>> the stripes on the top edge for this.
>>
>> TIA
>>
>>
>
> Go to Home Depot and buy an inexpensive 2" slat Venitian blind.
> Disassemble.
>
Idea on the month.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/9/11 3:46 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> I picked up some 1/8 red oak stock the other day in home depot.
> I didn't have any red oak , and needed a small amount, and decided it
> would do.
>
You reminded me.... I have seen that bin as well.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Speaking as a Cheap Bastard (tm) I have made many drawer cases and
dividers from stock that was cannabalized from old dressers and other
furniture left at the curb on bulk trash pickup day. I'm not above pulling
the drawers out and leaving the carcase on the curb, then cutting the
sides, bottom, & back out for my stockpile when I get home. Many old
pieces used oak or oak strip glueups for the drawer sides and backs.
--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
Thanx. I just think that 3/4 would be a little thicker (in looks) than I
wanted for cutlery dividers and other drawer things. Sometimes it's just a
matter of getting used to the thickness and then it looks normal again...LOL
I wondered about hobby shops for building kits. I know they use balsa and
one other wood that is fairly strong. Sealed it may do the job...expensive
probably.
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I use poplar and I rip it down from 3/4" stock so you end up with
quartersawn dividers. Easy on the tools and hardly ever have any that
bow. If I need dividers shorter than 3/4" then I usually rip them
down after the fact but nothing stopping you from planing the stock
down first if you need to. If I needed something taller then I would
use 8/4 poplar.
-Kevin
On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 22:43:26 -0500, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
Thanx.
I wondered about maple but I have had a lot of warping with maple in the
past. Perhaps in thinner material for dividers it would suit.
The other problem is finding a supply of 3/8 - 1/2" stock.
Make what myself? I was asking what the wood was not how to make them....LOL
I have produced a couple of dozen furniture projects over the last 45 years,
framed and finished my house (almost) and many decks and built many computer
and electronic projects.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:3fad215e-2bd7-464e-a397-c7d92045ce75@z26g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
You'll need to make this yourself. What machines do you have?
On Jan 8, 4:28 pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
>
> I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must
> come
> in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to
> have
> the stripes on the top edge for this.
>
> TIA
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anybody know what a good wood for drawers dividers is?
>
> I am looking for that white stuff that appears to be quite stable, must
> come
> in about 1/8" thickness. I thought about Baltic Birch but prefer not to
> have
> the stripes on the top edge for this.
Poplar is one of the most stable easy working, fine grained wood. It is
what I would use. It also is easy to finish, and is closed grained, so it
finishes slick and smooth, easily.
Basswood works almost as easy, and has good finishing grain also, but is a
bit softer.
--
Jim in NC