ss

samson

06/10/2007 6:16 PM

Leigh Dovetail Question

For those of you who have used a Leigh dovetail
jig:

If I get a 12 inch dovetail jig, can I slide the
piece over, line up, and cut dovetails on a piece
longer than 12 inches?

I'm debating whether I need to spend the extra 60 bucks
to move to an 18 inch dovetail jig.

Thanks,

S.


This topic has 10 replies

Cc

"Charley"

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

06/10/2007 9:38 PM

The only way to cut dovetails on a board that is wider than what fits in the
12" Leigh jig is to cut the board into 2 narrower pieces so each half will
fit in the jig, then dovetail these pieces, and then edge glue them back
together. It's not easy, but it can be done. You will need to make matching
pieces with the same offsets to get everything to fit together and this can
be quite difficult, but not impossible. It's much better to spend a few
extra bucks and get a wider dovetail jig.

Charley
(a D4R owner)


"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For those of you who have used a Leigh dovetail
> jig:
>
> If I get a 12 inch dovetail jig, can I slide the
> piece over, line up, and cut dovetails on a piece
> longer than 12 inches?
>
> I'm debating whether I need to spend the extra 60 bucks
> to move to an 18 inch dovetail jig.
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.

BA

B A R R Y

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

07/10/2007 7:12 AM

On Sat, 6 Oct 2007 23:40:42 -0500, samson <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>That's kind of a bummer. I had just enough money to get a
>12" Leigh dovetail jig and a Dewalt compound miter saw. I'd
>hate to choose between the two.

Why? Think of context...

If you make lots of fine furniture, the DT jig will be an awesome
acquisition. When making furniture, I do cross cutting that counts on
my tablesaw.

My shop CMS can be a $39 HF unit, as all it does is shorten rough
boards. My good SCMS has been banished to a shelf near the door (for
site work), as I rough cut with a cordless circular or hand saw that
live at the stock rack. Long parts are cut with cheap, shop made
sleds that can incorporate simple hold downs and counter balancing.
Sleds also allow very accurate stop blocking for identical parts.

On the other hand, if you're doing lots of trim or things like window
boxes and Adirondack chairs, or site work, the DT jig will gather
dust most of the time, and a good CMS or SCMS will get a workout.

A big plus for a 24" DT jig that's often missed is dual setups. When
drawers have some variation of half blinds in front and through DT's
in back (common), you can have the left and right setups installed at
the same time. It saves time, but most importantly, dual setups can
cut the error rate in a big way. This becomes very apparent when
making drawers that are different sizes.

On last thought... Don't leave out factory reconditioned miter saws.
Almost all of my handheld and portable power tools, including my SCMS,
are recons, and I've yet to be disappointed. Maybe you can still get
both...

Happy deciding! <G>


---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

Dd

"Dave"

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

06/10/2007 10:58 PM

Save up some more money and but the D4 24 inch one.








"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> For those of you who have used a Leigh dovetail
>> jig:
>>
>> If I get a 12 inch dovetail jig, can I slide the
>> piece over, line up, and cut dovetails on a piece
>> longer than 12 inches?
>>
>> I'm debating whether I need to spend the extra 60 bucks
>> to move to an 18 inch dovetail jig.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> S.
>
> Nope, the board has to fit between the two clamping threaded rods.
> I would say go as big as you can, it makes it an easier job of doing
> symmetrical boxes when there will be 2 or more side my side with through
> DT's.
>

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

07/10/2007 8:38 AM


"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> That's kind of a bummer. I had just enough money to get a
> 12" Leigh dovetail jig and a Dewalt compound miter saw. I'd
> hate to choose between the two.
>
> S.

The bigger bummer, spending money on a jig that is a PIA to use because it
is too small.

Be responsible, choose one or the other, save for the other.

ss

samson

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

06/10/2007 11:40 PM

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> > For those of you who have used a Leigh dovetail
> > jig:
> >
> > If I get a 12 inch dovetail jig, can I slide the
> > piece over, line up, and cut dovetails on a piece
> > longer than 12 inches?
> >
> > I'm debating whether I need to spend the extra 60 bucks
> > to move to an 18 inch dovetail jig.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > S.
>
> Sorry to say that that won't work...the jig will take 12" wide stock, no
> more.
>
> Well, I suppose that you may have a 1/4" or so one way or the other, but not
> 6".
>
> My Super24 will hold about 24.100"...just short of an 1/8" over
> nominal...but that takes removng the side stop from one side.
>
> Mike

That's kind of a bummer. I had just enough money to get a
12" Leigh dovetail jig and a Dewalt compound miter saw. I'd
hate to choose between the two.

S.

ss

samson

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

07/10/2007 9:09 AM

In article <[email protected]>, removespamlcb11211
@swbell.net says...
>
> "samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > That's kind of a bummer. I had just enough money to get a
> > 12" Leigh dovetail jig and a Dewalt compound miter saw. I'd
> > hate to choose between the two.
> >
> > S.
>
> The bigger bummer, spending money on a jig that is a PIA to use because it
> is too small.
>
> Be responsible, choose one or the other, save for the other.
>
>
>
Barry and Leon, that's good advise. Thanks.

S.

TD

"The Davenport's"

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

06/10/2007 6:39 PM

> For those of you who have used a Leigh dovetail
> jig:
>
> If I get a 12 inch dovetail jig, can I slide the
> piece over, line up, and cut dovetails on a piece
> longer than 12 inches?
>
> I'm debating whether I need to spend the extra 60 bucks
> to move to an 18 inch dovetail jig.
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.

Sorry to say that that won't work...the jig will take 12" wide stock, no
more.

Well, I suppose that you may have a 1/4" or so one way or the other, but not
6".

My Super24 will hold about 24.100"...just short of an 1/8" over
nominal...but that takes removng the side stop from one side.

Mike

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

07/10/2007 10:50 PM


"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>>
> Barry and Leon, that's good advise. Thanks.
>
> S.

It becomes easier to see the obvious. ;~) after 30 or so years of buying
tools and equipment.

BA

B A R R Y

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

07/10/2007 3:30 PM

On Sun, 7 Oct 2007 09:09:25 -0500, samson <[email protected]> wrote:

>Barry and Leon, that's good advise. Thanks.

We've all been there, and we'll all go there again. <G>

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to samson on 06/10/2007 6:16 PM

06/10/2007 8:44 PM


"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For those of you who have used a Leigh dovetail
> jig:
>
> If I get a 12 inch dovetail jig, can I slide the
> piece over, line up, and cut dovetails on a piece
> longer than 12 inches?
>
> I'm debating whether I need to spend the extra 60 bucks
> to move to an 18 inch dovetail jig.
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.

Nope, the board has to fit between the two clamping threaded rods.
I would say go as big as you can, it makes it an easier job of doing
symmetrical boxes when there will be 2 or more side my side with through
DT's.


You’ve reached the end of replies