Novice could use some advice.

On Sun, 29 Aug 2004 11:47:32 GMT, "LI Shooting Center"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm building a glass door for a display cabinet. The
>overall size will be 57" high by 34" wide using 1X4
>pine for the rails and stiles. I milled the 4 pieces
>using my raised panel cutters.
>
>Now I'm thinking... No way will these glued joints
>be strong enough to support the weight of this door
>once the glass is installed.
>
>I guess my question is, "What's the proper way to
>reinforce these joints?"
>
>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Signed...
>In over my head
>

Motise and tenon. If you've already got the rails and stiles cut,
then you could go back at them and make a mortise in each and then
make a loose tenon.

"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>
> >
> > "LI Shooting Center" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> I'm building a glass door for a display cabinet. The
> >> overall size will be 57" high by 34" wide using 1X4
> >> pine for the rails and stiles. I milled the 4 pieces
> >> using my raised panel cutters.
> >>
> >> Now I'm thinking... No way will these glued joints
> >> be strong enough to support the weight of this door
> >> once the glass is installed.
> >>
> >> I guess my question is, "What's the proper way to
> >> reinforce these joints?"
> >>
> >
> > You don't tell us what thickness of glass you'll be using. 1/8th inch
> > glass
> > would be fine in joints well glued and clamped up. Use a good glue like
> > Tightbond or a similar product and your joint will be stronger than the
> > wood itself.
>
> He didn't say what kind of joint he's using. If one side is end-grain
then
> it's not going to be "stronger than the wood itself" with Titebond.
>

Ahhhh... you're absolutely correct and I'm caught with my pants down. Given
that he did say he used his raised panel cutter, I'd say he likely does have
an end grain joint. All the same, I believe he will enjoy a strong enough
joint if well glued and clamped, assuming a light weight pane of glass.
--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:

>
> "LI Shooting Center" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm building a glass door for a display cabinet. The
>> overall size will be 57" high by 34" wide using 1X4
>> pine for the rails and stiles. I milled the 4 pieces
>> using my raised panel cutters.
>>
>> Now I'm thinking... No way will these glued joints
>> be strong enough to support the weight of this door
>> once the glass is installed.
>>
>> I guess my question is, "What's the proper way to
>> reinforce these joints?"
>>
>
> You don't tell us what thickness of glass you'll be using. 1/8th inch
> glass
> would be fine in joints well glued and clamped up. Use a good glue like
> Tightbond or a similar product and your joint will be stronger than the
> wood itself.

He didn't say what kind of joint he's using. If one side is end-grain then
it's not going to be "stronger than the wood itself" with Titebond.

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"LI Shooting Center" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building a glass door for a display cabinet. The
> overall size will be 57" high by 34" wide using 1X4
> pine for the rails and stiles. I milled the 4 pieces
> using my raised panel cutters.
>
> Now I'm thinking... No way will these glued joints
> be strong enough to support the weight of this door
> once the glass is installed.
>
> I guess my question is, "What's the proper way to
> reinforce these joints?"
>

You don't tell us what thickness of glass you'll be using. 1/8th inch glass
would be fine in joints well glued and clamped up. Use a good glue like
Tightbond or a similar product and your joint will be stronger than the wood
itself.
--

-Mike-
[email protected]