I'm renovating an old timber frame barn for my workshop, and put in a
sliding door on an overhead track. As I came to realize, it is hard
to seal up against the wind and weather. Searching through this
group, I found one suggestion from Charlie Self:
>I built an 8' x 4' double door set (total 8' x 8') for my shop. Used
a very
>heavy Stanley sliding door hardware set. When complete--jeeez, about
half the
>shop is at that stage--it will feature rubber flaps about 5-6" wide
that ride
>on door surfaces from the jambs (or, underneath, from the door onto
the
>siding). These flaps are nothing more than heavy chunks of roll
(commercial
>sheet) roofing material. Good seal, not perfect.
One problem inherent in anything pushing out on the door is that it is
free to pivot, and even though it's relatively heavy, it actually
swings out at the bottom fairly easily.
I wonder how this worked out, and if anyone has tried any other
approach. The door itself is shiplap pine with not much insulating
value -- I'm trying to think of something that could go on the inside
(it is only 4' wide).
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Richard Crane
[email protected] (Richard) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm renovating an old timber frame barn for my workshop, and put in a
> sliding door on an overhead track. As I came to realize, it is hard
> to seal up against the wind and weather. Searching through this
> group, I found one suggestion from Charlie Self:
>
> >I built an 8' x 4' double door set (total 8' x 8') for my shop. Used
> a very
> >heavy Stanley sliding door hardware set. When complete--jeeez, about
> half the
> >shop is at that stage--it will feature rubber flaps about 5-6" wide
> that ride
> >on door surfaces from the jambs (or, underneath, from the door onto
> the
> >siding). These flaps are nothing more than heavy chunks of roll
> (commercial
> >sheet) roofing material. Good seal, not perfect.
>
> One problem inherent in anything pushing out on the door is that it is
> free to pivot, and even though it's relatively heavy, it actually
> swings out at the bottom fairly easily.
> I wonder how this worked out, and if anyone has tried any other
> approach. The door itself is shiplap pine with not much insulating
> value -- I'm trying to think of something that could go on the inside
> (it is only 4' wide).
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Richard Crane
You might want to check out something like this.
http://www.action-ind.com/Retail/Weatherseals/std_%20ret_ins.htm
Brush seals of this type will puts very little pressure on the door.
Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com
Will these doors just be used when you need to get big stuff in and out of
the shop or will you need to use them every time you go in and out? If the
former I would consider getting a couple of small turnbuckles with a hook on
one end and rigging them up near the bottom of the door so that you can
"dog" the door down against whatever weather-stripping you use. If the fit
between the door and the wall is good you might be able to use the
weather-stripping designed for around garage doors. If the sliding doors
will be your only door into the shop then I would consider adding a regular
door (you can put it within the sliding door if you want to). Sliding doors
are great for ventilation and for making a big opening but they a lot more
work to open and close.
"Richard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm renovating an old timber frame barn for my workshop, and put in a
> sliding door on an overhead track. As I came to realize, it is hard
> to seal up against the wind and weather. Searching through this
> group, I found one suggestion from Charlie Self:
>
>>I built an 8' x 4' double door set (total 8' x 8') for my shop. Used
> a very
>>heavy Stanley sliding door hardware set. When complete--jeeez, about
> half the
>>shop is at that stage--it will feature rubber flaps about 5-6" wide
> that ride
>>on door surfaces from the jambs (or, underneath, from the door onto
> the
>>siding). These flaps are nothing more than heavy chunks of roll
> (commercial
>>sheet) roofing material. Good seal, not perfect.
>
> One problem inherent in anything pushing out on the door is that it is
> free to pivot, and even though it's relatively heavy, it actually
> swings out at the bottom fairly easily.
> I wonder how this worked out, and if anyone has tried any other
> approach. The door itself is shiplap pine with not much insulating
> value -- I'm trying to think of something that could go on the inside
> (it is only 4' wide).
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Richard Crane