I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together,
mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove
the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove
excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood fibers.
Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining
afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
-TIA
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> And while I'm at it..... when clamping two pieces together..... should it
> be.... just snug.... tight..... really tight...... damn tight!
>
>
Tight enough to close any gaps but not so tight as to squeeze out all of the glue.
--
Al Reid
How will I know when I get there...
If I don't know where I'm going?
If you are able to do the staining before you glue up, you're ahead of the
game. Sometimes I have used painter's masking tape to cover areas subject to
glue overflow and that helps. It's not perfect, but better than getting glue in
the wood that then does not allow for proper staining. In some cases the
"marker type" pens sold at most paint supply dealers can be used to cover up
small areas where glue shows. GCS
GCS..... I never thought about staining prior to gluing.... It just might
work for this particular project.
Thanks for the info.
"RESPITE95" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you are able to do the staining before you glue up, you're ahead of the
> game. Sometimes I have used painter's masking tape to cover areas subject
to
> glue overflow and that helps. It's not perfect, but better than getting
glue in
> the wood that then does not allow for proper staining. In some cases the
> "marker type" pens sold at most paint supply dealers can be used to cover
up
> small areas where glue shows. GCS
"JAW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Nails should never be in any cabinet where glue could be used.
Well I see your point - but there are plenty of places where a brad would be
appropriate in a piece of furniture.
Opinion. I don't believe they _all_ stink as my TI claimed, but his does
have an elitist reek about it.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:rUibd.5968$q%[email protected]...
>
> "JAW" Still not quite awake, blurted
>
>
>
> > Nails should never be in any cabinet where glue could be used.
>
> That is just wrong. Are you going to glue in 1/4 round behind a pane of
> glass in a cabinet door. Sure you could glue the 1/4 round behind the
glass
> and rebuild the door if the glass gets broken.
>
>
What I do when I really want to make sure no glue shows it put
painters tape on the joining edges, apply the glue, the runoff glue
will get on the tape and some wood area, wait for the glue to bead,
and then use a scraper/razor to remove it, then remove the tape!
Alittle extra work, but no glue marks!
~Kam (^8*
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together,
> mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove
> the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove
> excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood fibers.
> Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining
> afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
> -TIA
Thanks to all..... I will follow all of your advice and wipe completely with
a "wet" rag and then follow up with a dry rag.......
-Appreciate It!
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together,
> mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove
> the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove
> excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood
fibers.
> Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining
> afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
> -TIA
>
>
And while I'm at it..... when clamping two pieces together..... should it
be.... just snug.... tight..... really tight...... damn tight!
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together,
> mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove
> the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove
> excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood
fibers.
> Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining
> afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
> -TIA
>
>
patrick conroy woke up and had the following to say....:
> On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 12:11:30 -0500, "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Yeah. I've noticed on recent programs that Norm is even backing off on
>>glue
>>use recommendations. Maybe Delta cut his budget.
>
> :) Well Delta is marketing a brad nailer now...
Nails should never be in any cabinet where glue could be used.
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 14:32:15 GMT, mac davis <[email protected]>
wrote:
>my brother uses them in stead of clamps..
So why is he called Abrams not Davis ?
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 05:57:02 GMT, mac davis <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 09:03:55 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together,
>>mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove
>>the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove
>>excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood fibers.
>>Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining
>>afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
My fix: I DON'T STAIN.
>I've been getting good results with TB III by just following their
>instructions... I keep a roll of shop towels over the bench and pull
>one down and get it damp before gluing..
>Also, after reading about it here, I got a few rolls of blue 3M
>masking tape and use it to "mask" the edges of the glue joint... saves
>a LOT of hassle!
Masking is the best bet by far. And keep the damp towels for your
fingers, not the wood. Use a chisel or cabinet scraper on
semi-hardened glue squeezout half an hour after the glueup. It
comes right off and leaves no trace.
-------------------------------------------
Stain and Poly are their own punishment
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
======================================================
.... thanks for the dry clamp first idea.
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 11:16:16 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >And while I'm at it..... when clamping two pieces together..... should it
> >be.... just snug.... tight..... really tight...... damn tight!
> >
> I used to squeeze the sh*t out of everything... I'm surprised that
> there was any glue left in the joint!
>
> I learned here that you dry clamp things first... it IS a PITA, but
> many things that you do in a hobby are.. lol
> If it doesn't dry clamp square and tight with gentle clamping, glue
> will NOT make it fit better...
>
>
>
> "Don't drink and park. Accidents cause people"
>
>
>
> >
> >"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood
together,
> >> mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to
remove
> >> the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to
remove
> >> excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood
> >fibers.
> >> Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any
staining
> >> afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
> >> -TIA
> >>
> >>
> >
>
buck woke up at Thursday 14 October 2004 08:44 and had the following to
say....:
> .... thanks for the dry clamp first idea.
>
>
> "mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 11:16:16 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >And while I'm at it..... when clamping two pieces together..... should
>> >it be.... just snug.... tight..... really tight...... damn tight!
>> >
>> I used to squeeze the sh*t out of everything... I'm surprised that
>> there was any glue left in the joint!
>>
>> I learned here that you dry clamp things first... it IS a PITA, but
>> many things that you do in a hobby are.. lol
>> If it doesn't dry clamp square and tight with gentle clamping, glue
>> will NOT make it fit better...
>>
>>
>>
>> "Don't drink and park. Accidents cause people"
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> >"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >news:[email protected]...
>> >> I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood
> together,
>> >> mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to
> remove
>> >> the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to
> remove
>> >> excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood
>> >fibers.
>> >> Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any
> staining
>> >> afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
>> >> -TIA
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>>
I agree with the dry clamp idea. This also potentially points out any design
flaws before you apply glue.
JAW
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 06:00:03 GMT, mac davis <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>or the *#!%# cat brushes against your ankle... arggggggggggg....
>
> Ayone know a good way to remove hide glue smears from cat noses ?
>
Herd them elsewhere?
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 12:40:06 GMT, JAW <[email protected]> wrote:
>buck woke up at Thursday 14 October 2004 08:44 and had the following to
>say....:
>
>> .... thanks for the dry clamp first idea.
>>
>>
>> "mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 11:16:16 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> >And while I'm at it..... when clamping two pieces together..... should
>>> >it be.... just snug.... tight..... really tight...... damn tight!
>>> >
>>> I used to squeeze the sh*t out of everything... I'm surprised that
>>> there was any glue left in the joint!
>>>
>>> I learned here that you dry clamp things first... it IS a PITA, but
>>> many things that you do in a hobby are.. lol
>>> If it doesn't dry clamp square and tight with gentle clamping, glue
>>> will NOT make it fit better...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "Don't drink and park. Accidents cause people"
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> >
>>> >"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> >news:[email protected]...
>>> >> I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood
>> together,
>>> >> mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to
>> remove
>>> >> the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to
>> remove
>>> >> excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood
>>> >fibers.
>>> >> Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any
>> staining
>>> >> afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
>>> >> -TIA
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>>
>I agree with the dry clamp idea. This also potentially points out any design
>flaws before you apply glue.
>
>JAW
well, that was kind of my point, JAW.. I guess I was a bit too
subtle..
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together,
> mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove
> the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove
> excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood
> fibers.
> Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining
> afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
> -TIA
I have always use a very wet paper towel to get rid of squeeze out. Wipe
several times turning the rag. Never have I ever had a problem with glue
getting into the pores or grain of the wood. The wet rag will raise the
grain but I very seldom sand before gluing. If you look at the directions
on the Titebond III bottle you will find that the same technique is
suggested.
MY TWO CENTS WORTH - What you have heard, including the previous post, is
true to an extent. However, I usually do not stain prior to gluing,
especially with slabs, table tops, etc.
I usually wipe THOROUGHLY with a wet rag (wet, not just damp). Idea is to
get the surface around the joint good and wet, dilute the glue and get it
off of the project. Then follow with a dry rag to remove the moisture and
diluted glue. Yes, this will raise grain on some woods but not much if done
quickly.
Invariably you will have some additional glue come up during the drying
process - let that set and scrape it off gingerly with a sharp chisel.
Occasionally if I do not get a lot of runout from the joint, I just let it
set and scrape. Also, I am usually inclined to just scrape the bottom of a
slab glue up because the glue is more likely to form drops than pool.
Another thing to keep in mind is cover your joined surfaces with glue but
don't overglue. The jury is always out on applying glue to both surfaces,
but good coverage of one surface is probably enough. Then clamp the pieces
together until they are joined and quit tightening the clamps. Over
clamping reduces the glue in your joint and adds to the mess.
All of this amounts to glue philosophy that usually gets modified when you
are up to your wrists in glue and the phone rings.
buck wrote:
> And while I'm at it..... when clamping two pieces together..... should it
> be.... just snug.... tight..... really tight...... damn tight!
It should be just snug enogh to close the joint. If you have to use
clamps to force the joint, then you need to take another look at the
joinery.
When I glue up panels, I know I got the pressure right if the clamps
are just barely loose when the piece has dried.
As for the original question -- I stopped wiping glue off with a
wet/damp/sopping rag. If you let it set for 15-20 minutes, you can peel
it right off with a plastic bread-bag tab.
Chuck Vance
Masking tape over the areas the glue will squeeze out onto, then just
remove the tape
John
On 13 Oct 2004 15:17:00 GMT, [email protected] (RESPITE95) wrote:
>If you are able to do the staining before you glue up, you're ahead of the
>game. Sometimes I have used painter's masking tape to cover areas subject to
>glue overflow and that helps. It's not perfect, but better than getting glue in
>the wood that then does not allow for proper staining. In some cases the
>"marker type" pens sold at most paint supply dealers can be used to cover up
>small areas where glue shows. GCS
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 05:57:02 GMT, mac davis <[email protected]>
> calmly ranted:
>
> >On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 09:03:55 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
> >wrote:
> >
> >>I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together,
> >>mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove
> >>the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove
> >>excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood fibers.
> >>Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining
> >>afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
>
I had read that polyurethane glue would accept stain and not leave a
white mark. I used Titebond poly glue. After drying, I scraped the
squeeze out & sanded flush. While it's not as bad as yellow glue, it
still left a telltale light colored area under my dark danish oil.
I'm curious what experience others have had with polyurethane glue.
Chris
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 06:00:03 GMT, mac davis <[email protected]>
wrote:
>or the *#!%# cat brushes against your ankle... arggggggggggg....
Ayone know a good way to remove hide glue smears from cat noses ?
On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 10:50:33 -0500, "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>true to an extent. However, I usually do not stain prior to gluing,
>especially with slabs, table tops, etc.
I often finish things that the panels in a raised panel door before
assembly. YMMV
>
>don't overglue. The jury is always out on applying glue to both surfaces,
>but good coverage of one surface is probably enough. Then clamp the pieces
I'm there. I started off gluing up like Norm... Rivulets dripping
down. I've since backed way off - a light but thorough coating that
results in minimal squeeze out during clamping. I'm no glue chemist
by any stretch, nor have I done "long term hold" tests - but so far
I'm happy with this lighter approach.
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> And while I'm at it..... when clamping two pieces together..... should it
> be.... just snug.... tight..... really tight...... damn tight!
Snug. Too tight simply leaves imprints in your wood where the clamp was
located. You want to see squeeze out and that is plenty.
On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 11:16:16 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>And while I'm at it..... when clamping two pieces together..... should it
>be.... just snug.... tight..... really tight...... damn tight!
>
I used to squeeze the sh*t out of everything... I'm surprised that
there was any glue left in the joint!
I learned here that you dry clamp things first... it IS a PITA, but
many things that you do in a hobby are.. lol
If it doesn't dry clamp square and tight with gentle clamping, glue
will NOT make it fit better...
"Don't drink and park. Accidents cause people"
>
>"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together,
>> mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove
>> the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove
>> excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood
>fibers.
>> Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining
>> afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
>> -TIA
>>
>>
>
On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 12:11:30 -0500, "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Yeah. I've noticed on recent programs that Norm is even backing off on glue
>use recommendations. Maybe Delta cut his budget.
:) Well Delta is marketing a brad nailer now...
On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 10:50:33 -0500, "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote:
>MY TWO CENTS WORTH - What you have heard, including the previous post, is
>true to an extent. However, I usually do not stain prior to gluing,
>especially with slabs, table tops, etc.
>
>I usually wipe THOROUGHLY with a wet rag (wet, not just damp). Idea is to
>get the surface around the joint good and wet, dilute the glue and get it
>off of the project. Then follow with a dry rag to remove the moisture and
>diluted glue. Yes, this will raise grain on some woods but not much if done
>quickly.
>
>Invariably you will have some additional glue come up during the drying
>process - let that set and scrape it off gingerly with a sharp chisel.
>Occasionally if I do not get a lot of runout from the joint, I just let it
>set and scrape. Also, I am usually inclined to just scrape the bottom of a
>slab glue up because the glue is more likely to form drops than pool.
>
>Another thing to keep in mind is cover your joined surfaces with glue but
>don't overglue. The jury is always out on applying glue to both surfaces,
>but good coverage of one surface is probably enough. Then clamp the pieces
>together until they are joined and quit tightening the clamps. Over
>clamping reduces the glue in your joint and adds to the mess.
>
>All of this amounts to glue philosophy that usually gets modified when you
>are up to your wrists in glue and the phone rings.
>
or the *#!%# cat brushes against your ankle... arggggggggggg....
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 07:05:22 GMT, "patrick conroy"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"JAW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> Nails should never be in any cabinet where glue could be used.
>
>Well I see your point - but there are plenty of places where a brad would be
>appropriate in a piece of furniture.
>
my brother uses them in stead of clamps.. I'd rather clamp then fill
holes later, but his way is faster both in the process and the time
you can go to the next step of the project..
On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 09:03:55 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together,
>mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove
>the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove
>excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood fibers.
>Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining
>afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
>-TIA
>
I've been getting good results with TB III by just following their
instructions... I keep a roll of shop towels over the bench and pull
one down and get it damp before gluing..
Also, after reading about it here, I got a few rolls of blue 3M
masking tape and use it to "mask" the edges of the glue joint... saves
a LOT of hassle!
On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 13:03:46 +0100, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 14:32:15 GMT, mac davis <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>my brother uses them in stead of clamps..
>
>So why is he called Abrams not Davis ?
huh? I missed something there, Andy... Abrams??
On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 13:04:27 +0100, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 06:00:03 GMT, mac davis <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>or the *#!%# cat brushes against your ankle... arggggggggggg....
>
>Ayone know a good way to remove hide glue smears from cat noses ?
problem usually is how to remove your shoe from a cats butt!!