I am probably making too much out of this, but it is my first time and all
that.
I am gluing up a turning block; sandwiching spalted maple between wenge.
What glue to use? Is PVA adequate, or polyurethane, or epoxy?
Yesterday I turned a plate that was simply taped onto the faceplate; so I
expect PVA will do fine, but I would rather benefit from other's experience
than my own.
Toller wrote:
> I am probably making too much out of this, but it is my first time and all
> that.
>
> I am gluing up a turning block; sandwiching spalted maple between wenge.
> What glue to use? Is PVA adequate, or polyurethane, or epoxy?
>
> Yesterday I turned a plate that was simply taped onto the faceplate; so I
> expect PVA will do fine, but I would rather benefit from other's experience
> than my own.
You're right, you're making too much of it. PVA is stronger than the
wood itself, especially when you have such a large glued surface.
DonkeyHody
"We should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom
that is in it - and stop there; lest we be like the cat that sits down
on a hot stove-lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove-lid
again---and that is well; but also she will never sit down on a cold
one anymore." - Mark Twain
DonkeyHody wrote:
> Toller wrote:
> > I am probably making too much out of this, but it is my first time and all
> > that.
> >
> > I am gluing up a turning block; sandwiching spalted maple between wenge.
> > What glue to use? Is PVA adequate, or polyurethane, or epoxy?
> >
> > Yesterday I turned a plate that was simply taped onto the faceplate; so I
> > expect PVA will do fine, but I would rather benefit from other's experience
> > than my own.
>
> You're right, you're making too much of it. PVA is stronger than the
> wood itself, especially when you have such a large glued surface.
>
Sorry, when I first answered I failed to recognize that the wenge is
the source of your worry. I think that given the large glue area,
you'll be fine if you plane or sand immediately before gluing.
DonkeyHody
"The cheapest things in life are free."
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am probably making too much out of this, but it is my first time and all
> that.
>
> I am gluing up a turning block; sandwiching spalted maple between wenge.
> What glue to use? Is PVA adequate, or polyurethane, or epoxy?
[...]
As others said PVA is fine ... but...
between the very stable wenge and the less stable maple you may get some
creeping, and if you end up with a fine reflective finish you may have a
slight glue line. Epoxy or cascamite would be better for that reason, but
they may blunt your turning tools a bit more.
Tim w
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> >
> I did a search and found cascamite is an English name for
Urea-Formaldehyde
> glue; but I don't find that for sale. Is it not used in the US?
>
Er, sorry, that is correct. I don't know if it is used in the US. It's a
white powder, mixed with water and sets rock hard. Has been used afaik for
50yrs for boat building, airframes, joinery, but probably old-fashioned now.
tim W
In article <[email protected]>, Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote:
>PVA is fine- but one thing you need to keep in mind is that it's going
>to need to fully cure. The first time I did this, I let it sit for
>about an hour, and it delaminated on the lathe. Better to let it sit
>with the clamps on for more like 24 hours.
"Do not stress joints for 24 hours." [instructions on the back of the Titebond
II bottle]
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 23:10:33 GMT, "Tim W"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I am probably making too much out of this, but it is my first time and all
>> that.
>>
>> I am gluing up a turning block; sandwiching spalted maple between wenge.
>> What glue to use? Is PVA adequate, or polyurethane, or epoxy?
>[...]
>
>As others said PVA is fine ... but...
>between the very stable wenge and the less stable maple you may get some
>creeping, and if you end up with a fine reflective finish you may have a
>slight glue line. Epoxy or cascamite would be better for that reason, but
>they may blunt your turning tools a bit more.
You'll almost certainly get a very fine glue line- but given the huge
color difference between maple and wenge, it won't be worth noting- at
least IMO.
"Tim W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I am probably making too much out of this, but it is my first time and
>> all
>> that.
>>
>> I am gluing up a turning block; sandwiching spalted maple between wenge.
>> What glue to use? Is PVA adequate, or polyurethane, or epoxy?
> [...]
>
> As others said PVA is fine ... but...
> between the very stable wenge and the less stable maple you may get some
> creeping, and if you end up with a fine reflective finish you may have a
> slight glue line. Epoxy or cascamite would be better for that reason, but
> they may blunt your turning tools a bit more.
>
I did a search and found cascamite is an English name for Urea-Formaldehyde
glue; but I don't find that for sale. Is it not used in the US?
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Tim W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I am probably making too much out of this, but it is my first time and
>>> all
>>> that.
>>>
>>> I am gluing up a turning block; sandwiching spalted maple between wenge.
>>> What glue to use? Is PVA adequate, or polyurethane, or epoxy?
>> [...]
>>
>> As others said PVA is fine ... but...
>> between the very stable wenge and the less stable maple you may get some
>> creeping, and if you end up with a fine reflective finish you may have a
>> slight glue line. Epoxy or cascamite would be better for that reason, but
>> they may blunt your turning tools a bit more.
>>
> I did a search and found cascamite is an English name for
> Urea-Formaldehyde glue; but I don't find that for sale. Is it not used in
> the US?
Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue.
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 15:22:32 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>PVA is fine- but one thing you need to keep in mind is that it's going
>>to need to fully cure. The first time I did this, I let it sit for
>>about an hour, and it delaminated on the lathe. Better to let it sit
>>with the clamps on for more like 24 hours.
>
>"Do not stress joints for 24 hours." [instructions on the back of the Titebond
>II bottle]
Yeah, but I was in a rush to play with my new toy, and I didn't have
any firewood or suitable branches around. Furniture is usually all
right to continue with after the glue has tacked, so I was foolishly
using that rule-of-thumb. Hence, the warning/reminder.
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 01:09:02 GMT, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am probably making too much out of this, but it is my first time and all
>that.
>
>I am gluing up a turning block; sandwiching spalted maple between wenge.
>What glue to use? Is PVA adequate, or polyurethane, or epoxy?
>
>Yesterday I turned a plate that was simply taped onto the faceplate; so I
>expect PVA will do fine, but I would rather benefit from other's experience
>than my own.
>
PVA is fine- but one thing you need to keep in mind is that it's going
to need to fully cure. The first time I did this, I let it sit for
about an hour, and it delaminated on the lathe. Better to let it sit
with the clamps on for more like 24 hours.