Shop A/C

I cheat, I work as a HVAC tech.

Living in North Dakota I wanted heat first, AC second. I installed a
residential horizontal furnace up on the ceiling near the overhead door
which otherwise was wasted space. I added a new "A" coil at that time. I
waited and scrounged around and eventually came up with a good condensing
unit for free. The line set was scraps from work. I had a window unit I had
gotten for free, and sold it for $100 to offset the few components I bought,
but I have maybe $150 in the AC setup. It is probably not up to currant
efficiency ratings, but I really use the AC maybe two weeks a year so I
don't worry about the cost of operation.
I installed an Air Bear air filter,
http://www.trioninc.com/images/pdf/Supreme.pdf on the return. We sell allot
of these filters, and service many places the use them so I get slightly
used ones that customers wanted changed out that would hit the garbage
otherwise. They do a great job of filtering and the internals of my furnace
and AC stays clean. If you get allot of time in your shop you may have to
change them monthly. I get maybe 3 months on a filter. If your shop is as
well insulated as you say 1-1/2 tons should more more than adequate. I have
a 900 square foot shop and the 1-1/2 ton AC I put in is a bit large.

Mini splits are also an option, some off brands exist that are good units.
Sanyo is probably the best, but expensive.
Do you know any residential techs? You may come up with a used setup good
enough for the shop.

On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 13:59:13 -0700, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]>
wrote:

>[email protected] wrote:
>
>> On Jul 30, 12:31 am, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> > Neil Brooks wrote:
>>>
>>> >> Equally, if not MORE important, is not to OVER-size the unit.  It will
>>> >> short-cycle, and you'll be in a nice, cool shop that's brutally humid.
>>>
>>> >> An HVAC contractor can do the calc's for you.  They just need a bunch
>>> >> of info about construction, orientation, sun exposure, etc.
>>>
>>> > Excellent advice, though for most window units in a space as described,
>>> > it's
>>> > probably not so much of a threat.  Though, you point remains.  It would
>>> > be foolish to purchase an 18,000 btu unit where a 10,000 btu was really
>>> > called for.
>>>
>>> >> I'd pay somebody, or get demo software, or ... in some other way to
>>> >> get Manual J load calcs done, for YOUR space.
>>>
>>> > Don't know as I'd go that far.  Simple calculations usually work pretty
>>> > well
>>> > for windo air conditioners.  An old rule of thumb was sq footage x 20
>>> > gives
>>> > a reasonable approximation for cooling needs.  Not horribly
>>> > scientifice, but close enough for the task at hand.
>>>
>>> A bit more precise is the rule of thumb: 6 BTU/cubic foot -- that will
>>> cover his 10 foot ceilings.
>>
>> Your numbers aren't adding up.
>>
>> - 20 BTU/ft^2 = 6 BTU/ft^3 means that the ceilings are only 40". ;-)
>>
>> - At 20 BTU/ft^2, my house (2600ft^2) would need 4.3T. I have 6T (2.5
>> + 3.5), so that seems reasonable. 6 BTU/ft^3 would be almost 12T,
>> which is twice what works.
>
> That was a rule of thumb provided to me when I was sizing for my shop in
>2003; I've kept that in my notes, but don't have a reference for where it
>originated. For my shop, the calculation came to 2.88 tons, I put in 2
>tons.
>
> This may also be a regional issue. My house is 2000 square feet, using
>your calculator, that would be 3.3 tons -- that's way too small for a home
>in Tucson. Assuming an average 8 foot ceiling (that's a little under
>reality, but makes the computation easier), the 6 BTU/cubic foot would come
>to 8 tons. I am replacing a 5 ton A/C with another 5 ton, so the 6 BTU per
>cubic foot oversizes things.

I'm in East Alabama (100mi SE of Atlanta), so the heat load is pretty hefty
here, too. I usually turn the upstairs (2.5T) unit off, but am running it now
(heat index is supposed to be 112 today and tomorrow).

Thanks again for great comments. I am still leaning toward the Window
unit but the minisplit will get serious consideration before I do
anything -- probably next spring.

I had to step away for several days. Our daughter-in-law had our
latest grandson this past week. A good thing yes, but he showed up
several weeks early and is going to be in NICU for 2-3 weeks. Needs
the time to get all of his little systems up to speed. They were
thinking she might go early so they started her on some steroid shots
a couple of weeks ago to build his lungs. It must have worked because
he did not require oxygen and his suck instinct is up to par with an
full term. Still needs a little incubator and tanning booth time to
keep jaundice at bay.

RonB

On Jul 30, 12:31=A0am, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
> > Neil Brooks wrote:
>
> >> Equally, if not MORE important, is not to OVER-size the unit. =A0It wi=
ll
> >> short-cycle, and you'll be in a nice, cool shop that's brutally humid.
>
> >> An HVAC contractor can do the calc's for you. =A0They just need a bunc=
h
> >> of info about construction, orientation, sun exposure, etc.
>
> > Excellent advice, though for most window units in a space as described,
> > it's
> > probably not so much of a threat. =A0Though, you point remains. =A0It w=
ould be
> > foolish to purchase an 18,000 btu unit where a 10,000 btu was really
> > called for.
>
> >> I'd pay somebody, or get demo software, or ... in some other way to
> >> get Manual J load calcs done, for YOUR space.
>
> > Don't know as I'd go that far. =A0Simple calculations usually work pret=
ty
> > well
> > for windo air conditioners. =A0An old rule of thumb was sq footage x 20
> > gives
> > a reasonable approximation for cooling needs. =A0Not horribly scientifi=
ce,
> > but close enough for the task at hand.
>
> =A0 A bit more precise is the rule of thumb: 6 BTU/cubic foot -- that wil=
l
> cover his 10 foot ceilings. =A0

Your numbers aren't adding up.

- 20 BTU/ft^2 =3D 6 BTU/ft^3 means that the ceilings are only 40". ;-)

- At 20 BTU/ft^2, my house (2600ft^2) would need 4.3T. I have 6T (2.5
+ 3.5), so that seems reasonable. 6 BTU/ft^3 would be almost 12T,
which is twice what works.

RonB wrote:

> This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
> shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
> insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
> huge machine.

<snip>

Nice "Drive by". I think a "YOU SUCK!" is in order.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]

On Wed, 28 Jul 2010 13:18:54 -0700 (PDT), RonB <[email protected]> wrote:

>This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
>shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
>insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
>huge machine. In addition to comfort it should help with surface rust
>a little, but I will only be running it when in the shop. I have
>several windows so the conditioner will be a window unit.
>
>The obvious drawback, in my mind, is dust. I am adding dust
>collection this fall so that should help.
>
>For those who have installed air conditioning, can you provide
>downfalls or suggestions.
>
>RonB


Here's a good thread on the subject from about 5 years ago that discusses pros
and cons of several approaches. If you can get by with a wall unit, you'll save
some bucks. I couldn't because of the biddie society (HOA) here. I don't
regret spending the money though!

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/browse_thread/thread/626afa7665e19f94/6f0a4c7144f963b2?hl=en&q=group:rec.woodworking+author:roy

or

http://tinyurl.com/27a3n7u


Regards,
Roy

[email protected] wrote:

> On Jul 30, 12:31 am, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> > Neil Brooks wrote:
>>
>> >> Equally, if not MORE important, is not to OVER-size the unit.  It will
>> >> short-cycle, and you'll be in a nice, cool shop that's brutally humid.
>>
>> >> An HVAC contractor can do the calc's for you.  They just need a bunch
>> >> of info about construction, orientation, sun exposure, etc.
>>
>> > Excellent advice, though for most window units in a space as described,
>> > it's
>> > probably not so much of a threat.  Though, you point remains.  It would
>> > be foolish to purchase an 18,000 btu unit where a 10,000 btu was really
>> > called for.
>>
>> >> I'd pay somebody, or get demo software, or ... in some other way to
>> >> get Manual J load calcs done, for YOUR space.
>>
>> > Don't know as I'd go that far.  Simple calculations usually work pretty
>> > well
>> > for windo air conditioners.  An old rule of thumb was sq footage x 20
>> > gives
>> > a reasonable approximation for cooling needs.  Not horribly
>> > scientifice, but close enough for the task at hand.
>>
>> A bit more precise is the rule of thumb: 6 BTU/cubic foot -- that will
>> cover his 10 foot ceilings.
>
> Your numbers aren't adding up.
>
> - 20 BTU/ft^2 = 6 BTU/ft^3 means that the ceilings are only 40". ;-)
>
> - At 20 BTU/ft^2, my house (2600ft^2) would need 4.3T. I have 6T (2.5
> + 3.5), so that seems reasonable. 6 BTU/ft^3 would be almost 12T,
> which is twice what works.

That was a rule of thumb provided to me when I was sizing for my shop in
2003; I've kept that in my notes, but don't have a reference for where it
originated. For my shop, the calculation came to 2.88 tons, I put in 2
tons.

This may also be a regional issue. My house is 2000 square feet, using
your calculator, that would be 3.3 tons -- that's way too small for a home
in Tucson. Assuming an average 8 foot ceiling (that's a little under
reality, but makes the computation easier), the 6 BTU/cubic foot would come
to 8 tons. I am replacing a 5 ton A/C with another 5 ton, so the 6 BTU per
cubic foot oversizes things.


--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

> > RonB
>
> =A0 Congrats on the new grandson; glad all are doing well. =A0Our son arr=
ived 8
> weeks early over 14 years ago now (and he still has no patience). =A0That
> early arrival was a complete surprise. =A0He spent about 3 weeks in the
> hospital, he had to develop that sucking instinct, your grandson is well
> ahead of the game.
>
> --
>
> There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
>
> Rob Leatham

Our son is stressed but keeping his humor. He sent us an email
earlier saying the steroids really worked on the little guy. He was
bench pressing his IV board in the incubator :^)

RonB

On Jul 28, 11:13=A0pm, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote:

> =A0 Have had an air conditioner in the shop most of the time I've had a s=
hop. =A0
> Several things:
> 1) Don't undersize the unit, shop space is not as efficient as home space=
,

Equally, if not MORE important, is not to OVER-size the unit. It will
short-cycle, and you'll be in a nice, cool shop that's brutally humid.

An HVAC contractor can do the calc's for you. They just need a bunch
of info about construction, orientation, sun exposure, etc.

> My unit for a 720 square foot shop is a 2 ton unit, I
> wouldn't want to use any less. =A0

I'd pay somebody, or get demo software, or ... in some other way to
get Manual J load calcs done, for YOUR space.

This is definitely a place where bigger is NOT necessarily better.

You may want to look into a portable A/c unit. it is on wheels costs about
600. the big advantage is that you can build a small filtered box (to
protect against dust) and it vests via a window. when not in use you can
keep the window locked(and in the winter not have the window unit in there
eliminates the cold from getting in)



len

"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:e17ecd06-8c51-4de7-833e-bfde1f538e89@k19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
> This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
> shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
> insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
> huge machine. In addition to comfort it should help with surface rust
> a little, but I will only be running it when in the shop. I have
> several windows so the conditioner will be a window unit.
>
> The obvious drawback, in my mind, is dust. I am adding dust
> collection this fall so that should help.
>
> For those who have installed air conditioning, can you provide
> downfalls or suggestions.
>
> RonB

I have a portable unit myself - sets near my desk in the shop.
It blows on me and the computer - if I use it in CNC control.

I think I got it at Home Depot perhaps Lowe's.

It is a 120 unit stands upright and has a 10' hose running out the back.
Water drip line out the back. I have both outside.

I have 4 roll up overhead doors. I always have two open - unless it is
winter. Then I turn the unit into a heat pump and have a warmer.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 7/28/2010 3:18 PM, RonB wrote:
> This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
> shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
> insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
> huge machine. In addition to comfort it should help with surface rust
> a little, but I will only be running it when in the shop. I have
> several windows so the conditioner will be a window unit.
>
> The obvious drawback, in my mind, is dust. I am adding dust
> collection this fall so that should help.
>
> For those who have installed air conditioning, can you provide
> downfalls or suggestions.
>
> RonB

Mike Marlow wrote:

> Neil Brooks wrote:
>
>>
>> Equally, if not MORE important, is not to OVER-size the unit. It will
>> short-cycle, and you'll be in a nice, cool shop that's brutally humid.
>>
>> An HVAC contractor can do the calc's for you. They just need a bunch
>> of info about construction, orientation, sun exposure, etc.
>>
>>
>
> Excellent advice, though for most window units in a space as described,
> it's
> probably not so much of a threat. Though, you point remains. It would be
> foolish to purchase an 18,000 btu unit where a 10,000 btu was really
> called for.
>
>> I'd pay somebody, or get demo software, or ... in some other way to
>> get Manual J load calcs done, for YOUR space.
>
> Don't know as I'd go that far. Simple calculations usually work pretty
> well
> for windo air conditioners. An old rule of thumb was sq footage x 20
> gives
> a reasonable approximation for cooling needs. Not horribly scientifice,
> but close enough for the task at hand.
>

A bit more precise is the rule of thumb: 6 BTU/cubic foot -- that will
cover his 10 foot ceilings.

>>
>> This is definitely a place where bigger is NOT necessarily better.
>
> Absolutely correct.
>

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

My lower level shop was heated and cooled by a central HVAC unit that also
cooled the bedroom wing of the house. When I incorporated the shop into it,
I added a 12" duct to the return air box and (2) 8" ducts from the
distribution side. The A/C had a filter between the return air box and the
fan, which would have collected the new dust, but instead, I added a filter
in the return air grate I installed in the ceiling. While adding
restriction to the airflow, it stopped most of the dust from the shop from
entering the house.

Nonny

"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:e17ecd06-8c51-4de7-833e-bfde1f538e89@k19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
> This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
> shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
> insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
> huge machine. In addition to comfort it should help with surface rust
> a little, but I will only be running it when in the shop. I have
> several windows so the conditioner will be a window unit.
>
> The obvious drawback, in my mind, is dust. I am adding dust
> collection this fall so that should help.
>
> For those who have installed air conditioning, can you provide
> downfalls or suggestions.
>
> RonB

I have never clocked it to see how much it is on (cycle) but my guess is
about 60-70% during really hot humid days or when cooking is going on inside
the house. I d have an hour meter on my thermostat but have never calcualted
the cycle ratio. Too many new home building things to do yet.

Huge humidity is not tropical here but about 70-85% outside and inside peaks
at about 48% this year, so far. The humid days are limited to under about
7-14 days at a time so the A/C gets a rest and catches up on humidity every
week or so. Right now it has dropped (at night) to about 12C and the windows
are open again.


"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Huge Humidity, 92-95F 3500 ft and 2 ton unit. Does it ever shut off?
Define huge humidity, 90%+?


"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Regional and cultural.
>
> Mine is 3500 sq.ft. with 9 & 10' ceilings above ground and it cools just
> fine with 2 ton of cooling.
>
> You need some insulation. That dry climate should be a breeze (pun
> intended)
> to cool. My walls vary from R30 to R34 in the basment. R50 in the ceiling
> (minimum code)
>
> We run 92-95F and huge humidity. If the unit takes the humidity out the
> temp
> in nothing to drop.

RonB wrote:

> Thanks again for great comments. I am still leaning toward the Window
> unit but the minisplit will get serious consideration before I do
> anything -- probably next spring.
>
> I had to step away for several days. Our daughter-in-law had our
> latest grandson this past week. A good thing yes, but he showed up
> several weeks early and is going to be in NICU for 2-3 weeks. Needs
> the time to get all of his little systems up to speed. They were
> thinking she might go early so they started her on some steroid shots
> a couple of weeks ago to build his lungs. It must have worked because
> he did not require oxygen and his suck instinct is up to par with an
> full term. Still needs a little incubator and tanning booth time to
> keep jaundice at bay.
>
> RonB

Congrats on the new grandson; glad all are doing well. Our son arrived 8
weeks early over 14 years ago now (and he still has no patience). That
early arrival was a complete surprise. He spent about 3 weeks in the
hospital, he had to develop that sucking instinct, your grandson is well
ahead of the game.

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

On a recent TOH they installed a two part AC system in a garage in
Florida. It had a special filter for dust, that could be cleaned very
easily.

Mike in Ohio

RonB wrote:
> This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
> shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
> insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
> huge machine. In addition to comfort it should help with surface rust
> a little, but I will only be running it when in the shop. I have
> several windows so the conditioner will be a window unit.
>
> The obvious drawback, in my mind, is dust. I am adding dust
> collection this fall so that should help.
>
> For those who have installed air conditioning, can you provide
> downfalls or suggestions.
>
> RonB

"[email protected]" <[email protected]> writes:
>On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 13:59:13 -0700, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>

>> This may also be a regional issue. My house is 2000 square feet, using
>>your calculator, that would be 3.3 tons -- that's way too small for a home
>>in Tucson. Assuming an average 8 foot ceiling (that's a little under
>>reality, but makes the computation easier), the 6 BTU/cubic foot would come
>>to 8 tons. I am replacing a 5 ton A/C with another 5 ton, so the 6 BTU per
>>cubic foot oversizes things.
>
>I'm in East Alabama (100mi SE of Atlanta), so the heat load is pretty hefty
>here, too. I usually turn the upstairs (2.5T) unit off, but am running it now
>(heat index is supposed to be 112 today and tomorrow).

It has been a perfect summer here; noticably cooler than the average summer

http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/climate/yeardisp.php?wfo=mtr&year=2010&span=Calendar%20Year&stn=KSJC

scott

> <snip>
>
> Nice "Drive by". =A0I think a "YOU SUCK!" is in order.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]

Probably should have elaborated that the "shop" is actually a 2-car
garage that was enlarged, during house design, to accommodate the
shop. Thus the 10+ foot ceiling. I would not have raised the ceiling
that high otherwise which in itself raises the heat/cool
requirement. The two 9' wide doors don't help either. The garage is
insulated to the same standard as the house with 6" walls and about
R35 overhead.

I have already installed a radiant heater which handles the heating
well. I started thinking window unit because it seemed t make most
sense -- stick it in the window and go. However, the minisplit looks
affordable, shouldn't require a major rework, and keeps stuff off of
the floor. I am trying to minimize floor footprint because the shop
does share space with two vehicles.

If you saw the garage now I might suck less. Pending construction of
a garden shed in the back yard, my "shop" also shares space with a
garden tractor/mower, towable spreader, garden trailer, roto-tiller,
generator, garden tools, etc. etc, etc. Getting from the bench to the
band saw is an acrobatic feat :^}

Good comments so far and I do appreciate them.

RonB

Neil Brooks wrote:

>
> Equally, if not MORE important, is not to OVER-size the unit. It will
> short-cycle, and you'll be in a nice, cool shop that's brutally humid.
>
> An HVAC contractor can do the calc's for you. They just need a bunch
> of info about construction, orientation, sun exposure, etc.
>
>

Excellent advice, though for most window units in a space as described, it's
probably not so much of a threat. Though, you point remains. It would be
foolish to purchase an 18,000 btu unit where a 10,000 btu was really called
for.

> I'd pay somebody, or get demo software, or ... in some other way to
> get Manual J load calcs done, for YOUR space.

Don't know as I'd go that far. Simple calculations usually work pretty well
for windo air conditioners. An old rule of thumb was sq footage x 20 gives
a reasonable approximation for cooling needs. Not horribly scientifice, but
close enough for the task at hand.

>
> This is definitely a place where bigger is NOT necessarily better.

Absolutely correct.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

RonB wrote:

> This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
> shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
> insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
> huge machine. In addition to comfort it should help with surface rust
> a little, but I will only be running it when in the shop. I have
> several windows so the conditioner will be a window unit.
>
> The obvious drawback, in my mind, is dust. I am adding dust
> collection this fall so that should help.
>
> For those who have installed air conditioning, can you provide
> downfalls or suggestions.
>
> RonB

Have had an air conditioner in the shop most of the time I've had a shop.
Several things:
1) Don't undersize the unit, shop space is not as efficient as home space,
especially if you have high ceilings and/or equipment running. My first air
conditioner in my shop in Dallas was too small, I had to run it starting
early in the morning to keep the shop cool. If I let the thermal load get
too high by waiting until mid-day, the shop would never cool down to a
comfortable level. My unit for a 720 square foot shop is a 2 ton unit, I
wouldn't want to use any less.

2) As far as dust goes, just plan on cleaning the filter very regularly and
blowing out the coils at least yearly. If you do a lot of sanding (I mostly
plane and scrape), then you might want to make that a monthly activity.
That never really caused significant problems for me even when I was sanding
work. I'm on my second A/C in the current shop, the first one died a few
weeks ago. The failure was in the fan motor, not related to any problems
with dust, this motor was outside. Unfortunately, this was a Fedders unit
-- Fedders went bankrupt 3 years ago and the only motors available were
going to be upwards of $300 for the motor alone, before labor. It's too
bad, the compressor still cools fine. Bottom line, as long as you exercise
reasonable care, dust shouldn't bother you.

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

RonB wrote:
> This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
> shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
> insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
> huge machine. In addition to comfort it should help with surface rust
> a little, but I will only be running it when in the shop. I have
> several windows so the conditioner will be a window unit.
>
> The obvious drawback, in my mind, is dust. I am adding dust
> collection this fall so that should help.
>
> For those who have installed air conditioning, can you provide
> downfalls or suggestions.
>
> RonB

look into a minisplit. i put one in my garashop for my wife's ceramic work
area. since i have a 4.5 car garashop with 12' ceilings, and didn't want to
condition the whole place, i rigged a thick plastic tarp that drops down
from the ceiling to block off 1 car space. she turns it on a while before
she's going to use it, and it can keep it down to comfortable temps. also,
it doesn't kick up too much of a breeze since it's mounted about 8' up the
wall, and is a LOT quieter than a window shaker.

regards,
charlie
phx az

On 7/28/10 4:18 PM, RonB wrote:
> This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
> shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
> insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
> huge machine. In addition to comfort it should help with surface rust
> a little, but I will only be running it when in the shop. I have
> several windows so the conditioner will be a window unit.
>
> The obvious drawback, in my mind, is dust. I am adding dust
> collection this fall so that should help.
>
> For those who have installed air conditioning, can you provide
> downfalls or suggestions.
>
You may want to consider one of the ductless, in wall, mounted A/C units.
They are supposed to be very efficient.
No personal experience.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 7/28/2010 4:58 PM, lennn99 wrote:
> You may want to look into a portable A/c unit. it is on wheels costs
> about 600. the big advantage is that you can build a small filtered box
> (to protect against dust) and it vests via a window. when not in use you
> can keep the window locked(and in the winter not have the window unit in
> there eliminates the cold from getting in)

Of course one can make a cover that deals with the cold.

> len
>
> "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:e17ecd06-8c51-4de7-833e-bfde1f538e89@k19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>> This sweltering summer has made me think a bit more about cooling the
>> shop a bit. I have about 1,024 sf with a 10+ foot ceiling and lots of
>> insulation; and I can do the capacity calculation. I should not need a
>> huge machine. In addition to comfort it should help with surface rust
>> a little, but I will only be running it when in the shop. I have
>> several windows so the conditioner will be a window unit.
>>
>> The obvious drawback, in my mind, is dust. I am adding dust
>> collection this fall so that should help.
>>
>> For those who have installed air conditioning, can you provide
>> downfalls or suggestions.
>>
>> RonB
>

Josepi wrote:

> Regional and cultural.
>
> Mine is 3500 sq.ft. with 9 & 10' ceilings above ground and it cools just
> fine with 2 ton of cooling.
>
> You need some insulation. That dry climate should be a breeze (pun
> intended) to cool.

The early part of the summer, it is. We have an evaporative cooler that
we run during that part of the year. When our monsoon season hits, the
humidity soars (OK, to about 20%, but it's enough to render the evaporative
cooler ineffective) and then it's not so easy to cool.


> My walls vary from R30 to R34 in the basment. R50 in
> the ceiling (minimum code)
>
> We run 92-95F and huge humidity. If the unit takes the humidity out the
> temp in nothing to drop.
>
>
> "Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> That was a rule of thumb provided to me when I was sizing for my shop in
> 2003; I've kept that in my notes, but don't have a reference for where it
> originated. For my shop, the calculation came to 2.88 tons, I put in 2
> tons.
>
> This may also be a regional issue. My house is 2000 square feet, using
> your calculator, that would be 3.3 tons -- that's way too small for a home
> in Tucson. Assuming an average 8 foot ceiling (that's a little under
> reality, but makes the computation easier), the 6 BTU/cubic foot would
> come
> to 8 tons. I am replacing a 5 ton A/C with another 5 ton, so the 6 BTU
> per cubic foot oversizes things.
>
>

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

Regional and cultural.

Mine is 3500 sq.ft. with 9 & 10' ceilings above ground and it cools just
fine with 2 ton of cooling.

You need some insulation. That dry climate should be a breeze (pun intended)
to cool. My walls vary from R30 to R34 in the basment. R50 in the ceiling
(minimum code)

We run 92-95F and huge humidity. If the unit takes the humidity out the temp
in nothing to drop.


"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
That was a rule of thumb provided to me when I was sizing for my shop in
2003; I've kept that in my notes, but don't have a reference for where it
originated. For my shop, the calculation came to 2.88 tons, I put in 2
tons.

This may also be a regional issue. My house is 2000 square feet, using
your calculator, that would be 3.3 tons -- that's way too small for a home
in Tucson. Assuming an average 8 foot ceiling (that's a little under
reality, but makes the computation easier), the 6 BTU/cubic foot would come
to 8 tons. I am replacing a 5 ton A/C with another 5 ton, so the 6 BTU per
cubic foot oversizes things.


--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 21:12:53 -0700 (PDT), RonB <[email protected]> wrote:

>Thanks again for great comments. I am still leaning toward the Window
>unit but the minisplit will get serious consideration before I do
>anything -- probably next spring.

One thing to remember is the 30% tax rebate. It's only good this year. I'm
going to try like hell to get my shop put together enough to put one in before
the end of the year. Our covenants don't allow window units and I need heat
anyway, so a mini-split will be perfect.

>I had to step away for several days. Our daughter-in-law had our
>latest grandson this past week. A good thing yes, but he showed up
>several weeks early and is going to be in NICU for 2-3 weeks. Needs
>the time to get all of his little systems up to speed. They were
>thinking she might go early so they started her on some steroid shots
>a couple of weeks ago to build his lungs. It must have worked because
>he did not require oxygen and his suck instinct is up to par with an
>full term. Still needs a little incubator and tanning booth time to
>keep jaundice at bay.

Cool! Hope all continue to do well.

"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Regional and cultural.
>
> Mine is 3500 sq.ft. with 9 & 10' ceilings above ground and it cools just
> fine with 2 ton of cooling.
>
> You need some insulation. That dry climate should be a breeze (pun
> intended)
> to cool. My walls vary from R30 to R34 in the basment. R50 in the ceiling
> (minimum code)
>
> We run 92-95F and huge humidity. If the unit takes the humidity out the
> temp
> in nothing to drop.


Huge Humidity, 92-95F 3500 ft and 2 ton unit. Does it ever shut off?
Define huge humidity, 90%+?