Hi. Several years ago I bought a bench saw to see if I liked woodworking.
I did, and a couple years ago upgraded to the bottom-of-the-line Grizzly
contractor saw. I couldn't get the stamped steel wings to align properly,
and Grizzly was kind enough to let me upgrade to the cast wings at the
difference in price between the stamped and cast. A couple months ago I
found a used Shop Fox Original fence on the internet and replaced the
Grizzly factory fence.
The saw blade is parallel to the miter slots as close as I can measure with
a combo square. The fence has about 1/32" leed. Yet when cutting sheet
goods, the saw wants to make large circles -- like 1/4" off on 4'!
One of the reasons I wanted the Shop Fox Original is that it has a slot in
the top of the fence for the "Board Buddies" anti kickback rollers. They
also help hold stock to the fence, helping to keep the cut straight.
Something I didn't know until after the UPS man brought them is that they
won't work on wood less than about an inch thick. The fence is too tall for
the Buddies range of motion and I have to build a shorter fence face &
attach the Buddies to that -- losing rip capacity in the process.
Grrrr.... And I'm loathe to make cuts now to build the fence since only the
factory edge will be straight.
Is this just a case of operator error? The blade measures parallel to the
miter slots. The fence is perpendicular to the table and parallel to the
miter slots + 1/32" leed. I've cut plenty of straight cuts before. Any
ideas why my TS is acting this way? Any suggestions?
Thanks.
-- Mark
Jamie Jackson wrote:
> Sounds like you are aware of some of the biggest suspects, but here's
> a small one: Check that your kerf clears your splitter, I guess by
> running a straightedge along both sides of the blade past the
> splitter. If the splitter pushes the outside edge of the kerf, that
> could draw it away from the fence.
>
> I have to fix the opposite problem right now, where my splitter's
> squeezing the wood against the fence.
Forgot to mention that. The guard/splitter is the factory original. It's
dead down the middle of my thin kerf blade. A straightedge laid either side
of the blade (not hitting any teeth) has a thin gap to the splitter. So the
splitter isn't contributing to the circular cutting problem as far as I can
tell.
(I had a kickback a while ago because I wasn't using the splitter. I hope
the scar on my left hand is permanent as a reminder to not be so stooopid in
the future.)
-- Mark
George wrote:
> Are you keeping the goods pressing on the fence just prior to the
> blade, or are you switching your pressure points?
Yes, I *believe* I'm doing it the right way.
> Sheet goods are
> the one time I move to the side of the saw, unless there's a foot or
> more so I can get a full palm between the blade and the fence.
I used to do this alot (moving to the side of the saw) especially with my
old bench saw. But after that violent kickback I'm leery of putting my
hands between the fence & blade at all. I don't trust the factory guard to
be stout enough to keep my hannies out of the blade.
> Oh yes, garbage in, garbage out applies here, too. If you don't have
> a good edge to rip against....
Yeah that's true. Pity there's only 4 factory edges per sheet while I'm
figuring this thing out.
-- Mark
Are you keeping the goods pressing on the fence just prior to the blade, or
are you switching your pressure points? Sheet goods are the one time I
move to the side of the saw, unless there's a foot or more so I can get a
full palm between the blade and the fence.
Oh yes, garbage in, garbage out applies here, too. If you don't have a good
edge to rip against....
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> The saw blade is parallel to the miter slots as close as I can measure
with
> a combo square. The fence has about 1/32" leed. Yet when cutting sheet
> goods, the saw wants to make large circles -- like 1/4" off on 4'!
>
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Question: How does one use a dial indicator to check the fence? Does it
> slide in the miter slot? >
When mounted on a sled, yes it does.
B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:
> Try jointer style flat push blocks.
So sheet goods are apt to wander from the fence unless kept pressed up
against it with blocks or hands near/after the blade? The books I've
checked out of the library, "Table Saw Basics" by Roger Cliffe &
"Cutting-Edge Table Saw Tips & Tricks" by Kenneth Burton show the authors
cutting plywood without doing that.
-- Mark
A neat trick I saw for getting the fence parallel to the blade was to
move the fence tight to the blade (unplug the saw first) and loosen the
adjusting screws or bolts on the fence. Next clamp the fence securely
to the blade with c-clamps front and rear. This will insure that the
fence and blade are parallel. Tighten the adjusting bolts of the fence
and you should be set. I saw this done on a Canadian woodworking TV
show and I have done it this way for years and it works great.
George wrote:
>
> Are you keeping the goods pressing on the fence just prior to the blade, or
> are you switching your pressure points? Sheet goods are the one time I
> move to the side of the saw, unless there's a foot or more so I can get a
> full palm between the blade and the fence.
>
> Oh yes, garbage in, garbage out applies here, too. If you don't have a good
> edge to rip against....
>
> "Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > The saw blade is parallel to the miter slots as close as I can measure
> with
> > a combo square. The fence has about 1/32" leed. Yet when cutting sheet
> > goods, the saw wants to make large circles -- like 1/4" off on 4'!
> >
JackD wrote:
>>>Has nothing to do with it. A stick on a block works just as well.
>>
>>A stick and block WOULD work just as well, provided the stick was
>>guaranteed of uniform length. The point was that the average $10.00 combo
>>square with its typically loose blade is NOT guaranteed of a uniform
>>length.
>
>
> A stick is typically guaranteed to be the same length as itself.
> Occasionally it will be the same length as another stick. However I have
> never seen a stick that is a different length than it is.
>
> Same goes with combo squares. They are always as long as themselves, but may
> be shorter or longer than a starett. You could pay more, but you won't get
> anything with a better chance of being it's own length.
>
> -Jack
>
>
LOL
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<Secret> wrote in message news:> > off on 4'!
> > -- Mark
> >
> >
> >
>
> It sounds as if you have one, and perhaps 2 problems. One is you've
> gotten the mitreslot parallel to the blade and the fence as bet as you
> can measure with a combo square. I'd suggest using a slightly more
> precise measuring device. First off the combo square is good to MAYBE +/-
> 1/32. Thats assuming it has no slop from wear and tear, and assuming it's
> till square.
The trueness of the combo square in this application is irrelevant. I can
square my blade to the miter slot within .002, guaranteed, with a combo
square.
Those are 2 big assumptions. An inexpensive dial indicator
> and base are a good investment.
> Second you say that you've got a 1/32" leading gap in the rear of the
> fence? Thats WAY too much IMO. You're introducing an error of 1/32" for
> every 10" (it is a 10" saw right?) fo material that you feed. Compund
> that over a 4 foot run and you've got an error of 5/32" Not quite the
> 1/4" you stated, but close. Try (once you're sure everything is square
> and parallel) setting the fence truly parallel or if you must open it up,
> open it just a couple of thousandths.. I suspect you'll find that you're
> very close to perfect.
This I will agree with.
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Hi. Several years ago I bought a bench saw to see if I liked
> woodworking. I did, and a couple years ago upgraded to the
> bottom-of-the-line Grizzly contractor saw. I couldn't get the stamped
> steel wings to align properly, and Grizzly was kind enough to let me
> upgrade to the cast wings at the difference in price between the
> stamped and cast. A couple months ago I found a used Shop Fox
> Original fence on the internet and replaced the Grizzly factory fence.
>
> The saw blade is parallel to the miter slots as close as I can measure
> with a combo square. The fence has about 1/32" leed. Yet when
> cutting sheet goods, the saw wants to make large circles -- like 1/4"
> off on 4'!
>
> One of the reasons I wanted the Shop Fox Original is that it has a
> slot in the top of the fence for the "Board Buddies" anti kickback
> rollers. They also help hold stock to the fence, helping to keep the
> cut straight. Something I didn't know until after the UPS man brought
> them is that they won't work on wood less than about an inch thick.
> The fence is too tall for the Buddies range of motion and I have to
> build a shorter fence face & attach the Buddies to that -- losing rip
> capacity in the process. Grrrr.... And I'm loathe to make cuts now to
> build the fence since only the factory edge will be straight.
>
> Is this just a case of operator error? The blade measures parallel to
> the miter slots. The fence is perpendicular to the table and parallel
> to the miter slots + 1/32" leed. I've cut plenty of straight cuts
> before. Any ideas why my TS is acting this way? Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- Mark
>
>
>
It sounds as if you have one, and perhaps 2 problems. One is you've
gotten the mitreslot parallel to the blade and the fence as bet as you
can measure with a combo square. I'd suggest using a slightly more
precise measuring device. First off the combo square is good to MAYBE +/-
1/32. Thats assuming it has no slop from wear and tear, and assuming it's
till square. Those are 2 big assumptions. An inexpensive dial indicator
and base are a good investment.
Second you say that you've got a 1/32" leading gap in the rear of the
fence? Thats WAY too much IMO. You're introducing an error of 1/32" for
every 10" (it is a 10" saw right?) fo material that you feed. Compund
that over a 4 foot run and you've got an error of 5/32" Not quite the
1/4" you stated, but close. Try (once you're sure everything is square
and parallel) setting the fence truly parallel or if you must open it up,
open it just a couple of thousandths.. I suspect you'll find that you're
very close to perfect.
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Sorry, disagree. The combo square used as a touch gage is as good as
> anything you can get. If you're interested in the actual measurement
> of any light between it and the tooth, use automotive feeler gages.
Sure, assuming that the combo is truly square, most aren't, or that you
touch at the exact same point across the width of the ruler blade.. not
likely. Otherwise in addition to the variety of other problems you
introduce the innacuracy of the combo square.
>
> Not to mention, it used to be standard practice, and still is in my
> shop, to skew the fence 1/32 to 1/16 front to back to prevent
> kickback. Works well, too.
>
And it would be a fine practice provided you had the proper technique to
keep the stock parallel to the blade at the cutting edge and ONLY at the
cutting edge. If you guide the stock through ensuring that it is in
constant contact with the fence for the entire cut, and if your fence is
not correctly parallel you will enduce a taper. There is nothign to be
done for it as it is a matter of simple geometry. This could be
compensated for with good technique, but since the OP seems to have a
number of issues it seems that the simplest is the best. What I suggested
was the simplest solution.
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Doesn't have to be perfectly square, just has to be the same length
> when you move it from one end of the blade to the other. You would be
> hard pressed to make it otherwise, unless you're running the saw at
> the time.
>
> Do you have any real knowledge of woodworking?
>
> <Secret> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "George" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> > Sorry, disagree. The combo square used as a touch gage is as good
>> > as anything you can get. If you're interested in the actual
>> > measurement of any light between it and the tooth, use automotive
>> > feeler gages.
>>
>> Sure, assuming that the combo is truly square, most aren't, or that
>> you touch at the exact same point across the width of the ruler
>> blade.. not likely. Otherwise in addition to the variety of other
>> problems you introduce the innacuracy of the combo square.
>> >
>
>
It doesn't need to be square.. It does need to be parallel. If you feed
stock into a blade at an angle you get a taper. The degree of the taper
is in direct proportion to the angle.
As to my knowledge of woodworking, your choosing to disparge me without
any actual knowledge of me or my experience is a little inappropriate. I
gave the OP the solution to his problem. What have you contributed?
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:ju4fb.663244$YN5.511092@sccrnsc01:
>
> <Secret> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>> Sure, assuming that the combo is truly square,
>
> Makes no difference for this use.
>
>>or that you
>> touch at the exact same point across the width of the ruler blade..
>> not likely.
>
> Easily done.
It IS easily done, however there is no clear indication that it WAS done.
IF the combo is out of square, and IF you use the opposite corner as your
touch spot you introduce a new error. It is admittedly a small error but
an error just the same.Suppose the square was out by 3 degrees, not at
all unreasonable. Across the 1" end of the ruler you'd introduce an error
of .052" if you used the opposite corners as your touch points.
The point of my original post was that a dial indicator was a better
choice for the job.. I'd venture to say that one could do a little better
than .052 off doing it that way.
>
>
> Otherwise in addition to the variety of other problems you
>> introduce the innacuracy of the combo square.
>
> Has nothing to do with it. A stick on a block works just as well.
A stick and block WOULD work just as well, provided the stick was
guaranteed of uniform length. The point was that the average $10.00 combo
square with its typically loose blade is NOT guaranteed of a uniform
length.
>
>
>> >
>> And it would be a fine practice provided you had the proper technique
>> to keep the stock parallel to the blade at the cutting edge and ONLY
>> at the cutting edge. If you guide the stock through ensuring that it
>> is in constant contact with the fence for the entire cut, and if your
>> fence is not correctly parallel you will enduce a taper. There is
>> nothign to be done for it as it is a matter of simple geometry. This
>> could be compensated for with good technique, but since the OP seems
>> to have a number of issues it seems that the simplest is the best.
>> What I suggested was the simplest solution.
>>
>
>
"JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>> > Has nothing to do with it. A stick on a block works just as well.
>>
>> A stick and block WOULD work just as well, provided the stick was
>> guaranteed of uniform length. The point was that the average $10.00
>> combo square with its typically loose blade is NOT guaranteed of a
>> uniform length.
>
.
>
> Same goes with combo squares. They are always as long as themselves,
> but may be shorter or longer than a starett. You could pay more, but
> you won't get anything with a better chance of being it's own length.
>
> -Jack
>
>
>
This thread has gotten a little out of control so this will be my last
comment on it.. but
> A stick is typically guaranteed to be the same length as itself.
> Occasionally it will be the same length as another stick. However I
> have never seen a stick that is a different length than it is
Unless one end were square and the other end were not. Then, depending on
what surface of the stick you got your mark it may or may be the same
twice. Repeatability is the issue not the length of the stick.
> Same goes with combo squares. They are always as long as themselves,
> but may be shorter or longer than a starett. You could pay more, but
> you won't get anything with a better chance of being it's own length.
>
> -Jack
>
Also not strictly true as if the blade is not square then the end of the
rule will be at different (albeight a small difference) distances along
it's width. The difference (for a 1" wide blade) would be the sin of the
angle that it's out of square by.
Is the blade fresh and sharp?
Brian
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:
>
> > I'm proabably a day late and a dollar short but is your blade bent?
>
> Hadn't thought of that so I just checked. Yes, it's straight to
> combo-square-in-miter-slot accuracy.
>
> -- Mark
>
>
Doesn't have to be perfectly square, just has to be the same length when you
move it from one end of the blade to the other. You would be hard pressed
to make it otherwise, unless you're running the saw at the time.
Do you have any real knowledge of woodworking?
<Secret> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "George" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Sorry, disagree. The combo square used as a touch gage is as good as
> > anything you can get. If you're interested in the actual measurement
> > of any light between it and the tooth, use automotive feeler gages.
>
> Sure, assuming that the combo is truly square, most aren't, or that you
> touch at the exact same point across the width of the ruler blade.. not
> likely. Otherwise in addition to the variety of other problems you
> introduce the innacuracy of the combo square.
> >
Or, you could take your combination square, push the broad face firmly
against the fence side of the miter slot, move the fence until it just
touches the extended rule (or extend the rule out to the fence), then,
maintaining the pressure against the miter slot, you could see if you get
gaps or hang-ups as you slide fore and aft from your original point.
Not sexy, but absolutely effective. If you care to see how big the gap is,
should you discover one, you may measure it with those thickness gages, or,
as it matters not how much, but rather that there be as little as possible,
you can add a board, shimmed to be the same distance over its entire length
to the face of your fence.
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Zeke wrote:
>
> > I would suggest you get a dial indicator (harbor freight has them
> > cheap) and check the flatness of your fence. My shop fox classic fence
> > was bowed in the middle so even though the two ends were alligned to
> > the miter slots, the saw cut horrible. After adding some masking tape
> > for shims, and replacing the plastic face with maple, I'm finally very
> > happy with the saw.
>
> Thanks. I didn't think of the fence perhaps not being straight. The
"Shop
> Fox Original" is metal and quite substantial.
>
> Question: How does one use a dial indicator to check the fence? Does it
> slide in the miter slot? I almost bought a magnetic-base dial indicator
> during Grizzly's summer sale, but didn't because all I could see using it
> for was testing blade and arbor runout.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- Mark
>
>
> > Has nothing to do with it. A stick on a block works just as well.
>
> A stick and block WOULD work just as well, provided the stick was
> guaranteed of uniform length. The point was that the average $10.00 combo
> square with its typically loose blade is NOT guaranteed of a uniform
> length.
A stick is typically guaranteed to be the same length as itself.
Occasionally it will be the same length as another stick. However I have
never seen a stick that is a different length than it is.
Same goes with combo squares. They are always as long as themselves, but may
be shorter or longer than a starett. You could pay more, but you won't get
anything with a better chance of being it's own length.
-Jack
> This thread has gotten a little out of control so this will be my last
> comment on it.. but
Thanks for letting me have the last word.
> > A stick is typically guaranteed to be the same length as itself.
> > Occasionally it will be the same length as another stick. However I
> > have never seen a stick that is a different length than it is
>
> Unless one end were square and the other end were not. Then, depending on
> what surface of the stick you got your mark it may or may be the same
> twice. Repeatability is the issue not the length of the stick.
Of course. You would not be using the stick the long way for one measurement
and the short way for the next. That would be stupid. I give the poster the
benefit of the doubt on stupidity.
> > Same goes with combo squares. They are always as long as themselves,
> > but may be shorter or longer than a starett. You could pay more, but
> > you won't get anything with a better chance of being it's own length.
> >
> > -Jack
> >
> Also not strictly true as if the blade is not square then the end of the
> rule will be at different (albeight a small difference) distances along
> it's width. The difference (for a 1" wide blade) would be the sin of the
> angle that it's out of square by.
Ah, here is where you are wrong. Even if the blade is not square, the
distance to the high point of the blade will always be the same. Since this
measurement is a contact measurement, you can't touch the short part of the
rule to the blade without the long part of the rule getting in the way. Once
again, I give the poster the benefit of the doubt that they are not stupid
enough to rotate the rule or change the angle of it. If they are then
nothing will help them.
It also goes without saying that you want to rotate the blade to make sure
there is no run-out before you take these measurements. The "quality" of the
measuring device plays very little part in this as long as it is rigid and
can maintain the same (doesn't matter if is it 90 degrees or 84.39 degrees)
angle with the slot.
OK, That is it.
Bye!
-Jack
Wayne Wegge wrote:
> A neat trick I saw for getting the fence parallel to the blade was to
> move the fence tight to the blade (unplug the saw first) and loosen
> the adjusting screws or bolts on the fence. Next clamp the fence
> securely
> to the blade with c-clamps front and rear. This will insure that the
> fence and blade are parallel. Tighten the adjusting bolts of the fence
> and you should be set. I saw this done on a Canadian woodworking TV
> show and I have done it this way for years and it works great.
I can't use that exact procedure... The rear-locking portion of the Shop
Fox Original fence runs into the guard bracket about 1 3/4" from the blade.
That, and the manual's dire warning to never use a right-leeded fence on the
left side of the blade & vice versa and the fact it's a bit of a pain to
adjust, caused me to mount the fence for right-only cutting. I have rip
capacity right of 1 3/4" to 35 15/16". ;-) I use a jig for thinner than 1
3/4" and clamp a fence to the saw for left cutting.
No, you're right. I wouldn't have bought this fence if I could have found a
review beforehand. <g>
-- Mark
On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 17:24:48 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi. Several years ago I bought a bench saw to see if I liked woodworking.
>I did, and a couple years ago upgraded to the bottom-of-the-line Grizzly
>contractor saw. I couldn't get the stamped steel wings to align properly,
>and Grizzly was kind enough to let me upgrade to the cast wings at the
>difference in price between the stamped and cast. A couple months ago I
>found a used Shop Fox Original fence on the internet and replaced the
>Grizzly factory fence.
>
>The saw blade is parallel to the miter slots as close as I can measure with
>a combo square. The fence has about 1/32" leed. Yet when cutting sheet
>goods, the saw wants to make large circles -- like 1/4" off on 4'!
>
>One of the reasons I wanted the Shop Fox Original is that it has a slot in
>the top of the fence for the "Board Buddies" anti kickback rollers. They
>also help hold stock to the fence, helping to keep the cut straight.
>Something I didn't know until after the UPS man brought them is that they
>won't work on wood less than about an inch thick. The fence is too tall for
>the Buddies range of motion and I have to build a shorter fence face &
>attach the Buddies to that -- losing rip capacity in the process.
>Grrrr.... And I'm loathe to make cuts now to build the fence since only the
>factory edge will be straight.
>
>Is this just a case of operator error? The blade measures parallel to the
>miter slots. The fence is perpendicular to the table and parallel to the
>miter slots + 1/32" leed. I've cut plenty of straight cuts before. Any
>ideas why my TS is acting this way? Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks.
Sounds like you are aware of some of the biggest suspects, but here's
a small one: Check that your kerf clears your splitter, I guess by
running a straightedge along both sides of the blade past the
splitter. If the splitter pushes the outside edge of the kerf, that
could draw it away from the fence.
I have to fix the opposite problem right now, where my splitter's
squeezing the wood against the fence.
Jamie
Sorry, disagree. The combo square used as a touch gage is as good as
anything you can get. If you're interested in the actual measurement of
any light between it and the tooth, use automotive feeler gages.
Not to mention, it used to be standard practice, and still is in my shop, to
skew the fence 1/32 to 1/16 front to back to prevent kickback. Works well,
too.
<Secret> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It sounds as if you have one, and perhaps 2 problems. One is you've
> gotten the mitreslot parallel to the blade and the fence as bet as you
> can measure with a combo square. I'd suggest using a slightly more
> precise measuring device. First off the combo square is good to MAYBE +/-
> 1/32. Thats assuming it has no slop from wear and tear, and assuming it's
> till square. Those are 2 big assumptions. An inexpensive dial indicator
> and base are a good investment.
> Second you say that you've got a 1/32" leading gap in the rear of the
> fence? Thats WAY too much IMO. You're introducing an error of 1/32" for
> every 10" (it is a 10" saw right?) fo material that you feed. Compund
> that over a 4 foot run and you've got an error of 5/32" Not quite the
> 1/4" you stated, but close. Try (once you're sure everything is square
> and parallel) setting the fence truly parallel or if you must open it up,
> open it just a couple of thousandths.. I suspect you'll find that you're
> very close to perfect.
On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 19:53:19 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:
>
>> Try jointer style flat push blocks.
>
>So sheet goods are apt to wander from the fence unless kept pressed up
>against it with blocks or hands near/after the blade?
I find that a well maintained set of blocks is even better than my
hands, grip wise. A side bonus is you get that much more distance
between flesh and carbide.
I try to put even pressure against the fence slightly in front of the
blade, near the fence. If you're having a great deal of trouble you
may want to enlist a helper until you get the hang of it. I often
enlist help on long boards and sheets larger than about 2x4 feet.
"Maintaining" a set of push blocks simply means keeping the padded
side clean and slightly roughed up with 60 grit.
Barry
<Secret> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
> Sure, assuming that the combo is truly square,
Makes no difference for this use.
>or that you
> touch at the exact same point across the width of the ruler blade.. not
> likely.
Easily done.
Otherwise in addition to the variety of other problems you
> introduce the innacuracy of the combo square.
Has nothing to do with it. A stick on a block works just as well.
> >
> And it would be a fine practice provided you had the proper technique to
> keep the stock parallel to the blade at the cutting edge and ONLY at the
> cutting edge. If you guide the stock through ensuring that it is in
> constant contact with the fence for the entire cut, and if your fence is
> not correctly parallel you will enduce a taper. There is nothign to be
> done for it as it is a matter of simple geometry. This could be
> compensated for with good technique, but since the OP seems to have a
> number of issues it seems that the simplest is the best. What I suggested
> was the simplest solution.
>
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:
>
> > I'm proabably a day late and a dollar short but is your blade bent?
>
> Hadn't thought of that so I just checked. Yes, it's straight to
> combo-square-in-miter-slot accuracy.
>
> -- Mark
>
>
On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 19:32:07 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>But after that violent kickback I'm leery of putting my
>hands between the fence & blade at all. I don't trust the factory guard to
>be stout enough to keep my hannies out of the blade.
Try jointer style flat push blocks.
Barry
On Thu, 02 Oct 2003 17:04:21 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Thanks. I didn't think of the fence perhaps not being straight. The "Shop
>Fox Original" is metal and quite substantial.
>
>Question: How does one use a dial indicator to check the fence? Does it
>slide in the miter slot? I almost bought a magnetic-base dial indicator
>during Grizzly's summer sale, but didn't because all I could see using it
>for was testing blade and arbor runout.
>
>Thanks.
>
> -- Mark
>
You could buy a TS alligner that slides in the miter slot, or do as I
did and simply bolt the indicator to a block of wood that has a rail
sized for the slot attached to the bottom. Good luck fixing it if you
find this is the case. It was a real PITA, and without having a face
to shim would have been even worse
Zeke
com to net for e-mail
On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 17:24:48 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
<[email protected]> wrote:
I would suggest you get a dial indicator (harbor freight has them
cheap) and check the flatness of your fence. My shop fox classic fence
was bowed in the middle so even though the two ends were alligned to
the miter slots, the saw cut horrible. After adding some masking tape
for shims, and replacing the plastic face with maple, I'm finally very
happy with the saw.
Zeke
Zeke wrote:
> I would suggest you get a dial indicator (harbor freight has them
> cheap) and check the flatness of your fence. My shop fox classic fence
> was bowed in the middle so even though the two ends were alligned to
> the miter slots, the saw cut horrible. After adding some masking tape
> for shims, and replacing the plastic face with maple, I'm finally very
> happy with the saw.
Thanks. I didn't think of the fence perhaps not being straight. The "Shop
Fox Original" is metal and quite substantial.
Question: How does one use a dial indicator to check the fence? Does it
slide in the miter slot? I almost bought a magnetic-base dial indicator
during Grizzly's summer sale, but didn't because all I could see using it
for was testing blade and arbor runout.
Thanks.
-- Mark
I'm proabably a day late and a dollar short but is your blade bent?
On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 18:03:06 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Jamie Jackson wrote:
>
>> Sounds like you are aware of some of the biggest suspects, but here's
>> a small one: Check that your kerf clears your splitter, I guess by
>> running a straightedge along both sides of the blade past the
>> splitter. If the splitter pushes the outside edge of the kerf, that
>> could draw it away from the fence.
>>
>> I have to fix the opposite problem right now, where my splitter's
>> squeezing the wood against the fence.
>
>
>Forgot to mention that. The guard/splitter is the factory original. It's
>dead down the middle of my thin kerf blade. A straightedge laid either side
>of the blade (not hitting any teeth) has a thin gap to the splitter. So the
>splitter isn't contributing to the circular cutting problem as far as I can
>tell.
>
>(I had a kickback a while ago because I wasn't using the splitter. I hope
>the scar on my left hand is permanent as a reminder to not be so stooopid in
>the future.)
>
> -- Mark
>
"Wayne Wegge" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A neat trick I saw for getting the fence parallel to the blade was to
> move the fence tight to the blade (unplug the saw first) and loosen the
> adjusting screws or bolts on the fence. Next clamp the fence securely
> to the blade with c-clamps front and rear. This will insure that the
> fence and blade are parallel. Tighten the adjusting bolts of the fence
> and you should be set. I saw this done on a Canadian woodworking TV
> show and I have done it this way for years and it works great.
>
Yuck! Sounds like a good way to bend a blade. It also does not take
(blade) metal spring back into account.
You can't beat a good straightedge and a machinist's rule. At least for me,
'cause that is all I have! <g>.
--
Jim in NC
<Secret> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "George" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> >
> >
> >
>
> It doesn't need to be square.. It does need to be parallel. If you feed
> stock into a blade at an angle you get a taper. The degree of the taper
> is in direct proportion to the angle.
No. Your fence could be out by inches. As long as you keep the wood against
it while feeding, it will be cut strait.
>
> As to my knowledge of woodworking, your choosing to disparge me without
> any actual knowledge of me or my experience is a little inappropriate. I
> gave the OP the solution to his problem. What have you contributed?