Folks,
I am need of a Patternmaker's rasp(s) as I'm trying to complete a rocking chair. I need to feather in the edges of the joints (arms to seat, legs to seat, legs to rockers).
I am looking at the Nicholson ones (#49 and #50), but I also read that the production quality of these particular rasps are not great.
Rather than spending upwards of $100 per rasp or more any suggestions?
Thanks,
MJ
"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> MJ, I bought a #50 Nicholson rasp about 10yrs ago and it has
> remained my "go to" rasp - inspite of having bought a more expensive
> "hand cut" rasp since. It cuts quickly and leaves a finish smooth
> enough to go directly to 80 or 100 grit sandpaper.
Did Nicholson sell out to theChinese? Don't know how they're made now, but
my 10+ year old Nicholson #50 still works just fine.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
MJ <[email protected]> wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I am need of a Patternmaker's rasp(s) as I'm trying to complete a rocking
> chair. I need to feather in the edges of the joints (arms to seat, legs
> to seat, legs to rockers).
>
> I am looking at the Nicholson ones (#49 and #50), but I also read that
> the production quality of these particular rasps are not great.
>
> Rather than spending upwards of $100 per rasp or more any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> MJ
Just a thought, while the Nicholsons may not be great they might be good
enough for this one project especially if they are inexpensive. Used
daily the $100 ones would be a bargain.
On Thursday, October 10, 2013 7:14:19 AM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
> "Dr. Deb" wrote:
> > MJ, I bought a #50 Nicholson rasp about 10yrs ago and it has=20
>=20
> > remained my "go to" rasp - inspite of having bought a more expensive=20
>=20
> >
>=20
> Did Nicholson sell out to theChinese? Don't know how they're made now, bu=
t
>=20
> my 10+ year old Nicholson #50 still works just fine.
That's the problem. Lee Valley and a few other high-end tool catalogs dropp=
ed the Nicholson because of quality problems when Cooper switched to Mexico=
and Brazil (not China!) as places for their manufacture. However, there ar=
e some other places (many in fact) that continue to sell the Nicholsons. I =
will probably go ahead and order from one of them and look other suggestion=
s. There are a couple of highly recommended rasp makers that are not hand c=
ut, and don't cost more than the Nicholsons.=20
MJ
"Sonny" wrote:
25 yrs ago, I bought a Porter Cable 7" disc sander ($180), with a
rubber "plate", for heavy sanding (24 & 36 grit discs) in those sorts
of areas. It works great for those types of areas, especially when
there's a lot to chew away. I've learned to "carve" with it and use
it for many other tasks. I've only had to replace the brushes a few
times. Don't know if today's sander would be of the same quality.
Additionally, for curved areas, I've made an assortment of rounded
sanding blocks. The blocks not only fit the various curves, they are
large enough & comfortable, to fit my hand.
--------------------------------------------------------------
SFWIW
A 3-1/2" Milwaukee right angle sander/grinder equipped with 24 grit
discs was my "go to" device for detail forming when working with fiber
glass.
It was light enough to be able to work with one hand.
Last time I bought one the Milwaukee it was about $100 and 24 grit
discs were $0.60 each in lots of 30.
For heavy work, a 9" Milwaukee right angle sander/grinder with 16 grit
discs was the standard.
Lew
On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 6:17:18 PM UTC-5, MJ wrote:
> Rather than spending upwards of $100 per rasp or more any suggestions? T=
hanks, MJ
These Nicholsons are $36 ea, (plus shipping =3D ?): http://www.jamestowndis=
tributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3D2778
25 yrs ago, I bought a Porter Cable 7" disc sander ($180), with a rubber "p=
late", for heavy sanding (24 & 36 grit discs) in those sorts of areas. It =
works great for those types of areas, especially when there's a lot to chew=
away. I've learned to "carve" with it and use it for many other tasks. I=
've only had to replace the brushes a few times. Don't know if today's san=
der would be of the same quality.
Additionally, for curved areas, I've made an assortment of rounded sanding =
blocks. The blocks not only fit the various curves, they are large enough =
& comfortable, to fit my hand.
Sonny
"MJ" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>Folks,
>
>I am need of a Patternmaker's rasp(s) as I'm trying to complete a rocking
>chair. I need to feather in the edges of the >joints (arms to seat, legs to
>seat, legs to rockers).
>
>I am looking at the Nicholson ones (#49 and #50), but I also read that the
>production quality of these particular rasps >are not great.
>Rather than spending upwards of $100 per rasp or more any suggestions?
I've got those rasps... when I need them I need them! Put another way
sometimes they are the only right tool.
An alternative would be the Auriou rasps
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/auriou-rasps.aspx
There are Chinese rasps floating around that suffice for occasional use.
John
On 10/9/2013 7:17 PM, MJ wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I am need of a Patternmaker's rasp(s) as I'm trying to complete a rocking chair. I need to feather in the edges of the joints (arms to seat, legs to seat, legs to rockers).
>
> I am looking at the Nicholson ones (#49 and #50), but I also read that the production quality of these particular rasps are not great.
>
> Rather than spending upwards of $100 per rasp or more any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> MJ
>
Flee market, and garage sales.
If you need it now... you will have to spend.
The quality of Nics are very poor. Glad I have stock in old well cared
for rasps.
--
Jeff
MJ wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I am need of a Patternmaker's rasp(s) as I'm trying to complete a
rocking
> chair. I need to feather in the edges of the joints (arms to seat, legs
to
> seat, legs to rockers).
>
> I am looking at the Nicholson ones (#49 and #50), but I also read
that the
> production quality of these particular rasps are not great.
>
> Rather than spending upwards of $100 per rasp or more any
suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> MJ
MJ, I bought a #50 Nicholson rasp about 10yrs ago and it has
remained my "go to" rasp - inspite of having bought a more expensive
"hand cut" rasp since. It cuts quickly and leaves a finish smooth
enough to go directly to 80 or 100 grit sandpaper.
While you are at it, get yourself a small brass brush from HF to clean
it with. Its not bad about loading up, but all rasps need to be cleaned
from time to time.
Deb
"MJ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> Folks,
>
> I am need of a Patternmaker's rasp(s) as I'm trying to
> complete a rocking chair. I need to feather in the edges
> of the joints (arms to seat, legs to seat, legs to
> rockers).
>
> I am looking at the Nicholson ones (#49 and #50), but I
> also read that the production quality of these particular
> rasps are not great.
>
> Rather than spending upwards of $100 per rasp or more any
> suggestions?
Go to Home Depot and buy the Cooper Nicholson 4 in hand rasp for $7.97.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-Tools-Nicholson-8-in-4-in-Hand-File-21860N/100134991?keyword=4-in-hand+rasp#.UlalCj5Mpw0
They work just fine. I use them for tasks similar to yours; once faired out
the hand holds in 40' of grab rails on my sailboat with one.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net