http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadiddle/SacrificialFenceClamp#
5 bucks in parts, plus scraps, and an hour in the shop save you 15 bucks
from Rockler.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Feb 16, 8:34=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadiddle/SacrificialFenceClamp#
>
> 5 bucks in parts, plus scraps, and an hour in the shop save you 15 bucks
> from Rockler.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Sweet!
Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2/17/2010 5:53 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
>> Morris Dovey<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hoosierpopi came up with a great alternative clamp idea for stop blocks
>>> on a RAS that would absolutely shine for these applications, but I won't
>>> steal his thunder...
>>
>> Unfair!!! Don't tease us like that.
>>
>> ( Can't find it - google, ask ,bing....)
>
>On the other thread (Video of Shop Made Sacrificial Fence Clamps) he posted:
>
>http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq347/happyhollowpics/Sarasota/?action=view¤t=sacfence.gif
Thanks. Download limitations usually make me veer away from threads
about videos.
Somebody wrote:
---------------------------------------
I could see having different attaching faces for different
>> tasks. Maybe one with t-track for feather-boards.
-----------------------------------
See my post on "Video of Shop Made Sacrifical Fence Clamps" for
Unifence.
---------------------------------------------
Couple of 1/4-20 FH bolts with fender washers and wing nuts (all
stainless steel), worked for me on my Unifence.
One fence consisted of 2 pieces of 3/4 (actual size) (13 ply birch),
about 8" wide x 36" long glued together.
This oversize fence accepted a T-Track to mount feather boards, etc.
The 2nd piece of 3/4" (13 ply) served as the actual sacrifical fence.
Both were bolted to fence extrusion as req'd.
Why 2 pieces glued together?
Unique to Unifence.
"Low" & "High" fence settings are 1-1/2" apart, thus it is a
no-brainer to use Unifence scale directly.
Lew
On Feb 16, 8:34=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadiddle/SacrificialFenceClamp#
>
> 5 bucks in parts, plus scraps, and an hour in the shop save you 15 bucks
> from Rockler.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I use a simple technique for temporary sistering of a sacrificial
fence to my Unifence. I use two Vise Grip clamps, the kind with the
enlarged jaw pads. I also use the same clamps to align face frames
when using the Kreg jig.
Joe G
On Feb 17, 9:33=A0pm, RonB <[email protected]> wrote:
< Neat, simple idea.
Thank you. I would add some of that webbed rubber gripper pad or
similar when using the idea as a saw stop on the mitre saw (or a
couple of clipped nail heads protruding a bit) as the little clamp can
be defeated if you shove a 2 x 4 against it when using it as a RAS
Stop.
They have a "next size up" clamp and I am thinking of using it
(cutting off the excess bar) to get greater gripping power.
I think this might also work with a couple of those metal spring
clamps as long as they open wide enough to grip the fence. Just
replace one "leg" witha bit of steel rod and Voila!
On Feb 17, 9:18=A0am, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 08:17:44 -0600, Morris Dovey
>
> >> 5 bucks in parts, plus scraps, and an hour in the shop save you 15 buc=
ks
> >> from Rockler.
>
> >I like it!
>
> What's even better than a sacrificial clamp is that if you double the
> installation, it could be the basis for a table saw mounted router
> fence.
Exactly what I thought when I saw the pics. I have a router built
into my table saw and the router fence is made from Baltic birch ply.
I usually clamp it to the table saw fence with a couple of Irwins. I
can drill two holes in the router fence and adapt his clamps directly
to my fence. Neat, simple idea.
RonB
Cool - I was wondering how to do that. I got used to my old delta fence -
just screw wood to the fence and be done with it.
Thanks,
Limp Arbor <[email protected]> wrote in news:16ad01cd-50f0-4f27-aa86-
[email protected]:
> On Feb 16, 8:34 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadiddle/SacrificialFenceClamp#
>>
Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Hoosierpopi came up with a great alternative clamp idea for stop blocks
>on a RAS that would absolutely shine for these applications, but I won't
>steal his thunder...
Unfair!!! Don't tease us like that.
( Can't find it - google, ask ,bing....)
On 2/17/2010 9:18 AM, Upscale wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 08:17:44 -0600, Morris Dovey
>>> 5 bucks in parts, plus scraps, and an hour in the shop save you 15 bucks
>>> from Rockler.
>>
>> I like it!
>
> What's even better than a sacrificial clamp is that if you double the
> installation, it could be the basis for a table saw mounted router
> fence.
Hoosierpopi came up with a great alternative clamp idea for stop blocks
on a RAS that would absolutely shine for these applications, but I won't
steal his thunder...
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On 2/17/2010 5:53 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
> Morris Dovey<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hoosierpopi came up with a great alternative clamp idea for stop blocks
>> on a RAS that would absolutely shine for these applications, but I won't
>> steal his thunder...
>
> Unfair!!! Don't tease us like that.
>
> ( Can't find it - google, ask ,bing....)
On the other thread (Video of Shop Made Sacrificial Fence Clamps) he posted:
http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq347/happyhollowpics/Sarasota/?action=view¤t=sacfence.gif
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On 2/18/10 5:44 PM, me wrote:
> Cool - I was wondering how to do that. I got used to my old delta fence -
> just screw wood to the fence and be done with it.
> Thanks,
>
There's no reason not to just do that.
My Biesemeyer fence has plywood sides.
It would be no hassle at all to use the originals as templates to knock
out some new ones.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 2/18/10 5:44 PM, me wrote:
> > Cool - I was wondering how to do that. I got used to my old delta fence -
> > just screw wood to the fence and be done with it.
> > Thanks,
> >
>
> There's no reason not to just do that.
> My Biesemeyer fence has plywood sides.
> It would be no hassle at all to use the originals as templates to knock
> out some new ones.
>
>
I'm not sure about it being no hassle on a Biesmeyer. The attaching
bolts/screws are buried under the facing material (formica?) and I don't
see how to remove the originals w/o at least wounding them. I suspect the
originals may also shimmed to make them square to the table. Shimming
a sacrificial board would involve some hassle.
Art
On 2/18/10 10:33 PM, Artemus wrote:
>> There's no reason not to just do that.
>> My Biesemeyer fence has plywood sides.
>> It would be no hassle at all to use the originals as templates to knock
>> out some new ones.
>>
>>
> I'm not sure about it being no hassle on a Biesmeyer. The attaching
> bolts/screws are buried under the facing material (formica?) and I don't
> see how to remove the originals w/o at least wounding them. I suspect the
> originals may also shimmed to make them square to the table. Shimming
> a sacrificial board would involve some hassle.
> Art
>
Shimmed?
Why wouldn't they just manufacture the fence to be square in the first
place?
I suspect that is what they do.
I also think it would be pretty easy to find the attaching screws/bolts
with a stud finder and cut nice holes in the laminate to access the
screws. I could see having different attaching faces for different
tasks. Maybe one with t-track for feather-boards. Maybe one for a
router fence.
As for wounding the originals... I never understood the need of some to
keep their tools in pristine condition, for that sake alone. If it
helps improve the tool's performance or makes it easier to use, I say,
do it.
One of the first jigs I made for my saw was I a tenoning jig that
saddles the Biesmeyer fence and slides along its length. I quickly
noticed that the plastic edge banding they use to trim the edges of the
side boards wasn't the same height on both side, and it adversely
effected the tenoning jig's motion.
So I flipped the thing over, held one side square to my jointer fence
and ran it through, trimming both edge bandings perfectly flat and at
the same height. That took care of that. Did I even give a second
thought to the fact that I was somehow taking the fence's virginity? I
didn't even give it a first thought.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Shimmed?
> Why wouldn't they just manufacture the fence to be square in the first
> place?
> I suspect that is what they do.
>
> I also think it would be pretty easy to find the attaching screws/bolts
> with a stud finder and cut nice holes in the laminate to access the
> screws. I could see having different attaching faces for different
> tasks. Maybe one with t-track for feather-boards. Maybe one for a
> router fence.
>
> As for wounding the originals... I never understood the need of some to
> keep their tools in pristine condition, for that sake alone. If it
> helps improve the tool's performance or makes it easier to use, I say,
> do it.
>
> One of the first jigs I made for my saw was I a tenoning jig that
> saddles the Biesmeyer fence and slides along its length. I quickly
> noticed that the plastic edge banding they use to trim the edges of the
> side boards wasn't the same height on both side, and it adversely
> effected the tenoning jig's motion.
>
> So I flipped the thing over, held one side square to my jointer fence
> and ran it through, trimming both edge bandings perfectly flat and at
> the same height. That took care of that. Did I even give a second
> thought to the fact that I was somehow taking the fence's virginity? I
> didn't even give it a first thought.
>
The manufacturer doesn't always get it right as evidenced by the
discussion here:
http://www.woodworking-online.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=19063
I didn't advocate keeping tools in pristine condition. I frequently modify
mine as you note above and sometimes it's a hassle but worth it IMO.
My original response was in regard to your no hassle statement which
I felt was misleading.
Art
On 2/20/10 6:08 PM, Artemus wrote:
> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Shimmed?
>> Why wouldn't they just manufacture the fence to be square in the first
>> place?
>> I suspect that is what they do.
>>
>> I also think it would be pretty easy to find the attaching screws/bolts
>> with a stud finder and cut nice holes in the laminate to access the
>> screws. I could see having different attaching faces for different
>> tasks. Maybe one with t-track for feather-boards. Maybe one for a
>> router fence.
>>
>> As for wounding the originals... I never understood the need of some to
>> keep their tools in pristine condition, for that sake alone. If it
>> helps improve the tool's performance or makes it easier to use, I say,
>> do it.
>>
>> One of the first jigs I made for my saw was I a tenoning jig that
>> saddles the Biesmeyer fence and slides along its length. I quickly
>> noticed that the plastic edge banding they use to trim the edges of the
>> side boards wasn't the same height on both side, and it adversely
>> effected the tenoning jig's motion.
>>
>> So I flipped the thing over, held one side square to my jointer fence
>> and ran it through, trimming both edge bandings perfectly flat and at
>> the same height. That took care of that. Did I even give a second
>> thought to the fact that I was somehow taking the fence's virginity? I
>> didn't even give it a first thought.
>>
> The manufacturer doesn't always get it right as evidenced by the
> discussion here:
> http://www.woodworking-online.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=19063
>
> I didn't advocate keeping tools in pristine condition. I frequently modify
> mine as you note above and sometimes it's a hassle but worth it IMO.
> My original response was in regard to your no hassle statement which
> I felt was misleading.
> Art
>
Misleading? Ok. Guess it depends on your definition of "no hassle."
But we can disagree. :-)
I read that thread 'til the end and it turns out the company replace his
fence, so that would imply that they are supposed to be square to the
table.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 19:56:06 -0500, Larry Kraus <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq347/happyhollowpics/Sarasota/?action=view¤t=sacfence.gif
>Thanks. Download limitations usually make me veer away from threads
>about videos.
If it helps you any, they're images, not motion videos specifically.