hi,
I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
any advice appreciated...
thanks,
david
greenville, sc
I have my miter saw set in a bench that provides table top to each
side. It is quite easy to rig a stop.
If it is round tube, you run the risk of part(s) spinning in the
cut - not good - if you try to cut a bunch at once. I would try
to get going with 2 at a time and develop a good rhythm. Won't
take long. The biggest deal will be dealing with the finish
pieces.
Good technique and blade should give you a clean, burrless cut.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"david" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:3vV%[email protected]...
> hi,
>
> I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails.
> I need to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for
> suggestions on the most efficient and painless way to do this.
> I have woodworking tools such as band saw, table saw, miter
> saws, jig saw, etc...
>
> any advice appreciated...
>
> thanks,
>
> david
> greenville, sc
>
I have used my table was with a carbide blade. I was cutting 3/4 aluminum
tube for wind chimes. BE CAREFUL of flying chips, where gloves and face
protection. Just my opinion.
Frank
Phisherman wrote:
> Like another post suggested, use a pipe cutter. If you use a miter
> saw with a metal blade, wrap electrical tape around the pipe one time
> where it is to be cut to prevent burrs.
>
> On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 09:37:03 GMT, david <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >hi,
> >
> >I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
> >to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
> >the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
> >tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
> >
> >any advice appreciated...
> >
> >thanks,
> >
> >david
> >greenville, sc
I would add a bit of wax to the blade to prevent build-up of aluminium on
the teeth.
Dave
"Groggy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gGY%[email protected]...
> I have been cutting small amounts of aluminium angle recently using my
mitre
> saw. Use a non-ferrous blade (lots of teeth. It will make a *huge* mess so
> ensure you do it in an area that is easy to clean. Note that aluminium
> curlies stick to everything - shoes, wood, shop dog paws - everything.
>
> For 400 cuts:
>
> eye protection (fully enclosed) - definite
> hearing protection - definite
> assistant - highly desireable
> tape - unnecessary
> file to deburr if needed
> stop to ensure length of repeat cuts - essential
>
> Technique:
> set stop
> cut
> test piece in place
> commence bulk cuts
> have assistant place tubing, you pull handle
> every so often ensure chips are clear of stop block so each cut isn't
> getting shorter.
> finish job
> cleanup (for days)
>
> Lastly, shave your head, it's easier than getting aluminium curlies out of
> it one by one.
>
> Do While stockslast
> Drink beer.
> Loop
>
>
>
>
> "david" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:3vV%[email protected]...
> > hi,
> >
> > I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
to
> > cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on the
> > most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking tools
such
> > as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
> >
> > any advice appreciated...
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > david
> > greenville, sc
> >
>
>
Good points mentioned already: stop block jig and 2 (or more?) at a
time.
I forked over $50 for a Freud diablo non-ferrous blade for my CMS. I
still didn't believe it would cut the aluminum picture frame moulding
I needed to miter, but it did a fabulous job. Maybe it's overkill,
but I suspect you would be happy with its performance. If it were me,
I'd use a 10" abrasive disc for a chop saw ($5 or so) in a CMS, as the
edges will remain hidden.
Notable idea: Maybe you could buff them with some metal polish or
rouge before installing for a chrome type look.
Good luck!
On Thu, 9 Sep 2004 17:31:25 -0400, "Lee Gordon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Barry ...
>
><<Since you have 400 of them to do, why not install a non-ferrous metal
>cutting blade in the miter saw? These are usually available at any
>home center. You could also set up a stop block and measure once,
>cut 400 times.>>
>
>Don't you mean "measure twice?" <g>
>
>Lee
No. You measure the second time after you cut 400 too-short poles.
Where would the challenge be if you KNEW the parts were right the
first time?
Barry
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:Zvq0d.9707
> Whe done, clean it up, put back the oringial blade and sell it on eBay.
> (Sprinke a little sawdust for good measure) You may get the cost down to
12
> 1/2¢ each that way.
>
Or rent a chop saw for a day. About $30.00.
Abrasive disks do a lousy job on aluminum. Often load an refuse to cut. If
they do cut there will be one huge burr to clean up.
"Sam Schmenk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Good points mentioned already: stop block jig and 2 (or more?) at a
> time.
>
> I forked over $50 for a Freud diablo non-ferrous blade for my CMS. I
> still didn't believe it would cut the aluminum picture frame moulding
> I needed to miter, but it did a fabulous job. Maybe it's overkill,
> but I suspect you would be happy with its performance. If it were me,
> I'd use a 10" abrasive disc for a chop saw ($5 or so) in a CMS, as the
> edges will remain hidden.
>
> Notable idea: Maybe you could buff them with some metal polish or
> rouge before installing for a chrome type look.
>
> Good luck!
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I see all the posts about putting a metal cutting blade in a miter saw
> and going to town, and I would indeed do so as well.
>
> Now for my "But," so to speak.
>
> But I've always avoided putting metal cutting blades on my wood working
> equipment due to worrying about the detrimental effects all those metal
> filings may have inside the motors and on the bearing surfaces of my
> equipment not specifically made for metal cutting. And after 400 pieces,
> there's going to be a lot of metal filings.
Are you willing to pay 25¢ each to have them cut? If so, buy a $99 Ryobi
and start cutting.
Whe done, clean it up, put back the oringial blade and sell it on eBay.
(Sprinke a little sawdust for good measure) You may get the cost down to 12
1/2¢ each that way.
> OR am I just paranoid?
Even if you are, it doesn't; mean people aren't out to get you. ;)
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> I see all the posts about putting a metal cutting blade in a miter saw
>> and going to town, and I would indeed do so as well.
>>
>> Now for my "But," so to speak.
>>
>> But I've always avoided putting metal cutting blades on my wood working
>> equipment due to worrying about the detrimental effects all those metal
>> filings may have inside the motors and on the bearing surfaces of my
>> equipment not specifically made for metal cutting. And after 400 pieces,
>> there's going to be a lot of metal filings.
>
> Are you willing to pay 25¢ each to have them cut? If so, buy a $99 Ryobi
> and start cutting.
>
> Whe done, clean it up, put back the oringial blade and sell it on eBay.
> (Sprinke a little sawdust for good measure) You may get the cost down to
> 12 1/2¢ each that way.
>
>> OR am I just paranoid?
>
> Even if you are, it doesn't; mean people aren't out to get you. ;)
I got my Delta on sale for $88 and have seen CMT's or GMT's (something like
that) for $69.
"david" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:3vV%[email protected]...
> hi,
>
> I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
> to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
> the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
> tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
>
> any advice appreciated...
I'd look for the right kind of blade for the miter saw and set up a jig for
length. 400 pieces with a tubing cutter will make for very tired
hands/wrists. I know they make carbide toothed blades for cutting
non-ferrous metals, or use an abrasive blade.
--
Nahmie
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.
[email protected] (Kevin Daly) writes:
> Personally, I prefer to use a tube cutter. Perfect cuts and quick and
> painless.
Not as quick as a hand-held bandsaw, especially when doing four
hundred. More accurate, I agree.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
david wrote:
> hi,
>
> I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
> to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
> the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
> tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
>
> any advice appreciated...
>
> thanks,
>
> david
> greenville, sc
I see all the posts about putting a metal cutting blade in a miter saw
and going to town, and I would indeed do so as well.
Now for my "But," so to speak.
But I've always avoided putting metal cutting blades on my wood working
equipment due to worrying about the detrimental effects all those metal
filings may have inside the motors and on the bearing surfaces of my
equipment not specifically made for metal cutting. And after 400 pieces,
there's going to be a lot of metal filings. Go ahead and call me paranoid,
but the only wood working tool I've used with a metal blade in it was a
cheap circular saw I considered expendable. At the very least, make sure
to clean your equipment up after using it to cut metal. Blowing out the
equipment and its motor with air is what I'd do, but I'm sure that brings
up another debate of if one jams filings further into the machine that way.
Perhaps thought given to using a vacuum to suck up filings as they are
cut would go a long way toward protecting your wood working equipment.
OR am I just paranoid?
Thanks, Steve
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Self-Feeding-Midget-Cutters/
These things look cute but are expensive; you should be able to find
comparable products at a local retailer.
[email protected] (Kevin Daly) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Personally, I prefer to use a tube cutter. Perfect cuts and quick and
> painless.
>
> Kevin Daly
> http://hometown.aol.com/kdaly10475/page1.html
In article <3vV%[email protected]>,
david <[email protected]> wrote:
>hi,
>
>I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
>to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
>the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
>tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
>
>any advice appreciated...
>
>thanks,
>
>david
>greenville, sc
>
There are aluminum-cutting blades specifically made for the table saw
or circular saw. I would use one of these if I had 400 pieces to cut.
If you need to save some $ remember you can use the 7 1/4" blade in
your table saw instead of paying for the 10", which you don't need to
cut 3/4" thick tubing. If you use the table saw (as opposed to
handheld circ. saw) clean all the sawdust out of it before you cut the
tubing.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
I have been cutting small amounts of aluminium angle recently using my mitre
saw. Use a non-ferrous blade (lots of teeth. It will make a *huge* mess so
ensure you do it in an area that is easy to clean. Note that aluminium
curlies stick to everything - shoes, wood, shop dog paws - everything.
For 400 cuts:
eye protection (fully enclosed) - definite
hearing protection - definite
assistant - highly desireable
tape - unnecessary
file to deburr if needed
stop to ensure length of repeat cuts - essential
Technique:
set stop
cut
test piece in place
commence bulk cuts
have assistant place tubing, you pull handle
every so often ensure chips are clear of stop block so each cut isn't
getting shorter.
finish job
cleanup (for days)
Lastly, shave your head, it's easier than getting aluminium curlies out of
it one by one.
Do While stockslast
Drink beer.
Loop
"david" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:3vV%[email protected]...
> hi,
>
> I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need to
> cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on the
> most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking tools such
> as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
>
> any advice appreciated...
>
> thanks,
>
> david
> greenville, sc
>
On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 22:01:16 -0500, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
wrote:
>david wrote:
>
>> I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
>> to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
>> the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
>> tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
>
>I bought HF's least expensive metal-cutting (horizontal) bandsaw
>a year ago because I found myself building more and more metal
>jigs and fixtures. Since then I've cut a fair amount of aluminum
>and brass - and the machine (and original blade) are still
>working like new.
>
>I'd suggest that this is probably the appropriate tool for the
>job - and can either be sold or kept when your deck rails are
>done. (I'd be surprised if you didn't keep it.)
I have the jet version of that saw. the HF, jet and delta versions
appear to be identical. it's a great tool, as long as you aren't
looking for real accuracy. I'll second that suggestion.
david wrote:
> I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
> to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
> the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
> tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
I bought HF's least expensive metal-cutting (horizontal) bandsaw
a year ago because I found myself building more and more metal
jigs and fixtures. Since then I've cut a fair amount of aluminum
and brass - and the machine (and original blade) are still
working like new.
I'd suggest that this is probably the appropriate tool for the
job - and can either be sold or kept when your deck rails are
done. (I'd be surprised if you didn't keep it.)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 11:36:32 GMT, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
>Like another post suggested, use a pipe cutter. If you use a miter
>saw with a metal blade, wrap electrical tape around the pipe one time
>where it is to be cut to prevent burrs.
With the right blade, I've never had burrs with a miter saw, even
without tape.
Barry
"david" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:3vV%[email protected]...
> hi,
>
> I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
> to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
> the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
> tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
>
> any advice appreciated...
>
> thanks,
>
> david
> greenville, sc
I would probably get a metal-cutting blade and put it in the miter saw. I
suspect that you're starting off with longer tubing sections, which for me
would be easier to deal with on the miter saw.
todd
On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 09:37:03 GMT, david <[email protected]>
wrote:
>hi,
>
>I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
>to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
>the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
>tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
>
>any advice appreciated...
Since you have 400 of them to do, why not install a non-ferrous metal
cutting blade in the miter saw? These are usually available at any
home center. You could also set up a stop block and measure once,
cut 400 times.
For just a few, I'd probably use a tubing cutter or hacksaw.
Barry
Like another post suggested, use a pipe cutter. If you use a miter
saw with a metal blade, wrap electrical tape around the pipe one time
where it is to be cut to prevent burrs.
On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 09:37:03 GMT, david <[email protected]>
wrote:
>hi,
>
>I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
>to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
>the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
>tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
>
>any advice appreciated...
>
>thanks,
>
>david
>greenville, sc
Barry ...
<<Since you have 400 of them to do, why not install a non-ferrous metal
cutting blade in the miter saw? These are usually available at any
home center. You could also set up a stop block and measure once,
cut 400 times.>>
Don't you mean "measure twice?" <g>
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
And a full-face shield.
Just my opinion, guaranteed not to reflect the opinion of everyone.
jlc
"Groggy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gGY%[email protected]...
> I have been cutting small amounts of aluminium angle recently using my
mitre
> saw. Use a non-ferrous blade (lots of teeth. It will make a *huge* mess so
> ensure you do it in an area that is easy to clean. Note that aluminium
> curlies stick to everything - shoes, wood, shop dog paws - everything.
>
> For 400 cuts:
>
> eye protection (fully enclosed) - definite
> hearing protection - definite
> assistant - highly desireable
> tape - unnecessary
> file to deburr if needed
> stop to ensure length of repeat cuts - essential
>
> Technique:
> set stop
> cut
> test piece in place
> commence bulk cuts
> have assistant place tubing, you pull handle
> every so often ensure chips are clear of stop block so each cut isn't
> getting shorter.
> finish job
> cleanup (for days)
>
> Lastly, shave your head, it's easier than getting aluminium curlies out of
> it one by one.
>
> Do While stockslast
> Drink beer.
> Loop
>
>
>
>
> "david" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:3vV%[email protected]...
> > hi,
> >
> > I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
to
> > cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on the
> > most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking tools
such
> > as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
> >
> > any advice appreciated...
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > david
> > greenville, sc
> >
>
>
Circular saw with carbide blade and a homemade cutting jig to give you
repeatable lengths (easily made from 2x4s and a piece of plywood)
John
On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 09:37:03 GMT, david <[email protected]>
wrote:
>hi,
>
>I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need
>to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on
>the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking
>tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
>
>any advice appreciated...
>
>thanks,
>
>david
>greenville, sc