I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
(59th) with family.
Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
air coming out of the vent.
Awshit.
Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't running but the A/C
was. Hmm...
Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and there was
239.8v across them.
OK so far.
Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very warm. OK,
it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I showered it with cool water
until it was cold.
Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no frozen bearings.
It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think it's being (somewhat)
energized. VOM confirms that below.
Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through each
contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan. Looks normal so
far.
Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it labored for
just over a second before the second click happened. It was fairly
quiet.
I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house, but it sounded
like the comp might be frozen. I took auto A/C in school in '72 so
it's very familiar in concept.
I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not engaged), low
pressure switch (dunno without gauge set), and thermistor switch (now
cooled with water, so doubtful as the culprit now.) System is ten
years + 4 months old and has never had a problem. I have the
installing company come out almost every year for a checkup but didn't
last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early on and some pieces
of insulation in the fan another time, but nothing else has been
required or done to it.
Any thoughts, boys and girls?
--
A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner, so if
one's life is cold and bare he can blame none but himself.
-- Louis L'Amour
On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 15:47:16 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 8/7/2012 2:20 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 06:39:48 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 8/7/2012 12:34 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>
>>> Snip
>>>
>>>>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>>>>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>>>>
>>>> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
>>>> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You will need help on this one. Take a picture of your hair before, and
>>> get some one else to take a picture of your hair after you lick your
>>> fingers. Have that other person post both pictures and let us analyze
>>> for capacitor out put.
>>
>> ROTFL! 2 points, Leon. Some of your best writing yet, and no typoes!
>>
>> (OK, who transcribed it for you, hmmm?)
>
>
>I reread it 6 times.
That makes for 6 more introductions of at least one typo.
I don't buy -that- for a nanosecond.
The cap tests open capacitaterly and resistively. Whew! It'll be a
quick fix after all! (Thank you, Crom!)
--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>
>>
>> No. Think about it Bill. What would be the difference if it were
>> screwed in?
>>
>
> There are wires passing all over and around that thing. Why toss in a
> piece of conductive material???
Let's hope there's not wires just passing all over and around the thing - it
sure should be less messy than that. But... you miss the point. The cap
is already conductive - the strapping adds nothing to that. Screwing it in
would do nothing to reduce conductivity. Perhaps you are referring to the
strapping wrapping around the motor - if that's what Larry did... well, if
it's done nice and tight, that too adds no more conductivity than the motor
housing itself.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 20:18:08 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>>>> (59th) with family.
>>>>>
>>>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt
>>>>> warm air coming out of the vent.
>>>>> Awshit.
>>>>
>>>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>>>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>>>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>>>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it
>>>> down.
>>>
>>> Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
>>> Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
>>
>> 4 reasons: It's metal,
>
> If it can carry current, even a little, that seems like possibly
> inviting trouble, no?
>
No. Think about it Bill. What would be the difference if it were screwed
in?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
dpb wrote:
>
> Well, certainly do here -- although it's pulling in two (or maybe even
> three) 16-ft windrows for the baler to cut down passes instead of flat
> raking...
Back in the day, I used to double windrow in a really thin field, but most
of our fields were too dense for that. Can't imagine a triple, unless it's
for a second cutting.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 14:35:45 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>dpb wrote:
>
>>
>> Well, certainly do here -- although it's pulling in two (or maybe even
>> three) 16-ft windrows for the baler to cut down passes instead of flat
>> raking...
>
>Back in the day, I used to double windrow in a really thin field, but most
>of our fields were too dense for that. Can't imagine a triple, unless it's
>for a second cutting.
Some AWFULL crops in the midwest this year. I thought we had it dry
up here in Central Ontario - compared to indiana, illinois, michigan,
and Wisconsin we've got amost a swamp. Up here we are still getting a
crop - much of what I saw on our recent road trip is hardly worth
cutting.
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 20:18:08 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>>> (59th) with family.
>>>>
>>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>>>> air coming out of the vent.
>>>> Awshit.
>>>
>>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it
>>> down.
>>
>> Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
>> Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
>
> 4 reasons: It's metal, it's galvanized, it's cheap, and it has
> pre-drilled holes in it for ease in use.
> http://www.plumbingsupply.com/tapes.html scroll to "galvanized"
Other than you and that site, have never heard of strapping called "tape".
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
dpb wrote:
>
> AFAIK they never did go to live PTO at least until the 100-series in
> the mid-70s, anyway. One of the really, really, really bad things of
> them. But, they were the less expensive option on design and those
> were the ways they got them to be such. They did do a lot of work;
> they were pretty popular here in the 50s and 60s until Deere
> introduced the 4-cylinders w/ the 010 series and began to build the
> dominance they now have. Probably less than 20% now is other than
> Green around here.
Funny how that goes. I grew up outside of Albany, NY and everything was
red. The few green tractors you saw were split between Oliver and Deere.
Then... I eventually settled in Syracuse, and green is the color. Shows to
go ya, I guess... Very few orange tractors around here. Though, those who
do collect them or restore them, speak highly of them in certain respects.
They just never really took off and took over in the face of Deere around
here.
> The D-17 developed terrible oil leaks towards the end of its career
> here--Dad sold it and all the equipment in the auction when he
> retired. I've wished any number of times I had a couple of the
> smaller pieces for the garden since we came back to the farm after he
> died. Of course, for real work out here now that what we farmed with
> when growing up is just toy stuff...where it was a 4-row lister at
> 3-4 mph then, now it's 16-row minimum and some are up to as much as
> 48(!) and GPS at 7-8 mph. I plant in a morning what took most of week
> then.
Ain't that just the truth! It's always a joking matter when we sit around
and talk about what a typical day looked like when I was on the farm,
compared to what they get done in a day today. Shit... they don't even know
what a hay rake is today...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 14:43:51 -0400, Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>> >(59th) with family.
>> >
>> >Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>> >air coming out of the vent.
>> >Awshit.
>>
>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it down.
>>
>> Boy, am _I_ one happy SOB...now I can finish setting the limits on the
>> CNC router and start cutting some demo pieces.
>>
>
>Keeping my fingers crossed. Beware of pinch points, don't get hurt, wear
>clean underwear, have a clean hanky. Now comb your hair......
Me, too, and done, done, done, done, done, done.
>I'm all excited too. It's a fine moment to see your first piece. A
>thousand times more so when you made the machine yourself.
Yes, all that and more. I can't wait.
>Piccies soon I hope.
Maybe Sunday. I'm working all day tomorrow, too. After long days in
90-100F temps, I'm just too tired to work in the evening, even with
the cool shop again. I'm taking Sunday off to work on my own "stuff".
--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein
On 8/7/2012 2:20 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 06:39:48 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 8/7/2012 12:34 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>
>> Snip
>>
>>>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>>>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>>>
>>> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
>>> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
>>>
>>
>>
>> You will need help on this one. Take a picture of your hair before, and
>> get some one else to take a picture of your hair after you lick your
>> fingers. Have that other person post both pictures and let us analyze
>> for capacitor out put.
>
> ROTFL! 2 points, Leon. Some of your best writing yet, and no typoes!
>
> (OK, who transcribed it for you, hmmm?)
I reread it 6 times.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Larry Jaques wrote:
> > On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 23:37:59 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> Larry Jaques wrote:
> >>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
> >>> (59th) with family.
> >>>
> >>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
> >>> air coming out of the vent.
> >>> Awshit.
> >>>
> >>> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't running but the A/C
> >>> was. Hmm...
> >>>
> >>> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and there was
> >>> 239.8v across them.
> >>> OK so far.
> >>>
> >>> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very warm. OK,
> >>> it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I showered it with cool water
> >>> until it was cold.
> >>>
> >>> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no frozen bearings.
> >>> It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think it's being (somewhat)
> >>> energized. VOM confirms that below.
> >>>
> >>> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through each
> >>> contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan. Looks normal so
> >>> far.
> >>>
> >>> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it labored for
> >>> just over a second before the second click happened. It was fairly
> >>> quiet.
> >>>
> >>> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house, but it sounded
> >>> like the comp might be frozen. I took auto A/C in school in '72 so
> >>> it's very familiar in concept.
> >>>
> >>> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not engaged), low
> >>> pressure switch (dunno without gauge set), and thermistor switch (now
> >>> cooled with water, so doubtful as the culprit now.) System is ten
> >>> years + 4 months old and has never had a problem. I have the
> >>> installing company come out almost every year for a checkup but didn't
> >>> last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early on and some pieces
> >>> of insulation in the fan another time, but nothing else has been
> >>> required or done to it.
> >>>
> >>> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
> >>
> >> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
> >> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
> >
> > Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
> > capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
>
> I don't recall where I saw it, but when you find the place where they
> say "there are only two ways a capacitor can fail", you're getting close!
Well, to a certain extent. But anyone who ever saw a '50s-vintage oil
capacitor explode leaving a capacitor shaped cloud of smoke that slowly
poured off the table and onto the floor understands that "fail open"
covers a wide range of behaviors.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On 8/10/2012 10:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> > dpb wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Now I'm in the search for an obsolete snap ring according to Mr Deere
> >> for one of the tractors that for the want of which their suggestion
> >> is a $500 assembly to replace a 3" idler pulley bearing... :(
> >>
> >
> > What is obsolete about the snap ring? I keep a 1945 Allis Chalmers running
> > with everyday parts (sometimes...), and within the family, we keep many very
> > old tractors going. I do realize that there are some "unique" parts in
> > these old timers, but I can't imagine an obsolete snap ring - or at least
> > one that can't be replaced by what is available today. Got any additional
> > information?
>
> It's obsolete in JD parts (I'm guessing because Smalley Steel Ring
> bought out the original OEM Spiralox and Deere didn't bother to
> update/confirm the new vendor when the stock from the previous ran out.
>
> The problem is that they're the old style and a light-duty one that's to
> fit a 0.030" wide groove. All the standard stuff these days is 0.050".
>
> The machine shop I deal w/ guy called his distributor and they don't
> have the right size in stock and it's a hefty minimum order to the
> manufacturer and not sure about delivery after that. I have found
> another distributor and they actually have an office within 100 mi so a
> sweet-sounding thing is supposed to be working on seeing if she can get
> hands on a couple for me. Smalley has a link for requesting samples; I
> submitted a request but no indication yet whether they'll follow through
> or not.
>
> If all else fails, I'll take the pulley to the machine shop and have
> them recut the grooves to fit the 0.050" rings that one can get
> easily...if do have to go to factory minimum that'll be roughly
> equivalent cost and will end up w/ a more easily replaced one in the
> future if ever need it again...
>
> It's just the pita of it all...Mr Deere could just as easily found that
> Spiralox is now Smalley as I. Generally this doesn't happen much w/
> green but it did on this particular part.
>
> <http://www.smalley.com/part_lookup/part_lookup.asp>
>
> Put "VH 137" in the search box for the specific puppy needed...it's for
> a 1.375" bore internal. And, of course, if you just happen to have one
> in the parts drawer... :)
>
> Speaking of AC -- grandfather bought a little WD-45 way back when he was
> beginning to slow down some and thought he couldn't handle the Farmalls
> any longer but wanted to not give up entirely. We ended up w/ a whole
> line of the "Snap Coupler" equipment for it -- 4-row lister, knife sled,
> springtooth chisel, ... having had so much equipment, Dad traded it for
> a D-17 later on while I was still in HS and I did a _lot_ of row crop on
> that little thing. Eventually we went to the larger equipment and
> retired it from field work and put a frontend loader on it--it was a
> nice little loader tractor albeit a little low to the ground. I've kept
> my eyes out just for nostalgia but haven't sprung for one yet.... :)
Check out McMaster item 91663A640. It's .031 intended for a .039
groove. 11.20 for a pack of 10.
Personally I'd be tempted to just get a regular size ring and go after
it with a die grinder.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On 8/11/2012 9:06 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> ...
>
> > Check out McMaster item 91663A640. It's .031 intended for a .039
> > groove. 11.20 for a pack of 10.
>
> Need 0.025 for 0.030 groove...
>
> > Personally I'd be tempted to just get a regular size ring and go after
> > it with a die grinder.
>
> Found them in stock at Motion, Inc. thanks to a poster to a specific
> thread in r.c.metalworking; they're on their way.
>
> Ordered a half-dozen for 0.79/ea plus whatever USPS first class postage
> turns out to be.
>
> I'd have machine shop regrind a groove if push came to shove; wouldn't
> think of trying to hand machine such niceties on a power component
> myself; I'm just not that steady any longer... :(
Nahh, I wouldn't go after the groove, I'd go after the rings with it.
But then I'm nuts.
On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>(59th) with family.
>
>Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>air coming out of the vent.
>Awshit.
OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
Total monetary investment: $17.49
Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it down.
Boy, am _I_ one happy SOB...now I can finish setting the limits on the
CNC router and start cutting some demo pieces.
--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood
dpb wrote:
>
> Now I'm in the search for an obsolete snap ring according to Mr Deere
> for one of the tractors that for the want of which their suggestion
> is a $500 assembly to replace a 3" idler pulley bearing... :(
>
What is obsolete about the snap ring? I keep a 1945 Allis Chalmers running
with everyday parts (sometimes...), and within the family, we keep many very
old tractors going. I do realize that there are some "unique" parts in
these old timers, but I can't imagine an obsolete snap ring - or at least
one that can't be replaced by what is available today. Got any additional
information?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
dpb wrote:
>
> If all else fails, I'll take the pulley to the machine shop and have
> them recut the grooves to fit the 0.050" rings that one can get
> easily...if do have to go to factory minimum that'll be roughly
> equivalent cost and will end up w/ a more easily replaced one in the
> future if ever need it again...
That's what I would do. It does somewhat "destroy" the original value but
most people don't look that closely at things like that. Sure is better to
be able to run down the street for a part in the future...
>
> Speaking of AC -- grandfather bought a little WD-45 way back when he
> was beginning to slow down some and thought he couldn't handle the
> Farmalls any longer but wanted to not give up entirely. We ended up
> w/ a whole line of the "Snap Coupler" equipment for it -- 4-row
> lister, knife sled, springtooth chisel, ... having had so much
> equipment, Dad traded it for a D-17 later on while I was still in HS
> and I did a _lot_ of row crop on that little thing. Eventually we
> went to the larger equipment and retired it from field work and put a
> frontend loader on it--it was a nice little loader tractor albeit a
> little low to the ground. I've kept my eyes out just for nostalgia
> but haven't sprung for one yet.... :)
Mine is a WC. It lacks live PTO and hydraulics of course, but these days
its life is pretty much relegated to hauling firewood out of the woods in an
old converted manure spreader. I started to build a 3 point hitch for
it/hydralics, but never did finish that project. Imagine that! It's been a
good old girl through all of these years, and I really cannot complain about
it - for what it is.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 06:42:37 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 8/8/2012 10:36 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 20:18:08 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>>>>> (59th) with family.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>>>>>> air coming out of the vent.
>>>>>> Awshit.
>>>>>
>>>>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>>>>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>>>>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>>>>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it
>>>>> down.
>>>>
>>>> Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
>>>> Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
>>>
>>> 4 reasons: It's metal, it's galvanized, it's cheap, and it has
>>> pre-drilled holes in it for ease in use.
>>> http://www.plumbingsupply.com/tapes.html scroll to "galvanized"
>>
>> Other than you and that site, have never heard of strapping called "tape".
You poor, poor life-shielded kids.
>Yeah! LOL, Go to a plumbing supply and ask for plumbers tape and you
>get Teflon tape.
Not in any state I've ever lived in. If Texicus is that far behind
the curve, it's your duty to change that. I've never heard teflon
tape called anything but 'teflon tape', or maybe 'thread seal tape.'
The metal strapping had been nicknamed "plumber's tape" before I was a
boy. Ask any old plumber when he first heard the term. You'll see.
--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein
On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 06:39:48 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 8/7/2012 12:34 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>Snip
>
>>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>>
>> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
>> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
>>
>
>
>You will need help on this one. Take a picture of your hair before, and
>get some one else to take a picture of your hair after you lick your
>fingers. Have that other person post both pictures and let us analyze
>for capacitor out put.
ROTFL! 2 points, Leon. Some of your best writing yet, and no typoes!
(OK, who transcribed it for you, hmmm?)
--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood
On Tue, 7 Aug 2012 11:22:13 -0400, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>>
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> > On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 23:37:59 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> >>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>> >>> (59th) with family.
>> >>>
>> >>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>> >>> air coming out of the vent.
>> >>> Awshit.
>> >>>
>> >>> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't running but the A/C
>> >>> was. Hmm...
>> >>>
>> >>> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and there was
>> >>> 239.8v across them.
>> >>> OK so far.
>> >>>
>> >>> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very warm. OK,
>> >>> it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I showered it with cool water
>> >>> until it was cold.
>> >>>
>> >>> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no frozen bearings.
>> >>> It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think it's being (somewhat)
>> >>> energized. VOM confirms that below.
>> >>>
>> >>> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through each
>> >>> contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan. Looks normal so
>> >>> far.
>> >>>
>> >>> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it labored for
>> >>> just over a second before the second click happened. It was fairly
>> >>> quiet.
>> >>>
>> >>> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house, but it sounded
>> >>> like the comp might be frozen. I took auto A/C in school in '72 so
>> >>> it's very familiar in concept.
>> >>>
>> >>> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not engaged), low
>> >>> pressure switch (dunno without gauge set), and thermistor switch (now
>> >>> cooled with water, so doubtful as the culprit now.) System is ten
>> >>> years + 4 months old and has never had a problem. I have the
>> >>> installing company come out almost every year for a checkup but didn't
>> >>> last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early on and some pieces
>> >>> of insulation in the fan another time, but nothing else has been
>> >>> required or done to it.
>> >>>
>> >>> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
>> >>
>> >> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>> >> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>> >
>> > Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
>> > capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
>>
>> I don't recall where I saw it, but when you find the place where they
>> say "there are only two ways a capacitor can fail", you're getting close!
>
>Well, to a certain extent. But anyone who ever saw a '50s-vintage oil
>capacitor explode leaving a capacitor shaped cloud of smoke that slowly
>poured off the table and onto the floor understands that "fail open"
>covers a wide range of behaviors.
Tantalums next to the ear aren't any fun either, however I always loved the
smell of burning selenium in the morning.
On 8/8/2012 10:02 PM, Bill wrote:
> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 20:18:08 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>>>> (59th) with family.
>>>>>
>>>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>>>>> air coming out of the vent.
>>>>> Awshit.
>>>>
>>>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>>>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>>>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>>>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it down.
>>>
>>> Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
>>> Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
>>
>> 4 reasons: It's metal,
>
> If it can carry current, even a little, that seems like possibly
> inviting trouble, no?
>
I am not sure I have ever seen a capacitor ever attached by anything but
a metal retainer, many require a metal ground, take for instance the old
automotive style with only 1 wire connection.
On 8/8/2012 10:36 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 20:18:08 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>>>> (59th) with family.
>>>>>
>>>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>>>>> air coming out of the vent.
>>>>> Awshit.
>>>>
>>>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>>>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>>>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>>>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it
>>>> down.
>>>
>>> Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
>>> Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
>>
>> 4 reasons: It's metal, it's galvanized, it's cheap, and it has
>> pre-drilled holes in it for ease in use.
>> http://www.plumbingsupply.com/tapes.html scroll to "galvanized"
>
> Other than you and that site, have never heard of strapping called "tape".
>
Yeah! LOL, Go to a plumbing supply and ask for plumbers tape and you
get Teflon tape.
On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 23:37:59 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>> (59th) with family.
>>
>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>> air coming out of the vent.
>> Awshit.
>>
>> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't running but the A/C
>> was. Hmm...
>>
>> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and there was
>> 239.8v across them.
>> OK so far.
>>
>> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very warm. OK,
>> it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I showered it with cool water
>> until it was cold.
>>
>> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no frozen bearings.
>> It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think it's being (somewhat)
>> energized. VOM confirms that below.
>>
>> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through each
>> contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan. Looks normal so
>> far.
>>
>> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it labored for
>> just over a second before the second click happened. It was fairly
>> quiet.
>>
>> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house, but it sounded
>> like the comp might be frozen. I took auto A/C in school in '72 so
>> it's very familiar in concept.
>>
>> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not engaged), low
>> pressure switch (dunno without gauge set), and thermistor switch (now
>> cooled with water, so doubtful as the culprit now.) System is ten
>> years + 4 months old and has never had a problem. I have the
>> installing company come out almost every year for a checkup but didn't
>> last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early on and some pieces
>> of insulation in the fan another time, but nothing else has been
>> required or done to it.
>>
>> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
>
>You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood
On 8/7/2012 4:37 PM, Twayne wrote:
> In news:[email protected],
> Larry Jaques<[email protected]> typed:
>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice
>> birthday (59th) with family.
>>
>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I
>> felt warm air coming out of the vent.
>> Awshit.
>>
>> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't
>> running but the A/C was. Hmm...
>>
>> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and
>> there was 239.8v across them.
>> OK so far.
>>
>> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very
>> warm. OK, it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I
>> showered it with cool water until it was cold.
>>
>> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no
>> frozen bearings. It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think
>> it's being (somewhat) energized. VOM confirms that below.
>>
>> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through
>> each contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan.
>> Looks normal so far.
>>
>> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it
>> labored for just over a second before the second click
>> happened. It was fairly quiet.
>>
>> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house,
>> but it sounded like the comp might be frozen. I took
>> auto A/C in school in '72 so it's very familiar in
>> concept.
>>
>> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not
>> engaged), low pressure switch (dunno without gauge set),
>> and thermistor switch (now cooled with water, so doubtful
>> as the culprit now.) System is ten years + 4 months old
>> and has never had a problem. I have the installing
>> company come out almost every year for a checkup but
>> didn't last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early
>> on and some pieces of insulation in the fan another time,
>> but nothing else has been required or done to it.
>>
>> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
>
> uHH, 240 v ACROSS the fuse indicates it's BLOWN! There should be 0 or near 0
> Vac ACROSS the fuses!
>
> Time to check out E 101 again.
>
>
Now he has real troubles, because all the replacements fuses are shorted
out!
:^)
On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 14:40:28 -0400, Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 8/7/2012 2:20 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> > On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 06:39:48 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> >> On 8/7/2012 12:34 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Snip
>> >>
>> >>>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>> >>>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>> >>>
>> >>> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
>> >>> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> You will need help on this one. Take a picture of your hair before, and
>> >> get some one else to take a picture of your hair after you lick your
>> >> fingers. Have that other person post both pictures and let us analyze
>> >> for capacitor out put.
>> >
>> > ROTFL! 2 points, Leon. Some of your best writing yet, and no typoes!
>> >
>> > (OK, who transcribed it for you, hmmm?)
>>
>>
>> I reread it 6 times.
>
>output is one word.
I was just glad we got him typing in ENGLISH this time to count that
one, Toy.
(Good eye, though.)
--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein
On 8/7/2012 12:34 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Snip
>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>
> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
>
You will need help on this one. Take a picture of your hair before, and
get some one else to take a picture of your hair after you lick your
fingers. Have that other person post both pictures and let us analyze
for capacitor out put.
On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 13:05:12 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 8/10/2012 12:33 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>...
>
>> Funny how that goes. I grew up outside of Albany, NY and everything was
>> red. The few green tractors you saw were split between Oliver and Deere.
>> Then... I eventually settled in Syracuse, and green is the color. Shows to
>> go ya, I guess... Very few orange tractors around here. Though, those who
>> do collect them or restore them, speak highly of them in certain respects.
>> They just never really took off and took over in the face of Deere around
>> here.
>
>Allis was bought by Deutz sometime in the 80s after struggling mightily
>in the new era and then eventually again to Agco who sold Agco-Allis for
>awhile but by 2000 roughly the Allis name had disappeared entirely.
>
>Stuff was very mixed here in all shades in the early post-WWII years w/
>green and Farmall red the most dominant. But Case, M-Moline were well
>represented as well as Allis. Oliver green was pretty rare. A large
>fraction of what became popular in an area was dependent on the quality
>of the dealerships as much as the brand of the equipment itself. There
>were a few like my grandfather and father who refused to have a
>"Johnny-Pop" simply because they did not want to listen to it.
>Grandpa's first tractor was a Twin City (forerunner of M-Moline) and
>then a Case. There was a period in the 20s and 30s where all the row
>crop work was done w/ little Cat 22's -- they look like a relatively
>modern Cat that was left out in the rain and shrank. The were 22
>drawbar hp. Used them to pull a JD 3-row lister and cultivator. At one
>time I think they had at least four or five. The last one Dad sold
>while I was in school to a machine shop owner in town. The boy has
>restored it but it's now living in WY. I do want one of them for
>collecting. There are still quite a number in CA where they were used
>in the orchards a lot because of their low profile. They are pretty
>pricey if at all decent.
>
>IH/Farmall lost the war to Deere w/ the problems they had w/ their new
>line of larger tractors that had drastic rear end/tranny problems. We
>pulled the guts out of several 560s and 660s and after another failure
>w/ a "new, improved, can't out pull it" Dad had had enough and traded
>all the Red for Green at one time. We also got a Case 930 wheatland
>model at the same time for the flatground work. But, as Deere kept
>moving up and the others had trouble, green just took over. There never
>was a local Agco dealership after the mergers and everybody else faded
>away. The only orange is a few Kubotas that have sorta' taken the
>"low-priced spread" market. They are quite capable, just don't have the
>size to compete for other than utility work but make great frontend
>loader tractors, etc., ...
>>
>>
>...
>
>>> ...where it was a 4-row lister at
>>> 3-4 mph then, now it's 16-row minimum and some are up to as much as
>>> 48(!) and GPS at 7-8 mph. I plant in a morning what took most of week
>>> then.
>>
>> Ain't that just the truth! It's always a joking matter when we sit around
>> and talk about what a typical day looked like when I was on the farm,
>> compared to what they get done in a day today. Shit... they don't even know
>> what a hay rake is today...
>
>Well, certainly do here -- although it's pulling in two (or maybe even
>three) 16-ft windrows for the baler to cut down passes instead of flat
>raking...
I came by an old 45 Case VAI about 15 years ago and was amazed that
somebody had painted it John Deere colors. Still runs, and did a lot
of work when that was ll I had till a Cat 951 came my way. My
neighbor was an equipment manager for a large construction outfit and
it got lost on the way to auction for several years. The VAI is
mostly lawn art now since I got the backhoe and an excavator. My only
crop is trees.
Mike M
Larry Jaques wrote:
> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
> (59th) with family.
>
> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
> air coming out of the vent.
> Awshit.
>
> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't running but the A/C
> was. Hmm...
>
> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and there was
> 239.8v across them.
> OK so far.
>
> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very warm. OK,
> it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I showered it with cool water
> until it was cold.
>
> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no frozen bearings.
> It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think it's being (somewhat)
> energized. VOM confirms that below.
>
> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through each
> contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan. Looks normal so
> far.
>
> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it labored for
> just over a second before the second click happened. It was fairly
> quiet.
>
> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house, but it sounded
> like the comp might be frozen. I took auto A/C in school in '72 so
> it's very familiar in concept.
>
> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not engaged), low
> pressure switch (dunno without gauge set), and thermistor switch (now
> cooled with water, so doubtful as the culprit now.) System is ten
> years + 4 months old and has never had a problem. I have the
> installing company come out almost every year for a checkup but didn't
> last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early on and some pieces
> of insulation in the fan another time, but nothing else has been
> required or done to it.
>
> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
Bill
>
> --
> A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner, so if
> one's life is cold and bare he can blame none but himself.
> -- Louis L'Amour
>
On 8/6/2012 11:28 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
> (59th) with family.
>
> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
> air coming out of the vent.
> Awshit.
My AC was here when I moved to this house over 20 years ago. I don't
know how long it was here before that. Never had it checked but once
the fan on the compressor quit working and I had a buddy come over that
is a heating/cooling guy and he took the cover off and immediately
discovered a wasp nest built on the circuit board. He scraped it off
and all was well. That was about 10 years ago.
Just this week though I noticed the compressor was making a loud
scraping noise when it clicked on. Went out and the cement slab the
thing has been sitting on for a million years had sunk and the
compressor was not level. Got a maddox and pried up the slab and stuck
a couple of bricks under it, and it seems good to go, no more noise.
It's a Carrier, and when it goes, I'll get another Carrier I reckon.
Mine only clicks once I think, when it goes on. What is the second click?
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't running but the A/C
> was. Hmm...
>
> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and there was
> 239.8v across them.
> OK so far.
>
> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very warm. OK,
> it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I showered it with cool water
> until it was cold.
>
> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no frozen bearings.
> It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think it's being (somewhat)
> energized. VOM confirms that below.
>
> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through each
> contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan. Looks normal so
> far.
>
> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it labored for
> just over a second before the second click happened. It was fairly
> quiet.
>
> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house, but it sounded
> like the comp might be frozen. I took auto A/C in school in '72 so
> it's very familiar in concept.
>
> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not engaged), low
> pressure switch (dunno without gauge set), and thermistor switch (now
> cooled with water, so doubtful as the culprit now.) System is ten
> years + 4 months old and has never had a problem. I have the
> installing company come out almost every year for a checkup but didn't
> last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early on and some pieces
> of insulation in the fan another time, but nothing else has been
> required or done to it.
>
> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
>
> --
> A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner, so if
> one's life is cold and bare he can blame none but himself.
> -- Louis L'Amour
>
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 23:37:59 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>> (59th) with family.
>>>
>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>>> air coming out of the vent.
>>> Awshit.
>>>
>>> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't running but the A/C
>>> was. Hmm...
>>>
>>> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and there was
>>> 239.8v across them.
>>> OK so far.
>>>
>>> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very warm. OK,
>>> it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I showered it with cool water
>>> until it was cold.
>>>
>>> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no frozen bearings.
>>> It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think it's being (somewhat)
>>> energized. VOM confirms that below.
>>>
>>> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through each
>>> contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan. Looks normal so
>>> far.
>>>
>>> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it labored for
>>> just over a second before the second click happened. It was fairly
>>> quiet.
>>>
>>> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house, but it sounded
>>> like the comp might be frozen. I took auto A/C in school in '72 so
>>> it's very familiar in concept.
>>>
>>> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not engaged), low
>>> pressure switch (dunno without gauge set), and thermistor switch (now
>>> cooled with water, so doubtful as the culprit now.) System is ten
>>> years + 4 months old and has never had a problem. I have the
>>> installing company come out almost every year for a checkup but didn't
>>> last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early on and some pieces
>>> of insulation in the fan another time, but nothing else has been
>>> required or done to it.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
>>
>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>
> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
I don't recall where I saw it, but when you find the place where they
say "there are only two ways a capacitor can fail", you're getting close!
>
>
> --
> Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
> whereas I am merely in disguise.
> -- Margaret Atwood
>
In news:[email protected],
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> typed:
> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice
> birthday (59th) with family.
>
> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I
> felt warm air coming out of the vent.
> Awshit.
>
> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't
> running but the A/C was. Hmm...
>
> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and
> there was 239.8v across them.
> OK so far.
>
> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very
> warm. OK, it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I
> showered it with cool water until it was cold.
>
> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no
> frozen bearings. It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think
> it's being (somewhat) energized. VOM confirms that below.
>
> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through
> each contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan.
> Looks normal so far.
>
> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it
> labored for just over a second before the second click
> happened. It was fairly quiet.
>
> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house,
> but it sounded like the comp might be frozen. I took
> auto A/C in school in '72 so it's very familiar in
> concept.
>
> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not
> engaged), low pressure switch (dunno without gauge set),
> and thermistor switch (now cooled with water, so doubtful
> as the culprit now.) System is ten years + 4 months old
> and has never had a problem. I have the installing
> company come out almost every year for a checkup but
> didn't last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early
> on and some pieces of insulation in the fan another time,
> but nothing else has been required or done to it.
>
> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
uHH, 240 v ACROSS the fuse indicates it's BLOWN! There should be 0 or near 0
Vac ACROSS the fuses!
Time to check out E 101 again.
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>> (59th) with family.
>>
>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>> air coming out of the vent.
>> Awshit.
>
> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
> Total monetary investment: $17.49
> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it down.
Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
>
> Boy, am _I_ one happy SOB...now I can finish setting the limits on the
> CNC router and start cutting some demo pieces.
>
> --
> Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
> whereas I am merely in disguise.
> -- Margaret Atwood
>
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 20:18:08 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>>> (59th) with family.
>>>>
>>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>>>> air coming out of the vent.
>>>> Awshit.
>>>
>>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it down.
>>
>> Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
>> Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
>
> 4 reasons: It's metal,
If it can carry current, even a little, that seems like possibly
inviting trouble, no?
it's galvanized, it's cheap, and it has
> pre-drilled holes in it for ease in use.
> http://www.plumbingsupply.com/tapes.html scroll to "galvanized"
>
> --
> We are always the same age inside.
> -- Gertrude Stein
>
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 20:18:08 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>>>>> (59th) with family.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt
>>>>>> warm air coming out of the vent.
>>>>>> Awshit.
>>>>>
>>>>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>>>>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>>>>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>>>>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it
>>>>> down.
>>>>
>>>> Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
>>>> Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
>>>
>>> 4 reasons: It's metal,
>>
>> If it can carry current, even a little, that seems like possibly
>> inviting trouble, no?
>>
>
> No. Think about it Bill. What would be the difference if it were screwed
> in?
>
There are wires passing all over and around that thing. Why toss in a
piece of conductive material???
>
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 23:37:59 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>
> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
Larry, Based on your experience, and my experience of paying $280 for my
first A/C capacitor (installed) a couple years ago, I picked up one of
those newfangled-meters for myself today (Sperry DV6450), slightly on
sale at Menards. I hope I can even learn something from it.
I don't think my hair long enough for your regular test!
Bill
On 8/6/2012 10:28 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
> (59th) with family.
>
> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
> air coming out of the vent.
> Awshit.
...
I just spent all day earlier this week working lime deposits out of the
return feed tubes on top of the large chiller on the education building
at the church, then unplugging all the holes on the radiators...it's
roughly 5-ft high x 8-ft long w/ radiator surface on both faces...
Got call from the preacher that water was pouring down the roof drains
the previous evening--had plugged so badly was just dumping water.
Removed several buckets-full of "egg shell".
That's after the purge valve on the PU had failed and the fuel pump had
collapsed the gas tank so spent the day before that replacing it...
Now I'm in the search for an obsolete snap ring according to Mr Deere
for one of the tractors that for the want of which their suggestion is a
$500 assembly to replace a 3" idler pulley bearing... :(
Meanwhile, the mod's to the DC for remote access to get the planer to
quit throwing chips all over everywhere which was a wanted perk before
starting the box I promised DIL for her father's ashes for a memorial
sometime this summer are on hold while everything else breaks...
"It's always _something_ ... "
--
On 8/10/2012 10:12 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> dpb wrote:
>
>>
>> Now I'm in the search for an obsolete snap ring according to Mr Deere
>> for one of the tractors that for the want of which their suggestion
>> is a $500 assembly to replace a 3" idler pulley bearing... :(
>>
>
> What is obsolete about the snap ring? I keep a 1945 Allis Chalmers running
> with everyday parts (sometimes...), and within the family, we keep many very
> old tractors going. I do realize that there are some "unique" parts in
> these old timers, but I can't imagine an obsolete snap ring - or at least
> one that can't be replaced by what is available today. Got any additional
> information?
It's obsolete in JD parts (I'm guessing because Smalley Steel Ring
bought out the original OEM Spiralox and Deere didn't bother to
update/confirm the new vendor when the stock from the previous ran out.
The problem is that they're the old style and a light-duty one that's to
fit a 0.030" wide groove. All the standard stuff these days is 0.050".
The machine shop I deal w/ guy called his distributor and they don't
have the right size in stock and it's a hefty minimum order to the
manufacturer and not sure about delivery after that. I have found
another distributor and they actually have an office within 100 mi so a
sweet-sounding thing is supposed to be working on seeing if she can get
hands on a couple for me. Smalley has a link for requesting samples; I
submitted a request but no indication yet whether they'll follow through
or not.
If all else fails, I'll take the pulley to the machine shop and have
them recut the grooves to fit the 0.050" rings that one can get
easily...if do have to go to factory minimum that'll be roughly
equivalent cost and will end up w/ a more easily replaced one in the
future if ever need it again...
It's just the pita of it all...Mr Deere could just as easily found that
Spiralox is now Smalley as I. Generally this doesn't happen much w/
green but it did on this particular part.
<http://www.smalley.com/part_lookup/part_lookup.asp>
Put "VH 137" in the search box for the specific puppy needed...it's for
a 1.375" bore internal. And, of course, if you just happen to have one
in the parts drawer... :)
Speaking of AC -- grandfather bought a little WD-45 way back when he was
beginning to slow down some and thought he couldn't handle the Farmalls
any longer but wanted to not give up entirely. We ended up w/ a whole
line of the "Snap Coupler" equipment for it -- 4-row lister, knife sled,
springtooth chisel, ... having had so much equipment, Dad traded it for
a D-17 later on while I was still in HS and I did a _lot_ of row crop on
that little thing. Eventually we went to the larger equipment and
retired it from field work and put a frontend loader on it--it was a
nice little loader tractor albeit a little low to the ground. I've kept
my eyes out just for nostalgia but haven't sprung for one yet.... :)
--
On 8/10/2012 10:48 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> dpb wrote:
>
>>
>> If all else fails, I'll take the pulley to the machine shop and have
>> them recut the grooves to fit the 0.050" rings that one can get
>> easily...if do have to go to factory minimum that'll be roughly
>> equivalent cost and will end up w/ a more easily replaced one in the
>> future if ever need it again...
>
> That's what I would do. It does somewhat "destroy" the original value but
> most people don't look that closely at things like that. Sure is better to
> be able to run down the street for a part in the future...
There's no way anybody would ever be able to tell w/o completely
disassembling it and I certainly don't keep stuff for collector-purposes
as vintage collector. It's used, not admired... :)
...
>> Speaking of AC -- grandfather bought a little WD-45 way back ...
>> ... Dad traded it for a D-17 later on while I was still in HS
...
> Mine is a WC. It lacks live PTO and hydraulics of course, but these days
> its life is pretty much relegated to hauling firewood out of the woods in an
> old converted manure spreader. I started to build a 3 point hitch for
> it/hydralics, but never did finish that project. Imagine that! It's been a
> good old girl through all of these years, and I really cannot complain about
> it - for what it is.
AFAIK they never did go to live PTO at least until the 100-series in the
mid-70s, anyway. One of the really, really, really bad things of them.
But, they were the less expensive option on design and those were the
ways they got them to be such. They did do a lot of work; they were
pretty popular here in the 50s and 60s until Deere introduced the
4-cylinders w/ the 010 series and began to build the dominance they now
have. Probably less than 20% now is other than Green around here.
The D-17 developed terrible oil leaks towards the end of its career
here--Dad sold it and all the equipment in the auction when he retired.
I've wished any number of times I had a couple of the smaller pieces
for the garden since we came back to the farm after he died. Of course,
for real work out here now that what we farmed with when growing up is
just toy stuff...where it was a 4-row lister at 3-4 mph then, now it's
16-row minimum and some are up to as much as 48(!) and GPS at 7-8 mph.
I plant in a morning what took most of week then.
--
On 8/10/2012 12:33 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
...
> Funny how that goes. I grew up outside of Albany, NY and everything was
> red. The few green tractors you saw were split between Oliver and Deere.
> Then... I eventually settled in Syracuse, and green is the color. Shows to
> go ya, I guess... Very few orange tractors around here. Though, those who
> do collect them or restore them, speak highly of them in certain respects.
> They just never really took off and took over in the face of Deere around
> here.
Allis was bought by Deutz sometime in the 80s after struggling mightily
in the new era and then eventually again to Agco who sold Agco-Allis for
awhile but by 2000 roughly the Allis name had disappeared entirely.
Stuff was very mixed here in all shades in the early post-WWII years w/
green and Farmall red the most dominant. But Case, M-Moline were well
represented as well as Allis. Oliver green was pretty rare. A large
fraction of what became popular in an area was dependent on the quality
of the dealerships as much as the brand of the equipment itself. There
were a few like my grandfather and father who refused to have a
"Johnny-Pop" simply because they did not want to listen to it.
Grandpa's first tractor was a Twin City (forerunner of M-Moline) and
then a Case. There was a period in the 20s and 30s where all the row
crop work was done w/ little Cat 22's -- they look like a relatively
modern Cat that was left out in the rain and shrank. The were 22
drawbar hp. Used them to pull a JD 3-row lister and cultivator. At one
time I think they had at least four or five. The last one Dad sold
while I was in school to a machine shop owner in town. The boy has
restored it but it's now living in WY. I do want one of them for
collecting. There are still quite a number in CA where they were used
in the orchards a lot because of their low profile. They are pretty
pricey if at all decent.
IH/Farmall lost the war to Deere w/ the problems they had w/ their new
line of larger tractors that had drastic rear end/tranny problems. We
pulled the guts out of several 560s and 660s and after another failure
w/ a "new, improved, can't out pull it" Dad had had enough and traded
all the Red for Green at one time. We also got a Case 930 wheatland
model at the same time for the flatground work. But, as Deere kept
moving up and the others had trouble, green just took over. There never
was a local Agco dealership after the mergers and everybody else faded
away. The only orange is a few Kubotas that have sorta' taken the
"low-priced spread" market. They are quite capable, just don't have the
size to compete for other than utility work but make great frontend
loader tractors, etc., ...
>
>
...
>> ...where it was a 4-row lister at
>> 3-4 mph then, now it's 16-row minimum and some are up to as much as
>> 48(!) and GPS at 7-8 mph. I plant in a morning what took most of week
>> then.
>
> Ain't that just the truth! It's always a joking matter when we sit around
> and talk about what a typical day looked like when I was on the farm,
> compared to what they get done in a day today. Shit... they don't even know
> what a hay rake is today...
Well, certainly do here -- although it's pulling in two (or maybe even
three) 16-ft windrows for the baler to cut down passes instead of flat
raking...
--
On 8/10/2012 1:35 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> dpb wrote:
>
>>
>> Well, certainly do here -- although it's pulling in two (or maybe even
>> three) 16-ft windrows for the baler to cut down passes instead of flat
>> raking...
>
> Back in the day, I used to double windrow in a really thin field, but most
> of our fields were too dense for that. Can't imagine a triple, unless it's
> for a second cutting.
Well, it rains back there... :)
Our -average- annual is 18" or just a shade over.
Irrigated will do much better, of course, but this is for dryland grass...
This year there isn't any at all owing to the drought. We've not had 3"
since April.
--
On 8/11/2012 9:06 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
...
> Check out McMaster item 91663A640. It's .031 intended for a .039
> groove. 11.20 for a pack of 10.
Need 0.025 for 0.030 groove...
> Personally I'd be tempted to just get a regular size ring and go after
> it with a die grinder.
Found them in stock at Motion, Inc. thanks to a poster to a specific
thread in r.c.metalworking; they're on their way.
Ordered a half-dozen for 0.79/ea plus whatever USPS first class postage
turns out to be.
I'd have machine shop regrind a groove if push came to shove; wouldn't
think of trying to hand machine such niceties on a power component
myself; I'm just not that steady any longer... :(
--
On 8/10/2012 3:39 PM, Mike M wrote:
...
> ... My only crop is trees.
Trees are verboten in CRP grass--they're invasive exotics, iow 'weeds'. :)
The introduced trees around farmsteads, windbreaks, etc., are spread by
wind and birds, deer, etc., and will take over if not controlled. It's
been estimated this area burned naturally about every 7-10 years on
average and the plains Indians on occasion burned in springtime as well
to promote early greenup and return of the buffalo. That kept the
plains almost completely devoid of any trees.
Particularly cedars and in low areas along the riverbeds tamarisk are
the worst followed by Russian olive and Siberian elms. The cottonwood
is native species but has spread greatly. Native grass
pastures/rangeland are being reclaimed as ranchers have become aware of
how much grazing is lost to ground cover and the loss of water to them
instead of being available for the native grasses. Some areas after a
few years since removal have even seen the regeneration of surface water
that had long since ceased owing to the siphoning away of it by the
heavy growth.
--
On 8/12/2012 11:22 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
...
> Nahh, I wouldn't go after the groove, I'd go after the rings with it.
> But then I'm nuts.
Yeah, I'd agree... :)
The machine-shop guy initially said he'd try give a shot on the surface
grinder but wasn't sure he could keep it in place. I asked if he
couldn't chuck up the pulley (it's just a 3 or 4" drive clutch idler so
not a biggie) and do the groove easier and he allowed as that was so.
If I were to try it I'd take double-sided tape and stick it on the bench
and take a emery belt on the belt sander to it as a first shot.
But, Derrick did know they were Spirolox and altho his distributor
didn't have them in stock that did lead me to discovering that Smalley
Steel Ring had bought out Spirolox and a usenet denizen on the
metalworking group used his account at Motion Industries to look 'em up.
I then discovered they have a branch office in Dodge City and called
them figuring (rightly as it turned out) that a more local presence
would get me more sympathy as a self-employed farmer in the area since
wasn't able to get past the telephone menuing system at their corporate
offices...
Anyway, the bearings are reinstalled awaiting the ring to put it back
together. I tried salvaging the old one but it was sprung too badly to
go back into the groove after the abuse it suffered in managing to get
it out...
--
On 8/6/2012 10:37 PM, Bill wrote:
> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>> (59th) with family.
>>
>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>> air coming out of the vent.
>> Awshit.
>>
>> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't running but the A/C
>> was. Hmm...
>>
>> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and there was
>> 239.8v across them.
>> OK so far.
>>
>> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very warm. OK,
>> it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I showered it with cool water
>> until it was cold.
>>
>> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no frozen bearings.
>> It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think it's being (somewhat)
>> energized. VOM confirms that below.
>>
>> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through each
>> contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan. Looks normal so
>> far.
>>
>> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it labored for
>> just over a second before the second click happened. It was fairly
>> quiet.
>>
>> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house, but it sounded
>> like the comp might be frozen. I took auto A/C in school in '72 so
>> it's very familiar in concept.
>>
>> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not engaged), low
>> pressure switch (dunno without gauge set), and thermistor switch (now
>> cooled with water, so doubtful as the culprit now.) System is ten
>> years + 4 months old and has never had a problem. I have the
>> installing company come out almost every year for a checkup but didn't
>> last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early on and some pieces
>> of insulation in the fan another time, but nothing else has been
>> required or done to it.
>>
>> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
>
> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>
> Bill
>
>>
Big +1
On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 20:18:08 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>> (59th) with family.
>>>
>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>>> air coming out of the vent.
>>> Awshit.
>>
>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it down.
>
>Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
>Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
4 reasons: It's metal, it's galvanized, it's cheap, and it has
pre-drilled holes in it for ease in use.
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/tapes.html scroll to "galvanized"
--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein
On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 01:49:15 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 23:37:59 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>>> (59th) with family.
>>>>
>>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>>>> air coming out of the vent.
>>>> Awshit.
>>>>
>>>> Took a listen outside and the condenser fan wasn't running but the A/C
>>>> was. Hmm...
>>>>
>>>> Took a VOM out and found that the two fuses were fine and there was
>>>> 239.8v across them.
>>>> OK so far.
>>>>
>>>> Felt the top of the condenser fan mount and found it very warm. OK,
>>>> it's 90 out, it'll be warm in the sun. I showered it with cool water
>>>> until it was cold.
>>>>
>>>> Popped the bolts loose and the fan spins freely, no frozen bearings.
>>>> It has a 60Hz hum feel to it so I think it's being (somewhat)
>>>> energized. VOM confirms that below.
>>>>
>>>> Start relay has 24v from the thermostat and 119v through each
>>>> contactor and through the start cap to comp and fan. Looks normal so
>>>> far.
>>>>
>>>> Then I heard a click and the compressor sounded like it labored for
>>>> just over a second before the second click happened. It was fairly
>>>> quiet.
>>>>
>>>> I've never troubleshot a compressor system in a house, but it sounded
>>>> like the comp might be frozen. I took auto A/C in school in '72 so
>>>> it's very familiar in concept.
>>>>
>>>> I see that there is a high-pressure switch (probably not engaged), low
>>>> pressure switch (dunno without gauge set), and thermistor switch (now
>>>> cooled with water, so doubtful as the culprit now.) System is ten
>>>> years + 4 months old and has never had a problem. I have the
>>>> installing company come out almost every year for a checkup but didn't
>>>> last year. They found a loose squirrel cage early on and some pieces
>>>> of insulation in the fan another time, but nothing else has been
>>>> required or done to it.
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts, boys and girls?
>>>
>>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>>
>> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
>> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
>
>I don't recall where I saw it, but when you find the place where they
>say "there are only two ways a capacitor can fail", you're getting close!
Some of the oil from the capacitor is outside the case. Could that be
a clue? I have a replacement lined up tomorrow. A buddy has a spare
cap and motor if necessary.
--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood
On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 23:02:52 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 20:18:08 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
>>>>> (59th) with family.
>>>>>
>>>>> Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
>>>>> air coming out of the vent.
>>>>> Awshit.
>>>>
>>>> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
>>>> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
>>>> Total monetary investment: $17.49
>>>> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it down.
>>>
>>> Congrats on your inexpensive repair!
>>> Just curious (and maybe I need to use some), why plumber's tape?
>>
>> 4 reasons: It's metal,
>
>If it can carry current, even a little, that seems like possibly
>inviting trouble, no?
It's a metal-cased capacitor grounded to a metal HVAC housing.
What's to worry about? The original was metal, too.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/GENTEQ-Motor-Run-Capacitor-5CMZ3?Pid=search
--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein
On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 17:19:27 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 23:37:59 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
>>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
>>
>> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
>> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
>
>
>Larry, Based on your experience, and my experience of paying $280 for my
>first A/C capacitor (installed) a couple years ago, I picked up one of
>those newfangled-meters for myself today (Sperry DV6450), slightly on
>sale at Menards. I hope I can even learn something from it.
>
>I don't think my hair long enough for your regular test!
It doesn't matter how long your hair is. Humans aren't built for cap
testing via fingers. I accidentally caught the lead of an 800v cap in
a monitor when I was training at Coleman College. I had a knot of scar
tissue in my finger there for years, even though the incident was over
in a split second.
http://tinyurl.com/9k8zkl9 Best bang for the bucks.
--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein
In article <[email protected]>,
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> On 8/7/2012 2:20 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> > On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 06:39:48 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> On 8/7/2012 12:34 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> >>
> >> Snip
> >>
> >>>> You checked the compressor capacitor, right? You're way more
> >>>> knowledgable about A/C than I am so that's all I can offer...
> >>>
> >>> Y'know, I think that newfangled meter I bought just might have a
> >>> capacitance meter built in, or if I just lick my fingers and...
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> You will need help on this one. Take a picture of your hair before, and
> >> get some one else to take a picture of your hair after you lick your
> >> fingers. Have that other person post both pictures and let us analyze
> >> for capacitor out put.
> >
> > ROTFL! 2 points, Leon. Some of your best writing yet, and no typoes!
> >
> > (OK, who transcribed it for you, hmmm?)
>
>
> I reread it 6 times.
output is one word.
In article <[email protected]>,
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:28:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I just got back from Californy today, where I had a nice birthday
> >(59th) with family.
> >
> >Home and shop A/C was working fine until about 6pm when I felt warm
> >air coming out of the vent.
> >Awshit.
>
> OK, I have coolth in the shop once again this afternoon.
> Total troubleshooting/repair time: 2 hours.
> Total monetary investment: $17.49
> Parts replaced: One dual cap and some plumber's tape to strap it down.
>
> Boy, am _I_ one happy SOB...now I can finish setting the limits on the
> CNC router and start cutting some demo pieces.
>
> --
> Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
> whereas I am merely in disguise.
> -- Margaret Atwood
Keeping my fingers crossed. Beware of pinch points, don't get hurt, wear
clean underwear, have a clean hanky. Now comb your hair......
I'm all excited too. It's a fine moment to see your first piece. A
thousand times more so when you made the machine yourself.
Piccies soon I hope.