krw <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
> Will the table mounting holes hold the weight of the rest of the saw?
> The forces are the opposite of normal. A sling under is easy enough
> but as others have pointed out, the saw is top heavy. Top becoming
> bottom when in mid air wouldn't be good.
When I was assembling my Ridgid TS3660, the first parts of assembly were
done with the top on the bottom, then once the legs were added the saw
was inverted.
Since you're transporting the saw, something similar could probably be
done with yours. Depending on how the motor is mounted, it may need to
be removed (mine would). You could then invert the saw and put the bulk
of the weight on the bottom. If you're worried about straps or something
damaging the top, try putting a piece of foam over the top to protect it.
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
On Fri, 11 Sep 2009 14:52:50 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>Ignoramus10071 wrote:
>...
>
>> I can, however, put slings under the base.
>
>Better choice if rig for tipover as the motor is mounted pretty high and
>is the bulk, of the weight w/ the top.
>
>The table right at the mounting locations would be fine if you can get
>the straps there; what you definitely don't want to do is use the
>wings--they'll undoubtedly hold it for that long but may well warp them
>a little.
First of all, thank you all for this thread.
I'm thinking about turning the unfinished room over the garage (UROG?)
into a shop and the garage back into a garage. That means moving the
Unisaw upstairs. The only way I see to do this is hoisting it up
through a trap door (yet to be installed). The trap door would also
be used to get material up to "finish" the room (and of course raw
sawdust). Moving the saw is my only real concern though.
>For more secure lifts where had farther to go (like a loft shop, for
>instance), I've removed the top and used lift-rated eyebolts in the
>mounting holes.
Will the table mounting holes hold the weight of the rest of the saw?
The forces are the opposite of normal. A sling under is easy enough
but as others have pointed out, the saw is top heavy. Top becoming
bottom when in mid air wouldn't be good.
Ignoramus10071 <[email protected]> writes:
>On 2009-09-11, Ignoramus10071 <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 2009-09-11, Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> In article <[email protected]>, Ignoramus10071 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>Can a Delta Unisaw be safely lifted with a sling under the table.
>>>
>>> Cast iron doesn't have terribly high tensile strength. I sure wouldn't try it.
>>>>
>>>>If not, how do you lift it safely.
>>>
>>> Depends partly on how high you need to lift it, and for how long -- and if you
>>> need to move it while it's off the ground. If you need to lift it half an inch
>>> to retrieve some valuable item that rolled underneath it, wedges under the
>>> edge of the cabinet should do just fine. If you need to hoist it out of a
>>> basement, that's a different story.
>>>
>>> Either way, though, I wouldn't put any stress at all on the table.
>>
>> I want to forklift it into a pickup truck. It is at a factory now and
>> I will be picking it up tomorrow. So I thought to put slings under the
>> table and lift it with the forklift forks hooked up to the slings. Now
>> it seems like it is a bad idea.
>
>Just to clarify myself and answer "why can't you put forks under the
>base".
>
>These guys have a loading dock for semi trucks that is higher than my
>truck's bed. So they cannot lower it into my truck from the top of the
>loading dock. Their forklift is not at ground level.
Some forklifts will lower the forks below wheel level; put the wheels on
the lip of the dock and lower away.
Other suggestions:
- use a dockplate.
- Floorjack and jackstands for your pickup to level the bed with
the dock.
- A sling lift under the base would work, if a bit unstable.
scott
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> (I use the space for staining and painting) but the center beam sticks
> up in the middle. I'm sure it'll take the 600lbs. ;-)
You're putting a lot of worry into this. Maybe it might be easier for you to
strip the saw as you're able and then hire a couple of movers to do the job
for you. A couple of hours decent pay at most should be sufficient. What are
you looking at? Maybe $200. Not a great deal. And if they can move huge
refrigerators and pianos, they can sure move a table saw for you.
On 2009-09-11, Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Ignoramus10071 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>Can a Delta Unisaw be safely lifted with a sling under the table.
>
> Cast iron doesn't have terribly high tensile strength. I sure wouldn't try it.
>>
>>If not, how do you lift it safely.
>
> Depends partly on how high you need to lift it, and for how long -- and if you
> need to move it while it's off the ground. If you need to lift it half an inch
> to retrieve some valuable item that rolled underneath it, wedges under the
> edge of the cabinet should do just fine. If you need to hoist it out of a
> basement, that's a different story.
>
> Either way, though, I wouldn't put any stress at all on the table.
I want to forklift it into a pickup truck. It is at a factory now and
I will be picking it up tomorrow. So I thought to put slings under the
table and lift it with the forklift forks hooked up to the slings. Now
it seems like it is a bad idea.
i
On 2009-09-12, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
> That isn't at all a concern in this space. ;-) I have no idea why
> the builder did it (the house was built in '07), but it's not a long
> span at all. The floor joists are 2x12s (16" O.C.), half the span
> with a (gotta be) 20"x6"x22' (?) wood beam down the center. So the
> 2x12s span perhaps 12'. On top of that (because of the beam sticking
> up in the middle), I'll have to put 2x6s, perhaps 2x8s crossways to
> get the floor above the beam. There is currently an OSB floor there
> (I use the space for staining and painting) but the center beam sticks
> up in the middle. I'm sure it'll take the 600lbs. ;-)
You can do yourself a huge favor if you buy a electric hoist.
i
On 2009-09-11, Ignoramus10071 <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 2009-09-11, Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>, Ignoramus10071 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>Can a Delta Unisaw be safely lifted with a sling under the table.
>>
>> Cast iron doesn't have terribly high tensile strength. I sure wouldn't try it.
>>>
>>>If not, how do you lift it safely.
>>
>> Depends partly on how high you need to lift it, and for how long -- and if you
>> need to move it while it's off the ground. If you need to lift it half an inch
>> to retrieve some valuable item that rolled underneath it, wedges under the
>> edge of the cabinet should do just fine. If you need to hoist it out of a
>> basement, that's a different story.
>>
>> Either way, though, I wouldn't put any stress at all on the table.
>
> I want to forklift it into a pickup truck. It is at a factory now and
> I will be picking it up tomorrow. So I thought to put slings under the
> table and lift it with the forklift forks hooked up to the slings. Now
> it seems like it is a bad idea.
Just to clarify myself and answer "why can't you put forks under the
base".
These guys have a loading dock for semi trucks that is higher than my
truck's bed. So they cannot lower it into my truck from the top of the
loading dock. Their forklift is not at ground level.
I can, however, put slings under the base.
i
Two good legitimate approaches:
1. Turn the saw upside down. Put on pallet or slide onto a
blanket or cardboard. I have a good friend who is a cabinet maker
who takes his unisaw to work in his van this way quite normally.
2. Take the top off. Do NOT sling or load by the trunnions.
Sling or carry by the case.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Ignoramus10071" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> Can a Delta Unisaw be safely lifted with a sling under the
> table.
>
> If not, how do you lift it safely.
>
> thanks
>
> i
"Ignoramus10071" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Just to clarify myself and answer "why can't you put forks under the
> base".
>
> These guys have a loading dock for semi trucks that is higher than my
> truck's bed. So they cannot lower it into my truck from the top of the
> loading dock. Their forklift is not at ground level.
>
> I can, however, put slings under the base.
>
> i
IIRC most loading docks have loading ramps so that a fork lift can actually
drive onto multi height trailers. Could they not put the ramp down to your
truck and "hand truck" it down the ramp?
On 12 Sep 2009 08:40:36 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>krw <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>*snip*
>
>> Will the table mounting holes hold the weight of the rest of the saw?
>> The forces are the opposite of normal. A sling under is easy enough
>> but as others have pointed out, the saw is top heavy. Top becoming
>> bottom when in mid air wouldn't be good.
>
>When I was assembling my Ridgid TS3660, the first parts of assembly were
>done with the top on the bottom, then once the legs were added the saw
>was inverted.
I came pretty much assembled, except for the wings and extension
table.
>Since you're transporting the saw, something similar could probably be
>done with yours. Depending on how the motor is mounted, it may need to
>be removed (mine would). You could then invert the saw and put the bulk
>of the weight on the bottom. If you're worried about straps or something
>damaging the top, try putting a piece of foam over the top to protect it.
As others pointed out, the motor is likely too much of a PITA to
remove. Your idea of hoisting it inverted is a good one though.
Removing the top would eliminate any chance of warping and hoisting it
inverted would put the center of mass at the bottom.
"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> There are only 4 bolts holding the top on. Removing these will let
> you take off the top with the fence attached if you like. Then you
> can easily move the box and motor with a two wheel dolly.
I missed the beginning of this thread. Is this a contractor style saw or a
cabinet saw? If it's contractor style, it should be too difficult to remove
the motor too, eliminated a significant amount of weight and reducing the
bulkiness of the saw.
"Ignoramus10071" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> here's a picture.
>
http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/misc/ebay/Delta-Unisaw/Delta-Unisaw-0020.jpg
I'd agree then, removing the motor would be too much aggravation. As
suggested, removing the table top and wings seems the most prudent option
for transport. The rest ~ just make sure you don't crush any fingers and are
wearing steel toed boots.
You can see by this thread that many here are way overcomplicating this. It
was sugested that you remove the table and screw lifting eyes int the table
mounting holes. Good forged lifting eyes in the holes will suppoort the saw
and two guys riding on it. Fast, easy and safe.
Make it only as complicated as it has to be. Anything more is a waste of
time.
"Ignoramus10071" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can a Delta Unisaw be safely lifted with a sling under the table.
>
> If not, how do you lift it safely.
>
> thanks
>
> i
In article <[email protected]>, Ignoramus10071 <[email protected]> wrote:
>Can a Delta Unisaw be safely lifted with a sling under the table.
Cast iron doesn't have terribly high tensile strength. I sure wouldn't try it.
>
>If not, how do you lift it safely.
Depends partly on how high you need to lift it, and for how long -- and if you
need to move it while it's off the ground. If you need to lift it half an inch
to retrieve some valuable item that rolled underneath it, wedges under the
edge of the cabinet should do just fine. If you need to hoist it out of a
basement, that's a different story.
Either way, though, I wouldn't put any stress at all on the table.
Ignoramus10071 wrote:
...
> I can, however, put slings under the base.
Better choice if rig for tipover as the motor is mounted pretty high and
is the bulk, of the weight w/ the top.
The table right at the mounting locations would be fine if you can get
the straps there; what you definitely don't want to do is use the
wings--they'll undoubtedly hold it for that long but may well warp them
a little.
For more secure lifts where had farther to go (like a loft shop, for
instance), I've removed the top and used lift-rated eyebolts in the
mounting holes.
--
In article <[email protected]>, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm thinking about turning the unfinished room over the garage (UROG?)
>into a shop and the garage back into a garage. That means moving the
>Unisaw upstairs. The only way I see to do this is hoisting it up
>through a trap door (yet to be installed). The trap door would also
>be used to get material up to "finish" the room (and of course raw
>sawdust). Moving the saw is my only real concern though.
It shouldn't be. Not the only concern, I mean.
Your first and primary concern should be whether the joists will support the
weight. That's a heavy load, on a long span.
Larry C wrote:
> We took off the wings, laid the table on its side on the shipping dock,
> and rigged a bunch of straps and lowered it into a pickup with a
> forklift. (Be careful rigging, it is not balanced)
>
> We then drove the saw to his shop with it on its side in the back of the
> truck. (With padding and tied down)
>
Plus this allows you to slide it to the end of the bed and tilt it off
the gate, onto its feet, on the ground.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
> As others pointed out, the motor is likely too much of a PITA to
> remove. Your idea of hoisting it inverted is a good one though.
> Removing the top would eliminate any chance of warping and hoisting it
> inverted would put the center of mass at the bottom.
IF going very far, hanging on a sling, could very well be a problem.
Inverted gives you a place for "C" clamps, through short sling loops. Not
just any C clamp, stout ones, tight. Keep the load in line with the straps,
don't stress the screw, C clamp T handle out board of load. DO NOT jerk
the load, smooth and steady. I've done this many times, no problems, but,
as I said, I've done this many times. Had a good teacher.
If for ANY reason you don't like the idea, do not do it. I have 40 years
of moving things. I use a HF engin hoist.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Ignoramus10071" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>> Just to clarify myself and answer "why can't you put forks under the
>> base".
>>
>> These guys have a loading dock for semi trucks that is higher than my
>> truck's bed. So they cannot lower it into my truck from the top of the
>> loading dock. Their forklift is not at ground level.
>>
>> I can, however, put slings under the base.
>>
>> i
>
> IIRC most loading docks have loading ramps so that a fork lift can
> actually drive onto multi height trailers. Could they not put the ramp
> down to your truck and "hand truck" it down the ramp?
The ramps only go down about 6" below floor level, not far enough to get to
a pickup bed.
Many factories, though, are built on a grade and have at least one overhead
door at ground level where you can drive in or take a forklift outside.
On Fri, 11 Sep 2009 09:38:58 -0500, Ignoramus10071
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Can a Delta Unisaw be safely lifted with a sling under the table.
>
>If not, how do you lift it safely.
There are only 4 bolts holding the top on. Removing these will let
you take off the top with the fence attached if you like. Then you
can easily move the box and motor with a two wheel dolly.
Mike O.
On 2009-09-11, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> There are only 4 bolts holding the top on. Removing these will let
>> you take off the top with the fence attached if you like. Then you
>> can easily move the box and motor with a two wheel dolly.
>
> I missed the beginning of this thread. Is this a contractor style saw or a
> cabinet saw? If it's contractor style, it should be too difficult to remove
> the motor too, eliminated a significant amount of weight and reducing the
> bulkiness of the saw.
>
>
here's a picture.
http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/misc/ebay/Delta-Unisaw/Delta-Unisaw-0020.jpg
On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 03:50:52 -0400, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> (I use the space for staining and painting) but the center beam sticks
>> up in the middle. I'm sure it'll take the 600lbs. ;-)
>
>You're putting a lot of worry into this. Maybe it might be easier for you to
>strip the saw as you're able and then hire a couple of movers to do the job
>for you. A couple of hours decent pay at most should be sufficient. What are
>you looking at? Maybe $200. Not a great deal. And if they can move huge
>refrigerators and pianos, they can sure move a table saw for you.
Not so much worry. The floor has to be raised to clear the center
beam anyway and the materials have to be carted up to finish the room.
I plan on doing all the work I'd need to do to turn it into a "FROG",
except the finish flooring. Part of the reason for doing this is to
claim a few more months woodworking (a couple of months both winter
and summer). One of the heat pumps is already located in this space
so extending its coverage shouldn't be difficult.
The point being that a trap door into the garage is a way of getting
the materials, both construction and woodworking, up there without
tearing up the house.
On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 08:50:42 -0500, Ignoramus10071
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2009-09-12, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>> That isn't at all a concern in this space. ;-) I have no idea why
>> the builder did it (the house was built in '07), but it's not a long
>> span at all. The floor joists are 2x12s (16" O.C.), half the span
>> with a (gotta be) 20"x6"x22' (?) wood beam down the center. So the
>> 2x12s span perhaps 12'. On top of that (because of the beam sticking
>> up in the middle), I'll have to put 2x6s, perhaps 2x8s crossways to
>> get the floor above the beam. There is currently an OSB floor there
>> (I use the space for staining and painting) but the center beam sticks
>> up in the middle. I'm sure it'll take the 600lbs. ;-)
>
>You can do yourself a huge favor if you buy a electric hoist.
Already have one - still in the box. This has been in the planning
stage since before we bought the house. ;-) Though at one point I
was thinking of going directly to the FROG stage, I'm now
reconsidering. We really don't need more living space. The house is
already 2600sq.ft. and only two of us.
On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 01:13:12 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I'm thinking about turning the unfinished room over the garage (UROG?)
>>into a shop and the garage back into a garage. That means moving the
>>Unisaw upstairs. The only way I see to do this is hoisting it up
>>through a trap door (yet to be installed). The trap door would also
>>be used to get material up to "finish" the room (and of course raw
>>sawdust). Moving the saw is my only real concern though.
>
>It shouldn't be. Not the only concern, I mean.
>
>Your first and primary concern should be whether the joists will support the
>weight. That's a heavy load, on a long span.
That isn't at all a concern in this space. ;-) I have no idea why
the builder did it (the house was built in '07), but it's not a long
span at all. The floor joists are 2x12s (16" O.C.), half the span
with a (gotta be) 20"x6"x22' (?) wood beam down the center. So the
2x12s span perhaps 12'. On top of that (because of the beam sticking
up in the middle), I'll have to put 2x6s, perhaps 2x8s crossways to
get the floor above the beam. There is currently an OSB floor there
(I use the space for staining and painting) but the center beam sticks
up in the middle. I'm sure it'll take the 600lbs. ;-)
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Ignoramus10071" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> here's a picture.
>>
> http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/misc/ebay/Delta-Unisaw/Delta-Unisaw-0020.jpg
>
> I'd agree then, removing the motor would be too much aggravation. As
> suggested, removing the table top and wings seems the most prudent option
> for transport. The rest ~ just make sure you don't crush any fingers and
> are
> wearing steel toed boots.
>
>
Can you please post and tell us how you did it and how it went?
Larry C
"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 09/11/2009 08:38 AM, Ignoramus10071 wrote:
>> Can a Delta Unisaw be safely lifted with a sling under the table.
>>
>> If not, how do you lift it safely.
>
> For any amount of distance, I'd remove the table. The cabinet can then
> be moved any way you feel like.
>
> Chris
A few years ago I helped a friend do almost the same thing.
We took off the wings, laid the table on its side on the shipping dock, and
rigged a bunch of straps and lowered it into a pickup with a forklift. (Be
careful rigging, it is not balanced)
We then drove the saw to his shop with it on its side in the back of the
truck. (With padding and tied down)
It was no big deal.
Larry C