I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a 36 x 23
panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond 3, but after
doing another part of the project that was 2 layers thick I found that both
faces were convex due to only being able to clamp the edges of the panels.
While, for 2 layers, this isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go
to the third layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near
the middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as possible?
Thanks in advance.
Rich in Newport RI
Sounds like a mess to me. I'd bet that expansion warps it, or maybe causes
breaks.
Is the middle level crossgrain to the others? Does the middle have to be
oak?
How about gluing up two panels and then screwing them to some soft ply as a
core?
Wilson
"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yZMxf.2880$7l4.1464@trndny03...
> I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a 36 x
> 23 panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond 3, but
> after doing another part of the project that was 2 layers thick I found
> that both faces were convex due to only being able to clamp the edges of
> the panels.
> While, for 2 layers, this isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go
> to the third layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near
> the middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
> Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
> possible?
> Thanks in advance.
> Rich in Newport RI
>
>It's an indication that you don't have an equal bond across the surface of
the panels.<
Glued up panels can be clamped with the use of cauls. These are heavy
beams with screw jacks that can apply pressure over the whole surface.
A quick and dirty method is to makeshift the cauls and use wood shims
and wedges to apply pressure in the middle of the panels.
Bugs
Rich wrote:
> I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a 36 x 23
> panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond 3, but after
> doing another part of the project that was 2 layers thick I found that both
> faces were convex due to only being able to clamp the edges of the panels.
> While, for 2 layers, this isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go
> to the third layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near
> the middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
> Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as possible?
> Thanks in advance.
> Rich in Newport RI
>
>
This is a way to do it:
<URL:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=31181&cat=1,41637>
Can't quiet handle your thickness though... Maybe you can make something
similar.
JES
"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yZMxf.2880$7l4.1464@trndny03...
> I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a 36 x
23
> panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond 3, but after
> doing another part of the project that was 2 layers thick I found that
both
> faces were convex due to only being able to clamp the edges of the panels.
> While, for 2 layers, this isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go
> to the third layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near
> the middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
> Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
possible?
> Thanks in advance.
> Rich in Newport RI
>
>
You don't say what your panels are made of. Are you using oak plywood, or
glued up oak boards?
As far as getting an even distribution of weight, why not just put them on a
flat surface like the floor, and put a large weight on them? You could put
a scrap over the top panel and throw a concrete block or two on top... or
even more, across the surface of the pile. You don't need tons of clamp
pressure to glue up boards. If you don't have warpage problems, and the
panels lay flat against one another, you can get enough pressure just from
the weight of a couple of blocks. Wedges will certainly work as well.
I would consider the existing convex condition to be something of a concern.
It's an indication that you don't have an equal bond across the surface of
the panels. That, all by itself would cause me to look at the flatness of
my panels. Not to say it's a definite indicator that they aren't flat, but
it would catch my eye and cause a closer examination.
Since you're building a sandwich you can also screw or nail the middle layer
to the first outer layer when you do that initial glue-up. The heads will
be hidden by the third layer and you'll be certain of a good bond across the
surface of layers one and two.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In my instance this wouldn't be as strong.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:K7Qxf.15$sq.13@trnddc01...
> Rich wrote:
>> I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a
>> 36 x 23 panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond
>> 3, but after doing another part of the project that was 2 layers
>> thick I found that both faces were convex due to only being able to
>> clamp the edges of the panels. While, for 2 layers, this isn't
>> catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go to the third layer. I'm
>> thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near the middle of the
>> panels as well as trying another type of glue.
>> Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
>> possible? Thanks in advance.
>> Rich in Newport RI
>
> Don't try to glue up the three layers into the final width...glue up
> several narrower stacks as needed for thickness, let them dry
> thoroughly, surface if necessary then edge glue those into your final
> width.
>
> --
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yZMxf.2880$7l4.1464@trndny03...
> I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a 36 x
> 23 panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond 3, but
> after doing another part of the project that was 2 layers thick I found
> that both faces were convex due to only being able to clamp the edges of
> the panels.
> While, for 2 layers, this isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go
> to the third layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near
> the middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
> Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
> possible?
> Thanks in advance.
> Rich in Newport RI
Is there some reason you can't use thicker wood? I have a bunch of 12/4
oak if you would like to buy it.
Was the wood flat before gluing? Logically the glue would make it swell, so
it should not end up convex; so I expect they were convex before gluing; and
there isn't much chance you would force them flat.
Rich wrote:
> I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a
> 36 x 23 panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond
> 3, but after doing another part of the project that was 2 layers
> thick I found that both faces were convex due to only being able to
> clamp the edges of the panels. While, for 2 layers, this isn't
> catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go to the third layer. I'm
> thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near the middle of the
> panels as well as trying another type of glue.
> Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
> possible? Thanks in advance.
> Rich in Newport RI
Don't try to glue up the three layers into the final width...glue up
several narrower stacks as needed for thickness, let them dry
thoroughly, surface if necessary then edge glue those into your final
width.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
SIMPLE.
Glue 2 panels face to face at a time and screw them together on the inner
piece side until the glue dries. Remove the screws and repeat with the
next panel until you get to the last panel.
"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yZMxf.2880$7l4.1464@trndny03...
> I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a 36 x
> 23 panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond 3, but
> after doing another part of the project that was 2 layers thick I found
> that both faces were convex due to only being able to clamp the edges of
> the panels.
> While, for 2 layers, this isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go
> to the third layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near
> the middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
> Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
> possible?
> Thanks in advance.
> Rich in Newport RI
>
"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yZMxf.2880$7l4.1464@trndny03...
> I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a 36 x
> 23 panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond 3, but
> after doing another part of the project that was 2 layers thick I found
> that both faces were convex due to only being able to clamp the edges of
> the panels.
> While, for 2 layers, this isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go
> to the third layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near
> the middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
> Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
> possible?
> Thanks in advance.
> Rich in Newport RI
why? can't you make a hollow box such that it looks like it's 2.25" thick?
On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 12:23:58 GMT, "Rich" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a 36 x 23
>panel approx 2-1/4" thick.
Why not edge-joint 2 1/4 thick oak ?
If you want to make 2" thick plywood, then you're going to need a press.
Now this might just be a patio and an awful lot of bricks, but you need
something.
Rich (in yZMxf.2880$7l4.1464@trndny03) said:
| I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make
| a 36 x 23 panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using
| Titebond 3, but after doing another part of the project that was 2
| layers thick I found that both faces were convex due to only being
| able to clamp the edges of the panels. While, for 2 layers, this
| isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go to the third
| layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near the
| middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
| Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
| possible? Thanks in advance.
A couple of these might help: http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/PT_Glue.jpg
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
Awesome looking tools. I was thinking of using something like that. I'll
probably just use my cawls with wedges spaced across the width of the board.
not as expensive.
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Rich (in yZMxf.2880$7l4.1464@trndny03) said:
>
> | I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make
> | a 36 x 23 panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using
> | Titebond 3, but after doing another part of the project that was 2
> | layers thick I found that both faces were convex due to only being
> | able to clamp the edges of the panels. While, for 2 layers, this
> | isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I go to the third
> | layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near the
> | middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
> | Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
> | possible? Thanks in advance.
>
> A couple of these might help: http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/PT_Glue.jpg
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto Solar
> DeSoto, Iowa USA
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
>
>
Mike, inserted comments, below. Thanks for your input. You told me what I
was thinking of doing, but it really reassured me more than anything.
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:yZMxf.2880$7l4.1464@trndny03...
>> I'm going to be laminating three layers of 3/4" oak panels to make a 36 x
> 23
>> panel approx 2-1/4" thick. I was planning on using Titebond 3, but after
>> doing another part of the project that was 2 layers thick I found that
> both
>> faces were convex due to only being able to clamp the edges of the
>> panels.
>> While, for 2 layers, this isn't catastrophic, I foresee problems when I
>> go
>> to the third layer. I'm thinking about putting wedges under my cawls near
>> the middle of the panels as well as trying another type of glue.
>> Any suggestions as to how to do this and keep my panels as flat as
> possible?
>> Thanks in advance.
>> Rich in Newport RI
>>
>>
>
> You don't say what your panels are made of. Are you using oak plywood, or
> glued up oak boards?
Yes I did its oak
>
> As far as getting an even distribution of weight, why not just put them on
> a
> flat surface like the floor, and put a large weight on them? You could
> put
> a scrap over the top panel and throw a concrete block or two on top... or
> even more, across the surface of the pile. You don't need tons of clamp
> pressure to glue up boards. If you don't have warpage problems, and the
> panels lay flat against one another, you can get enough pressure just from
> the weight of a couple of blocks. Wedges will certainly work as well.
I thought of this too.... Probably will be the route I take with weight for
the third layer.
>
> I would consider the existing convex condition to be something of a
> concern.
> It's an indication that you don't have an equal bond across the surface of
> the panels. That, all by itself would cause me to look at the flatness of
> my panels. Not to say it's a definite indicator that they aren't flat,
> but
> it would catch my eye and cause a closer examination.
The panels were perfectly flat. Each was edge-jointed and planed. I'm 100%
sure the glue pooled in the middle when clamped.
>
> Since you're building a sandwich you can also screw or nail the middle
> layer
> to the first outer layer when you do that initial glue-up. The heads will
> be hidden by the third layer and you'll be certain of a good bond across
> the
> surface of layers one and two.
I'm probably going to do this too.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
>