x-no-archive:yes
If I were to build a bookshelf and need a dado in the middle of each
side to hold a shelf, what is the best way to do that? Can I do it on
my small router table using a wall or something for a fence for the
long board so it is straight? I made a small dad with some small boards
and the dado came out crooked.
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> How do I control the depth of the cut?
Do you know how to use a router?
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> stryped wrote:
>
> BE the bit...
Just do it...
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> If I were to build a bookshelf and need a dado in the middle of each
> side to hold a shelf, what is the best way to do that? Can I do it on
> my small router table using a wall or something for a fence for the
> long board so it is straight? I made a small dad with some small boards
> and the dado came out crooked.
>
This is always a tricky procedure. After years of trying different methods
I finally came up with this one. Its based on an epsiode of "This Old
House" where Norm used two step ladders and a Band Saw on a mobile base to
cut a curve design on a trelis (sp?).
Step 1. suspend your piece of wood between two saw horses. If you don't
have saw horses, substitute something similar. Note, don't use real horses.
They spook to easy, don't ask me how I know that... Make sure you place the
side of the board you want the dado on facing down.
Step 2. Put your straight cutting bit in your mobile router table and adust
the depth to your required needs. Oh, and yes its critical that the router
table is mobile. If you don't have a mobile router station, go a google
search for plans. Just make sure they one you pick doesn't require any
dados or you'll be screwed.
Step 3. Adjust the height of your board on the saw horses to be just
slightly higher than the surface of your rounter table. You might want to
use a dial caliper and feeler guages for this. After a couple of times
you'll be able to just eye ball it.
Setp 4. Take an edge jointed board about 8' long and place it
perpendicular to your board in the saw horses. This is going to be your
track for your mobile router table, so its important that it be both
perfectly square to your board and aligned properly laterally. I modified
an old sun dial I won on Ebay for this exact purpose and she works like a
charm. Once I've got it in position I like to use tapicon screws and secure
the track to the floor. Some don't like to do this, but I think its a bit
safer this way.
Step 5. This is where it starts to get tricky to describe... Line up your
mobile router station at the start of your guide track (the one you just
screwed to floor in step 4).
Step 6. Now make sure you read this, because this is critical... Make sure
you got a long extention cord, 30' atleast to attach to your router. If you
get one thats too short you could lose power at the wrong time and screw up
your work and no one wants that! ;-)
Step 7. Start pushing! Did you watch any of the winter Olympics? In
paticular the Bobsled event? Yes, perfect! You want to haul ass like the
guy at the back, they call him the brake man. Funny that, my friends call
me the Break Man, no idea why though... Make sure you keep it on the guide
track and what ever the hell you do, let go before you hit your board. You
might knock it out of alignment and screw up your piece if you don't.
The great thing about this method is that you can gang up multiple boards
edge to edge and do whats called a "Production run". I guess now you know
where the "run" part comes from eh?
Good Luck!
Break Man
x-no-archive:yes
To be honest, I just got my router and table for Christmas. I have only
used my router with a table. I have never used one freehanded. It seems
like a hassel to have to take it off the table and back on several
times too.
Leon wrote:
> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > x-no-archive:yes
> >
> > How do I control the depth of the cut?
>
>
> Do you know how to use a router?
stryped wrote:
>
> To be honest, I just got my router and table for Christmas. I have only
> used my router with a table. I have never used one freehanded. It seems
> like a hassel to have to take it off the table and back on several
> times too.
Yes, it is. Proper work flow cuts down on repeated setups, but it can
be annoying, regardless.
You should check out some books from the library on how to use a
router, see if you get The Router Workshop on the tube and generally
investigate what you are using. It's a great tool but it can be
dangerous and/or expensive (wasted wood) if used improperly.
R
Guess who wrote:
> On 2 Mar 2006 07:38:11 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I made a small dad with some small boards
> >and the dado came out crooked.
>
> Try being more careful. Any way that works is best. If it is
> difficult to handle long boards, then dont' usethe router table, but
> clamp a bit of wood as a freehand router guide.
>
> Make mistakes. We all do. That's how we learn ...sometimes. Your
> technique and attention to detail will improve immensely when you get
> you next lumber bill.
I made a dado jig a while back, and while I liked its adjustability, I
was concerned over whether or not the rails were clamped flush to the
workpiece. That is, I was concerned that the depth of cut would vary
throughout the cut - most likely full depth at the edges and somewhat
less deep in the middle. The cause of this could be that the rails
flex a bit as you clamp them down on each side of the workpiece.
Does anyone here have the same concerns? I'm thinking of a slight
curve, like a clamping caul, to the rails. Someday. This post just
got me thinking.
JP
Jay Pique wrote:
> Guess who wrote:
> > On 2 Mar 2006 07:38:11 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >I made a small dad with some small boards
> > >and the dado came out crooked.
> >
> > Try being more careful. Any way that works is best. If it is
> > difficult to handle long boards, then dont' usethe router table, but
> > clamp a bit of wood as a freehand router guide.
> >
> > Make mistakes. We all do. That's how we learn ...sometimes. Your
> > technique and attention to detail will improve immensely when you get
> > you next lumber bill.
>
> I made a dado jig a while back, and while I liked its adjustability, I
> was concerned over whether or not the rails were clamped flush to the
> workpiece. That is, I was concerned that the depth of cut would vary
> throughout the cut - most likely full depth at the edges and somewhat
> less deep in the middle. The cause of this could be that the rails
> flex a bit as you clamp them down on each side of the workpiece.
>
> Does anyone here have the same concerns? I'm thinking of a slight
> curve, like a clamping caul, to the rails. Someday. This post just
> got me thinking.
>
> JP
Do you have your workpiece on a nice flat surface? Is your jig made
out of a stable material (i.e. MDF or Plywood)? I have to think, that
even if you were using warped wood in your jig, the weight of the
rotuer would help to eliminate some of that play.
Chuck
You need to take that router out of the table.
For years I didn't have a decent TS. My fence was terrible at best and
only cut 28" to the right of the blade. I used Pat Warner's technique
religiously after I saw a video on the net.
1. Lay your side pieces on a flat table.
2. Stand the shelf piece on the side.
3. Butt 2 pieces of MDF with factory edges on either side of the shelf.
4. Remove the shelf.
5. Chuck a Flush trim bit with a short cutting length into you router
and adjust the height for an appropriate dado.
6. Route a perfectly fitting Dado for that specific shelf piece.
The real trick here is to route the dados from the board that will
become both your side pieces, so the dados are parrell. In other
words, cut a panel to size that equals 2x 1 side (plus a litte extra
for fudge factor). Route your dados. Then cut the shelf pieces to
size.
Of course, now that I have a decent TS and fence, I use a dado blade.
But I swore by that router method before I saved up enough quarters.
Good luck,
Chuck
On 2 Mar 2006 07:38:11 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>x-no-archive:yes
>
>If I were to build a bookshelf and need a dado in the middle of each
>side to hold a shelf, what is the best way to do that? Can I do it on
>my small router table using a wall or something for a fence for the
>long board so it is straight? I made a small dad with some small boards
>and the dado came out crooked.
Construct a slotted jig for your router such that the router base
rides against sides on the jig. Make the jig such that it can be
securely clamped on the bookcase side. Once you have the jig built,
cutting perfect dados will be a snap. Using a dado blade in a table
saw is the easiest. Either method can produce perfect dadoes.
On 2 Mar 2006 11:17:04 -0800, "Jay Pique" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I made a dado jig a while back, and while I liked its adjustability, I
>was concerned over whether or not the rails were clamped flush to the
>workpiece. That is, I was concerned that the depth of cut would vary
>throughout the cut
>Does anyone here have the same concerns?
No. You are working with warped wood. First plane it flat, and the
router will follow that path instead of a warped one. If you don't
have the proper tools you can't do a proper job. I've been there, so
I know both alternatives.
On 3/2/2006 11:04 AM stryped mumbled something about the following:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> How do I control the depth of the cut?
>
And since you don't want this one archived, I'll archive it for you as well.
--
Odinn
RCOS #7 SENS BS ???
"The more I study religions the more I am convinced that man never
worshiped anything but himself." -- Sir Richard Francis Burton
Reeky's unofficial homepage ... http://www.reeky.org
'03 FLHTI ........... http://www.sloanclan.org/gallery/ElectraGlide
'97 VN1500D ......... http://www.sloanclan.org/gallery/VulcanClassic
Atlanta Biker Net ... http://www.atlantabiker.net
Vulcan Riders Assoc . http://www.vulcanriders.org
rot13 [email protected] to reply
On 3/2/2006 10:38 AM stryped mumbled something about the following:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> If I were to build a bookshelf and need a dado in the middle of each
> side to hold a shelf, what is the best way to do that? Can I do it on
> my small router table using a wall or something for a fence for the
> long board so it is straight? I made a small dad with some small boards
> and the dado came out crooked.
>
Since you don't want this archived, I'll archive your question for you.
--
Odinn
RCOS #7 SENS BS ???
"The more I study religions the more I am convinced that man never
worshiped anything but himself." -- Sir Richard Francis Burton
Reeky's unofficial homepage ... http://www.reeky.org
'03 FLHTI ........... http://www.sloanclan.org/gallery/ElectraGlide
'97 VN1500D ......... http://www.sloanclan.org/gallery/VulcanClassic
Atlanta Biker Net ... http://www.atlantabiker.net
Vulcan Riders Assoc . http://www.vulcanriders.org
rot13 [email protected] to reply
On 3/2/2006 1:42 PM stryped mumbled something about the following:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> To be honest, I just got my router and table for Christmas. I have only
> used my router with a table. I have never used one freehanded. It seems
> like a hassel to have to take it off the table and back on several
> times too.
> Leon wrote:
>> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> x-no-archive:yes
>>>
>>> How do I control the depth of the cut?
>>
>> Do you know how to use a router?
>
Another one I'll archive for you. Can't let people know how many
questions you ask without doing any research.
--
Odinn
RCOS #7 SENS BS ???
"The more I study religions the more I am convinced that man never
worshiped anything but himself." -- Sir Richard Francis Burton
Reeky's unofficial homepage ... http://www.reeky.org
'03 FLHTI ........... http://www.sloanclan.org/gallery/ElectraGlide
'97 VN1500D ......... http://www.sloanclan.org/gallery/VulcanClassic
Atlanta Biker Net ... http://www.atlantabiker.net
Vulcan Riders Assoc . http://www.vulcanriders.org
rot13 [email protected] to reply
This jig with a straight cutting bit with top mounted bearing.
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> If I were to build a bookshelf and need a dado in the middle of each
> side to hold a shelf, what is the best way to do that? Can I do it on
> my small router table using a wall or something for a fence for the
> long board so it is straight? I made a small dad with some small boards
> and the dado came out crooked.
>
Unless you are clamping so hard as to compress the wood, this is not a
concern.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Guess who wrote:
> > On 2 Mar 2006 07:38:11 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >I made a small dad with some small boards
> > >and the dado came out crooked.
> >
> > Try being more careful. Any way that works is best. If it is
> > difficult to handle long boards, then dont' usethe router table, but
> > clamp a bit of wood as a freehand router guide.
> >
> > Make mistakes. We all do. That's how we learn ...sometimes. Your
> > technique and attention to detail will improve immensely when you get
> > you next lumber bill.
>
> I made a dado jig a while back, and while I liked its adjustability, I
> was concerned over whether or not the rails were clamped flush to the
> workpiece. That is, I was concerned that the depth of cut would vary
> throughout the cut - most likely full depth at the edges and somewhat
> less deep in the middle. The cause of this could be that the rails
> flex a bit as you clamp them down on each side of the workpiece.
>
> Does anyone here have the same concerns? I'm thinking of a slight
> curve, like a clamping caul, to the rails. Someday. This post just
> got me thinking.
>
> JP
>
It is. What I do is to have a separate base that is permanently attached to
the table. All I have to do is switch the motor. Many people have two (or
more) routers so they don't have to switch.
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It seems
> like a hassel to have to take it off the table and back on several
> times too.
> Leon wrote:
On 2 Mar 2006 07:38:11 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I made a small dad with some small boards
>and the dado came out crooked.
Try being more careful. Any way that works is best. If it is
difficult to handle long boards, then dont' usethe router table, but
clamp a bit of wood as a freehand router guide.
Make mistakes. We all do. That's how we learn ...sometimes. Your
technique and attention to detail will improve immensely when you get
you next lumber bill.
LOL! Are you SURE you can't use real horses? What if they're
nice and calm? Then the horses could do the moving and the
router could sit still! Lots easier than all that
pushing/pulling!
Wayyy back when, I helped run a farm while the guy was in
hospital. He used Erie Mules, huge, gigantic, muscled animals
that were as gentle as a momma's breath. They could even
successfully back a 4-wheeled manure spreader down the length of
the barn by just hollering "Backa, backa, backa" at them til they
got where you wanted them. Then you continued shovelling.
Pop
"Brian Henderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 2 Mar 2006 07:38:11 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>If I were to build a bookshelf and need a dado in the middle of each
>>side to hold a shelf, what is the best way to do that? Can I do it on
>>my small router table using a wall or something for a fence for the
>>long board so it is straight? I made a small dad with some small boards
>>and the dado came out crooked.
>
> It really isn't easy to make a dado in a long board on a tablesaw.
> It's possible, sure, but if it's longer than your table and wider than
> a couple of feet, you're pretty much out of luck. Get a router with a
> straightedge and you won't have a problem.
>
> I ran into that problem when I was building shelving and needed 3/4"
> dados every 5.5" throughout 10-foot boards. There wasn't any
> clearance on either side of the tablesaw to make the cut, even if I
> had been crazy enough to try to support it on both sides. I just
> clamped the boards together, side-by-side, routed the dados so they
> were identical on both sides, and bingo.
you mean, bob's your uncle.
On 2 Mar 2006 10:42:43 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>To be honest, I just got my router and table for Christmas. I have only
>used my router with a table. I have never used one freehanded. It seems
>like a hassel to have to take it off the table and back on several
>times too.
That's why you need at least two routers.
--
Chuck Taylor
http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact/
Chuck Taylor wrote:
> On 2 Mar 2006 10:42:43 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>To be honest, I just got my router and table for Christmas. I have only
>>used my router with a table. I have never used one freehanded. It seems
>>like a hassel to have to take it off the table and back on several
>>times too.
>
>
>
>
> That's why you need at least two routers.
>
>
Or five or six. ;-)
Glen
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> To be honest, I just got my router and table for Christmas. I have only
> used my router with a table. I have never used one freehanded. It seems
> like a hassel to have to take it off the table and back on several
> times too.
Great. The router is a valuable tool. Basically the depth adjustment is
made that same as it is in the router table providing you are not using a
router lift of some type to make depth adjustments while it is in the table.
Take a look again at your owners manual to see how to properly make height
adjustments while the router is being used free hand. And yes, it is a
hassle to use the router under the table and out from under the table. That
is why you will sooner or later own 4 or 5 routers. :~)
"Pop" wrote in message
> Wayyy back when, I helped run a farm while the guy was in
> hospital. He used Erie Mules, huge, gigantic, muscled animals
> that were as gentle as a momma's breath. They could even
> successfully back a 4-wheeled manure spreader down the length of
> the barn by just hollering "Backa, backa, backa" at them til they
> got where you wanted them. Then you continued shovelling.
Brought back memories ... when I got of the service, and besides music which
was kinda lean back then, I went back to shoeing horses, mainly because at
that point I didn't give a damn about doing anything else but chasing women
and raising hell, and it gave me ample opportunity to be worthless and do
both.
Two of the stables I routinely worked at still used mules to pull the manure
wagons through the barns. I still have one of the mule collars, and until a
few years ago, my Dad still had one of the four wheel manure wagons laying
around his farm I scored when the stables closed, maybe still does.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
"mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This jig with a straight cutting bit with top mounted bearing.
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html
>
And umm disregard the note on the jig indicating which way to face the
router. That note was on the jig as a reminder when it was designed to be
used with a router guide bushing. With a top bearing bit the router can be
clocked or turned during the cut.
On 2 Mar 2006 07:38:11 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>If I were to build a bookshelf and need a dado in the middle of each
>side to hold a shelf, what is the best way to do that? Can I do it on
>my small router table using a wall or something for a fence for the
>long board so it is straight? I made a small dad with some small boards
>and the dado came out crooked.
It really isn't easy to make a dado in a long board on a tablesaw.
It's possible, sure, but if it's longer than your table and wider than
a couple of feet, you're pretty much out of luck. Get a router with a
straightedge and you won't have a problem.
I ran into that problem when I was building shelving and needed 3/4"
dados every 5.5" throughout 10-foot boards. There wasn't any
clearance on either side of the tablesaw to make the cut, even if I
had been crazy enough to try to support it on both sides. I just
clamped the boards together, side-by-side, routed the dados so they
were identical on both sides, and bingo.
"2fatty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> x-no-archive:yes
>>
>> If I were to build a bookshelf and need a dado in the middle of each
>> side to hold a shelf, what is the best way to do that? Can I do it on
>> my small router table using a wall or something for a fence for the
>> long board so it is straight? I made a small dad with some small boards
>> and the dado came out crooked.
>>
>
> This is always a tricky procedure. After years of trying different
> methods I finally came up with this one. Its based on an epsiode of "This
> Old House" where Norm used two step ladders and a Band Saw on a mobile
> base to cut a curve design on a trelis (sp?).
>
> Step 1. suspend your piece of wood between two saw horses. If you don't
> have saw horses, substitute something similar. Note, don't use real
> horses. They spook to easy, don't ask me how I know that... Make sure you
> place the side of the board you want the dado on facing down.
>
> Step 2. Put your straight cutting bit in your mobile router table and
> adust the depth to your required needs. Oh, and yes its critical that the
> router table is mobile. If you don't have a mobile router station, go a
> google search for plans. Just make sure they one you pick doesn't require
> any dados or you'll be screwed.
>
> Step 3. Adjust the height of your board on the saw horses to be just
> slightly higher than the surface of your rounter table. You might want to
> use a dial caliper and feeler guages for this. After a couple of times
> you'll be able to just eye ball it.
>
> Setp 4. Take an edge jointed board about 8' long and place it
> perpendicular to your board in the saw horses. This is going to be your
> track for your mobile router table, so its important that it be both
> perfectly square to your board and aligned properly laterally. I modified
> an old sun dial I won on Ebay for this exact purpose and she works like a
> charm. Once I've got it in position I like to use tapicon screws and
> secure the track to the floor. Some don't like to do this, but I think
> its a bit safer this way.
>
> Step 5. This is where it starts to get tricky to describe... Line up
> your mobile router station at the start of your guide track (the one you
> just screwed to floor in step 4).
>
> Step 6. Now make sure you read this, because this is critical... Make
> sure you got a long extention cord, 30' atleast to attach to your router.
> If you get one thats too short you could lose power at the wrong time and
> screw up your work and no one wants that! ;-)
>
> Step 7. Start pushing! Did you watch any of the winter Olympics? In
> paticular the Bobsled event? Yes, perfect! You want to haul ass like the
> guy at the back, they call him the brake man. Funny that, my friends call
> me the Break Man, no idea why though... Make sure you keep it on the
> guide track and what ever the hell you do, let go before you hit your
> board. You might knock it out of alignment and screw up your piece if you
> don't.
>
> The great thing about this method is that you can gang up multiple boards
> edge to edge and do whats called a "Production run". I guess now you know
> where the "run" part comes from eh?
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Break Man
>
Ingenious! Creative, too. I would never have thought of doing it this way.
Now I know why I want to build my router table with wheels.
Gary