A while back I posted a comment about how I set up the electrical
connection to my router so as to be able to plug-in a shorted HFT Foot-
actuated switch and control the router with it.
At the time, a couple of folks commented to the effect of "Whatever
for?"
Well, the latest project requires routing finish edges on sixty or so
decorative pickets for the new deck. We have five pattern pieces the
wife uses to rough cut the pickets on the BS and I, in turn, use the
router table to finish off the edges with a triple-fluted pattern bit.
Well, if I ever needed an excuse to build it or a justification for
doing so, this project was it. Pick up a piece, drop it on the table,
step on the switch and rout right away. It works perfectly.
You put a three-way switch in series with an outlet and the router.
You plug the HFT FS into the outlet and a shorted plug into the HFT FS
outlet (where they expect you'll plug in the tool you want to
control). Then, when the three-way switch is thrown to "include" the
outlet, the foot switch controls the power to the router (tool). (When
it is thrown in the other direction, power is sent directly to the
router (tool).
If you want to use the FS "normally," simply replace the shorting plug
with the tool to be controlled.
BTW, the reason for doing it this way is to reduce the clutter that
directly connecting the router to the foot switch entails (extra
electrical cable) as well as the ability to toss the FS in the drawer
when not in use and have a functional router table without plugging or
unplugging anything - just flip the switch and it's on.
On Fri, 26 Aug 2011 15:42:39 -0400, willshak <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Dave wrote the following:
>> On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:06:40 -0700 (PDT), Hoosierpopi
>>> You put a three-way switch in series with an outlet and the router.
>>> You plug the HFT FS into the outlet and a shorted plug into the HFT FS
>>> outlet (where they expect you'll plug in the tool you want to
>>
>> And if one is not inclined to build their own as Hoosier as done, they
>> can purchase an apparatus that essentially does the same thing from
>> Lee Valley Tools.
>> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30049&cat=1,240,41065
>
>
>That's good to know. I need an on-off switch for my hobby compressor (no
>air tank) when I am airbrushing. As it stands now, I have to get up and
>pull the plug. I like the idea that the foot switch can be underfoot at
>the spray booth.
Are you spraying tans onto nekkid girls during the winter, boy?
<wink>
P.S: Put a tank on that puppy. Any old propane tank will work.
--
Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens.
-- Jimi Hendrix
Dave wrote the following:
> On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:06:40 -0700 (PDT), Hoosierpopi
>> You put a three-way switch in series with an outlet and the router.
>> You plug the HFT FS into the outlet and a shorted plug into the HFT FS
>> outlet (where they expect you'll plug in the tool you want to
>
> And if one is not inclined to build their own as Hoosier as done, they
> can purchase an apparatus that essentially does the same thing from
> Lee Valley Tools.
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30049&cat=1,240,41065
That's good to know. I need an on-off switch for my hobby compressor (no
air tank) when I am airbrushing. As it stands now, I have to get up and
pull the plug. I like the idea that the foot switch can be underfoot at
the spray booth.
Thanks.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
I have 3 of them, 1 is hooked up to my drill press and another to my lathe.
I have to keep my foot on them as soon as I remove my foot the motors stop.
Best thing I ever did. My other one is used where ever I need it, mostly on
my table saw, but it is an on/off switch. step on it rip the paywood, shut
it off at the saw, no ducking and diveing to find the switch after I have
the material in place.
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9e46fe85-a70f-48f6-9997-ed9756181579@e34g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
>A while back I posted a comment about how I set up the electrical
> connection to my router so as to be able to plug-in a shorted HFT Foot-
> actuated switch and control the router with it.
>
> At the time, a couple of folks commented to the effect of "Whatever
> for?"
>
> Well, the latest project requires routing finish edges on sixty or so
> decorative pickets for the new deck. We have five pattern pieces the
> wife uses to rough cut the pickets on the BS and I, in turn, use the
> router table to finish off the edges with a triple-fluted pattern bit.
>
> Well, if I ever needed an excuse to build it or a justification for
> doing so, this project was it. Pick up a piece, drop it on the table,
> step on the switch and rout right away. It works perfectly.
>
> You put a three-way switch in series with an outlet and the router.
> You plug the HFT FS into the outlet and a shorted plug into the HFT FS
> outlet (where they expect you'll plug in the tool you want to
> control). Then, when the three-way switch is thrown to "include" the
> outlet, the foot switch controls the power to the router (tool). (When
> it is thrown in the other direction, power is sent directly to the
> router (tool).
>
> If you want to use the FS "normally," simply replace the shorting plug
> with the tool to be controlled.
>
> BTW, the reason for doing it this way is to reduce the clutter that
> directly connecting the router to the foot switch entails (extra
> electrical cable) as well as the ability to toss the FS in the drawer
> when not in use and have a functional router table without plugging or
> unplugging anything - just flip the switch and it's on.
>
"WW" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:9e46fe85-a70f-48f6-9997-ed9756181579@e34g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
>> You put a three-way switch in series with an outlet and the router.
>> You plug the HFT FS into the outlet and a shorted plug into the HFT FS
>> outlet
[elided]
>
>I made that set up for my drill press years ago.. WW
>>
Whew. I don't think I'd advocate making a "shorted plug", for any purpose.
I think you'd be better off cutting the end off[*] the footswitch cord and
hardwiring it to the switch-singlton-outlet combo. Switch up, power on
to the outlet, switch down, the footswitch is inserted into the circuit.
If you need to use the footswitch at multiple stations, get one each - they're
not that expensive.
scott
[*] or replace the entire cord from the footswitch to the jbox with appropriately
sized type SJ cord. Use a romex clamp on the jbox for strain relief.
On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:06:40 -0700 (PDT), Hoosierpopi
>You put a three-way switch in series with an outlet and the router.
>You plug the HFT FS into the outlet and a shorted plug into the HFT FS
>outlet (where they expect you'll plug in the tool you want to
And if one is not inclined to build their own as Hoosier as done, they
can purchase an apparatus that essentially does the same thing from
Lee Valley Tools.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30049&cat=1,240,41065
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9e46fe85-a70f-48f6-9997-ed9756181579@e34g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
>A while back I posted a comment about how I set up the electrical
> connection to my router so as to be able to plug-in a shorted HFT Foot-
> actuated switch and control the router with it.
>
> At the time, a couple of folks commented to the effect of "Whatever
> for?"
>
> Well, the latest project requires routing finish edges on sixty or so
> decorative pickets for the new deck. We have five pattern pieces the
> wife uses to rough cut the pickets on the BS and I, in turn, use the
> router table to finish off the edges with a triple-fluted pattern bit.
>
> Well, if I ever needed an excuse to build it or a justification for
> doing so, this project was it. Pick up a piece, drop it on the table,
> step on the switch and rout right away. It works perfectly.
>
> You put a three-way switch in series with an outlet and the router.
> You plug the HFT FS into the outlet and a shorted plug into the HFT FS
> outlet (where they expect you'll plug in the tool you want to
> control). Then, when the three-way switch is thrown to "include" the
> outlet, the foot switch controls the power to the router (tool). (When
> it is thrown in the other direction, power is sent directly to the
> router (tool).
>
> If you want to use the FS "normally," simply replace the shorting plug
> with the tool to be controlled.
>
> BTW, the reason for doing it this way is to reduce the clutter that
> directly connecting the router to the foot switch entails (extra
> electrical cable) as well as the ability to toss the FS in the drawer
> when not in use and have a functional router table without plugging or
> unplugging anything - just flip the switch and it's on.
I made that set up for my drill press years ago.. WW
>