Hiya,
About 75% done building my cyclone and am starting to think about electrics.
This will be a 220v, 2hp driven cyclone.
I'm thinking of going with X10 for my remote system. Here's what I had in
mind and I was hoping there is someone that
has done this already. Looking at getting their TM751
(http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_tm751.htm) , their universal
module (http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_um506.htm), and a remote. The
UM506 puts out a low voltage signal which
I was planning to use to switch a contactor connected to the 220V. Another
option would be to use a module that put out
120V to switch the contactor. Honestly, I haven't investigated contactors
yet so not sure if I should be thinking 24v or 110v.
Any advice on this is most appreciated (including part numbers if you got
em!)
Cheers,
cc
"James \"Cubby\" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hiya,
> About 75% done building my cyclone and am starting to think about electrics.
> This will be a 220v, 2hp driven cyclone.
> I'm thinking of going with X10 for my remote system. Here's what I had in
> mind and I was hoping there is someone that
> has done this already. Looking at getting their TM751
> (http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_tm751.htm) , their universal
> module (http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_um506.htm), and a remote. The
> UM506 puts out a low voltage signal which
> I was planning to use to switch a contactor connected to the 220V. Another
> option would be to use a module that put out
> 120V to switch the contactor. Honestly, I haven't investigated contactors
> yet so not sure if I should be thinking 24v or 110v.
>
> Any advice on this is most appreciated (including part numbers if you got
> em!)
>
> Cheers,
> cc
Hi,
Why don't you simply get the 220V 20 amp module (HD245), a
transceiver and a remote and plug directly into this? I have it for a
year now controlling my grizzly dust collector with no problems.
Wound up getting a bunch of "extra" stuff for a little more which I
have not really played with yet. Don't sign up for any email crap, it
is continuous.
jaime
I have the 220V X-10 with remote... works great on a 5 HP DC.
Tom
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hiya,
> About 75% done building my cyclone and am starting to think about
> electrics. This will be a 220v, 2hp driven cyclone.
> I'm thinking of going with X10 for my remote system. Here's what I had
> in mind and I was hoping there is someone that
<snipped>>
James "Cubby" Culbertson wrote:
> Gerry,
> Thanks for the informative reply! Looks like there are a few options
> available besides
> the x10 (company) and cheaper too! Appreciate it.
> Cheers,
> cc
>
>
> "GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I've been using a 220v x10 appliance controller for a DC for over 5 years
>>now.
>>Have two sets of track lights for task lighting that're also on X10. With
>>a
>>radio remote in another outlet and a couple of small controllers scattered
>>or
>>in my pocket, it's worked out well. Even gave one to SWMBO so she can
>>flash a
>>light to get my attention. The whole outfit costs less and was more useful
>>than that LongRanger one. Initially bought from X10 site, but their prices
>>are
>>high. Latest buy was from www.safe-mart.com .
>>
>>Using http://www.safe-mart.com/xheduapmopa.html for the DC.
>>
>>The http://www.safe-mart.com/phr03.html includes a PHR03 remote control
>>which
>>is too large for the pocket, but it does have considerably more range. The
>>include little PHR04 sits in your pocket or belt. The PAT01 included base
>>transceiver has worked out well. I just stuck a wire around the antenna
>>and
>>taped it on the wall to extend the range a bit.
>>
>>GerryG
>>
>
>
>
People need to conside that X10 is getting a bit long in the tooth. The
code sent over the power line is very simple and if someone shares the
same transformer it is very easy to take control of your X10 devices.
Newer systems (don't know the standard offhand) make use of a much more
secure protocol.
Anyhoo, I'm considering the PSI remote controller for my (2hp) dust
system. Basically just a wireless remote and an inline junction box that
the collector plugs into. Searches seem to indicate it's a reasonably
good product for the $60. Anyone have any stories they'd like to share
on this item?
(Watch the wrap)
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004S9AG/qid=1099061404/sr=8-4/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i4_xgl60/104-4874741-6778358?v=glance&s=hi&n=507846
Thanks!
-Bruce
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---
"brian lanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> X10 is a standard, not a company. Well, there may be a company that
> has hijacked the name. But there are certainly other companies
> building x10 based products.
>
> brian
Actually, it is now both. The original X-10 stuff I bought was under the
BSR label and was sold by DAK out of California. Later, Radio Shack had it,
then Sears, probably others. They the X-10 company came along and they sell
it over the web. I have no idea how long they have been around.
Home Link is a similar system and has some compatibilty. I can even turn a
couple of house lights on from my car with the built in system.
I did not know it was a standart though. Thanks for that info.
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'd never buy an X10 product. Seen too much of it that went
> unreliable too soon.
X10 is a standard, not a company. Well, there may be a company that
has hijacked the name. But there are certainly other companies
building x10 based products.
brian
Thanks Andy. x10 is a specification/standard created some 30 years ago
defining
a communication or network protocol for carrying signals over power lines.
X10.com just
happened to develop it and consequently carries the name. It is not
proprietary any longer so
there are many manufacturer's using it including Leviton, Lutron, etc...
Cheers,
cc
ps. Yeah, I hate x10.com's website too!
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 21:48:17 -0600, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I'm thinking of going with X10 for my remote system.
>
> I'd never buy an X10 product. Seen too much of it that went
> unreliable too soon.
>
> I also hate popup ads. A company that has tried so hard to annoy me
> isn't getting _my_ money.
>
>
> My DC controller is an old motor-start controller. I can put
> pushbuttons for this anywhere I like, and that's only a low-current
> cable to run. Dead simple, so I might actually get it all finished.
> Of course in the future I can fool around with current sensing and
> time delays as much as I like, but in the meantime I have something
> that turns the DC on and off from the other side of the workshop, even
> if it's not right in my pocket.
>
> --
> Smert' spamionam
Gerry,
Thanks for the informative reply! Looks like there are a few options
available besides
the x10 (company) and cheaper too! Appreciate it.
Cheers,
cc
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been using a 220v x10 appliance controller for a DC for over 5 years
> now.
> Have two sets of track lights for task lighting that're also on X10. With
> a
> radio remote in another outlet and a couple of small controllers scattered
> or
> in my pocket, it's worked out well. Even gave one to SWMBO so she can
> flash a
> light to get my attention. The whole outfit costs less and was more useful
> than that LongRanger one. Initially bought from X10 site, but their prices
> are
> high. Latest buy was from www.safe-mart.com .
>
> Using http://www.safe-mart.com/xheduapmopa.html for the DC.
>
> The http://www.safe-mart.com/phr03.html includes a PHR03 remote control
> which
> is too large for the pocket, but it does have considerably more range. The
> include little PHR04 sits in your pocket or belt. The PAT01 included base
> transceiver has worked out well. I just stuck a wire around the antenna
> and
> taped it on the wall to extend the range a bit.
>
> GerryG
>
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I'd never buy an X10 product. Seen too much of it that went
> unreliable too soon.
>
> I also hate popup ads. A company that has tried so hard to annoy me
> isn't getting _my_ money.
Most of mine has been in use for 15 years or so. Maybe they've cheapened in
recent years. I think their web page is a PITA though. I have eight lights
on X-10 timer and a couple of extra controllers. When you hear noises
outside it is nice to be able to it a button by the bedside and tu rn lights
on in the yard.
Ed.
Thanks Jaime,
Since X10 (the company, not the spec) doesn't give much in the way of specs
for their stuff, I was concernced
about whether that module would handle 2hp motors. Amperage aside, I was
worried
the module mightn't handle the motor's transients etc...
Cheers,
cc
"Jaimesummer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Hi,
> Why don't you simply get the 220V 20 amp module (HD245), a
> transceiver and a remote and plug directly into this? I have it for a
> year now controlling my grizzly dust collector with no problems.
> Wound up getting a bunch of "extra" stuff for a little more which I
> have not really played with yet. Don't sign up for any email crap, it
> is continuous.
> jaime
> Why don't you simply get the 220V 20 amp module (HD245), a
>transceiver and a remote and plug directly into this?
mine flaked out after a bit. the ranger is a far better built unit that always
works and has more range too. plus the remote is very durable I have dropped it
a lot of times with no problems.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
James "Cubby" Culbertson said:
>Hiya,
>About 75% done building my cyclone and am starting to think about electrics.
Why don't you just get a Long Ranger. $65 and you're done.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004S9AG/qid=1098953556/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/002-8057197-8168050?v=glance&s=hi
FWIW,
Greg G.
In article <[email protected]>, Greg G. wrote:
> James "Cubby" Culbertson said:
>
> >Hiya,
> >About 75% done building my cyclone and am starting to think about electrics.
>
> Why don't you just get a Long Ranger. $65 and you're done.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004S9AG/qid=1098953556/sr=1-2
> /ref=sr_1_2/002-8057197-8168050?v=glance&s=hi
>
Well now, that is just too cool. I have an X10 on my little DC and truly
love it. I have been looking at bigger DC's but it really bugged me that
I would have to give up remote control. Now all I have to do is get one
of those puppies over the border.
PK
On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 21:48:17 -0600, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm thinking of going with X10 for my remote system.
I'd never buy an X10 product. Seen too much of it that went
unreliable too soon.
I also hate popup ads. A company that has tried so hard to annoy me
isn't getting _my_ money.
My DC controller is an old motor-start controller. I can put
pushbuttons for this anywhere I like, and that's only a low-current
cable to run. Dead simple, so I might actually get it all finished.
Of course in the future I can fool around with current sensing and
time delays as much as I like, but in the meantime I have something
that turns the DC on and off from the other side of the workshop, even
if it's not right in my pocket.
--
Smert' spamionam
I've been using a 220v x10 appliance controller for a DC for over 5 years now.
Have two sets of track lights for task lighting that're also on X10. With a
radio remote in another outlet and a couple of small controllers scattered or
in my pocket, it's worked out well. Even gave one to SWMBO so she can flash a
light to get my attention. The whole outfit costs less and was more useful
than that LongRanger one. Initially bought from X10 site, but their prices are
high. Latest buy was from www.safe-mart.com .
Using http://www.safe-mart.com/xheduapmopa.html for the DC.
The http://www.safe-mart.com/phr03.html includes a PHR03 remote control which
is too large for the pocket, but it does have considerably more range. The
include little PHR04 sits in your pocket or belt. The PAT01 included base
transceiver has worked out well. I just stuck a wire around the antenna and
taped it on the wall to extend the range a bit.
GerryG
On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 21:48:17 -0600, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hiya,
>About 75% done building my cyclone and am starting to think about electrics.
>This will be a 220v, 2hp driven cyclone.
>I'm thinking of going with X10 for my remote system. Here's what I had in
>mind and I was hoping there is someone that
>has done this already. Looking at getting their TM751
>(http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_tm751.htm) , their universal
>module (http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_um506.htm), and a remote. The
>UM506 puts out a low voltage signal which
>I was planning to use to switch a contactor connected to the 220V. Another
>option would be to use a module that put out
>120V to switch the contactor. Honestly, I haven't investigated contactors
>yet so not sure if I should be thinking 24v or 110v.
>
>Any advice on this is most appreciated (including part numbers if you got
>em!)
>
>Cheers,
>cc
>