Finishing Cherry: Choices

Since a clock doesn't have any need for serious protection like a
kitchen table or flooring I would use something easy like "natural"
Danish Oil (Watco). This will highlight the coloring, allow it to
darken, and is very easy to maintain.

TWS

Bill Waller <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I am making a cherry framed clock. I want the cherry to age naturally:
> no stain.
>
> Previously, I have used amber shellac on raw cherry and have been
> pleased with the results.
>
> But (there's always a "But"), was wondering if either cut boiled
> linseed oil or poly urethane would also give me a pleasing result.
>
> I do want the wood to darken (naturally) with age and therefore, do
> not want the finish to interfere with the process.
>
> Thoughts?
> Bill Waller
> New Eagle, PA
>
> [email protected]

The BLO or poly will have fairly different end results.

I built the cherry Shaker clock featured in Fine Woodworking a couple of
years ago. Christian Becksvoort said to use Tried and True Original on it,
which I did, and the color is coming along beautifully. There is little
surface build, even with a wax topcoating.

If you want more of a surface build, the Waterlox suggestion is a good,
simple one.

Patriarch

Bill Waller <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I am making a cherry framed clock. I want the cherry to age naturally:
> no stain.
>
> Previously, I have used amber shellac on raw cherry and have been
> pleased with the results.
>
> But (there's always a "But"), was wondering if either cut boiled
> linseed oil or poly urethane would also give me a pleasing result.
>
> I do want the wood to darken (naturally) with age and therefore, do
> not want the finish to interfere with the process.
>
> Thoughts?
> Bill Waller
> New Eagle, PA
>
> [email protected]

For a project like this that doesn't get much abuse (if any), cherry begs
for oil followed by shellac. Wipe it down with oil first. Tung oil is
nice because it pops the grain without the yellowing effect that boiled
linseed oil can have. Tried & True polymerized linseed oil is a good
second choice. That said, boiled linseed oil works well, but again, can
have a slight yellowing effect over time.

Follow the oil with shellac. If you like the look that amber gives, that's
fine. I use blonde. As you know, the sun will provide the natural
darkening.

Nothing pops and highlights the grain of cherry like oil and shellac. I
like products like Watco and Waterlox (for different purposes), but they
don't bring out the same look in cherry.

Try it out on some of your scraps.

~Jeff
in Memphis

"Bill Waller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> But (there's always a "But"), was wondering if either cut boiled linseed
> oil or
> poly urethane would also give me a pleasing result.

Depends on what pleases you. I've used both with good results.

>
> But (there's always a "But"), was wondering if either cut boiled linseed
oil or
> poly urethane would also give me a pleasing result.
>
I just built a cherry desk and used poly on the writing surface and oil on
the rest. It looks fine.

3 coats of waterlox of Watco danish oil is hard to beat, IMO.


"Bill Waller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a cherry framed clock. I want the cherry to age naturally: no
> stain.
>
> Previously, I have used amber shellac on raw cherry and have been pleased
with
> the results.
>
> But (there's always a "But"), was wondering if either cut boiled linseed
oil or
> poly urethane would also give me a pleasing result.
>
> I do want the wood to darken (naturally) with age and therefore, do not
want
> the finish to interfere with the process.
>
> Thoughts?
> Bill Waller
> New Eagle, PA
>
> [email protected]