Actually I can make almost everyone happy (still working on the wife) I did
a google on french cleats!
OUTWATER ITEM #: CON-111
ALUMINUM "Z" HANGING STRIPS: 2 Sizes
Master Catalog "Volume 50" - Page # : 730
Price: $9.09 (10 Feet)
The only real reason was that the cabinet rear was flush so I was concerned
with a using wood simply with the width.
This looks good and the price is cheap....
Thanks for your input! Joe
"Frank McVey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, Joe.
>
> Use french cleats. They can be as long as you want. Easy to make and
> install.
>
> Have a look at http://benchmark.20m.com/plans/FrenchCleat.pdf
>
> HTH
>
> Frank
>
> ".HMFIC@1369" <My [email protected]> wrote in message
> news:2pMbe.5875$Sk6.1518@trndny08...
> > I'm almost all done making my kitchen cabinets. I was going to just
screw
> > 'em on. Until I saw wall cleats? They look OK! but I didn't resess the
> > rear
> > panel (flush) and the 7/16's sticking out kinda bothers me (not a real
> > great
> > issue concerning that one, but....)
> >
> > What else can anyone recommend?
> >
> > TIA Joe
> >
> >
>
>
I installed uppers a couple of months ago. I ran cleats on the two
walls that took the cabs using strips of baltic birch. I did this
because it made installation much easier and ensured that they would
all be on the same plane.
My uppers have 1/2" plywood backs and are screwed directly into 2x4
blocking in the wall. I had this room down to the studs, so I took the
opportunity to run blocking between each stud. I used 3" drywall
screws to attach them, but since the screws will be visible when the
doors are open, I'm going to find some decorative screws to replace
them with. Shims were used to make everything plumb before driving the
screws home.
My cabs have cherry face frames. Before I install the base cabs, I
will remove the baltic birch cleats and replace them with strips of
cherry to match the look of the face frame. I feel comfortable with
the cabs screwed to the wall, but I tend to over engineer everything.
The cherry cleats will provide additional support and will actually
improve the look - IMHO.
.HMFIC@1369 wrote:
> I'm almost all done making my kitchen cabinets. I was going to just
screw
> 'em on. Until I saw wall cleats? They look OK! but I didn't resess
the rear
> panel (flush) and the 7/16's sticking out kinda bothers me (not a
real great
> issue concerning that one, but....)
>
> What else can anyone recommend?
>
> TIA Joe
".HMFIC@1369" <My [email protected]> wrote:
> http://outwaterhardware.com/catalog/form06.asp?pg=products&NU=Y&pn=CON-111
Lee Valley has it too:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=41869
--
mare
".HMFIC@1369" <My [email protected]> wrote in message
news:0tUbe.6800$RD.4488@trndny02...
> Actually I can make almost everyone happy (still working on the wife) I
did
> a google on french cleats!
>
> OUTWATER ITEM #: CON-111
> ALUMINUM "Z" HANGING STRIPS: 2 Sizes
> Master Catalog "Volume 50" - Page # : 730
>
> Price: $9.09 (10 Feet)
For this information to be useful, we need a URL. Could you post one?
Bob
.HMFIC@1369 wrote:
>
> I'm almost all done making my kitchen cabinets. I was going to just screw
> 'em on. Until I saw wall cleats? They look OK! but I didn't resess the rear
> panel (flush) and the 7/16's sticking out kinda bothers me (not a real great
> issue concerning that one, but....)
>
> What else can anyone recommend?
>
> TIA Joe
Why not "face frame" the back edges of the cabinets to get your
7/16ths? Go with 3/4" face frame and biscuit them on if
your want to get really anal about it.
charlie b
Better to over-engineer then under!
I was looking at metal (over engineering) cleats (my uppers are also
5/8th's"). The only real problem I see without cleats is the struggle to
hold and screw and align the cabinet. With just more pre-prep., the metal
cleats interlock so without any screwing they'll be very secure to the wall.
The current dilemma is the Metal cleats come in 18" length which your wood
design eliminates! If I can find 5' or 10' lengths of the steel cleats, I'll
probably go that way if not, I'll look at using wood as you have and save a
bundle.
Thanks, Joe
"Wyatt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I installed uppers a couple of months ago. I ran cleats on the two
> walls that took the cabs using strips of baltic birch. I did this
> because it made installation much easier and ensured that they would
> all be on the same plane.
>
> My uppers have 1/2" plywood backs and are screwed directly into 2x4
> blocking in the wall. I had this room down to the studs, so I took the
> opportunity to run blocking between each stud. I used 3" drywall
> screws to attach them, but since the screws will be visible when the
> doors are open, I'm going to find some decorative screws to replace
> them with. Shims were used to make everything plumb before driving the
> screws home.
>
> My cabs have cherry face frames. Before I install the base cabs, I
> will remove the baltic birch cleats and replace them with strips of
> cherry to match the look of the face frame. I feel comfortable with
> the cabs screwed to the wall, but I tend to over engineer everything.
> The cherry cleats will provide additional support and will actually
> improve the look - IMHO.
>
>
>
> .HMFIC@1369 wrote:
> > I'm almost all done making my kitchen cabinets. I was going to just
> screw
> > 'em on. Until I saw wall cleats? They look OK! but I didn't resess
> the rear
> > panel (flush) and the 7/16's sticking out kinda bothers me (not a
> real great
> > issue concerning that one, but....)
> >
> > What else can anyone recommend?
> >
> > TIA Joe
>
Hi, Joe.
Use french cleats. They can be as long as you want. Easy to make and
install.
Have a look at http://benchmark.20m.com/plans/FrenchCleat.pdf
HTH
Frank
".HMFIC@1369" <My [email protected]> wrote in message
news:2pMbe.5875$Sk6.1518@trndny08...
> I'm almost all done making my kitchen cabinets. I was going to just screw
> 'em on. Until I saw wall cleats? They look OK! but I didn't resess the
> rear
> panel (flush) and the 7/16's sticking out kinda bothers me (not a real
> great
> issue concerning that one, but....)
>
> What else can anyone recommend?
>
> TIA Joe
>
>
Thanks! I still consider that the gap would allow trim and "possibly" make
it "fancier" looking or may not. I'm more of a nut's and bolts type and the
cleats, well for no real reason seem like "possibly more work I assume
though the Cleats must be flush, level straight and true to the Wall and
Cabinet. before mounting the cabinets. The one problem I see right now is
that I can only get 18 inch length's of metal cleats. Having 5 or 10'
lengths for the Wall would save me a great deal of work making sure it's
true. I saw an episode on Bob Villa's a while back where his cabinets had
what looked to be two long cleats running across the length of the wall
making it just like racking the cabinets in... Instead of having to do every
18 inches or so.....
Thanks again! Joe
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Cleats are just for ease of installation. However, if you wanted to use
> them you could always trim out the gap. In most cases the cabinets
> won't match the wall exactly anyway and you scribe a piece of trim to
> the wall to cover the gap anyway.
>
On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 17:56:31 GMT, ".HMFIC@1369" <My [email protected]>
wrote:
>Thanks! I still consider that the gap would allow trim and "possibly" make
>it "fancier" looking or may not. I'm more of a nut's and bolts type and the
>cleats, well for no real reason seem like "possibly more work I assume
>though the Cleats must be flush, level straight and true to the Wall and
>Cabinet. before mounting the cabinets. The one problem I see right now is
>that I can only get 18 inch length's of metal cleats. Having 5 or 10'
>lengths for the Wall would save me a great deal of work making sure it's
>true. I saw an episode on Bob Villa's a while back where his cabinets had
>what looked to be two long cleats running across the length of the wall
>making it just like racking the cabinets in... Instead of having to do every
>18 inches or so.....
Not sure what kind of woodworking equipment you've got, but you can
make your own cleats out of hardwood but cutting a mitered corner
along the edge of a piece of timber on your table saw... Then you
don't have to worry about what lengths are sold commerically. My only
caveat here is that I've always felt that the main value of cleats is
that they will support a heavy object in a wall with too few studs by
evenly distributing the wieght over several points, thereby reducing
the wieght that each screw is required to support. If you have the
option to attach your cabinets to directly to the studs, I can't see a
compelling reason to use cleats.
If you're considering just using the commerically available cleats for
convieniance's sake, there are several models of laser levels on the
market, and some of them are pretty inexpensive, though you can expect
to do a little work getting them set up. I've got a $20 version for
hanging pictures, and it actually works ok, provided you take the time
to make sure it is adjusted properly. While it isn't very classy, it
would work just fine for installing cleats.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
Sure thing.... I just have no experience with them yet!
http://outwaterhardware.com/catalog/form06.asp?pg=products&NU=Y&pn=CON-111
"BillyBob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> ".HMFIC@1369" <My [email protected]> wrote in message
> news:0tUbe.6800$RD.4488@trndny02...
> > Actually I can make almost everyone happy (still working on the wife) I
> did
> > a google on french cleats!
> >
> > OUTWATER ITEM #: CON-111
> > ALUMINUM "Z" HANGING STRIPS: 2 Sizes
> > Master Catalog "Volume 50" - Page # : 730
> >
> > Price: $9.09 (10 Feet)
>
> For this information to be useful, we need a URL. Could you post one?
>
> Bob
>
>