My Craftsman mitre saw (10" Professional 113.234633C, ~15 years old)
seems to be showing its age. The biggest symptom is that the blade
brake doesn't work any more. It used to stop the blade very quickly
after releasing the trigger, but now the blade spins for 5(?) seconds
after I release the trigger.
It also seems to take a few seconds to come up to full speed, and I
remember that it spun up much faster when it was newer (didn't we
all?).
Other that these nits, it still cuts fine. I pulled the brushes, and
based on a quick visual, they seem ok - lots of "meat" left, not too
much evidence of arcing.
Are these signs that I should start shopping for a new saw? Is there
an adjustment/wear item involved in the blade brake that I should
check?
TIA,
Chris
[email protected] wrote:
> My Craftsman mitre saw (10" Professional 113.234633C, ~15 years old)
> seems to be showing its age. The biggest symptom is that the blade
> brake doesn't work any more. It used to stop the blade very quickly
> after releasing the trigger, but now the blade spins for 5(?) seconds
> after I release the trigger.
>
> It also seems to take a few seconds to come up to full speed, and I
> remember that it spun up much faster when it was newer (didn't we
> all?).
>
> Other that these nits, it still cuts fine. I pulled the brushes, and
> based on a quick visual, they seem ok - lots of "meat" left, not too
> much evidence of arcing.
>
> Are these signs that I should start shopping for a new saw? Is there
> an adjustment/wear item involved in the blade brake that I should
> check?
>
> TIA,
> Chris
I'm thinking that you need (read WANT) a new miter saw. The traditional
method of convincing self and SWMBO is to invent a project of great
benefit to all concerned for which a new miter saw is a necessity (read
REQUIRED). Sell the old timer before it breaks and becomes worthless
and go buy a good one. You will love it.
Mr. Happiness,
jo4hn
On Apr 29, 11:17=A0pm, Gordon Shumway <[email protected]> wrote:
> My opinion of Craftsman is reinforced by the fact that yet another of
> their poor quality tools is failing prematurely. =A0This time replace it
> with a quality tool that will last the rest of your life.
>
> snip <
Well, it was a good idea at the time - on sale, available locally, and
I had just moved into a "fixer upper".
Based on what I read in the newsgroups, I probably would never buy
another Craftsman stationary tool, but I have to say that my
"cabinetmaker series" table saw and this mitre saw have served me
fairly well. On the other hand, I have a Delta drill press that's
been a POS since it was purchased.
Champagne taste, beer budget, I guess.
Chris
On Apr 30, 6:34=A0pm, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Have you looked at your manual to identify the braking mechanism and then
> looked at the Sears spare parts website
>
> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieveModelDet...
>
> to see if you can buy a part to repair the problem?
>
> Dick Snyder
>
I can't find anything conveniently labeled "blade brake". I imagine
it works by turning the spinning motor into a generator and switching
the output to a resistance of some sort, but I don't see any
convenient labels for that either.
Guess I'll order a pair of brushes from Sears (~$10 ea).
On Thu, 30 Apr 2009 06:11:40 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>On Apr 29, 11:17 pm, Gordon Shumway <[email protected]> wrote:
>> My opinion of Craftsman is reinforced by the fact that yet another of
>> their poor quality tools is failing prematurely. This time replace it
>> with a quality tool that will last the rest of your life.
>>
>> snip <
>
>Well, it was a good idea at the time - on sale, available locally, and
>I had just moved into a "fixer upper".
>
>Based on what I read in the newsgroups, I probably would never buy
>another Craftsman stationary tool, but I have to say that my
>"cabinetmaker series" table saw and this mitre saw have served me
>fairly well. On the other hand, I have a Delta drill press that's
>been a POS since it was purchased.
>
>Champagne taste, beer budget, I guess.
>
>Chris
It may have been on sale but Craftsman regular prices are not a
bargain compared to other quality tools. You get what you pay for.
Now your beer budget is going to have to pay for a second saw and that
is getting real expensive.
G.S.
Have you looked at your manual to identify the braking mechanism and then
looked at the Sears spare parts website
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieveModelDetails.pd?modelNumber=113234630&productCategoryId=0744300&brandId=0247&modelName=10
to see if you can buy a part to repair the problem?
Dick Snyder
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My Craftsman mitre saw (10" Professional 113.234633C, ~15 years old)
> seems to be showing its age. The biggest symptom is that the blade
> brake doesn't work any more. It used to stop the blade very quickly
> after releasing the trigger, but now the blade spins for 5(?) seconds
> after I release the trigger.
>
> It also seems to take a few seconds to come up to full speed, and I
> remember that it spun up much faster when it was newer (didn't we
> all?).
>
> Other that these nits, it still cuts fine. I pulled the brushes, and
> based on a quick visual, they seem ok - lots of "meat" left, not too
> much evidence of arcing.
>
> Are these signs that I should start shopping for a new saw? Is there
> an adjustment/wear item involved in the blade brake that I should
> check?
>
> TIA,
> Chris
"Gordon Shumway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 30 Apr 2009 11:18:15 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Gordon Shumway <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> My Makita LS1013 is about the same age as your saw.
>>
>>That is not a Saturday afternoon hobbyist tool at $540!!
>
> Maybe not, but buy the time he buys a second saw he will have spent
> about the same money -- or more.
Sounds like the one he has is still working fine. Why would he be buying a
second one?
--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.
You may well be right. See here:
http://www.womeninwoodworking.com/forum/messageview.cfm?FTVAR_FORUMVIEWTMP=Threaded&catid=3&threadid=979
Dick
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:439c2e58-814e-45f1-bef4-ec36a9daa0d4@v35g2000pro.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 30, 6:34 pm, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Have you looked at your manual to identify the braking mechanism and then
> looked at the Sears spare parts website
>
> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieveModelDet...
>
> to see if you can buy a part to repair the problem?
>
> Dick Snyder
>
I can't find anything conveniently labeled "blade brake". I imagine
it works by turning the spinning motor into a generator and switching
the output to a resistance of some sort, but I don't see any
convenient labels for that either.
Guess I'll order a pair of brushes from Sears (~$10 ea).
Gordon Shumway <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> My Makita LS1013 is about the same age as your saw.
That is not a Saturday afternoon hobbyist tool at $540!!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>My Craftsman mitre saw (10" Professional 113.234633C, ~15 years old)
>seems to be showing its age. The biggest symptom is that the blade
>brake doesn't work any more. It used to stop the blade very quickly
>after releasing the trigger, but now the blade spins for 5(?) seconds
>after I release the trigger.
>
>It also seems to take a few seconds to come up to full speed, and I
>remember that it spun up much faster when it was newer (didn't we
>all?).
Make sure that the arbor nut is tight -- if it's loose enough to allow the
blade to slip a little bit, that will produce exactly the symptoms you
describe -- both of them. DAMHIKT.
Sounds like the commutator on the armature needs some work. You need a good
fit between the brushes and the commutator for the braking action to work
properly, and also for the motor to have good torque. You may need to get
the commutator turned and undercut to restore it to good health.
Doug
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My Craftsman mitre saw (10" Professional 113.234633C, ~15 years old)
> seems to be showing its age. The biggest symptom is that the blade
> brake doesn't work any more. It used to stop the blade very quickly
> after releasing the trigger, but now the blade spins for 5(?) seconds
> after I release the trigger.
>
> It also seems to take a few seconds to come up to full speed, and I
> remember that it spun up much faster when it was newer (didn't we
> all?).
>
> Other that these nits, it still cuts fine. I pulled the brushes, and
> based on a quick visual, they seem ok - lots of "meat" left, not too
> much evidence of arcing.
>
> Are these signs that I should start shopping for a new saw? Is there
> an adjustment/wear item involved in the blade brake that I should
> check?
>
> TIA,
> Chris
[email protected] wrote:
> On Apr 30, 6:34 pm, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Have you looked at your manual to identify the braking mechanism and
>> then looked at the Sears spare parts website
>>
>> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieveModelDet...
>>
>> to see if you can buy a part to repair the problem?
>>
>> Dick Snyder
>>
>
> I can't find anything conveniently labeled "blade brake". I imagine
> it works by turning the spinning motor into a generator and switching
> the output to a resistance of some sort, but I don't see any
> convenient labels for that either.
>
> Guess I'll order a pair of brushes from Sears (~$10 ea).
Why pay retail + 50%?
Take the brushes to Graingers and say "Here's a dollar. Gimmie some like
this."
My opinion of Craftsman is reinforced by the fact that yet another of
their poor quality tools is failing prematurely. This time replace it
with a quality tool that will last the rest of your life.
My Makita LS1013 is about the same age as your saw. Mine performs as
well today as it did when I bought it. Unfortunately, like you, I had
to buy it when my 12" Dewalt didn't perform as it should have. My
son-in-law now has a Dewalt that is worth every penny he didn't pay
for it and he is happy and I'm happy because I don't have it.
G.S.
On Wed, 29 Apr 2009 17:43:54 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>My Craftsman mitre saw (10" Professional 113.234633C, ~15 years old)
>seems to be showing its age. The biggest symptom is that the blade
>brake doesn't work any more. It used to stop the blade very quickly
>after releasing the trigger, but now the blade spins for 5(?) seconds
>after I release the trigger.
>
>It also seems to take a few seconds to come up to full speed, and I
>remember that it spun up much faster when it was newer (didn't we
>all?).
>
>Other that these nits, it still cuts fine. I pulled the brushes, and
>based on a quick visual, they seem ok - lots of "meat" left, not too
>much evidence of arcing.
>
>Are these signs that I should start shopping for a new saw? Is there
>an adjustment/wear item involved in the blade brake that I should
>check?
>
>TIA,
>Chris
On Thu, 30 Apr 2009 11:18:15 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Gordon Shumway <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> My Makita LS1013 is about the same age as your saw.
>
>That is not a Saturday afternoon hobbyist tool at $540!!
Maybe not, but buy the time he buys a second saw he will have spent
about the same money -- or more.
G.S.
On Wed, 29 Apr 2009 17:43:54 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>Other that these nits, it still cuts fine. I pulled the brushes, and
>based on a quick visual, they seem ok - lots of "meat" left, not too
>much evidence of arcing.
>
>Are these signs that I should start shopping for a new saw? Is there
>an adjustment/wear item involved in the blade brake that I should
>check?
I would go ahead and replace the brushes.
Even though they seem to have plenty of meat, they may have been a lot
longer when new. That's the cheapest repair you can make and if it
gets the brake working you may extend the life a little.
If that fix is only temporary then, as Doug suggested, you may be in
for a more extensive repair. If that's the case, a new one probably
won't cost much more than the repair.
Mike O.