I am installing hard Maple pre-finished harwood floor in my second floor
bedroom. The floor seems to slope up a little bit from one end to the
other along the length of the room. About 17" from the wall it then
slopes down between 1/4" to 1/2'. I started laying down the planks from
the good side and after a few row had problem going over the ridge. If
the board is long than the edges are not flush. The outer board is
slightly higer.
Initially I started ensuring that the boards end approx 17"before the
wall and use a different piece for the last end. There are 2 problems
with this technique. I got a fairly straight joint line about 17" from
the wall (offset by an inch or two) and the second is the floor seems to
slope over the other side.
As I add more rows the slope seems to gradually increase. the boards
seem to be sitting fairly tightly on the sub floor with no gaps.
Is this going to create problems for me later? Will the floor open up at
the ridge later in the years? I have tried not to bend the planks to
fit, thereby avoiding any tension on the wood. I am hoping that this
will prevent the wood from snapping out. is there a better way?
I don't want to rip the already laid down floor to fix this. I am also
thinking of removing some of the end planks and than place some shimmy's
on the end to level the floor. Maybe cut strips of 1/4"ply and place
near the wall. Will this work? It may leave a gap between the floor and
the sub. Will this cause the floor to squeak later? I need a quick
solution as I want to finish the flooring by the next weekend.
Anyone with similar experience, please advise.
Thank You.
"Charley" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I had this problem in a home that I previously owned installing a
> refinished oak floor and solved it by laying the floor at 90 degrees
> to what I had planned originally. With the boards running parallel to
> the slope they accommodate the transition better and the problem is
> less noticeable.
>
This should not be done on any subfloor less than 1 1/8" unless some cross
bracing is installed in the joisting. Hardwood should always run accross
the joists on todays standard plywood 3/4" subfloor. If you have cardecking
or other, that may not pertain.
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I had this problem in a home that I previously owned installing a refinished
oak floor and solved it by laying the floor at 90 degrees to what I had
planned originally. With the boards running parallel to the slope they
accommodate the transition better and the problem is less noticeable.
--
Charley
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viruses by Norton Anti Virus 2004
"MM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am installing hard Maple pre-finished harwood floor in my second floor
> bedroom. The floor seems to slope up a little bit from one end to the
> other along the length of the room. About 17" from the wall it then
> slopes down between 1/4" to 1/2'. I started laying down the planks from
> the good side and after a few row had problem going over the ridge. If
> the board is long than the edges are not flush. The outer board is
> slightly higer.
> Initially I started ensuring that the boards end approx 17"before the
> wall and use a different piece for the last end. There are 2 problems
> with this technique. I got a fairly straight joint line about 17" from
> the wall (offset by an inch or two) and the second is the floor seems to
> slope over the other side.
> As I add more rows the slope seems to gradually increase. the boards
> seem to be sitting fairly tightly on the sub floor with no gaps.
>
> Is this going to create problems for me later? Will the floor open up at
> the ridge later in the years? I have tried not to bend the planks to
> fit, thereby avoiding any tension on the wood. I am hoping that this
> will prevent the wood from snapping out. is there a better way?
>
> I don't want to rip the already laid down floor to fix this. I am also
> thinking of removing some of the end planks and than place some shimmy's
> on the end to level the floor. Maybe cut strips of 1/4"ply and place
> near the wall. Will this work? It may leave a gap between the floor and
> the sub. Will this cause the floor to squeak later? I need a quick
> solution as I want to finish the flooring by the next weekend.
>
> Anyone with similar experience, please advise.
>
> Thank You.