My New Bosch Miter Saw Is Defective. :-(

Not every piece of manufactured goods comes out of the box correct. I had =
a 10" single bevel MS that did that, and man you should have seen how it ac=
ted up on bevels. Regardless, if the saw will only hold to 1/32", you are =
doing the right thing to send it back.

I sent my back, too. I cut 5 1/2" wide pieces of cab ply to true it after =
that was discovered, and I did everything I could think of. Reoriented the=
blade, put the keeper nut on in a different rotation when tightening, etc.

Finally I wired the blade guard back and held a pencil next to the teeth an=
d rotated it slowly with the blade tightened on the shaft. Where the blade=
touched the tip of a tooth (actually it was two), I marked it. Loosened t=
he blade, rotated it 90 degrees, and the marks when right along with the ne=
w orientation. Local DeWalt repair shop told me that he didn't know if the=
inside collet was pressed onto the shaft, or if the shaft was actually par=
t of the motor. =20

In any event, after I showed him what I had done he pronounced it "unfixabl=
e" and gave me a new one.

The point being, probably doesn't matter at this point what the culprit mig=
ht be, just move on.

Robert

On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 9:14:30 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 9:35:42 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> > On 1/30/17 8:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > > Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter
> > > saw on Amazon.
> > >
> > > I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it
> > > is defective.

Bummer! BTW, the board(s) you cut... quality time test cut(s) or what's the new project? That board doesn't look like scrap.

Sonny

On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 11:17:31 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 10:36:25 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> > On 1/31/2017 7:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > > On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:09:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> > >> On 1/31/2017 7:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > >>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> > >>>> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
> > >>>>> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
> > >>>> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
> > >>>>
> > >>>> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
> > >>>> causes it to move during the cut.
> > >>>
> > >>> I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
> > >>> my work where I can get good wood.
> > >>>
> > >>> I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
> > >>> clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
> > >>> possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.
> > >
> > > It be the saw.
> > >
> > > Here is the 1/2" MDF:
> > >
> > > http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
> > >
> > > I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
> > > down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without the
> > > hold down clamp, but it's still there.
> > >
> > > I also tried to eliminate user error by keeping some left-ward pressure
> > > on the head unit throughout the entire cut. Theoretically, this should
> > > have pulled the front of the blade away from the board, eliminating the
> > > groove. As you can see, it did not.
> > >
> > > The call goes into Amazon tomorrow.
> > >
> > > Dammit!
> > >
> >
> >
> > Well that sucks. I would not give this particular saw a third chance...
> > Did you by any chance check the serial number or determine when it was
> > built? Wondering if this was one of the early ones that had issues.
>
> I just spoke to Amazon. I have to give them props.
>
> As in the past, it took less than a minute on hold to speak to a live person. After I explained
> the situation and let her know that I wanted a replacement, she put me on hold for a few
> minutes and when she came back she told that the return authorization will be sent via
> email, the replacement saw should arrive on Friday and UPS will pick up the broken one
> tomorrow.
>
> It's supposed to be a busy weekend for me, but I'll set the saw up as soon as possible and
> do some more testing. Stay tuned!

OK, so I set the new saw up and tested it.

As far as I can tell, it's fine. No groove as the blade comes to a rest.
When I cut a piece of 1 x 12 pine, the cut looks the same from start to
finish. When I cut a piece 1/2 x 12 MDF, I can see a slight difference
in the cut in the area where the blade is stationary (parked?) as it spins
to a stop. It is slightly darker and maybe a tad bit smoother.

This could be because that section of the board only sees the teeth "once".
What I mean by that is that when the "slide" is in motion, the portion
of the board that extends beyond the front of the parked blade always has
a point that is contact with the teeth on the back of the blade as it cuts
though and another point that is contact with - or very close to - the teeth
on the front of the blade. That doesn't happen to the portion of the board
nearer the fence. All that portion ever sees is the teeth on back of the
blade as it cuts through.

Like I said, I don't even see that minuscule difference on the pine, just
the MDF.

This saw took a little bit more adjustment to get the blade square to the
fence, but the adjustment is so damn easy it doesn't matter. 1/32" off or
1" off, it's still just a matter of loosening 4 screws, rotating the table
until the blade contacts the square and then tightening down the screws.
Nothing moves as you tighten the screws, unlike my old Delta where the fence
was what you had to adjust and which always moved when you tried to tighten
down the huge bolts behind the fence.

I'll play some more tomorrow and change out the blade a few times just to
make sure that nothing crops up after some more use.

On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> >
> > Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
> > clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
> >
>
> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
>
> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
> causes it to move during the cut.

I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
my work where I can get good wood.

I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.

On 1/30/2017 9:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter saw on
> Amazon.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R4E9A
>
> I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it is
> defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and when I described
> the problem, he said to return it and get a new one.
>
> Here's the issue:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
>
> If I leave the head unit down until the blade stops, it leaves that mark.
> Every time, every blade. I tried the Bosch 60 tooth blade that came with
> the saw, I tried a Dewalt 60 tooth Fine Crosscutting blade and a tried a
> Diablo 40 tooth General Purpose blade. Every time, every blade.
>
> It was not leaving that mark during my initial testing, so something
> obviously happened since then.
>
> The tech suspects that the blade is wobbling. He suggested checking both the
> inner and outer washers and the face of the head unit behind the inner washer.
> If I don't see anything obvious (I don't) then it could be the bearings.
>
> In any case, I'm still within the 30 day return period for Amazon, so I'm
> going to call them tomorrow, get a return authorization and request a
> replacement.
>
> Sucks.
>

Interesting that CPO now sells a reconditioned unit for $599 while
amazon is 549 for a new one.

Same with the 12".. I looked at them 2 years ago, and the cpo units were
100 to 150 less than new... so it's very interesting that the prices
have flipped.

--
Jeff

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Monday, February 6, 2017 at 7:53:43 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

>=20
> I'll certainly look in to that, but geez I hope I never have to do=20
> siding again..
>=20
> So do they work on the 3/4" stuff too?

With the right tools and a couple of homemade jigs, it isn't really harder =
than any other siding. I have installed a lot of Hardie and its relatives =
on the rear elevation of 3/4 masonry houses when the home owners finally ge=
t tired of upkeep. I like it because I can put on the planking by myself i=
f I need to, even in full lengths.

The shear will gnaw through siding up to 7/16", and actually has replaceabl=
e blades. I have a fair amount of use on mine and it still cuts very well.

I tried the diamond wheel you referenced, and waaaay too much dust for me s=
ince it is literally grinding its way through the material. I found that a=
12-14 tooth carbide wood blade (big teeth,NOT small like the Freuds) chewe=
d through the trims easily and quickly, and will last a full job.

Robert

On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 10:36:25 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 1/31/2017 7:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:09:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> On 1/31/2017 7:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> >>>> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
> >>>>> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
> >>>> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
> >>>>
> >>>> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
> >>>> causes it to move during the cut.
> >>>
> >>> I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
> >>> my work where I can get good wood.
> >>>
> >>> I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
> >>> clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
> >>> possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.
> >
> > It be the saw.
> >
> > Here is the 1/2" MDF:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
> >
> > I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
> > down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without the
> > hold down clamp, but it's still there.
> >
> > I also tried to eliminate user error by keeping some left-ward pressure
> > on the head unit throughout the entire cut. Theoretically, this should
> > have pulled the front of the blade away from the board, eliminating the
> > groove. As you can see, it did not.
> >
> > The call goes into Amazon tomorrow.
> >
> > Dammit!
> >
>
>
> Well that sucks. I would not give this particular saw a third chance...
> Did you by any chance check the serial number or determine when it was
> built? Wondering if this was one of the early ones that had issues.

I just spoke to Amazon. I have to give them props.

As in the past, it took less than a minute on hold to speak to a live person. After I explained
the situation and let her know that I wanted a replacement, she put me on hold for a few
minutes and when she came back she told that the return authorization will be sent via
email, the replacement saw should arrive on Friday and UPS will pick up the broken one
tomorrow.

It's supposed to be a busy weekend for me, but I'll set the saw up as soon as possible and
do some more testing. Stay tuned!

"Brewster" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

> On 1/31/17 9:01 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> > "DerbyDad03" wrote in message

>> > http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
>
>> That photo makes me wonder if there is end play in the arbor/shaft such
> > that under power the arbor/shaft and blade move away from the motor and
> then as the blade comes to a rest they move back towards the motor.
> >
> > I wonder this based on prior experience...
> >
> >

> I had the same issue with a non-sliding 12" CMS. Ended up being the motor
> brake (which turns the motor into a generator/load when the switch is
> released). This (and many other) saws use helical cut gears to transfer
> motor power to the blade. The change in torque direction when the motor
> brake gets applied was causing the blade drive gear to shift slightly. I
> added a thin shim (0.003") to the gear shaft, tightening it up in its
> housing. Problem eliminated!

> Basically came down to bad assembly/setup at the factory.

I was kind of surprised that no one else had detected what I had... until
now.

I wonder what the end play spec is during assembly? Were there any end play
shims in evidence when you installed your shim?

John

On Sunday, February 5, 2017 at 11:08:20 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 2/5/2017 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
> > On 2/4/17 12:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
> >> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>> I pretty much decided if I ever get a cement board siding job, I'm just
> >>> going to buy a new POS miter saw and chalk it up as a disposable/rental
> >>> expense.
> >>>
> >>> Harbor Freight has a super cheap CMS that I've heard actually performs
> >>> decently. I think it would be a good candidate.
> >>
> >> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >>> I have a Harbor Freight 10" for outside and construction jobs. I'll
> >>> have to reside one side of my house this spring but the Bosch will
> >>> stay in the basement.
> >>
> >> Exactly ... picked up a Ridgid at the Borg, for under $200, Section 179,
> >> expendable bucks.
> >>
> >
> > I bought one of those cement siding specific blades (Hardie board) for
> > my Skill saw. Widely spaced carbide tipped teeth. Kinda spendy and the
> > teeth came off after maybe 20 linear feet of cuts. I went back to a dirt
> > cheap HF carbide blade, they last a long time and certainly a better
> > cost/benefit that the expensive blade.
> >
> > -BR
> >
>
>
> I have cut a lot of Hardie with a dedicated Sears circular saw and with
> a diamond blade, no teeth. It works well but stirs a lot of dust.
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Skil-7-in-Wet-or-Dry-Turbo-Diamond-Circular-Saw-Blade/3142677

You want dust? I cut this stone riser with a POS Craftsman circular saw
using one of those diamond blades.

http://i.imgur.com/k44Xzny.jpg

Luckily, that job killed the saw (my first one). My next, and current saw,
is a PC 743 left blade.

A veteran framer introduced me to left blade circular saws. As a right
handed person, I don't have to lean over the saw to see the cut line.

IOW, I don't have to do this:

http://tinyurl.com/right-blade

DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 3:10:01 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 2:18:36 PM UTC-5, woodchucker wrote:
>> > On 1/30/2017 9:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > > Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD
>> > > miter saw on Amazon.
>> > >
>> > > https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R
>> > > 4E9A
>> > >
>> > > I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like
>> > > it is defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and
>> > > when I described the problem, he said to return it and get a new
>> > > one.
>> > >
>> > > Here's the issue:
>> > >
>> > > http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
>> > >
>> > > If I leave the head unit down until the blade stops, it leaves
>> > > that mark. Every time, every blade. I tried the Bosch 60 tooth
>> > > blade that came with the saw, I tried a Dewalt 60 tooth Fine
>> > > Crosscutting blade and a tried a Diablo 40 tooth General Purpose
>> > > blade. Every time, every blade.
>> > >
>> > > It was not leaving that mark during my initial testing, so
>> > > something obviously happened since then.
>> > >
>> > > The tech suspects that the blade is wobbling. He suggested
>> > > checking both the inner and outer washers and the face of the
>> > > head unit behind the inner washer. If I don't see anything
>> > > obvious (I don't) then it could be the bearings.
>> > >
>> > > In any case, I'm still within the 30 day return period for
>> > > Amazon, so I'm going to call them tomorrow, get a return
>> > > authorization and request a replacement.
>> > >
>> > > Sucks.
>> > >
>> >
>> > Interesting that CPO now sells a reconditioned unit for $599 while
>> > amazon is 549 for a new one.
>> >
>> > Same with the 12".. I looked at them 2 years ago, and the cpo units
>> > were 100 to 150 less than new... so it's very interesting that the
>> > prices have flipped.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Jeff
>> >
>>
>> Whatever the price, I now have 2 of them! ;-)
>>
>> UPS just delivered the replacement saw but they haven't picked up the
>> old one yet.
>
> UPS can be a pain!
>
> I set it up with Amazon so that UPS would pick up the defective saw.
> Turns out UPS only picks up on weekdays during normal business hours
> and that someone must be there to hand over the package. They'll
> *leave* a $600 saw based on a note on the front door, but they won't
> take one away.

I can understand that, kinda. If the driver picks up the wrong box at
the minimum it can be a hassle to get back. In some areas it could be
considered theft and UPS and the driver might be liable.

>
> Since there is never going to be anyone home on weekdays during normal
> business hours, I decided to bring the 78 lb package to a nearby UPS
> Store. I called them first and told that the only tracking number I
> had was the "pick-up" tracking number, having been told by Amazon that
> the driver would create the shipping label when he picked up the box.
>
> The nice lady at the UPS store said they could not create a shipping
> label from the pick-up tracking number, only one of the 2 "Customer
> Centers" in my area could. Guess when the Customer Centers are open.
> Yep, weekdays, during normal business hours. (Actually, one of them is
> open until 8PM, but still, no Saturday hours.)

I'm not sure if the UPS Store is actually part of UPS or just affiliated
with them. My sister used to work at Mailboxes, Etc. before they turned
into The UPS Store.

> So I called Amazon, explained the situation and they emailed me a
> return shipping label and cancelled the pick-up request. This is one
> of the reasons I bought a mini-van even though the kids moved out
> years ago. I tossed (more or less) the huge box in the back of the
> van, took it over to the UPS store and sent it on it's way.
>

Good on them to make this work. They earned the next sale.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 11:03:34 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
> On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 9:14:30 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 9:35:42 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> > > On 1/30/17 8:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > > > Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter
> > > > saw on Amazon.
> > > >
> > > > I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like i=
t
> > > > is defective.
>=20
> Bummer! BTW, the board(s) you cut... quality time test cut(s) or what's =
the new project? That board doesn't look like scrap.
>=20
> Sonny

Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the =
hold-down=20
clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.

The "project" is to test various techniques for applying MinWax Navy Blue s=
tain. My sister asked
me to assemble and finish a Secretary's Desk kit that she bought. I needed =
a pine board that
matched the wood used for the desk. For $10 I got a 4=E2=80=99 1 x 12 that =
I could not only get a bunch=20
of test pieces from, but I could also test the full range of the new saw.

On Sunday, February 5, 2017 at 10:08:20 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
=20
> I have cut a lot of Hardie with a dedicated Sears circular saw and with=
=20
> a diamond blade, no teeth. It works well but stirs a lot of dust.

I am the only one here that uses a shear? I can't imagine using a saw on c=
ementitious board, regardless of manufacturer. I bought my shear about 15 =
- 18 years ago and it still has the same blades. A small learning curve, b=
ut no dust, nothing but little curly strips to clean up, much faster than a=
saw, more accurate, much safer (no dust mask needed)and very quiet, too.

I saw 1x4 trims, and that's it.

Leon... you have always been a "right tool for the job guy", so if another =
cement board job comes along, I can't recommend a shear enough.

Robert

On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 11:24:23 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:25:49 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> > On 1/31/2017 8:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >=20
> > >> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying aro=
und.
> > >
> > > It be the saw.
> > >
> > > Here is the 1/2" MDF:
> > >
> > > http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
> > >
> > > I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
> > > down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without th=
e
> > > hold down clamp, but it's still there.
> >=20
> > That sucks..I don't have a slider but is it common practice to stop the=
=20
> > blade while in the kerf?
>=20
> Yes. You'll find comments like this all over the web and in most instruct=
ion=20
> manuals:
>=20
> "Tip #3: Stop before you lift.
>=20
> After making a cut on your mitersaw, always allow the blade to stop spinn=
ing
> before lifting the saw. Prematurely raising it could score the end of you=
r=20
> workpiece. The spinning blade could also snag the cutoff and dangerously=
=20
> propel it at a high speed."
>=20
> "Wait Until the Blade Stops
>=20
> Be honest: How many dangerous missiles have you launched from your miter=
=20
> saw? We=E2=80=99ve all done it. Small cutoffs are the worst, of course. B=
ut it=E2=80=99s=20
> not rocket science to figure out how to ground them: Don=E2=80=99t lift t=
he blade
> until it stops. Make the cut, let go of the trigger and count to five.=20
> That=E2=80=99s not so hard, is it?"

I should add that the above comments are not just for sliding miters. The=
=20
practice should be used with all miter saws.

On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:25:49 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 1/31/2017 8:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>=20
> >> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying aroun=
d.
> >
> > It be the saw.
> >
> > Here is the 1/2" MDF:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
> >
> > I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
> > down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without the
> > hold down clamp, but it's still there.
>=20
> That sucks..I don't have a slider but is it common practice to stop the=
=20
> blade while in the kerf?

Yes. You'll find comments like this all over the web and in most instructio=
n=20
manuals:

"Tip #3: Stop before you lift.

After making a cut on your mitersaw, always allow the blade to stop spinnin=
g before lifting the saw. Prematurely raising it could score the end of you=
r workpiece. The spinning blade could also snag the cutoff and dangerously =
propel it at a high speed."

"Wait Until the Blade Stops

Be honest: How many dangerous missiles have you launched from your miter sa=
w? We=E2=80=99ve all done it. Small cutoffs are the worst, of course. But i=
t=E2=80=99s not rocket science to figure out how to ground them: Don=E2=80=
=99t lift the blade until it stops. Make the cut, let go of the trigger and=
count to five. That=E2=80=99s not so hard, is it?"

On 2/4/2017 3:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 11:17:31 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 10:36:25 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>> On 1/31/2017 7:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:09:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 1/31/2017 7:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>>>>> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
>>>>>>>> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
>>>>>>> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
>>>>>>> causes it to move during the cut.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
>>>>>> my work where I can get good wood.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
>>>>>> clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
>>>>>> possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.
>>>>
>>>> It be the saw.
>>>>
>>>> Here is the 1/2" MDF:
>>>>
>>>> http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
>>>>
>>>> I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
>>>> down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without the
>>>> hold down clamp, but it's still there.
>>>>
>>>> I also tried to eliminate user error by keeping some left-ward pressure
>>>> on the head unit throughout the entire cut. Theoretically, this should
>>>> have pulled the front of the blade away from the board, eliminating the
>>>> groove. As you can see, it did not.
>>>>
>>>> The call goes into Amazon tomorrow.
>>>>
>>>> Dammit!
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Well that sucks. I would not give this particular saw a third chance...
>>> Did you by any chance check the serial number or determine when it was
>>> built? Wondering if this was one of the early ones that had issues.
>>
>> I just spoke to Amazon. I have to give them props.
>>
>> As in the past, it took less than a minute on hold to speak to a live person. After I explained
>> the situation and let her know that I wanted a replacement, she put me on hold for a few
>> minutes and when she came back she told that the return authorization will be sent via
>> email, the replacement saw should arrive on Friday and UPS will pick up the broken one
>> tomorrow.
>>
>> It's supposed to be a busy weekend for me, but I'll set the saw up as soon as possible and
>> do some more testing. Stay tuned!
>
> OK, so I set the new saw up and tested it.
>
> As far as I can tell, it's fine. No groove as the blade comes to a rest.
> When I cut a piece of 1 x 12 pine, the cut looks the same from start to
> finish. When I cut a piece 1/2 x 12 MDF, I can see a slight difference
> in the cut in the area where the blade is stationary (parked?) as it spins
> to a stop. It is slightly darker and maybe a tad bit smoother.
>
> This could be because that section of the board only sees the teeth "once".
> What I mean by that is that when the "slide" is in motion, the portion
> of the board that extends beyond the front of the parked blade always has
> a point that is contact with the teeth on the back of the blade as it cuts
> though and another point that is contact with - or very close to - the teeth
> on the front of the blade. That doesn't happen to the portion of the board
> nearer the fence. All that portion ever sees is the teeth on back of the
> blade as it cuts through.
>
> Like I said, I don't even see that minuscule difference on the pine, just
> the MDF.

MDF is so fuzzy on the edge that the fibers probably rub the blade all
the way through and shows up differently where you stop the blade.
Sounds like your problem is solved. ;~)


>
> This saw took a little bit more adjustment to get the blade square to the
> fence, but the adjustment is so damn easy it doesn't matter. 1/32" off or
> 1" off, it's still just a matter of loosening 4 screws, rotating the table
> until the blade contacts the square and then tightening down the screws.
> Nothing moves as you tighten the screws, unlike my old Delta where the fence
> was what you had to adjust and which always moved when you tried to tighten
> down the huge bolts behind the fence.
>
> I'll play some more tomorrow and change out the blade a few times just to
> make sure that nothing crops up after some more use.
>

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

>Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter saw on
>Amazon.

>https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R4E9A

>I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it is
>defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and when I described
>the problem, he said to return it and get a new one.

>Here's the issue:

>http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg

That photo makes me wonder if there is end play in the arbor/shaft such that
under power the arbor/shaft and blade move away from the motor and then as
the blade comes to a rest they move back towards the motor.

I wonder this based on prior experience...

"Sonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 9:14:30 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 9:35:42 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> > On 1/30/17 8:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > > Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter
>> > > saw on Amazon.
>> > >
>> > > I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it
>> > > is defective.
>
> Bummer! BTW, the board(s) you cut... quality time test cut(s) or what's
> the new project? That board doesn't look like scrap.

New Zealand Radiata pine? A few years back I built a whole bathroom of
cabinets with it. Home Depot carries it.

Dave in SoTex

On 1/31/2017 7:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:09:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/31/2017 7:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
>>>>> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
>>>> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
>>>>
>>>> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
>>>> causes it to move during the cut.
>>>
>>> I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
>>> my work where I can get good wood.
>>>
>>> I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
>>> clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
>>> possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.
>
> It be the saw.
>
> Here is the 1/2" MDF:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
>
> I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
> down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without the
> hold down clamp, but it's still there.
>
> I also tried to eliminate user error by keeping some left-ward pressure
> on the head unit throughout the entire cut. Theoretically, this should
> have pulled the front of the blade away from the board, eliminating the
> groove. As you can see, it did not.
>
> The call goes into Amazon tomorrow.
>
> Dammit!
>


Well that sucks. I would not give this particular saw a third chance...
Did you by any chance check the serial number or determine when it was
built? Wondering if this was one of the early ones that had issues.

On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

>
> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
>

So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?

I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
causes it to move during the cut.

On 2/5/2017 2:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, February 5, 2017 at 11:08:20 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> On 2/5/2017 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 2/4/17 12:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> I pretty much decided if I ever get a cement board siding job, I'm just
>>>>> going to buy a new POS miter saw and chalk it up as a disposable/rental
>>>>> expense.
>>>>>
>>>>> Harbor Freight has a super cheap CMS that I've heard actually performs
>>>>> decently. I think it would be a good candidate.
>>>>
>>>> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> I have a Harbor Freight 10" for outside and construction jobs. I'll
>>>>> have to reside one side of my house this spring but the Bosch will
>>>>> stay in the basement.
>>>>
>>>> Exactly ... picked up a Ridgid at the Borg, for under $200, Section 179,
>>>> expendable bucks.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I bought one of those cement siding specific blades (Hardie board) for
>>> my Skill saw. Widely spaced carbide tipped teeth. Kinda spendy and the
>>> teeth came off after maybe 20 linear feet of cuts. I went back to a dirt
>>> cheap HF carbide blade, they last a long time and certainly a better
>>> cost/benefit that the expensive blade.
>>>
>>> -BR
>>>
>>
>>
>> I have cut a lot of Hardie with a dedicated Sears circular saw and with
>> a diamond blade, no teeth. It works well but stirs a lot of dust.
>>
>> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Skil-7-in-Wet-or-Dry-Turbo-Diamond-Circular-Saw-Blade/3142677
>
> You want dust? I cut this stone riser with a POS Craftsman circular saw
> using one of those diamond blades.
>
> http://i.imgur.com/k44Xzny.jpg
>
> Luckily, that job killed the saw (my first one). My next, and current saw,
> is a PC 743 left blade.
>
> A veteran framer introduced me to left blade circular saws. As a right
> handed person, I don't have to lean over the saw to see the cut line.

Left blade saws have been around for a while, for left handed people.
FWIW the saw is intended to be used so that you do not see the blade,
seeing the blade typically means more dust in your face.

>
> IOW, I don't have to do this:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/right-blade
>

On 1/31/2017 8:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

>> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.
>
> It be the saw.
>
> Here is the 1/2" MDF:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
>
> I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
> down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without the
> hold down clamp, but it's still there.

That sucks..I don't have a slider but is it common practice to stop the
blade while in the kerf?

On 2/3/2017 1:18 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 1/30/2017 9:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter saw on
>> Amazon.
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R4E9A
>>
>> I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it is
>> defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and when I described
>> the problem, he said to return it and get a new one.
>>
>> Here's the issue:
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
>>
>> If I leave the head unit down until the blade stops, it leaves that mark.
>> Every time, every blade. I tried the Bosch 60 tooth blade that came with
>> the saw, I tried a Dewalt 60 tooth Fine Crosscutting blade and a tried a
>> Diablo 40 tooth General Purpose blade. Every time, every blade.
>>
>> It was not leaving that mark during my initial testing, so something
>> obviously happened since then.
>>
>> The tech suspects that the blade is wobbling. He suggested checking
>> both the
>> inner and outer washers and the face of the head unit behind the inner
>> washer.
>> If I don't see anything obvious (I don't) then it could be the bearings.
>>
>> In any case, I'm still within the 30 day return period for Amazon, so I'm
>> going to call them tomorrow, get a return authorization and request a
>> replacement.
>>
>> Sucks.
>>
>
> Interesting that CPO now sells a reconditioned unit for $599 while
> amazon is 549 for a new one.

I think the recon at CPO is the 12" version, not the 10" version.

On 1/30/2017 8:35 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

> That's too bad. I always wondered about the stability of that saw with
> all those connections and travel in the arm.

Myself. I took a close look at it when I was looking for another SCMS
exclusively for shop/personal use, since my personal, elderly Makita was
necessarily getting a lot of abuse on jobs.

I normally like Bosch tools, but was leery of the engineering just
looking at it, and worried that it might not even stand the test of
occasional off site use/abuse ... knowing that it's hard not to bring a
high performance tool out to a job site when precision work is required.

That old LS1013 has done a couple of Olympic class 1 1/2's off its
mobile stand and is still performing accurately, despite being
used/abused on site, including a few Hardie siding jobs which I wasn't
sure even it would survive if it was named Festool.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:09:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 1/31/2017 7:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> >> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>
> >>>
> >>> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
> >>> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
> >>>
> >>
> >> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
> >> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
> >>
> >> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
> >> causes it to move during the cut.
> >
> > I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
> > my work where I can get good wood.
> >
> > I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
> > clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
> > possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.

I do have some 1/2" MDF out in the shed that might work. I need to make sure that it is at least
as wide as it needs to be to require a sliding cut so that the teeth end up against the end of
the board after the cut.

I don't recall how wide the cutoffs are. I guess I could use a spacer but I don't want add another
variable.

Thanks for the suggestion.

On 2/6/2017 1:55 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sunday, February 5, 2017 at 10:08:20 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>
>> I have cut a lot of Hardie with a dedicated Sears circular saw and
>> with a diamond blade, no teeth. It works well but stirs a lot of
>> dust.
>
> I am the only one here that uses a shear? I can't imagine using a
> saw on cementitious board, regardless of manufacturer. I bought my
> shear about 15 - 18 years ago and it still has the same blades. A
> small learning curve, but no dust, nothing but little curly strips to
> clean up, much faster than a saw, more accurate, much safer (no dust
> mask needed)and very quiet, too.
>
> I saw 1x4 trims, and that's it.
>
> Leon... you have always been a "right tool for the job guy", so if
> another cement board job comes along, I can't recommend a shear
> enough.
>
> Robert
>

I'll certainly look in to that, but geez I hope I never have to do
siding again..

So do they work on the 3/4" stuff too?

On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 9:35:42 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 1/30/17 8:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter
> > saw on Amazon.
> >
> > https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R4E9A
> >
> > I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it
> > is defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and when I
> > described the problem, he said to return it and get a new one.
> >
> > Here's the issue:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
> >
> > If I leave the head unit down until the blade stops, it leaves that
> > mark. Every time, every blade. I tried the Bosch 60 tooth blade that
> > came with the saw, I tried a Dewalt 60 tooth Fine Crosscutting blade
> > and a tried a Diablo 40 tooth General Purpose blade. Every time,
> > every blade.
> >
> > It was not leaving that mark during my initial testing, so something
> > obviously happened since then.
> >
> > The tech suspects that the blade is wobbling. He suggested checking
> > both the inner and outer washers and the face of the head unit behind
> > the inner washer. If I don't see anything obvious (I don't) then it
> > could be the bearings.
> >
> > In any case, I'm still within the 30 day return period for Amazon, so
> > I'm going to call them tomorrow, get a return authorization and
> > request a replacement.
> >
> > Sucks.
> >
>
> That's too bad. I always wondered about the stability of that saw with
> all those connections and travel in the arm.

I also asked the Bosch tech about side to side movement when the head unit
is extended as far as possible towards the user. I did notice some, but
had not measured it. He said that 1/32" is normal/acceptable, even a tiny
bit more. Anything approaching 1/16" is way too much. When I got home I
measured it with my standard 1/32" measuring device: A hotel key card. ;-)
The card was snug in the gap between the blade and the wood, so it's right
at 1/32".


> You picture does point to simple blade wobble, however. The solution
> would be to not stop the saw until you raise the blade. But that could
> cause tear-out on the top and you really shouldn't have to deal with that
> crap with a saw that costs that much.
>
> Amazon has some pretty good customer service so you should be ok with a
> return. Still sucks to have to deal with all that. For a saw that
> costs that much, that is unacceptable.
>

I agree.

On Sunday, February 5, 2017 at 5:11:10 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 2/5/2017 2:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Sunday, February 5, 2017 at 11:08:20 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> >> On 2/5/2017 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
> >>> On 2/4/17 12:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
> >>>> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>>>> I pretty much decided if I ever get a cement board siding job, I'm just
> >>>>> going to buy a new POS miter saw and chalk it up as a disposable/rental
> >>>>> expense.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Harbor Freight has a super cheap CMS that I've heard actually performs
> >>>>> decently. I think it would be a good candidate.
> >>>>
> >>>> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >>>>> I have a Harbor Freight 10" for outside and construction jobs. I'll
> >>>>> have to reside one side of my house this spring but the Bosch will
> >>>>> stay in the basement.
> >>>>
> >>>> Exactly ... picked up a Ridgid at the Borg, for under $200, Section 179,
> >>>> expendable bucks.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> I bought one of those cement siding specific blades (Hardie board) for
> >>> my Skill saw. Widely spaced carbide tipped teeth. Kinda spendy and the
> >>> teeth came off after maybe 20 linear feet of cuts. I went back to a dirt
> >>> cheap HF carbide blade, they last a long time and certainly a better
> >>> cost/benefit that the expensive blade.
> >>>
> >>> -BR
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> I have cut a lot of Hardie with a dedicated Sears circular saw and with
> >> a diamond blade, no teeth. It works well but stirs a lot of dust.
> >>
> >> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Skil-7-in-Wet-or-Dry-Turbo-Diamond-Circular-Saw-Blade/3142677
> >
> > You want dust? I cut this stone riser with a POS Craftsman circular saw
> > using one of those diamond blades.
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/k44Xzny.jpg
> >
> > Luckily, that job killed the saw (my first one). My next, and current saw,
> > is a PC 743 left blade.
> >
> > A veteran framer introduced me to left blade circular saws. As a right
> > handed person, I don't have to lean over the saw to see the cut line.
>
> Left blade saws have been around for a while, for left handed people.
> FWIW the saw is intended to be used so that you do not see the blade,
> seeing the blade typically means more dust in your face.
>

The left blade PC 743 has been around for quite awhile itself. I'm sure I've had it for something
like 20 years. It was a right handed framer that introduced it to me and I love it.

The 743 has a detachable dust chute that can be aimed in any direction to direct the dust
away from the user. A 1 1/4" vacuum hose fits over the chute if desired. I use the vacumm
if I have to use the saw indoors. It's that curved chimney-like doohickey.

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/graphics/pc743.jpg

It's been an on-going debate of sorts as to whether a left blade saw is better for a right handed
user or not. Having used both, I prefer the left blade.

On Saturday, February 4, 2017 at 10:28:58 AM UTC-5, Brewster wrote:
> On 1/31/17 9:01 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> > "DerbyDad03" wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >> Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter saw on
> >> Amazon.
> >
> >> https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R4E9A
> >
> >> I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it is
> >> defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and when I described
> >> the problem, he said to return it and get a new one.
> >
> >> Here's the issue:
> >
> >> http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
> >
> > That photo makes me wonder if there is end play in the arbor/shaft such
> > that under power the arbor/shaft and blade move away from the motor and
> > then as the blade comes to a rest they move back towards the motor.
> >
> > I wonder this based on prior experience...
> >
> >
>
> I had the same issue with a non-sliding 12" CMS. Ended up being the
> motor brake (which turns the motor into a generator/load when the switch
> is released). This (and many other) saws use helical cut gears to
> transfer motor power to the blade. The change in torque direction when
> the motor brake gets applied was causing the blade drive gear to shift
> slightly. I added a thin shim (0.003") to the gear shaft, tightening it
> up in its housing. Problem eliminated!
>
> Basically came down to bad assembly/setup at the factory.
>
> -BR

I'm not sure that your situation applies to mine. The Bosch CM10GD saw is
belt driven. There is no direct geared connection between the motor and the
blade.

I guess it's possible that the gear at the motor could shift, pull the belt,
which would pull the gear at the blade which could move the blade. That's a
lot of loose parts and I sure hope that isn't the case.

My Dewalt non-slider has the gear you mention - i.e. the motor is
directly connect to the blade (more or less)

http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/nBcAAOSwjDZYdT9-/s-l225.jpg

On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 4:06:01 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
> On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 2:10:01 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >
> > Whatever the price, I now have 2 of them! ;-)
> >
> > UPS just delivered the replacement saw but they haven't picked up the old one yet.
>
> So, now you can cut twice as much. Take advantage and double your shop size!?
>
> Sonny

If I put one behind the other I should be able to cut a 24" board.

On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 3:10:01 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 2:18:36 PM UTC-5, woodchucker wrote:
> > On 1/30/2017 9:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > > Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter saw on
> > > Amazon.
> > >
> > > https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R4E9A
> > >
> > > I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it is
> > > defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and when I described
> > > the problem, he said to return it and get a new one.
> > >
> > > Here's the issue:
> > >
> > > http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
> > >
> > > If I leave the head unit down until the blade stops, it leaves that mark.
> > > Every time, every blade. I tried the Bosch 60 tooth blade that came with
> > > the saw, I tried a Dewalt 60 tooth Fine Crosscutting blade and a tried a
> > > Diablo 40 tooth General Purpose blade. Every time, every blade.
> > >
> > > It was not leaving that mark during my initial testing, so something
> > > obviously happened since then.
> > >
> > > The tech suspects that the blade is wobbling. He suggested checking both the
> > > inner and outer washers and the face of the head unit behind the inner washer.
> > > If I don't see anything obvious (I don't) then it could be the bearings.
> > >
> > > In any case, I'm still within the 30 day return period for Amazon, so I'm
> > > going to call them tomorrow, get a return authorization and request a
> > > replacement.
> > >
> > > Sucks.
> > >
> >
> > Interesting that CPO now sells a reconditioned unit for $599 while
> > amazon is 549 for a new one.
> >
> > Same with the 12".. I looked at them 2 years ago, and the cpo units were
> > 100 to 150 less than new... so it's very interesting that the prices
> > have flipped.
> >
> > --
> > Jeff
> >
>
> Whatever the price, I now have 2 of them! ;-)
>
> UPS just delivered the replacement saw but they haven't picked up the old one yet.

UPS can be a pain!

I set it up with Amazon so that UPS would pick up the defective saw. Turns out
UPS only picks up on weekdays during normal business hours and that someone
must be there to hand over the package. They'll *leave* a $600 saw based
on a note on the front door, but they won't take one away.

Since there is never going to be anyone home on weekdays during normal
business hours, I decided to bring the 78 lb package to a nearby UPS Store.
I called them first and told that the only tracking number I had was the
"pick-up" tracking number, having been told by Amazon that the driver would
create the shipping label when he picked up the box.

The nice lady at the UPS store said they could not create a shipping label
from the pick-up tracking number, only one of the 2 "Customer Centers" in
my area could. Guess when the Customer Centers are open. Yep, weekdays,
during normal business hours. (Actually, one of them is open until 8PM, but
still, no Saturday hours.)

So I called Amazon, explained the situation and they emailed me a return
shipping label and cancelled the pick-up request. This is one of the
reasons I bought a mini-van even though the kids moved out years ago. I
tossed (more or less) the huge box in the back of the van, took it over
to the UPS store and sent it on it's way.

On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:09:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 1/31/2017 7:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> >> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>
> >>>
> >>> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
> >>> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
> >>>
> >>
> >> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
> >> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
> >>
> >> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
> >> causes it to move during the cut.
> >
> > I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
> > my work where I can get good wood.
> >
> > I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
> > clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
> > possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.

It be the saw.

Here is the 1/2" MDF:

http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg

I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without the
hold down clamp, but it's still there.

I also tried to eliminate user error by keeping some left-ward pressure
on the head unit throughout the entire cut. Theoretically, this should
have pulled the front of the blade away from the board, eliminating the
groove. As you can see, it did not.

The call goes into Amazon tomorrow.

Dammit!

On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 2:10:01 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> Whatever the price, I now have 2 of them! ;-)
>
> UPS just delivered the replacment saw but they haven't picked up the old one yet.

So, now you can cut twice as much. Take advantage and double your shop size!?

Sonny

On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 2:33:26 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Jan 2017 18:24:42 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter
>
> this the first year for that arm arrangement

Do you know something we don't?

Is the arm arrangement different than what was used when the Bosch Axial
Glide system was introduced in 2010?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I10K3N-UCnY

On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 2:18:36 PM UTC-5, woodchucker wrote:
> On 1/30/2017 9:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter saw on
> > Amazon.
> >
> > https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R4E9A
> >
> > I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it is
> > defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and when I described
> > the problem, he said to return it and get a new one.
> >
> > Here's the issue:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
> >
> > If I leave the head unit down until the blade stops, it leaves that mark.
> > Every time, every blade. I tried the Bosch 60 tooth blade that came with
> > the saw, I tried a Dewalt 60 tooth Fine Crosscutting blade and a tried a
> > Diablo 40 tooth General Purpose blade. Every time, every blade.
> >
> > It was not leaving that mark during my initial testing, so something
> > obviously happened since then.
> >
> > The tech suspects that the blade is wobbling. He suggested checking both the
> > inner and outer washers and the face of the head unit behind the inner washer.
> > If I don't see anything obvious (I don't) then it could be the bearings.
> >
> > In any case, I'm still within the 30 day return period for Amazon, so I'm
> > going to call them tomorrow, get a return authorization and request a
> > replacement.
> >
> > Sucks.
> >
>
> Interesting that CPO now sells a reconditioned unit for $599 while
> amazon is 549 for a new one.
>
> Same with the 12".. I looked at them 2 years ago, and the cpo units were
> 100 to 150 less than new... so it's very interesting that the prices
> have flipped.
>
> --
> Jeff
>

Whatever the price, I now have 2 of them! ;-)

UPS just delivered the replacment saw but they haven't picked up the old one yet.

On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 10:05:08 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 16:31:01 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Is the arm arrangement different than what was used when the Bosch
> > Axial Glide system was introduced in 2010?
>
> if it has been around that long than they should have gotten all the
> issues out by now
>
> first year models of anything can be a risk to buy
>
> maybe they introduced some design change or maybe a new supplier
> etc

Have you considered the possibility that the particular saw I received is simply defective?

I haven't read a single review that mentioned the specific issue that I am experiencing.

I'll report back once I set up the replacement saw, hopefully this weekend.

On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 19:05:03 -0800, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 16:31:01 -0800 (PST)
>DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Is the arm arrangement different than what was used when the Bosch
>> Axial Glide system was introduced in 2010?
>
>if it has been around that long than they should have gotten all the
>issues out by now
>
>first year models of anything can be a risk to buy
>
>maybe they introduced some design change or maybe a new supplier
>etc

Or maybe it's just a defective unit.

On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> I pretty much decided if I ever get a cement board siding job, I'm just
> going to buy a new POS miter saw and chalk it up as a disposable/rental
> expense.
>
> Harbor Freight has a super cheap CMS that I've heard actually performs
> decently. I think it would be a good candidate.

On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I have a Harbor Freight 10" for outside and construction jobs. I'll
> have to reside one side of my house this spring but the Bosch will
> stay in the basement.

Exactly ... picked up a Ridgid at the Borg, for under $200, Section 179,
expendable bucks.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/31/2017 7:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
>>> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
>>>
>>
>> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
>> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
>>
>> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
>> causes it to move during the cut.
>
> I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
> my work where I can get good wood.
>
> I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
> clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
> possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.
>
>
>


A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.

On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 12:57:05 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 1/30/2017 8:35 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> That's too bad. I always wondered about the stability of that saw with
>> all those connections and travel in the arm.
>
>Myself. I took a close look at it when I was looking for another SCMS
>exclusively for shop/personal use, since my personal, elderly Makita was
>necessarily getting a lot of abuse on jobs.
>
>I normally like Bosch tools, but was leery of the engineering just
>looking at it, and worried that it might not even stand the test of
>occasional off site use/abuse ... knowing that it's hard not to bring a
>high performance tool out to a job site when precision work is required.
>
>That old LS1013 has done a couple of Olympic class 1 1/2's off its
>mobile stand and is still performing accurately, despite being
>used/abused on site, including a few Hardie siding jobs which I wasn't
>sure even it would survive if it was named Festool.

I have a Harbor Freight 10" for outside and construction jobs. I'll
have to reside one side of my house this spring but the Bosch will
stay in the basement.

On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 08:04:14 -0500, Larry Kraus <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 1/31/2017 8:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:09:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>> On 1/31/2017 7:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>>> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
>>>>>> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
>>>>> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
>>>>>
>>>>> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
>>>>> causes it to move during the cut.
>>>>
>>>> I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
>>>> my work where I can get good wood.
>>>>
>>>> I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
>>>> clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
>>>> possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.
>>
>> It be the saw.
>>
>> Here is the 1/2" MDF:
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
>>
>> I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
>> down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without the
>> hold down clamp, but it's still there.
>>
>> I also tried to eliminate user error by keeping some left-ward pressure
>> on the head unit throughout the entire cut. Theoretically, this should
>> have pulled the front of the blade away from the board, eliminating the
>> groove. As you can see, it did not.
>>
>> The call goes into Amazon tomorrow.
>>
>> Dammit!
>>
>Blade brake pulling the blade or arbor shaft to the side?

The blade brake is the motor and the motor is offset, so this is a
possibility.

On 1/30/17 8:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter
> saw on Amazon.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R4E9A
>
> I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it
> is defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and when I
> described the problem, he said to return it and get a new one.
>
> Here's the issue:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
>
> If I leave the head unit down until the blade stops, it leaves that
> mark. Every time, every blade. I tried the Bosch 60 tooth blade that
> came with the saw, I tried a Dewalt 60 tooth Fine Crosscutting blade
> and a tried a Diablo 40 tooth General Purpose blade. Every time,
> every blade.
>
> It was not leaving that mark during my initial testing, so something
> obviously happened since then.
>
> The tech suspects that the blade is wobbling. He suggested checking
> both the inner and outer washers and the face of the head unit behind
> the inner washer. If I don't see anything obvious (I don't) then it
> could be the bearings.
>
> In any case, I'm still within the 30 day return period for Amazon, so
> I'm going to call them tomorrow, get a return authorization and
> request a replacement.
>
> Sucks.
>

That's too bad. I always wondered about the stability of that saw with
all those connections and travel in the arm.
You picture does point to simple blade wobble, however. The solution
would be to not stop the saw until you raise the blade. But that could
cause tear-out on the top and you really shouldn't have to deal with that
crap with a saw that costs that much.

Amazon has some pretty good customer service so you should be ok with a
return. Still sucks to have to deal with all that. For a saw that
costs that much, that is unacceptable.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/31/17 9:25 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 1/31/2017 8:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>>> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying
>>> around.
>>
>> It be the saw.
>>
>> Here is the 1/2" MDF:
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
>>
>> I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the
>> hold down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower
>> without the hold down clamp, but it's still there.
>
> That sucks..I don't have a slider but is it common practice to stop
> the blade while in the kerf?
>

Sometimes when you pull the blade back out of a cut, it will pull some
fuzz up on the top of the cut, or chip the top veneer of plywood or
melamine. So, it's a valid technique to stop the blade "in the cut."

It shouldn't do what's happening in his pics... certainly not for 6 bills.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Mon, 30 Jan 2017 18:24:42 -0800 (PST)
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:

> Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter

this the first year for that arm arrangement

On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 16:31:01 -0800 (PST)
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:

> Is the arm arrangement different than what was used when the Bosch
> Axial Glide system was introduced in 2010?

if it has been around that long than they should have gotten all the
issues out by now

first year models of anything can be a risk to buy

maybe they introduced some design change or maybe a new supplier
etc

On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 19:18:32 -0800 (PST)
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:

> Have you considered the possibility that the particular saw I
> received is simply defective?

anything is possible but that is always the case

my curiosity is toward manufacturing defects

with the advent of cad and cam it is more interesting as the processes
have much better visibility

possible that the unit had rough handling after assembly

maybe during packing

although knew a guy that worked at a bosch plant

he avoided buying bosch products after that experience

so stuff happens but perceptions are carefully managed and prices
are priced accordingly

On 1/31/17 9:01 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> Some of you may recall that I recently bought a Bosch CM10GD miter saw on
>> Amazon.
>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CM10GD-10-Inch-Bevel-15-Amp/dp/B00G5R4E9A
>
>> I spent some quality time with it this weekend and it looks like it is
>> defective. I called Bosch tech support this morning and when I described
>> the problem, he said to return it and get a new one.
>
>> Here's the issue:
>
>> http://i.imgur.com/sGJYoVf.jpg
>
> That photo makes me wonder if there is end play in the arbor/shaft such
> that under power the arbor/shaft and blade move away from the motor and
> then as the blade comes to a rest they move back towards the motor.
>
> I wonder this based on prior experience...
>
>

I had the same issue with a non-sliding 12" CMS. Ended up being the
motor brake (which turns the motor into a generator/load when the switch
is released). This (and many other) saws use helical cut gears to
transfer motor power to the blade. The change in torque direction when
the motor brake gets applied was causing the blade drive gear to shift
slightly. I added a thin shim (0.003") to the gear shaft, tightening it
up in its housing. Problem eliminated!

Basically came down to bad assembly/setup at the factory.

-BR

On 2/4/17 12:57 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/30/2017 8:35 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> That's too bad. I always wondered about the stability of that saw
>> with all those connections and travel in the arm.
>
> Myself. I took a close look at it when I was looking for another
> SCMS exclusively for shop/personal use, since my personal, elderly
> Makita was necessarily getting a lot of abuse on jobs.
>
> I normally like Bosch tools, but was leery of the engineering just
> looking at it, and worried that it might not even stand the test of
> occasional off site use/abuse ... knowing that it's hard not to bring
> a high performance tool out to a job site when precision work is
> required.
>
> That old LS1013 has done a couple of Olympic class 1 1/2's off its
> mobile stand and is still performing accurately, despite being
> used/abused on site, including a few Hardie siding jobs which I
> wasn't sure even it would survive if it was named Festool.
>

I pretty much decided if I ever get a cement board siding job, I'm just
going to buy a new POS miter saw and chalk it up as a disposable/rental
expense.

Harbor Freight has a super cheap CMS that I've heard actually performs
decently. I think it would be a good candidate.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/4/17 8:52 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "Brewster" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

>
> I was kind of surprised that no one else had detected what I had...
> until now.


I never looked 8^)

I don't use my saw for finish work, just to chop down the 16 footers.

>
> I wonder what the end play spec is during assembly? Were there any end
> play shims in evidence when you installed your shim?


No shims to speak of, just a thrust washer, which may gave been
"selective", but appears to not have been.

>
> John

On 2/4/17 9:15 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

>> I had the same issue with a non-sliding 12" CMS. Ended up being the
>> motor brake (which turns the motor into a generator/load when the switch
>> is released). This (and many other) saws use helical cut gears to
>> transfer motor power to the blade. The change in torque direction when
>> the motor brake gets applied was causing the blade drive gear to shift
>> slightly. I added a thin shim (0.003") to the gear shaft, tightening it
>> up in its housing. Problem eliminated!
>>
>> Basically came down to bad assembly/setup at the factory.
>>
>> -BR
>
> I'm not sure that your situation applies to mine. The Bosch CM10GD saw is
> belt driven. There is no direct geared connection between the motor and the
> blade.
>
> I guess it's possible that the gear at the motor could shift, pull the belt,
> which would pull the gear at the blade which could move the blade. That's a
> lot of loose parts and I sure hope that isn't the case.
>
> My Dewalt non-slider has the gear you mention - i.e. the motor is
> directly connect to the blade (more or less)
>
> http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/nBcAAOSwjDZYdT9-/s-l225.jpg
>


Exactly!

-BR

On 2/4/17 12:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> I pretty much decided if I ever get a cement board siding job, I'm just
>> going to buy a new POS miter saw and chalk it up as a disposable/rental
>> expense.
>>
>> Harbor Freight has a super cheap CMS that I've heard actually performs
>> decently. I think it would be a good candidate.
>
> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> I have a Harbor Freight 10" for outside and construction jobs. I'll
>> have to reside one side of my house this spring but the Bosch will
>> stay in the basement.
>
> Exactly ... picked up a Ridgid at the Borg, for under $200, Section 179,
> expendable bucks.
>

I bought one of those cement siding specific blades (Hardie board) for
my Skill saw. Widely spaced carbide tipped teeth. Kinda spendy and the
teeth came off after maybe 20 linear feet of cuts. I went back to a dirt
cheap HF carbide blade, they last a long time and certainly a better
cost/benefit that the expensive blade.

-BR

On 2/5/17 1:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

>
> IOW, I don't have to do this:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/right-blade
>

(ball cap on backwards, bib overalls, "Deliverance" music playing in the
background...)


You sure have a purdy mouth.....


-BR

On 2/5/2017 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 2/4/17 12:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> I pretty much decided if I ever get a cement board siding job, I'm just
>>> going to buy a new POS miter saw and chalk it up as a disposable/rental
>>> expense.
>>>
>>> Harbor Freight has a super cheap CMS that I've heard actually performs
>>> decently. I think it would be a good candidate.
>>
>> On 2/4/2017 1:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> I have a Harbor Freight 10" for outside and construction jobs. I'll
>>> have to reside one side of my house this spring but the Bosch will
>>> stay in the basement.
>>
>> Exactly ... picked up a Ridgid at the Borg, for under $200, Section 179,
>> expendable bucks.
>>
>
> I bought one of those cement siding specific blades (Hardie board) for
> my Skill saw. Widely spaced carbide tipped teeth. Kinda spendy and the
> teeth came off after maybe 20 linear feet of cuts. I went back to a dirt
> cheap HF carbide blade, they last a long time and certainly a better
> cost/benefit that the expensive blade.
>
> -BR
>


I have cut a lot of Hardie with a dedicated Sears circular saw and with
a diamond blade, no teeth. It works well but stirs a lot of dust.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Skil-7-in-Wet-or-Dry-Turbo-Diamond-Circular-Saw-Blade/3142677?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-PowerToolAccessories-_-3142677:Skil&CAWELAID=&kpid=3142677&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1131&k_clickID=c63e83c4-2aad-4522-bd09-a3494cf06209

On 1/31/2017 8:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 10:09:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/31/2017 7:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2017 at 6:05:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>> On 1/30/2017 11:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Well, considering that the board was bought at Home Depot and required the hold-down
>>>>> clamp to flatten it against the saw's table, it is definitely scrap.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So is it the saw or the board that is the problem? Could the board be
>>>> moving once the blade stops? Have you tried a different board?
>>>>
>>>> I wonder of the force of the rotating blade is causing some stress that
>>>> causes it to move during the cut.
>>>
>>> I'm going to stop and pick up a perfectly flat 1x12 later today. There's a lumber yard near
>>> my work where I can get good wood.
>>>
>>> I don't think the board is moving because it is clamped to the table to keep it flat. It's the
>>> clamped side that's showing the groove. I'll test a few more things and removing the
>>> possibility of the board causing the problem is my next step.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> A piece of MDF or plywood should work if you have a scrap laying around.
>
> It be the saw.
>
> Here is the 1/2" MDF:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/Sjicndm.jpg
>
> I tried 2 different blades and I tried both with and without the hold
> down clamp. The groove might be ever so slightly shallower without the
> hold down clamp, but it's still there.
>
> I also tried to eliminate user error by keeping some left-ward pressure
> on the head unit throughout the entire cut. Theoretically, this should
> have pulled the front of the blade away from the board, eliminating the
> groove. As you can see, it did not.
>
> The call goes into Amazon tomorrow.
>
> Dammit!
>
Blade brake pulling the blade or arbor shaft to the side?

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

>I should add that the above comments are not just for sliding miters. The
>practice should be used with all miter saws.

...and use negative rake blades.