Presealer for cherry?

On Jul 26, 6:41=A0pm, Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry
> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
> for the cherry? =A0Thanks.

What's the project? What's the topcoat? Flexner recommends
orange shellac for cherry or walnut for its warm tone. You'll
need dewaxed orange if you're topcoating, HD doesn't carry,
Woodcraft is overpriced; order off the net.

If you're *topcoating* with shellac (*nothing* looks better on
cherry),
the waxy orange Zinnser stuff from HD is fine.

I've always understood to apply BLO or tung oil, to enhance the grain,
then topcoat with clear finish. Thin the BLO or tung oil with paint
thinner or naptha, to help with penetration. The oil will prevent
blotching... or certainly reduce it significantly.

Sonny

On Jul 27, 9:56=A0am, Larry Jaques <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 18:41:36 -0400, Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry
> >and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
> >for the cherry? =A0Thanks.
>
> Wipe some Waterlox on it. That will seal it. Some more coats will
> finish it beautifully, too. Nothing else is necessary. 0000 or 400
> grit WOD between coats keeps it baby's butt smooth.
>
> OHMIGOD! =A0You're not going to STAIN it, are you?
> Get thee away from me, Satan!
>
> P.S: Oh, crap. I just realized who you were. Back in my twit filter.
> That's a good lad. =A0(Toy, it's filter time!)
>
> --
> Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air=85
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

Errrmm... I don't have a problem with Dave. If you do, by all means,
filter the twit...(sorry Dave..had to LOL)

Tom B wrote:
> "Dave" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry
> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
> for the cherry? Thanks.
>
> I use a 1/2 pound coat or two of shellac.

Glidden latex paint - over the entire surface. Also serves as a very nice
finish coat. Saves labor...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 7/27/2011 8:22 AM, Swingman wrote:

> I have also gotten beautiful finishes with cherry by using a Sam Maloof
> finish, which is an oil/poly base, followed by coats of oil/poly/wax base:

Meant to add that, with the Maloof finish, a sealer is not necessary at
all, and probably best to not use one with that particular method.

Both methods take the same application technique and take about the same
time.

With the oil/poly, some future maintenance may be necessary, IOW, repeat
final oil/poly/wax coat using that old saw" "Once a week for a month,
once a month for a year, once a year thereafter." ... although I don't
usually bother unless it is really dry and in direct sunlight.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 09:24:32 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 7/27/2011 9:08 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 08:48:20 -0500, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>> With the oil/poly, some future maintenance may be necessary, IOW, repeat
>>> final oil/poly/wax coat using that old saw" "Once a week for a month,
>>> once a month for a year, once a year thereafter." ... although I don't
>>> usually bother unless it is really dry and in direct sunlight.
>>
>> That old saw is for BLO alone, not that farkin' poly chit.
>> When're you going to try a _real_ finish, Swingy?
>> http://www.waterlox.com/
>
>Although I've used Waterlox in the past, C-Less, anyone who takes a look
>at the cherry hope chest today would not venture to add that Waterlox
>would have done a better job, trust me on that. :)
>
>As for the "old saw" meant for BLO only, it works for the oil/poly/wax
>coat as well, guaranteed.

Do you de-wax first, each time? Or is there a solvent in the mix?

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On 7/27/2011 4:27 AM, Dave wrote:
> On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 16:32:22 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>> Blotch? You mean when st..sta..stai...*shudder* STAINING?
>
> Actually, I was under the impression that even a clear finish could
> soak into some areas a little more than others and leave a darker
> haze. As you can see, while I consider my woodworking skills to be
> adequate, my dislike and lack of knowledge when it comes to finishing,
> occasionally leaves the final result something to be desired.
>
> Besides, like Mike said, I may want to paint my cherry and I want a
> smooth paint coat without any streaking.<g>


A web site is worth a thousand words. DJM is known for his natural
finishes on woods like cherry and he uses both a sealer and top coat:

http://www.djmarks.com/stories/faq/what_is_the_mix_ratio_for_the_linseed_oil_tung_oil_and_urethane_46687.asp

I have also gotten beautiful finishes with cherry by using a Sam Maloof
finish, which is an oil/poly base, followed by coats of oil/poly/wax base:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/HC24.jpg

This hope chest, done with Sam Maloof finish, is even more beautiful
today, with that rich, natural cherry color that only comes for exposure
to sunlight.

The Sam Maloof product can be had from Rockler or WoodCraft ... it is my
first choice for cherry, although either method works a treat.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Jul 26, 6:41=A0pm, Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry
> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
> for the cherry? =A0Thanks.

Don't need it.

"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Jul 26, 7:29 pm, Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 16:17:59 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
>> >> for the cherry? Thanks.
>>
>> >Don't need it.
>>
>> Hmmm. The text I'm reading suggests that cherry has a tendency to
>> blotch and a presealer can help to reduce or eliminate that tendency.
>> Guess I have some more reading to do.
>
> Blotch? You mean when st..sta..stai...*shudder* STAINING?

Come on Robatoy. He may not be actually staining it. Give him a little
credit. He may be PAINTING it. That would cover up that ugly cherry color.

"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry
> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
> for the cherry? Thanks.

I'm not sure exactly what you want or why you want to use it on cherry
but a 1 pound cut of dewaxed shellac will serve as a nice washcoat. You can
make something close enough quickly by adding one volume of alcohol to one
volume of Seal-Coat. This wash coat will minimize blotching or uneven
finish aborption.

Good Luck.

"Dave" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry
and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
for the cherry? Thanks.

I use a 1/2 pound coat or two of shellac.

"Swingman" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

On 7/29/2011 11:21 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Tom B wrote:
>> "Dave" wrote in message
<snip>

ROTFLMAO!!!


Ditto!

On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 09:54:30 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>Errrmm... I don't have a problem with Dave. If you do, by all means,
>filter the twit...(sorry Dave..had to LOL)

Hell, doesn't bother me. If someone wants to filter me then who am I
to complain? The people here whose knowledge and skills that I respect
don't appear to have any problem with me and that's all that counts as
far as I'm concerned.

On Jul 26, 5:41=A0pm, Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry
> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
> for the cherry? =A0Thanks.

Looks like you are getting a lot of help. ;o}

What I am guessing is you want to end up with an unstained and very
smooth finish. In that case an intermediate layer of a sanding
sealer, available in most hardware or home stores, might be in order.
Actually a good, thorough sanding followed with finish, also sanded or
rubbed might work as well. Oils will also provide a good deal of
seal. Boiled Linseed oil really pops grain but is not durable. You
will have to top with another finish.

RonB

I'm still having problems accessing up-to-date posts. I have no idea
if my replies are posting, as no recent posts have shown up, for me.
Would someone email me a new link, cedarsonny at aol dot com , to see
if that might help me.

I think Flexner, Marks and other references are correct. Seems the
basic idea is with the use of an oil, in some capacity, initially.
Here's another link that may help: http://www.finishwiz.com/cherry04.htm

Sonny

On Jul 27, 10:24=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 7/27/2011 9:08 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>
> > On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 08:48:20 -0500, Swingman<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> With the oil/poly, some future maintenance may be necessary, IOW, repe=
at
> >> final oil/poly/wax coat using that old saw" "Once a week for a month,
> >> once a month for a year, once a year thereafter." ... although I don't
> >> usually bother unless it is really dry and in direct sunlight.
>
> > That old saw is for BLO alone, not that farkin' poly chit.
> > When're you going to try a _real_ finish, Swingy?
> >http://www.waterlox.com/
>
> Although I've used Waterlox in the past, C-Less, anyone who takes a look
> at the cherry hope chest today would not venture to add that Waterlox
> would have done a better job, trust me on that. =A0:)
>
> As for the "old saw" meant for BLO only, it works for the oil/poly/wax
> coat as well, guaranteed.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)

That'd be guwahrahnteed. n'est pas?

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 16:17:59 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:

>> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
>> for the cherry?  Thanks.
>
>Don't need it.

Hmmm. The text I'm reading suggests that cherry has a tendency to
blotch and a presealer can help to reduce or eliminate that tendency.
Guess I have some more reading to do.

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 16:32:22 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>Blotch? You mean when st..sta..stai...*shudder* STAINING?

Actually, I was under the impression that even a clear finish could
soak into some areas a little more than others and leave a darker
haze. As you can see, while I consider my woodworking skills to be
adequate, my dislike and lack of knowledge when it comes to finishing,
occasionally leaves the final result something to be desired.

Besides, like Mike said, I may want to paint my cherry and I want a
smooth paint coat without any streaking. <g>

On 7/27/2011 9:08 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 08:48:20 -0500, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:


>> With the oil/poly, some future maintenance may be necessary, IOW, repeat
>> final oil/poly/wax coat using that old saw" "Once a week for a month,
>> once a month for a year, once a year thereafter." ... although I don't
>> usually bother unless it is really dry and in direct sunlight.
>
> That old saw is for BLO alone, not that farkin' poly chit.
> When're you going to try a _real_ finish, Swingy?
> http://www.waterlox.com/

Although I've used Waterlox in the past, C-Less, anyone who takes a look
at the cherry hope chest today would not venture to add that Waterlox
would have done a better job, trust me on that. :)

As for the "old saw" meant for BLO only, it works for the oil/poly/wax
coat as well, guaranteed.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Another new name for George Watson?

How many hundred has it been so far, here? I have to stop exposing your
phoney ass.

----------------

"Dave" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Hell, doesn't bother me. If someone wants to filter me then who am I
to complain? The people here whose knowledge and skills that I respect
don't appear to have any problem with me and that's all that counts as
far as I'm concerned.

On 7/27/2011 11:45 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 09:24:32 -0500, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:

>>>> With the oil/poly, some future maintenance may be necessary, IOW, repeat
>>>> final oil/poly/wax coat using that old saw" "Once a week for a month,
>>>> once a month for a year, once a year thereafter." ... although I don't
>>>> usually bother unless it is really dry and in direct sunlight.
>>>
>>> That old saw is for BLO alone, not that farkin' poly chit.
>>> When're you going to try a _real_ finish, Swingy?
>>> http://www.waterlox.com/
>>
>> Although I've used Waterlox in the past, C-Less, anyone who takes a look
>> at the cherry hope chest today would not venture to add that Waterlox
>> would have done a better job, trust me on that. :)
>>
>> As for the "old saw" meant for BLO only, it works for the oil/poly/wax
>> coat as well, guaranteed.
>
> Do you de-wax first, each time? Or is there a solvent in the mix?

Sorry, I misspoke (but I'm not going to resign my seat in deficit
financing practice) ... the final, and any subsequent, coats are an
oil/wax, and forego the poly.

And I knew that ... go figure.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 7/29/2011 11:21 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Tom B wrote:
>> "Dave" wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry
>> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
>> for the cherry? Thanks.
>>
>> I use a 1/2 pound coat or two of shellac.
>
> Glidden latex paint - over the entire surface. Also serves as a very nice
> finish coat. Saves labor...

ROTFLMAO!!!


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 08:48:20 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 7/27/2011 8:22 AM, Swingman wrote:
>
>> I have also gotten beautiful finishes with cherry by using a Sam Maloof
>> finish, which is an oil/poly base, followed by coats of oil/poly/wax base:
>
>Meant to add that, with the Maloof finish, a sealer is not necessary at
>all, and probably best to not use one with that particular method.
>
>Both methods take the same application technique and take about the same
>time.
>
>With the oil/poly, some future maintenance may be necessary, IOW, repeat
>final oil/poly/wax coat using that old saw" "Once a week for a month,
>once a month for a year, once a year thereafter." ... although I don't
>usually bother unless it is really dry and in direct sunlight.

That old saw is for BLO alone, not that farkin' poly chit.
When're you going to try a _real_ finish, Swingy?
http://www.waterlox.com/

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On Jul 26, 7:29=A0pm, Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 16:17:59 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
> >> for the cherry? Thanks.
>
> >Don't need it.
>
> Hmmm. =A0The text I'm reading suggests that cherry has a tendency to
> blotch and a presealer can help to reduce or eliminate that tendency.
> Guess I have some more reading to do.

Blotch? You mean when st..sta..stai...*shudder* STAINING?

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 18:41:36 -0400, Dave <[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi, I'm teaching myself the proper conditioning procedures for cherry
>and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
>for the cherry? Thanks.

Wipe some Waterlox on it. That will seal it. Some more coats will
finish it beautifully, too. Nothing else is necessary. 0000 or 400
grit WOD between coats keeps it baby's butt smooth.


OHMIGOD! You're not going to STAIN it, are you?
Get thee away from me, Satan!

P.S: Oh, crap. I just realized who you were. Back in my twit filter.
That's a good lad. (Toy, it's filter time!)

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air…
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

On Jul 27, 8:48=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 7/27/2011 8:22 AM, Swingman wrote:
>
> > I have also gotten beautiful finishes with cherry by using a Sam Maloof
> > finish, which is an oil/poly base, followed by coats of oil/poly/wax ba=
se:
>
> Meant to add that, with the Maloof finish, a sealer is not necessary at
> all, and probably best to not use one with that particular method.
>
> Both methods take the same application technique and take about the same
> time.
>
> With the oil/poly, some future maintenance may be necessary, IOW, repeat
> final oil/poly/wax coat using that old saw" "Once a week for a month,
> once a month for a year, once a year thereafter." ... although I don't
> usually bother unless it is really dry and in direct sunlight.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)

The Maloof finish is very nice. I might add that there are locally
available, but less effective alternatives. There are a variety of
wiping varnishes available from a lot of home and hardware stores.
They are very easy to apply and with some light rubbing, provide a
nice finish.

While many here do not support Min Wax products, I have had good luck
with their wipe-on-poly. I have used it on a lot of hardwood rocking
horse projects and usually top with a coat of wax. The horses take
some use and abuse but a light coat of wax, ever year or two, brings
the appearance back.

RonB

Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 09:54:30 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>>Errrmm... I don't have a problem with Dave. If you do, by all means,
>>filter the twit...(sorry Dave..had to LOL)
>
>Hell, doesn't bother me. If someone wants to filter me then who am I
>to complain? The people here whose knowledge and skills that I respect
>don't appear to have any problem with me and that's all that counts as
>far as I'm concerned.

The fact you are being 'haunted' by IT says
volumes for *your* credibility. You are annoying
the edjut :-)
Only yesterday - in Usenet terms - IT thought you
well worth some "realigning".
Message-ID: <[email protected]>

You worked out Josepi/'mII'/Eric/mHo is petrified
I may just publish his RL data.. heh
george

On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 22:47:32 -0400, "m II" <[email protected]> wrote:
>How many hundred has it been so far, here? I have to stop exposing your
>phoney ass.

The *only* thing you expose with every message is your remarkable lack
of intelligence. It's truly a wonder you found out how to turn a
computer on.

On 7/26/11 6:32 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Jul 26, 7:29 pm, Dave<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 16:17:59 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> and I need to preseal it. Can anyone recommend a brand of presealer
>>>> for the cherry? Thanks.
>>
>>> Don't need it.
>>
>> Hmmm. The text I'm reading suggests that cherry has a tendency to
>> blotch and a presealer can help to reduce or eliminate that tendency.
>> Guess I have some more reading to do.
>
> Blotch? You mean when st..sta..stai...*shudder* STAINING?

If you're staining, save yourself a lot of money and just use any clear
hardwood, like beech, birch or maple.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 08:22:00 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>http://www.djmarks.com/stories/faq/what_is_the_mix_ratio_for_the_linseed_oil_tung_oil_and_urethane_46687.asp
>http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/HC24.jpg

Thanks Karl. This is the type of information I was looking for.

Unless you have some really nice heart wood, most cherry
requires some "extra" work to make it look uniform.

To have that spiffy cherry finish everybody raves about,
start with poplar and work your way up....

After 10-15 rounds, you should have that famous cherry finish.



> Blotch? You mean when st..sta..stai...*shudder* STAINING?