I hate it when people write, "what do you think of the XXX", when if they
had just done a Google they would know.
Well, I did, and came up with nothing.
I want to buy a router to leave in my router table. The Milwaukee looks
like it should be really easy to adjust, and at $170 for a 13a variable
speed, it seems like a hell of a buy.
So, what is wrong with it? If it was as good as it seems, it would be way
more popular.
I guess my other choice is the Porter Cable 690LRVS, but it is less powerful
(?), more difficult to adjust (?), and only $25 less.
Comments? (other than "stop writing dumb posts")
Hi Wade,
I have a Triton TRA001 that I use in both my horizontal and vertical home
made router tables. In the fertile table I use this in conjunction with an
Incra Ultra 16" fence.
Mounting is easy with the two 1/4 " bolts that can be placed through the
holes in the base plate then through the table.
It is designed for above the table bit changes, has an optional rack winder
or plunge height adjustment (removable plunge spring) as well as micro
winder for precise depth adjustment. Variable speed 8,000 - 20,000 rpm,
soft start. Height lock and shaft lock with power on light and safety cover
over start switch, as well as over ride when shaft is locked. Power is 2400
watts or 3.2 HP, it does all I chores with out a whimper. see at
www.triton.net.au
Have a look and tell me what you think.
Lew
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How does it work? Do you have to unclamp something before turning the
> adjustment, or is it stable enough to hold it's setting without a lock?
Can
> you set the height from below (with that knob sticking out on top
> presumably) easily also? I presume you have to drill a hole in the table
> for the adjustment tool, and am not sure I want to do that right away.
>
> I just ruined a 6' piece of walnut because the adjustment "lock" on my
> crappy router vibrated open during a cut and threw everything off; so I
want
> to be sure on the new one!
>
> Thanks.
>
> "Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have the Milwaukee 5625-20 in my table and love it. You're right
> > about the ease of adjustability! A router lift really wouldn't
> > improve this setup. You can raise/lower from above the table, and
> > dial in 1/64th increments trivially from below.
> >
> > The only thing I'd say about the 5616 is that it might be underpowered
> > for a table. If you ever want to do 3.5" raised hardwood panels, for
> > example, you're going to want more juice. I was actually considering
> > the 5616 as a second router for handheld use...
> >
> > FWIW.
> >
> > Brian.
> >
> >
> > "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
> > > I hate it when people write, "what do you think of the XXX", when if
> they
> > > had just done a Google they would know.
> > >
> > > Well, I did, and came up with nothing.
> > > I want to buy a router to leave in my router table. The Milwaukee
looks
> > > like it should be really easy to adjust, and at $170 for a 13a
variable
> > > speed, it seems like a hell of a buy.
> > >
> > > So, what is wrong with it? If it was as good as it seems, it would be
> way
> > > more popular.
> > >
> > > I guess my other choice is the Porter Cable 690LRVS, but it is less
> powerful
> > > (?), more difficult to adjust (?), and only $25 less.
> > >
> > > Comments? (other than "stop writing dumb posts")
>
>
How does it work? Do you have to unclamp something before turning the
adjustment, or is it stable enough to hold it's setting without a lock? Can
you set the height from below (with that knob sticking out on top
presumably) easily also? I presume you have to drill a hole in the table
for the adjustment tool, and am not sure I want to do that right away.
I just ruined a 6' piece of walnut because the adjustment "lock" on my
crappy router vibrated open during a cut and threw everything off; so I want
to be sure on the new one!
Thanks.
"Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have the Milwaukee 5625-20 in my table and love it. You're right
> about the ease of adjustability! A router lift really wouldn't
> improve this setup. You can raise/lower from above the table, and
> dial in 1/64th increments trivially from below.
>
> The only thing I'd say about the 5616 is that it might be underpowered
> for a table. If you ever want to do 3.5" raised hardwood panels, for
> example, you're going to want more juice. I was actually considering
> the 5616 as a second router for handheld use...
>
> FWIW.
>
> Brian.
>
>
> "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > I hate it when people write, "what do you think of the XXX", when if
they
> > had just done a Google they would know.
> >
> > Well, I did, and came up with nothing.
> > I want to buy a router to leave in my router table. The Milwaukee looks
> > like it should be really easy to adjust, and at $170 for a 13a variable
> > speed, it seems like a hell of a buy.
> >
> > So, what is wrong with it? If it was as good as it seems, it would be
way
> > more popular.
> >
> > I guess my other choice is the Porter Cable 690LRVS, but it is less
powerful
> > (?), more difficult to adjust (?), and only $25 less.
> >
> > Comments? (other than "stop writing dumb posts")
Leon wrote:
> Those are OK, until you need to do a raised panel that does not have
> straight lines. Those type bits do not do curves.
They would do the same job as a horizontal bit...in a horizontal
router table.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Usually a router hung under a table is sooner or later subject to bigger
> tasks such as raised panels. Most raised panels are cut with large
diameter
> bits that ideally require a larger router than either that you have
> mentioned. If it were me looking to for a router for this type
application,
> I would look a step up from either of those models something in the 15 amp
> range. I kinda like the look of the bigger Milwaukee myself.
>
I know what you are saying is true, but even these will strain my budget. I
recently upgraded from a Skil 5a to a Craftsman 6.5a I bought at a garage
sale for $4; so 13a, or even 10a, will be huge.
It looks like a great router. Sadly, it is about twice my budget.
"Lew Hylton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Wade,
> I have a Triton TRA001 that I use in both my horizontal and vertical home
> made router tables. In the fertile table I use this in conjunction with an
> Incra Ultra 16" fence.
> Mounting is easy with the two 1/4 " bolts that can be placed through the
> holes in the base plate then through the table.
> It is designed for above the table bit changes, has an optional rack
winder
> or plunge height adjustment (removable plunge spring) as well as micro
> winder for precise depth adjustment. Variable speed 8,000 - 20,000 rpm,
> soft start. Height lock and shaft lock with power on light and safety
cover
> over start switch, as well as over ride when shaft is locked. Power is
2400
> watts or 3.2 HP, it does all I chores with out a whimper. see at
> www.triton.net.au
> Have a look and tell me what you think.
>
> Lew
>
> "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > How does it work? Do you have to unclamp something before turning the
> > adjustment, or is it stable enough to hold it's setting without a lock?
> Can
> > you set the height from below (with that knob sticking out on top
> > presumably) easily also? I presume you have to drill a hole in the
table
> > for the adjustment tool, and am not sure I want to do that right away.
> >
> > I just ruined a 6' piece of walnut because the adjustment "lock" on my
> > crappy router vibrated open during a cut and threw everything off; so I
> want
> > to be sure on the new one!
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > "Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I have the Milwaukee 5625-20 in my table and love it. You're right
> > > about the ease of adjustability! A router lift really wouldn't
> > > improve this setup. You can raise/lower from above the table, and
> > > dial in 1/64th increments trivially from below.
> > >
> > > The only thing I'd say about the 5616 is that it might be underpowered
> > > for a table. If you ever want to do 3.5" raised hardwood panels, for
> > > example, you're going to want more juice. I was actually considering
> > > the 5616 as a second router for handheld use...
> > >
> > > FWIW.
> > >
> > > Brian.
> > >
> > >
> > > "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:<[email protected]>...
> > > > I hate it when people write, "what do you think of the XXX", when if
> > they
> > > > had just done a Google they would know.
> > > >
> > > > Well, I did, and came up with nothing.
> > > > I want to buy a router to leave in my router table. The Milwaukee
> looks
> > > > like it should be really easy to adjust, and at $170 for a 13a
> variable
> > > > speed, it seems like a hell of a buy.
> > > >
> > > > So, what is wrong with it? If it was as good as it seems, it would
be
> > way
> > > > more popular.
> > > >
> > > > I guess my other choice is the Porter Cable 690LRVS, but it is less
> > powerful
> > > > (?), more difficult to adjust (?), and only $25 less.
> > > >
> > > > Comments? (other than "stop writing dumb posts")
> >
> >
>
>
Usually a router hung under a table is sooner or later subject to bigger
tasks such as raised panels. Most raised panels are cut with large diameter
bits that ideally require a larger router than either that you have
mentioned. If it were me looking to for a router for this type application,
I would look a step up from either of those models something in the 15 amp
range. I kinda like the look of the bigger Milwaukee myself.
I have the Milwaukee 5625-20 in my table and love it. You're right
about the ease of adjustability! A router lift really wouldn't
improve this setup. You can raise/lower from above the table, and
dial in 1/64th increments trivially from below.
The only thing I'd say about the 5616 is that it might be underpowered
for a table. If you ever want to do 3.5" raised hardwood panels, for
example, you're going to want more juice. I was actually considering
the 5616 as a second router for handheld use...
FWIW.
Brian.
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I hate it when people write, "what do you think of the XXX", when if they
> had just done a Google they would know.
>
> Well, I did, and came up with nothing.
> I want to buy a router to leave in my router table. The Milwaukee looks
> like it should be really easy to adjust, and at $170 for a 13a variable
> speed, it seems like a hell of a buy.
>
> So, what is wrong with it? If it was as good as it seems, it would be way
> more popular.
>
> I guess my other choice is the Porter Cable 690LRVS, but it is less powerful
> (?), more difficult to adjust (?), and only $25 less.
>
> Comments? (other than "stop writing dumb posts")
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> How does it work? Do you have to unclamp something before turning the
> adjustment, or is it stable enough to hold it's setting without a lock? Can
> you set the height from below (with that knob sticking out on top
> presumably) easily also? I presume you have to drill a hole in the table
> for the adjustment tool, and am not sure I want to do that right away.
>
> I just ruined a 6' piece of walnut because the adjustment "lock" on my
> crappy router vibrated open during a cut and threw everything off; so I want
> to be sure on the new one!
>
> Thanks.
Yes, there is a clamp that locks it down securely. I can reach below
and find it without looking, but have never tried routing with it
unlocked and have no desire to try it. The height can be set from
below with the knob, and I drilled a hole in my router plate so I can
adjust from above also. To be honest, though, I'm not so sure its
anymore convenient from above than from below. But I do like to
adjust from above for the initial test cut setting, though, because I
can eyeball the bit height from above while raising/lowering it.
The ease of adjustment as compared to the Porter Cable 7518 (the other
legit contender for a table router IMO) is night and day, though. The
clamping mechanism is easier/quicker. The non-helical base is much
nicer (no cord twisting/tangling). And small incremental adjustments
are more precise. I am taking an "Advanced" shop class at a local Jr.
college, and they have the Porter Cables on two tables. I always wish
I had my Milwaukee there everytime I go to use the tables at school.
:-)
Brian.
Brian wrote:
> The ease of adjustment as compared to the Porter Cable 7518 (the other
> legit contender for a table router IMO) is night and day, though. The
ahemm. What about the Triton? What makes it non-legit?
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
"Chris Merrill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> As an alternative...there are vertical panel-raising bits that
> do not require as much HP. As a bonus, with at least a few mfrs
> the vertical bits cost less, too. They seem much safer.
Those are OK, until you need to do a raised panel that does not have
straight lines. Those type bits do not do curves.
Brian wrote:
> The only thing I'd say about the 5616 is that it might be underpowered
> for a table. If you ever want to do 3.5" raised hardwood panels, for
> example, you're going to want more juice.
As an alternative...there are vertical panel-raising bits that
do not require as much HP. As a bonus, with at least a few mfrs
the vertical bits cost less, too. They seem much safer.
> I was actually considering
> the 5616 as a second router for handheld use...
I've been considering the smaller one (5615?) for handheld use -
mostly round-overs, bevels, and other edge treatments. I really
like the BodyGrip concept - just feels more natural to me.
Ideally, I'd like a laminate trimmer-sized tool...but they are all
limited to 1/4" shank bits and I don't want to start re-buying the
bits I have. The 5615 seems like the closest thing for me.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
Nope. You can only successfully do straight cuts with a vertical raised
panel bit. Concave and convex cuts are out.
"Chris Merrill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
> > Those are OK, until you need to do a raised panel that does not have
> > straight lines. Those type bits do not do curves.
>
> They would do the same job as a horizontal bit...in a horizontal
> router table.
>
> --
> ************************************
> Chris Merrill
> [email protected]
> (remove the ZZZ to contact me)
> ************************************
>