I'm installing some small brass catches with 4x1/2 brass
screws. I had a few, installed them, and ran out of screws. Went out
and got some more and the first two broke off in the holes :(
One is below the surface, one sticks out just enough to catch
your finger on its sharp edge. To add to the problem, the wood is
already finished (oil and shellac), so whatever I do I would like to
do with as little damage as possible.
I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?
TIA - Chuck
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}
Chuck wrote in message <[email protected]> on
Thursday 12 May 2005 06:02 pm:
> I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
> slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?
>
> TIA - Chuck
Can you drill them out from the back?
Bill
This is the best suggestion on the thread. I've used these myself for years
and they work great. They're hardened steel and last quite a while. If you
don't want to drill over the screw shank full-length, just go down a
quarter-inch or so, grab the shank of the screw with needle-nose pliers and
twist it out. After you have the screw out, and if you've centered the drill
over the broken-off screw pretty well, the hole ends up well-sized to take a
plug. Glue in a plug, re-drill it, and use some lubricant on the next screw
you put in there. Brass is very soft. McFeely sells something they call
Ackempucky for lubricating screws and it got good reviews in the mags such
as American Woodworker. The old timers just used soap.
Tom Dacon
"JeffB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There are drills like this:
> http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=2354
> or you can try to make a similar thing out of a piece of tubing. Then plug
> the hole with a dowel, and drill the pilot hole again. This time - and
> every time when using brass screws, thread a steel screw in the hole first
> to cut the threads in the wood, then install the brass screw.
> --
> JeffB
> remove no.spam. to email
>
Another future option is to use a machine screw. Drill, tap, and install.
It will actually
hold better than wood screws and much less chance of breakage.
Cheers,
cc
"Chuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm installing some small brass catches with 4x1/2 brass
> screws. I had a few, installed them, and ran out of screws. Went out
> and got some more and the first two broke off in the holes :(
> One is below the surface, one sticks out just enough to catch
> your finger on its sharp edge. To add to the problem, the wood is
> already finished (oil and shellac), so whatever I do I would like to
> do with as little damage as possible.
> I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
> slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?
>
> TIA - Chuck
>
>
> =====
> Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
> =====
> {remove curly brackets for email}
JeffB wrote:
> There are drills like this:
> http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=2354
> or you can try to make a similar thing out of a piece of tubing. Then
> plug the hole with a dowel, and drill the pilot hole again. This time -
> and every time when using brass screws, thread a steel screw in the hole
> first to cut the threads in the wood, then install the brass screw.
Or here:
http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=983
JES
There are drills like this:
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=2354
or you can try to make a similar thing out of a piece of tubing. Then plug the
hole with a dowel, and drill the pilot hole again. This time - and every time
when using brass screws, thread a steel screw in the hole first to cut the
threads in the wood, then install the brass screw.
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
You have to do it "by hand", holding the dremel. You have to rout all around
the screw, like you were digging out a post hole. The tool is a tiny ball
mill... like you would use to engrave a piece of wood. I don't have the
number, but its about the size of a #50 drill bit.
Don
"Chuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 12 May 2005 22:19:58 GMT, "Don Sforza"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>With the very tiniest of Dremel bits you can "dig out" the offending screw
>>(both of the ones you mentioned, actually).
>
> How tiny, and is there a special technique? I used a 3/32 bit
> in a drill press and it just wouldn't stay on the brass.
>
>
> Then drill out the area with a
>>1/8th or 3/16th drill and glue in a dowel of the approaipiate size.
>>Redrill
>>for the brass screw. DAMHIKT. Works llike a charm... twice on the same
>>hole, even.
>
> I've done this before, but on much larger screws and holes.
>
> -- Chuck
>
>
> =====
> Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
> =====
> {remove curly brackets for email}
"Don Sforza" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> With the very tiniest of Dremel bits you can "dig out" the offending
> screw (both of the ones you mentioned, actually). Then drill out the
> area with a 1/8th or 3/16th drill and glue in a dowel of the
> approaipiate size. Redrill for the brass screw. DAMHIKT. Works llike
> a charm... twice on the same hole, even.
>
And next time, run in a steel screw to cut the threads, remove it, and then
put in the waxed brass screw. DAMHIKT2
Patriarch
Chuck wrote:
> I'm installing some small brass catches with 4x1/2 brass
> screws. I had a few, installed them, and ran out of screws. Went out
> and got some more and the first two broke off in the holes :(
> One is below the surface, one sticks out just enough to catch
> your finger on its sharp edge. To add to the problem, the wood is
> already finished (oil and shellac), so whatever I do I would like to
> do with as little damage as possible.
> I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
> slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?
Besides all the other options you've already been given, there's one
that hasn't been mentioned. Using a small file or a Dremel cutoff
wheel, you can deepen the screw slot. The problem with this method of
course is that if the screw is recessed, you'll risk damage to the
surrounding surfaces.
For the future, definitely use a steel screw first, and I would
advise "lubing" the screws with paraffin.
Chuck Vance (who has BTDT)
On Thu, 12 May 2005 22:19:58 GMT, "Don Sforza"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>With the very tiniest of Dremel bits you can "dig out" the offending screw
>(both of the ones you mentioned, actually).
How tiny, and is there a special technique? I used a 3/32 bit
in a drill press and it just wouldn't stay on the brass.
Then drill out the area with a
>1/8th or 3/16th drill and glue in a dowel of the approaipiate size. Redrill
>for the brass screw. DAMHIKT. Works llike a charm... twice on the same
>hole, even.
I've done this before, but on much larger screws and holes.
-- Chuck
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}
On Thu, 12 May 2005 18:14:10 -0500, Patriarch
<[email protected]> wrote:
>And next time, run in a steel screw to cut the threads, remove it, and then
>put in the waxed brass screw. DAMHIKT2
I know, I know :( When the first screws went into the pilot
holes without breaking, I figured I was home free. My bad.
-- Chuck
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}
With the very tiniest of Dremel bits you can "dig out" the offending screw
(both of the ones you mentioned, actually). Then drill out the area with a
1/8th or 3/16th drill and glue in a dowel of the approaipiate size. Redrill
for the brass screw. DAMHIKT. Works llike a charm... twice on the same
hole, even.
Don Sforza
"Chuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm installing some small brass catches with 4x1/2 brass
> screws. I had a few, installed them, and ran out of screws. Went out
> and got some more and the first two broke off in the holes :(
> One is below the surface, one sticks out just enough to catch
> your finger on its sharp edge. To add to the problem, the wood is
> already finished (oil and shellac), so whatever I do I would like to
> do with as little damage as possible.
> I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
> slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?
>
> TIA - Chuck
>
>
> =====
> Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
> =====
> {remove curly brackets for email}
Thanks to all who responded. I got the Rockler screw extractor
and it made a hole around the screw, although it didn't remove it. I
used a pick and a needle-nose plier to extract the screw. I have to
say the extractor drilled a very good hole and since I could only
leave a bare 1/8" between the hole and the edge of the board, it had
to be a good hole with no drill wobble.
Now to plug, redrill, refinish, use a non-brass screw to set
the threads, and lubricate a real brass screw as the very last step.
-- Chuck
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}
On Thu, 12 May 2005 18:14:39 -0400, "Bill C." <[email protected]>
>
>Can you drill them out from the back?
Reeealy don't want to. That's the front of the cabinet. I can
repair the other side and it only shows when the lid is down. The
front is in good shape (curly grain and all).
-- Chuck
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}