"Chris Hornberger" <chris@no_spam.chornbe.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Evon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have a router mounted in a table and use it as a shaper. However, in
> > hardwood I get a lot of burn. What is causing this too fast feeding?
This
> > happens with new bits as well as old unsharpened bits. Thank you
> >
> > Evon
> >
> >
>
> Turn down the speed and feed slower.
You got it backwards on the feed rate. Slowing the feedrate will increase
the burning - same principal as with a table saw.
Bob
"Evon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a router mounted in a table and use it as a shaper. However, in
> hardwood I get a lot of burn. What is causing this too fast feeding? This
> happens with new bits as well as old unsharpened bits. Thank you
>
> Evon
>
>
Turn down the speed and feed slower.
"Greg Ostrom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 2. Making a set of fence extenders that easily plug in the fence to
> decrease the amount of wood being removed without moving the fence or the
> bit.
By "fence extenders" do you mean some kind of spacers that you insert, make
cuts, then remove for subsequent passes until you get back to the bare
fence? Please give more detail about your particular setup. I'm learning
every day.
Bob
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Evon" wrote in message
> > I have a router mounted in a table and use it as a shaper. However, in
> > hardwood I get a lot of burn. What is causing this too fast feeding?
This
> > happens with new bits as well as old unsharpened bits. Thank you
>
> Actually, a faster bit speed, and faster feed rate, may completely
alleviate
> the problem. You may have to experiment on scrap, but IME, feeding too
slow
> will cause more burn than feeding too fast.
>
> Making incremental cuts will also help with this problem.
>
Feed rate, probably. I've found I tend to burn more with higher spin rates,
tho', on hard woods. Of course, I'm perfectly willing to accept that my bits
are getting... aged. I recently moved and in setting up the new shop here,
I've vowed to spend more time on tool maintenance than in the past.
Unfortuantely trying to run a whole woodworking shop out of an 8' x 9'
storage room in the past meant that I spent 40% of all my time in setup and
teardown, not in work and tool maintenance.
Things are definitely looking up now. tho'.
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Greg Ostrom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
> > 2. Making a set of fence extenders that easily plug in the fence to
> > decrease the amount of wood being removed without moving the fence or
the
> > bit.
>
> By "fence extenders" do you mean some kind of spacers that you insert,
make
> cuts, then remove for subsequent passes until you get back to the bare
> fence? Please give more detail about your particular setup. I'm learning
> every day.
>
Exactly right. Set your bit height and your *final* cut depth on your fence,
then "pad out" the fence with spacers made of scrap wood or several layers
of some thin sheet material glued together, then make several passes
reducing the padding each time. Might take longer, but you'll be sure to not
stress your router and ultimately shaving smaller sections off is better for
the bits.
I am a noob but....
I found that with making raised panels I had the same problem and fixed it
by:
1. Slowing the bit down(the speed was too high for the size bit)
2. Making a set of fence extenders that easily plug in the fence to
decrease the amount of wood being removed without moving the fence or the
bit.
3. Moving the wood faster. Just fast enough to hear the motor begin to
slow down a bit.
"Evon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a router mounted in a table and use it as a shaper. However, in
> hardwood I get a lot of burn. What is causing this too fast feeding? This
> happens with new bits as well as old unsharpened bits. Thank you
You could think of burning as being caused by the bit passing too many times
per second in one spot on the wood. Slowing the turning speed of the router
will help. As illogical as it may feel, increase the feed rate.
Another thing that helps dramatically is to use light passes, cutting a
little at a time, while keeping the feed rate moving along.
To convince yourself this is right, get a piece of scrap and set up to cut a
light pass. Now run the work past at a very, very slow rate. In fact, stop
and let it sit for a second. I bet you will find the most burning where you
fed the slowest. It might even be completely black where you stopped
feeding.
Now go back feed the piece at a much brisker rate - probably faster than
you've been using. Beware of being too slow at the start or finish of the
piece.
Bob
"Evon" wrote in message
> I have a router mounted in a table and use it as a shaper. However, in
> hardwood I get a lot of burn. What is causing this too fast feeding? This
> happens with new bits as well as old unsharpened bits. Thank you
Actually, a faster bit speed, and faster feed rate, may completely alleviate
the problem. You may have to experiment on scrap, but IME, feeding too slow
will cause more burn than feeding too fast.
Making incremental cuts will also help with this problem.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 12:47:17 GMT, "Evon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have a router mounted in a table and use it as a shaper. However, in
>hardwood I get a lot of burn. What is causing this too fast feeding? This
>happens with new bits as well as old unsharpened bits. Thank you
>
>Evon
>
If you think about it, burn is caused by heat. So, you can't go too
fast to cause burn. Either you are too slow or bits are dull. If you
can't go faster at current depth setting then you have to take
shallower cuts and probably still increase feed rate.
Edge routing is a dance between speed(avoid burn) and depth of
cut(avoid tearout)