Hi All,
I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
precision is a factor.
Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. I'll steer clear
of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? And am I
missing any key components???
Nothing on the search here in recent years. Thanks for any comments
and recomendations.
Rich.....
On Aug 29, 8:42=A0pm, "WW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Gordon Shumway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT), rich <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
>
> >>Hi All,
>
> >> =A0 I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
> >>something to compliment my table saw and band saw. =A0I'm guessing if I
> >>get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. =A0I'm thinking 10
> >>inch blade. =A0I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
> >>precision is a factor.
>
> >>Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. =A0I'll steer clear
> >>of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? =A0And am I
> >>missing any key components???
>
> >>Nothing on the search here in recent years. =A0Thanks for any comments
> >>and recomendations.
>
> >>Rich.....
>
> > I would recommend the Makita. =A0I have their LS1013. =A0Bought it abou=
t 7
> > or 8 years ago and I'd buy another one.
>
> What he said. I also have same saw and use a 60 tooth carbide blade. =A0I
> would never part with it. Cross cutting long boards much easier than on m=
y
> table saw. Settings rock solid. WW
I rarely use my CMS for anything but rough cutting. If I have to make
miter cuts I use my TS and if the stock is too long for the TS, then I
might use the CMS but I haven't had that problem yet.
If you really want to spend money, you could go with the following:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6955-20-12-Inch-Sliding-Digital/dp/B001BBTZ=
Y4/ref=3Dsr_1_1?ie=3DUTF8&s=3Dhi&qid=3D1283133018&sr=3D8-1
They have them at Home Depot too but I think that they are around $900
there. I did play with it and it is very nice and very accurate but I
think that if I was going to lay out that much money for any saw, I
would get a new cabinet saw first.
Allen
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 23:26:12 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 8/29/10 3:18 PM, rich wrote:
>>> Hi All,
>
>> I hate when guys come on here and try to tell posters that they need
>> something other than what they are asking about..... but... :-)
>>
>> Do you have a good table saw? Since getting a cabinet saw, I hardly ever
>> touch my compound miter saw (which is a high quality one). With a good
>> sled or high quality miter gauge, you can make better cuts on the table
>> saw.
>
>Agreed, I pretty much retired my Delta 12" CMS when I up graded to a cabinet
>saw.
I graduated up to a 12" HFT slider when I started doing more deck
work. I needed the capacity and portability. Once you know the saw's
characteristics, you can produce accurate work even on a $160 cheapie
like I got, not that I need to. Hmm, maybe I'll keep the $25 Delta
10" CMS in the shop for quick hackoffs of long stock.
For shop work, the table saw is the main go-to machine for most of us.
And it's time to upgrade for me. Something I can actually install a
ZCI into this time, methinks.
--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson
On Aug 30, 3:16=A0am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "rich" wrote:
> > =A0 I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
> > something to compliment my table saw and band saw. =A0I'm guessing if
> > I
> > get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. =A0I'm thinking
> > 10
> > inch blade. =A0I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
> > precision is a factor.
>
> -----------------------
> After you have built the usual collection of sleds for your table saw
> (box joints, dado, zero clearance cross cut, panel trimming, and
> probably a 45 degree for picture frames), your use of a miter saw will
> probably be limited to cross cutting finished stock to length.
>
> As such a 12" blade is nice but not mandatory, a slider unnecessary
> and it will probably spend most of it's life locked in the 90 degree
> position.
>
> Pick one that floats your boat.
>
> IMHO. sleds are much more functional for less $$.
>
> Lew
This thread brings up an interesting point. What do we consider
essential, desirable, luxury in the tool shed?
If all you could have is 3 power tools, motorized that is, stationary
or handheld what would they be?
Thanks for some good ideas. I have a Griz saw that does a very good
job of ripping, and I made a sled that seems to work pretty well for
stuff outside of the miter. But when SHMBO parks her car in my
shop!!! I have to go to a Skill saw for some cuts due to length
limits. I have a long wall that I can devote to a miter saw. And I
like the idea of being to cut multiple pieces to length with a stop
clamped in place. Hard to do that on the table saw.
I like my Bosch Router, and I used to have a Makita 20-30 years ago.
I'll look some more there. I think that sliding feature seems worth
while! 22 inch cross cut!!!
Rich.....
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 18:21:39 -0500, "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote:
>rich wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
>> something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
>> get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
>> inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
>> precision is a factor.
>>
>> Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. I'll steer clear
>> of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? And am I
>> missing any key components???
>>
>> Nothing on the search here in recent years. Thanks for any comments
>> and recomendations.
>>
>
>If you're not interested in a new Chicago Electric model at 20% of the price
>you're willing to pay for a Bosch - and considering that a miter saw has
>gotten zero use at your shop to date and will continue at about that rate
>for the foreseeable future, keep your eye peeled on your local Cragislist.
I have one of those HF SCMS's I'll sell you. It's about to be replaced with a
Bosch, barring a better deal.
>I see quality and almost-quality miter saws (Craftsman, Makita, etc.) quite
>regularily.
>
>There's really not a lot that can go wrong with a miter saw.
An SCMS is a little more complicated than a miter saw. Likely, to break, no.
Possible to destroy, certainly.
"allen476" <[email protected]> wrote
>If you really want to spend money, you could go with the following:
>http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6955-20-12-Inch-Sliding-Digital/dp/B001BBTZY4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1283133018&sr=8-1
>They have them at Home Depot too but I think that they are around $900
>there. I did play with it and it is very nice and very accurate but I
>think that if I was going to lay out that much money for any saw, I
>would get a new cabinet saw first.
>Allen
That's the saw I have. Shortly after I bought it a friend bought a Bosch.
I prefer the Bosch. Before someone asks why, it's nothing I can really put
my finger on it's just the feel of the machine.
Max
"rich" wrote:
> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
> something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if
> I
> get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking
> 10
> inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
> precision is a factor.
-----------------------
After you have built the usual collection of sleds for your table saw
(box joints, dado, zero clearance cross cut, panel trimming, and
probably a 45 degree for picture frames), your use of a miter saw will
probably be limited to cross cutting finished stock to length.
As such a 12" blade is nice but not mandatory, a slider unnecessary
and it will probably spend most of it's life locked in the 90 degree
position.
Pick one that floats your boat.
IMHO. sleds are much more functional for less $$.
Lew
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:33fcbdae-26b9-4fc2-98e0-
[email protected]:
>
> This thread brings up an interesting point. What do we consider
> essential, desirable, luxury in the tool shed?
> If all you could have is 3 power tools, motorized that is, stationary
> or handheld what would they be?
>
Table saw, CMS, and power screwdriver set. (Ok, maybe I'm cheating a bit
with the set... It's just so much more efficient to have a drill AND a
driver.)
Runners up include a router and a sander (belt/disc combo). These 5
tools will allow you to build 90% of the projects out there and still
have a decent result.
Add the planer, jointer, and drill press and the same projects can be
built nicer, faster, and with more precision. It'll be a noticable step
up.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 8/29/10 11:25 PM, Micajah wrote:
>>
>> Every tool has a job it does best, many jobs it "can" do, and some it
>> simply is the wrong tool to use. Table saws excel in ripping, where a
>> good fence and work support are important. To do miter cuts or cross
>> cuts on larger length pieces and in particular compound miter cuts, they
>> begin to have problems. OTOH, a RAS fence and table layout are perfect
>> for crosscutting long pieces that don't exceed the capacity of the saw
>> in depth. With effort and excessive time setting up, they can be used
>> even as an overhead router or planer, to some small degree. Ripping with
>> a RAS simply is something I don't care to even try. Miter cuts involve
>> having to crank up the arm before swiveling the arm and then trying to
>> lower it enough to cut the stock, but not really gouge into the table
>> too much.
>>
>> That's where the dedicated miter saw comes in best. It can be tilted and
>> swiveled with the press of a lever, usually and makes rock solid cuts
>> with ease.
>>
>> In my old shop, I had a RAS built into a bench, so that the blade was in
>> the "middle" between the walls. I could crosscut to the center of 20'
>> material. To the right of the RAS, about a foot beyond the swing of the
>> arm, I had a recessed area on the workbench that held the miter saw, so
>> that the table of the miter saw was flush with the workbench top, which
>> was also flush with the RAS table. It was a snap to slide the miter saw
>> forward in its trough to align the saw's fence with the fence of the
>> RAS, using stops on the trough to instantly align the frame. Since it
>> was off center, I didn't have quite the length capacity, but it was
>> never a problem. It was very easy to crosscut a piece to a length with
>> the RAS, then move over to miter the other end on the miter saw.
>>
>> No saw was "best" or "worse," saw in the shop. Each did its own job
>> well, with an eye to convenience and accuracy as the goal.
>>
>> Micajah
>
>
> To each is own, I guess.
> Not too many people are needing compound miter cuts on 20' boards. :-)
Unless they're framing a roof.
> I use a hand, circular, or radial arm to cut rough lengths, then I move
> to the table saw with a sled or miter gauge. For that matter, the RAS
> with a backer board (the same type I would put on a CMS) does a great
> job with finish cuts.
> I can comfortably cut 6 or 8 foot pieces on the table saw, depending on
> the material. Nothing I'm building in the shop is going to be longer
> than that... and probably 98% will be much shorter than that.
>
> It's not my intention to convince the OP to "do it my way," but merely
> to provide him as much useful info as possible so he can make an
> informed decision.
>
> Like someone else wrote, if it needs to be portable, like for trim work,
> there's no debate, a CMS is the answer. If one already has a good
> cabinet saw and limited space, the money it takes to buy a quality CMS
> could buy/build some very high quality and super accurate
> jigs/sleds/miter gauges, etc.
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in
news:6fd8bd9e-5dff-4431-83e5-03cbc4a5a32c@a36g2000yqc.googlegroups.com:
>> Table saw, CMS, and power screwdriver set. (Ok, maybe I'm cheating a
>> bit with the set... It's just so much more efficient to have a drill
>> AND a driver.)
>>
>> Runners up include a router and a sander (belt/disc combo). These 5
>> tools will allow you to build 90% of the projects out there and still
>> have a decent result.
>>
>> Add the planer, jointer, and drill press and the same projects can be
>> built nicer, faster, and with more precision. It'll be a noticable
>> ste
> p
>> up.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
> I would have thought a router to be essential. Drill/driver, sure.
> Track saw? That'd be my 3 followed immediately by a Rotex sander. We
> won't count the vacuum as a power tool.
It's tied for 4th on my list, but I simply don't use it that much.
There's nothing wrong with square edges (with the sharp edges knocked
down with some sand paper), and most the time I need material removed
from the center of the wood it's a drilling operation.
If you're doing things like sink cut outs, I could see where a router
(or a Bosch jigsaw) would be essential.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
"rich" <[email protected]> wrote
> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
> something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
> get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
> inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
> precision is a factor.
I have a 12" DeWalt. I've never had the need for a slider. Also important
is a good blade. The blade that came with the saw was OK, but after
sharpening by Ridge Carbide, it is excellent.
On Aug 30, 11:15=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:33fcbdae-26b9-4fc2-98e0-
> [email protected]:
>
>
>
> > This thread brings up an interesting point. What do we consider
> > essential, desirable, luxury in the tool shed?
> > If all you could have is 3 power tools, motorized that is, stationary
> > or handheld what would they be?
>
> Table saw, CMS, and power screwdriver set. (Ok, maybe I'm cheating a bit
> with the set... It's just so much more efficient to have a drill AND a
> driver.)
>
> Runners up include a router and a sander (belt/disc combo). =A0These 5
> tools will allow you to build 90% of the projects out there and still
> have a decent result.
>
> Add the planer, jointer, and drill press and the same projects can be
> built nicer, faster, and with more precision. =A0It'll be a noticable ste=
p
> up.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
I would have thought a router to be essential. Drill/driver, sure.
Track saw? That'd be my 3 followed immediately by a Rotex sander. We
won't count the vacuum as a power tool.
Every tool has a job it does best, many jobs it "can" do, and some it simply
is the wrong tool to use. Table saws excel in ripping, where a good fence
and work support are important. To do miter cuts or cross cuts on larger
length pieces and in particular compound miter cuts, they begin to have
problems. OTOH, a RAS fence and table layout are perfect for crosscutting
long pieces that don't exceed the capacity of the saw in depth. With effort
and excessive time setting up, they can be used even as an overhead router
or planer, to some small degree. Ripping with a RAS simply is something I
don't care to even try. Miter cuts involve having to crank up the arm
before swiveling the arm and then trying to lower it enough to cut the
stock, but not really gouge into the table too much.
That's where the dedicated miter saw comes in best. It can be tilted and
swiveled with the press of a lever, usually and makes rock solid cuts with
ease.
In my old shop, I had a RAS built into a bench, so that the blade was in the
"middle" between the walls. I could crosscut to the center of 20' material.
To the right of the RAS, about a foot beyond the swing of the arm, I had a
recessed area on the workbench that held the miter saw, so that the table of
the miter saw was flush with the workbench top, which was also flush with
the RAS table. It was a snap to slide the miter saw forward in its trough
to align the saw's fence with the fence of the RAS, using stops on the
trough to instantly align the frame. Since it was off center, I didn't have
quite the length capacity, but it was never a problem. It was very easy to
crosscut a piece to a length with the RAS, then move over to miter the other
end on the miter saw.
No saw was "best" or "worse," saw in the shop. Each did its own job well,
with an eye to convenience and accuracy as the goal.
Micajah
On Aug 30, 3:25=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 8/30/10 2:23 PM, Micajah wrote:
>
> > I think one of the "luxuries" of having a RAS, cabinet and CMS is the
> > lack of time spent changing settings when making something, and for my
> > own purposes, I include most of the 'sleds' used with a cabinet saw in
> > that category.
>
> > Micajah
>
> Not too many of us are set up like a production factory (or Norm for
> that matter) to have dedicated power tools at dedicated station for
> dedicated tasks. =A0 :-)
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
What? No Timesaver at your shop, Mike? :-)
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 8/29/10 3:18 PM, rich wrote:
>> Hi All,
> I hate when guys come on here and try to tell posters that they need
> something other than what they are asking about..... but... :-)
>
> Do you have a good table saw? Since getting a cabinet saw, I hardly ever
> touch my compound miter saw (which is a high quality one). With a good
> sled or high quality miter gauge, you can make better cuts on the table
> saw.
Agreed, I pretty much retired my Delta 12" CMS when I up graded to a cabinet
saw.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> To each is own, I guess.
> Not too many people are needing compound miter cuts on 20' boards. :-)
Neither did I, Mike. I used it as an example mainly for the crosscut
distance of the RAS, which I DID use occasionally. I made many of the
Jake's Chairs in prototype and then in final versions for my own use and for
neighbors. There, I'd get cypress and after planing it, would cut it to
rough length on the RAS.
I think one of the "luxuries" of having a RAS, cabinet and CMS is the lack
of time spent changing settings when making something, and for my own
purposes, I include most of the 'sleds' used with a cabinet saw in that
category.
Micajah
>
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:a700428b-f427-4a1e-a87a-
[email protected]:
> On Aug 29, 5:26 pm, Gordon Shumway <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I would recommend the Makita. I have their LS1013. Bought it about
>> 7 or 8 years ago and I'd buy another one.
>
> In a heartbeat.
I've also had the Makita LS1013 for about 8 years. It gets quite a bit of
use both at home and at job various sites. Dead nuts accurate even after
being knocked off makeshift stands a couple of times. A great saw.
On Aug 29, 5:26=A0pm, Gordon Shumway <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT), rich <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >Hi All,
>
> > =A0 I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
> >something to compliment my table saw and band saw. =A0I'm guessing if I
> >get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. =A0I'm thinking 10
> >inch blade. =A0I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
> >precision is a factor.
>
> >Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. =A0I'll steer clear
> >of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? =A0And am I
> >missing any key components???
>
> >Nothing on the search here in recent years. =A0Thanks for any comments
> >and recomendations.
>
> >Rich.....
>
> I would recommend the Makita. =A0I have their LS1013. =A0Bought it about =
7
> or 8 years ago and I'd buy another one.
In a heartbeat.
On 8/29/2010 3:52 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 8/29/10 3:18 PM, rich wrote:
>> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
> I hate when guys come on here and try to tell posters that they need
> something other than what they are asking about..... but... :-)
>
> Do you have a good table saw? Since getting a cabinet saw, I hardly ever
> touch my compound miter saw (which is a high quality one). With a good
> sled or high quality miter gauge, you can make better cuts on the table
> saw.
What he said ... providing you have a good table saw, and are not doing
trim carpenter work, I wouldn't make the ability to do compound cuts
high on the list of requirements when shopping for an accurate miter saw.
With good sleds, I rarely use my Makita LS1013 for anything but rough
cutting and the occasional trim work, and then rarely in "compound" mode
... so rare, it's been years since its been moved off vertical.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Mon, 30 Aug 2010 09:23:30 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Aug 30, 11:15 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:33fcbdae-26b9-4fc2-98e0-
>> [email protected]:
>>
>>
>>
>> > This thread brings up an interesting point. What do we consider
>> > essential, desirable, luxury in the tool shed?
>> > If all you could have is 3 power tools, motorized that is, stationary
>> > or handheld what would they be?
>>
>> Table saw, CMS, and power screwdriver set. (Ok, maybe I'm cheating a bit
>> with the set... It's just so much more efficient to have a drill AND a
>> driver.)
>>
>> Runners up include a router and a sander (belt/disc combo). These 5
>> tools will allow you to build 90% of the projects out there and still
>> have a decent result.
>>
>> Add the planer, jointer, and drill press and the same projects can be
>> built nicer, faster, and with more precision. It'll be a noticable step
>> up.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>> --
>> Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
>
>I would have thought a router to be essential. Drill/driver, sure.
>Track saw? That'd be my 3 followed immediately by a Rotex sander. We
>won't count the vacuum as a power tool.
So, er, ah, what, it's a...sex toy?
--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson
On 8/29/10 3:18 PM, rich wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
> something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
> get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
> inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
> precision is a factor.
>
> Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. I'll steer clear
> of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? And am I
> missing any key components???
>
> Nothing on the search here in recent years. Thanks for any comments
> and recomendations.
>
> Rich.....
>
I hate when guys come on here and try to tell posters that they need
something other than what they are asking about..... but... :-)
Do you have a good table saw? Since getting a cabinet saw, I hardly ever
touch my compound miter saw (which is a high quality one). With a good
sled or high quality miter gauge, you can make better cuts on the table
saw.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 8/29/10 3:18 PM, rich wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
>> something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
>> get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
>> inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
>> precision is a factor.
>>
>> Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. I'll steer clear
>> of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? And am I
>> missing any key components???
>>
>> Nothing on the search here in recent years. Thanks for any comments
>> and recomendations.
>>
>> Rich.....
>>
>
> I hate when guys come on here and try to tell posters that they need
> something other than what they are asking about..... but... :-)
>
> Do you have a good table saw? Since getting a cabinet saw, I hardly ever
> touch my compound miter saw (which is a high quality one). With a good
> sled or high quality miter gauge, you can make better cuts on the table
> saw.
I use my table saw for just about everything, and I've got a nice Delta
radial arm and a fair Hitachi miter saw. It's a mid to midlow price Rigid,
but it works good. I even use it for cutting aluminum. The blades seem to
hold up better on it than my other saws too. Same blades. Well, not the
Delta. Its bigger.
On 8/29/10 11:25 PM, Micajah wrote:
>
> Every tool has a job it does best, many jobs it "can" do, and some it
> simply is the wrong tool to use. Table saws excel in ripping, where a
> good fence and work support are important. To do miter cuts or cross
> cuts on larger length pieces and in particular compound miter cuts, they
> begin to have problems. OTOH, a RAS fence and table layout are perfect
> for crosscutting long pieces that don't exceed the capacity of the saw
> in depth. With effort and excessive time setting up, they can be used
> even as an overhead router or planer, to some small degree. Ripping with
> a RAS simply is something I don't care to even try. Miter cuts involve
> having to crank up the arm before swiveling the arm and then trying to
> lower it enough to cut the stock, but not really gouge into the table
> too much.
>
> That's where the dedicated miter saw comes in best. It can be tilted and
> swiveled with the press of a lever, usually and makes rock solid cuts
> with ease.
>
> In my old shop, I had a RAS built into a bench, so that the blade was in
> the "middle" between the walls. I could crosscut to the center of 20'
> material. To the right of the RAS, about a foot beyond the swing of the
> arm, I had a recessed area on the workbench that held the miter saw, so
> that the table of the miter saw was flush with the workbench top, which
> was also flush with the RAS table. It was a snap to slide the miter saw
> forward in its trough to align the saw's fence with the fence of the
> RAS, using stops on the trough to instantly align the frame. Since it
> was off center, I didn't have quite the length capacity, but it was
> never a problem. It was very easy to crosscut a piece to a length with
> the RAS, then move over to miter the other end on the miter saw.
>
> No saw was "best" or "worse," saw in the shop. Each did its own job
> well, with an eye to convenience and accuracy as the goal.
>
> Micajah
To each is own, I guess.
Not too many people are needing compound miter cuts on 20' boards. :-)
I use a hand, circular, or radial arm to cut rough lengths, then I move
to the table saw with a sled or miter gauge. For that matter, the RAS
with a backer board (the same type I would put on a CMS) does a great
job with finish cuts.
I can comfortably cut 6 or 8 foot pieces on the table saw, depending on
the material. Nothing I'm building in the shop is going to be longer
than that... and probably 98% will be much shorter than that.
It's not my intention to convince the OP to "do it my way," but merely
to provide him as much useful info as possible so he can make an
informed decision.
Like someone else wrote, if it needs to be portable, like for trim work,
there's no debate, a CMS is the answer. If one already has a good
cabinet saw and limited space, the money it takes to buy a quality CMS
could buy/build some very high quality and super accurate
jigs/sleds/miter gauges, etc.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 8/30/10 12:21 PM, Max wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 8/29/10 11:25 PM, Micajah wrote:
>>>
>>> Every tool has a job it does best, many jobs it "can" do, and some it
>>> simply is the wrong tool to use. Table saws excel in ripping, where a
>>> good fence and work support are important. To do miter cuts or cross
>>> cuts on larger length pieces and in particular compound miter cuts, they
>>> begin to have problems. OTOH, a RAS fence and table layout are perfect
>>> for crosscutting long pieces that don't exceed the capacity of the saw
>>> in depth. With effort and excessive time setting up, they can be used
>>> even as an overhead router or planer, to some small degree. Ripping with
>>> a RAS simply is something I don't care to even try. Miter cuts involve
>>> having to crank up the arm before swiveling the arm and then trying to
>>> lower it enough to cut the stock, but not really gouge into the table
>>> too much.
>>>
>>> That's where the dedicated miter saw comes in best. It can be tilted and
>>> swiveled with the press of a lever, usually and makes rock solid cuts
>>> with ease.
>>>
>>> In my old shop, I had a RAS built into a bench, so that the blade was in
>>> the "middle" between the walls. I could crosscut to the center of 20'
>>> material. To the right of the RAS, about a foot beyond the swing of the
>>> arm, I had a recessed area on the workbench that held the miter saw, so
>>> that the table of the miter saw was flush with the workbench top, which
>>> was also flush with the RAS table. It was a snap to slide the miter saw
>>> forward in its trough to align the saw's fence with the fence of the
>>> RAS, using stops on the trough to instantly align the frame. Since it
>>> was off center, I didn't have quite the length capacity, but it was
>>> never a problem. It was very easy to crosscut a piece to a length with
>>> the RAS, then move over to miter the other end on the miter saw.
>>>
>>> No saw was "best" or "worse," saw in the shop. Each did its own job
>>> well, with an eye to convenience and accuracy as the goal.
>>>
>>> Micajah
>>
>>
>> To each is own, I guess.
>> Not too many people are needing compound miter cuts on 20' boards. :-)
>
> Unless they're framing a roof.
>
Wow, that contributed a lot. Thanks so much.
Oh yeah, google "emoticon" when you get a sec.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 8/30/10 12:45 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> This thread brings up an interesting point. What do we consider
>>> essential, desirable, luxury in the tool shed?
>>> If all you could have is 3 power tools, motorized that is, stationary
>>> or handheld what would they be?
>
> Would a Shopsmith be cheating?
Do you have one? Do you like it?
The people I know who have had them have spent more time switching the
thing from one operation to another than using it. Also, I'm guessing
you could get the same quality in individual tools for the same or less $$.
honestly asking...
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 8/30/2010 11:15 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Robatoy<[email protected]> wrote in news:33fcbdae-26b9-4fc2-98e0-
> [email protected]:
>
>>
>> This thread brings up an interesting point. What do we consider
>> essential, desirable, luxury in the tool shed?
>> If all you could have is 3 power tools, motorized that is, stationary
>> or handheld what would they be?
>>
>
> Table saw, CMS, and power screwdriver set. (Ok, maybe I'm cheating a bit
> with the set... It's just so much more efficient to have a drill AND a
> driver.)
>
> Runners up include a router and a sander (belt/disc combo). These 5
> tools will allow you to build 90% of the projects out there and still
> have a decent result.
>
> Add the planer, jointer, and drill press and the same projects can be
> built nicer, faster, and with more precision. It'll be a noticable step
> up.
>
> Puckdropper
Would a Shopsmith be cheating?
On 8/30/10 2:23 PM, Micajah wrote:
> I think one of the "luxuries" of having a RAS, cabinet and CMS is the
> lack of time spent changing settings when making something, and for my
> own purposes, I include most of the 'sleds' used with a cabinet saw in
> that category.
>
> Micajah
Not too many of us are set up like a production factory (or Norm for
that matter) to have dedicated power tools at dedicated station for
dedicated tasks. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 8/30/2010 3:40 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Robatoy<[email protected]> wrote in
> news:6fd8bd9e-5dff-4431-83e5-03cbc4a5a32c@a36g2000yqc.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>>> Table saw, CMS, and power screwdriver set. (Ok, maybe I'm cheating a
>>> bit with the set... It's just so much more efficient to have a drill
>>> AND a driver.)
>>>
>>> Runners up include a router and a sander (belt/disc combo). These 5
>>> tools will allow you to build 90% of the projects out there and still
>>> have a decent result.
>>>
>>> Add the planer, jointer, and drill press and the same projects can be
>>> built nicer, faster, and with more precision. It'll be a noticable
>>> ste
>> p
>>> up.
>>>
>>> Puckdropper
>>
>> I would have thought a router to be essential. Drill/driver, sure.
>> Track saw? That'd be my 3 followed immediately by a Rotex sander. We
>> won't count the vacuum as a power tool.
>
> It's tied for 4th on my list, but I simply don't use it that much.
> There's nothing wrong with square edges (with the sharp edges knocked
> down with some sand paper), and most the time I need material removed
> from the center of the wood it's a drilling operation.
>
> If you're doing things like sink cut outs, I could see where a router
> (or a Bosch jigsaw) would be essential.
Right now if I had to limit myself to three it would have to be the
drill press, band saw, and table saw. A couple of years ago it would
have been Skilsaw, impact driver, and Multimaster. Two years down the
road, who knows?
On 8/30/2010 2:05 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 8/30/10 12:45 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> This thread brings up an interesting point. What do we consider
>>>> essential, desirable, luxury in the tool shed?
>>>> If all you could have is 3 power tools, motorized that is, stationary
>>>> or handheld what would they be?
>>
>> Would a Shopsmith be cheating?
>
> Do you have one? Do you like it?
> The people I know who have had them have spent more time switching the
> thing from one operation to another than using it. Also, I'm guessing
> you could get the same quality in individual tools for the same or less $$.
>
> honestly asking...
The hypothetical case was that you could have only three power tools.
In that scenario Shopsmith becomes attractive and that leaves me
wondering what I'd do for the other two.
What would _your_ three tools be?
On 8/30/10 4:42 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> The hypothetical case was that you could have only three power tools. In
> that scenario Shopsmith becomes attractive and that leaves me wondering
> what I'd do for the other two.
>
> What would _your_ three tools be?
>
Table saw, router table and cordless drill/driver, since that's what
gets the majority of my time, now. If we're not counting hand tools,
then I'd add a lathe, since with all the attachments I've made for it,
it's sort of my shopsmith. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 8/30/2010 4:53 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> Right now if I had to limit myself to three it would have to be the drill
> press, band saw, and table saw.
Those three would be my choice as well. The drill press was one of the first
"big" tools I bought and it continues to be one of the most useful.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Aug 30, 3:16 am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "rich" wrote:
>> > I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
>> > something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if
>> > I
>> > get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking
>> > 10
>> > inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
>> > precision is a factor.
>>
>> -----------------------
>> After you have built the usual collection of sleds for your table saw
>> (box joints, dado, zero clearance cross cut, panel trimming, and
>> probably a 45 degree for picture frames), your use of a miter saw will
>> probably be limited to cross cutting finished stock to length.
>>
>> As such a 12" blade is nice but not mandatory, a slider unnecessary
>> and it will probably spend most of it's life locked in the 90 degree
>> position.
>>
>> Pick one that floats your boat.
>>
>> IMHO. sleds are much more functional for less $$.
>>
>> Lew
>
> This thread brings up an interesting point. What do we consider
> essential, desirable, luxury in the tool shed?
> If all you could have is 3 power tools, motorized that is, stationary
> or handheld what would they be?
220V wire feed welder, table saw, mill drill.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Aug 29, 5:26 pm, Gordon Shumway <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT), rich <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >Hi All,
>>
>> > I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
>> >something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
>> >get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
>> >inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
>> >precision is a factor.
>>
>> >Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. I'll steer clear
>> >of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? And am I
>> >missing any key components???
>>
>> >Nothing on the search here in recent years. Thanks for any comments
>> >and recomendations.
>>
>> >Rich.....
>>
>> I would recommend the Makita. I have their LS1013. Bought it about 7
>> or 8 years ago and I'd buy another one.
>
> In a heartbeat.
In my shop, I had both a good cabinet saw and RAS. Still, I had a bench
mounted compound miter saw as well, and used it to good advantage. There's
a place for all three, plus the obvious benefit of a band saw. Back then,
my compound miter saw was the Sears one. It weighed a ton and was
sufficiently stable that I never felt the need to bolt it into the recess I
had for it on the RAS benchtop.
When I rebuilt and repurchased some tools, I bought the Makita compound
sliding miter saw and would give consideration in a permanent shop to having
it bench mounted to be used like a RAS. The benefit is that in a straight
cross cut, I can cut to 22", where the RAS would only do 17". I cannot
recall a time when I used the RAS for ripping, since that's what a cabinet
saw is best doing. The RAS was primarily for crosscuts and repetitive
length pieces, which the compound miter saw can do easily, plus the more
complicated miter and compound miter cuts.
Micahah
"Gordon Shumway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT), rich <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Hi All,
>>
>> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
>>something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
>>get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
>>inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
>>precision is a factor.
>>
>>Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. I'll steer clear
>>of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? And am I
>>missing any key components???
>>
>>Nothing on the search here in recent years. Thanks for any comments
>>and recomendations.
>>
>>Rich.....
>
> I would recommend the Makita. I have their LS1013. Bought it about 7
> or 8 years ago and I'd buy another one.
What he said. I also have same saw and use a 60 tooth carbide blade. I
would never part with it. Cross cutting long boards much easier than on my
table saw. Settings rock solid. WW
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT), rich <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi All,
>
> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
>something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
>get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
>inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
>precision is a factor.
>
>Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. I'll steer clear
>of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? And am I
>missing any key components???
>
>Nothing on the search here in recent years. Thanks for any comments
>and recomendations.
>
>Rich.....
I would recommend the Makita. I have their LS1013. Bought it about 7
or 8 years ago and I'd buy another one.
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 13:18:15 -0700 (PDT), rich <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi All,
>
> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
>something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
>get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
>inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
>precision is a factor.
>
>Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. I'll steer clear
>of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? And am I
>missing any key components???
>
>Nothing on the search here in recent years. Thanks for any comments
>and recomendations.
I've been seriously looking, as well. Lowes has the 12" DeWalt ($630), Bosch
($600 - was on sale for $550, grr), and Hitachi ($500) SMCSs, and a number of
chop saws (not interested). A few weeks ago they had a Makita 10" SMCS, but I
didn't much like it either. I think I would rather have the 10" Bosch, but no
one around carries them. Of the three models at Lowes, I think the Bosch is
the hands-down winner and will probably pick one up this week. It's getting
cooler so I can start building my shop again.
Of course you could buy a FesteringTool Kapex for a mere $1300. ;-)
rich wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I think my last tool ( lol ) needed is a compound miter saw -
> something to compliment my table saw and band saw. I'm guessing if I
> get a miter saw, I might as well get a compound one. I'm thinking 10
> inch blade. I do some furniture and grandkid toys, so quality and
> precision is a factor.
>
> Amazon has Bosch, Hitachi and Makita for $500 +/-. I'll steer clear
> of any off brands, but which is the current favorite brand? And am I
> missing any key components???
>
> Nothing on the search here in recent years. Thanks for any comments
> and recomendations.
>
If you're not interested in a new Chicago Electric model at 20% of the price
you're willing to pay for a Bosch - and considering that a miter saw has
gotten zero use at your shop to date and will continue at about that rate
for the foreseeable future, keep your eye peeled on your local Cragislist.
I see quality and almost-quality miter saws (Craftsman, Makita, etc.) quite
regularily.
There's really not a lot that can go wrong with a miter saw.