Thu, Nov 18, 2004, 1:31pm (EST+5) [email protected] (JMWEBER987) says:
The little dodad on the end is more pointey
You really should have dumbed down your response more, not all the
people here will know what technical terms like those mean.
JOAT
Measure twice, cut once, swear repeatedly.
I'm not 100% sure, but I would guess diamond impregnated metal tip running
with very low thrust and lots of coolant. Same basic procedure as glass.
You aren't really drilling as much as wearing away a round hole.
Search google for "drilling holes in glass" or something similar.
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
http://www.autodrill.com
http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com
V8013
i work in a hobby shop where we do ceramics.
the bit i found that worked best has a flat, slightly curved bit that comes
to a point. no cooling fluid is necessary
to use it and it lasts for years. it's fairly cheap. we mostly use it when
someone forgets to drill the hole in a lamp base
before firing the lamp in the kiln. i'm no metallurgist, sorry...but i
believe you can find those bits at most hardware stores.
rich
"Max63" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm familiar with drill bits for wood, for metal and for masonry.
> Question is, drilling in Ceramic/porcelain requires a special tip. It
> looks like the same tip for masonry.
> Is it? If not, what is the difference.
> Technical replies are most welcomed....
> Max
> [a chemist]
Charles Spitzer wrote:
> "Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On 18 Nov 2004 05:07:48 -0800, [email protected] (Max63) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Question is, drilling in Ceramic/porcelain requires a special tip. It
>>>looks like the same tip for masonry.
>>>Is it?
>>
>>No.
>>
>>Masonry is brittle on a small scale, but not on a big scale. So we
>>don't usually _drill_ it, we chisel through it with a hammer drill. If
>>you look at the edges of a masonry drill bit, they're blunt and have
>>no edges at all.
>>
>>If you try to hammer-drill glass or ceramics, they'll crack. So you
>>need to use a rotating chisel edge, as we do for wood or metal.
>>Because they're hard materials though, we use the same tungsten
>>carbide inserts as the masonry bits, but they're not ground the same.
>>
>>Most drilled glass or cermaic is in thin sheets, so there's not much
>>dust or swarf to get rid of. They don't need the spiral flutes to
>>clear the muck. The simplest drill bit is thus a "leaf" bit, a simple
>>oval of carbide, brazed onto a narrow shaft and sharpened with a sharp
>>edge. These are cheap, not too hard to find, and the best way to drill
>>most glassware.
>
>
> i drill glass sinks. 1" to 1.5" thick. diamond core drills are fastest,
> although loose carbide and a piece of copper pipe works too. use lots of
> water.
>
> a tripod drill with a center water feed tap is best. these are NOT cheap.
>
Or an ultrasonic mill/drill
http://www.sonicmill.com/
Got what I'm told is the only one in the UK at work...
Niel.
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 18 Nov 2004 05:07:48 -0800, [email protected] (Max63) wrote:
>
>>Question is, drilling in Ceramic/porcelain requires a special tip. It
>>looks like the same tip for masonry.
>>Is it?
>
> No.
>
> Masonry is brittle on a small scale, but not on a big scale. So we
> don't usually _drill_ it, we chisel through it with a hammer drill. If
> you look at the edges of a masonry drill bit, they're blunt and have
> no edges at all.
>
> If you try to hammer-drill glass or ceramics, they'll crack. So you
> need to use a rotating chisel edge, as we do for wood or metal.
> Because they're hard materials though, we use the same tungsten
> carbide inserts as the masonry bits, but they're not ground the same.
>
> Most drilled glass or cermaic is in thin sheets, so there's not much
> dust or swarf to get rid of. They don't need the spiral flutes to
> clear the muck. The simplest drill bit is thus a "leaf" bit, a simple
> oval of carbide, brazed onto a narrow shaft and sharpened with a sharp
> edge. These are cheap, not too hard to find, and the best way to drill
> most glassware.
i drill glass sinks. 1" to 1.5" thick. diamond core drills are fastest,
although loose carbide and a piece of copper pipe works too. use lots of
water.
a tripod drill with a center water feed tap is best. these are NOT cheap.
> Drill ceramics wet with oil. Make a circular dam around the hole,
> using glazier's putty (which is made of oil, so it's oil-resistant -
> Blu-tack will loosen and fall off). Put a shallow puddle of oil inside
> this dam - almost anything will do. Then drill slowly and with light
> pressure, "dabbing" the drill up and down to let the dust out. Be
> _very_ careful when the hold breaks through to the far side.
>
> You really need a drill press to do this. Hand-drilling it will have a
> lot of breakages.
>
> --
> Smert' spamionam
"Badger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> i drill glass sinks. 1" to 1.5" thick. diamond core drills are fastest,
>> although loose carbide and a piece of copper pipe works too. use lots of
>> water.
>>
>> a tripod drill with a center water feed tap is best. these are NOT cheap.
>>
> Or an ultrasonic mill/drill
> http://www.sonicmill.com/
> Got what I'm told is the only one in the UK at work...
>
> Niel.
those look way cool, and a probably more than a few orders magnitude more
expensive than a tripod drill.
i suppose a water jet could cut these too, but those are probably out of the
price range of a normal user. i use my sandblaster for thin (<.25") glass
myself.
On 18 Nov 2004 05:07:48 -0800, [email protected] (Max63) wrote:
>Question is, drilling in Ceramic/porcelain requires a special tip. It
>looks like the same tip for masonry.
>Is it?
No.
Masonry is brittle on a small scale, but not on a big scale. So we
don't usually _drill_ it, we chisel through it with a hammer drill. If
you look at the edges of a masonry drill bit, they're blunt and have
no edges at all.
If you try to hammer-drill glass or ceramics, they'll crack. So you
need to use a rotating chisel edge, as we do for wood or metal.
Because they're hard materials though, we use the same tungsten
carbide inserts as the masonry bits, but they're not ground the same.
Most drilled glass or cermaic is in thin sheets, so there's not much
dust or swarf to get rid of. They don't need the spiral flutes to
clear the muck. The simplest drill bit is thus a "leaf" bit, a simple
oval of carbide, brazed onto a narrow shaft and sharpened with a sharp
edge. These are cheap, not too hard to find, and the best way to drill
most glassware.
Drill ceramics wet with oil. Make a circular dam around the hole,
using glazier's putty (which is made of oil, so it's oil-resistant -
Blu-tack will loosen and fall off). Put a shallow puddle of oil inside
this dam - almost anything will do. Then drill slowly and with light
pressure, "dabbing" the drill up and down to let the dust out. Be
_very_ careful when the hold breaks through to the far side.
You really need a drill press to do this. Hand-drilling it will have a
lot of breakages.
--
Smert' spamionam