I am turning half of my two car garage into a workshop. The floor
slopes from house to the garage door with a difference of about 3" from
beginning to end. I would like to level up this one side and do it with
wood to save my back. What would be the best way to do this?
--
Just James
"Never utter these words: I do not know this, therefore it is false.
One must study to know; know to understand; understand to judge." ~
Apothegm of Narda
Just James <[email protected]> wrote in news:Fwv8l.12425$yr3.10492
@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com:
> I am turning half of my two car garage into a workshop. The floor
> slopes from house to the garage door with a difference of about 3" from
> beginning to end. I would like to level up this one side and do it with
> wood to save my back. What would be the best way to do this?
>
I'd seriously look in to a leveling compound. Concrete and wood don't
often play nice with each other, so by the time you've bought and hauled
pressure treated or extra foam padding, you might as well have gotten the
leveling compound.
Puckdropper
--
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as some
writers are incorrigible.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
On Jan 5, 4:07=A0pm, Just James <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am turning half of my two car garage into a workshop. =A0The floor
> slopes from house to the garage door with a difference of about 3" from
> beginning to end. =A0I would like to level up this one side and do it wit=
h
> wood to save my back. =A0What would be the best way to do this?
>
> --
> Just James
>
> "Never utter these words: =91I do not know this, therefore it is false.=
=92
> One must study to know; know to understand; understand to judge." ~
> Apothegm of Narda
I guess I don't understand your purpose in leveling the work area. Is
it so your machines will sit level? If that is the reason get some
heavy duty leveling screw pads to put under the corners of your
machines.
If it is because you just want to stand on a level surface buy a pair
of Dr. Scholl's gel pad inserts. Put the Gel Pad in your "downhill"
foot and leave it out of the uphill foot. Total cost $4.00. Find a
friend that has a garage floor sloping the other direction and split
the cost.
GL2
Puckdropper wrote:
> Just James <[email protected]> wrote in news:Fwv8l.12425$yr3.10492
> @nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com:
>
>> I am turning half of my two car garage into a workshop. The floor
>> slopes from house to the garage door with a difference of about 3" from
>> beginning to end. I would like to level up this one side and do it with
>> wood to save my back. What would be the best way to do this?
>>
>
> I'd seriously look in to a leveling compound. Concrete and wood don't
> often play nice with each other, so by the time you've bought and hauled
> pressure treated or extra foam padding, you might as well have gotten the
> leveling compound.
>
> Puckdropper
Leveling compound? How is that much different than just pouring a floor
over the one I have? I have seem many instances where a wood floor was
put on concrete without leveling the concrete first.
--
Just James
"Never utter these words: I do not know this, therefore it is false.
One must study to know; know to understand; understand to judge." ~
Apothegm of Narda
TwoGuns wrote:
> On Jan 5, 4:07 pm, Just James <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I am turning half of my two car garage into a workshop. The floor
>> slopes from house to the garage door with a difference of about 3" from
>> beginning to end. I would like to level up this one side and do it with
>> wood to save my back. What would be the best way to do this?
>>
>> --
>> Just James
>>
>> "Never utter these words: I do not know this, therefore it is false.
>> One must study to know; know to understand; understand to judge." ~
>> Apothegm of Narda
>
> I guess I don't understand your purpose in leveling the work area. Is
> it so your machines will sit level? If that is the reason get some
> heavy duty leveling screw pads to put under the corners of your
> machines.
>
> If it is because you just want to stand on a level surface buy a pair
> of Dr. Scholl's gel pad inserts. Put the Gel Pad in your "downhill"
> foot and leave it out of the uphill foot. Total cost $4.00. Find a
> friend that has a garage floor sloping the other direction and split
> the cost.
>
> GL2
The purpose is both. I want to save my back and have a level surface to
work on. The trouble I currently have is the space is just small, so
all the tools have to be pressed near the wall and moved out to use.
Specifically the table saw. It is on locking casters and it gets stuck
just trying to pull it out and turn it the right direction.
--
Just James
"Never utter these words: I do not know this, therefore it is false.
One must study to know; know to understand; understand to judge." ~
Apothegm of Narda
"Just James" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am turning half of my two car garage into a workshop. The floor slopes
>from house to the garage door with a difference of about 3" from beginning
>to end. I would like to level up this one side and do it with wood to save
>my back. What would be the best way to do this?
I did a room a bit bigger than that size by scribing sleepers to the floor
and cutting them on my band saw. Then I put insulation between the sleepers
and topped with 3/4" T&G sub-flooring. I screwed the sleepers down to the
slab with Tapcon screws with sill sealer between the wood and concrete for
an air/moisture barrier. They could be shot down or attached with some other
type of concrete anchor too.
I am misrepresenting my role here a bit... my kids did a bunch of the
scribing and other work for me. They were 8 and 10 at the time and did a
fine job after I showed them how... I think their naturally being close to
the ground was an asset here compared to me kneeling and bending. ;~) I'll
post a few photos to ABPW of the boys at work and one that shows the extreme
variance I had to work with to deal with a concrete ramp and varying floor
heights.
John
On Mon, 5 Jan 2009 19:52:56 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Just James" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>I am turning half of my two car garage into a workshop. The floor slopes
>>from house to the garage door with a difference of about 3" from beginning
>>to end. I would like to level up this one side and do it with wood to save
>>my back. What would be the best way to do this?
>
>I did a room a bit bigger than that size by scribing sleepers to the floor
>and cutting them on my band saw. Then I put insulation between the sleepers
>and topped with 3/4" T&G sub-flooring. I screwed the sleepers down to the
>slab with Tapcon screws with sill sealer between the wood and concrete for
>an air/moisture barrier. They could be shot down or attached with some other
>type of concrete anchor too.
>
>I am misrepresenting my role here a bit... my kids did a bunch of the
>scribing and other work for me. They were 8 and 10 at the time and did a
>fine job after I showed them how... I think their naturally being close to
>the ground was an asset here compared to me kneeling and bending. ;~) I'll
>post a few photos to ABPW of the boys at work and one that shows the extreme
>variance I had to work with to deal with a concrete ramp and varying floor
>heights.
>
>John
...the sleeper route is best, I think. Are you framing a wall between
garage and where you're leveling? If you are it makes it a bit easier
to stage the first of the sleepers. Anything like this that I've
done, and there've been a few over the years, always starts with
getting the end pieces cut and making sure they are level...once that
is accomplished it's a matter of stringing between them at the thick
end and checking each piece after the initial cut with a straightedge
(like a screed) and adjusting if need be with shims or trimming.
'Tween you and me (heh) I usually go from nothing to whatever the
large measurement is, snap a line on the stock, and blaze away with a
Skillsaw. If your largest measurement is 3" then 2x4 stock would
garner two ripped pieces so when you lay 'em down the factory edge is
on top...needless to say, these pieces should span the entire
distance; that way you don't have to piece anything in. Attachment is
up to your discretion depending on weather conditions and how your
slab is affected.
cg
On Mon, 5 Jan 2009 21:42:32 -0800 (PST), TwoGuns
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Jan 5, 4:07 pm, Just James <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I am turning half of my two car garage into a workshop. The floor
>> slopes from house to the garage door with a difference of about 3" from
>> beginning to end. I would like to level up this one side and do it with
>> wood to save my back. What would be the best way to do this?
>>
>> --
>> Just James
>>
>> "Never utter these words: I do not know this, therefore it is false.
>> One must study to know; know to understand; understand to judge." ~
>> Apothegm of Narda
>
>I guess I don't understand your purpose in leveling the work area. Is
>it so your machines will sit level? If that is the reason get some
>heavy duty leveling screw pads to put under the corners of your
>machines.
>
>If it is because you just want to stand on a level surface buy a pair
>of Dr. Scholl's gel pad inserts. Put the Gel Pad in your "downhill"
>foot and leave it out of the uphill foot. Total cost $4.00. Find a
>friend that has a garage floor sloping the other direction and split
>the cost.
>
>GL2
...LOL, I second the motion!
cg
Charlie Groh wrote:
> On Mon, 5 Jan 2009 19:52:56 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> "Just James" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I am turning half of my two car garage into a workshop. The floor slopes
>> >from house to the garage door with a difference of about 3" from beginning
>>> to end. I would like to level up this one side and do it with wood to save
>>> my back. What would be the best way to do this?
>> I did a room a bit bigger than that size by scribing sleepers to the floor
>> and cutting them on my band saw. Then I put insulation between the sleepers
>> and topped with 3/4" T&G sub-flooring. I screwed the sleepers down to the
>> slab with Tapcon screws with sill sealer between the wood and concrete for
>> an air/moisture barrier. They could be shot down or attached with some other
>> type of concrete anchor too.
>>
>> I am misrepresenting my role here a bit... my kids did a bunch of the
>> scribing and other work for me. They were 8 and 10 at the time and did a
>> fine job after I showed them how... I think their naturally being close to
>> the ground was an asset here compared to me kneeling and bending. ;~) I'll
>> post a few photos to ABPW of the boys at work and one that shows the extreme
>> variance I had to work with to deal with a concrete ramp and varying floor
>> heights.
>>
>> John
>
> ...the sleeper route is best, I think. Are you framing a wall between
> garage and where you're leveling? If you are it makes it a bit easier
> to stage the first of the sleepers. Anything like this that I've
> done, and there've been a few over the years, always starts with
> getting the end pieces cut and making sure they are level...once that
> is accomplished it's a matter of stringing between them at the thick
> end and checking each piece after the initial cut with a straightedge
> (like a screed) and adjusting if need be with shims or trimming.
> 'Tween you and me (heh) I usually go from nothing to whatever the
> large measurement is, snap a line on the stock, and blaze away with a
> Skillsaw. If your largest measurement is 3" then 2x4 stock would
> garner two ripped pieces so when you lay 'em down the factory edge is
> on top...needless to say, these pieces should span the entire
> distance; that way you don't have to piece anything in. Attachment is
> up to your discretion depending on weather conditions and how your
> slab is affected.
>
> cg
I had not considered putting up a wall, but that is an idea too. I am
new to wood having only built a few things, so I generally need a
picture of what is being described, but I think I get what you are
saying here.
--
Just James
"Never utter these words: I do not know this, therefore it is false.
One must study to know; know to understand; understand to judge." ~
Apothegm of Narda
>I'd seriously look in to a leveling compound.
That's a LOT of leveling compound, and that stuff ain't cheap. And I
doubt it's durable enough for a shop floor without some other cover
(linoleum, etc.). And, if you're ever going to move, consider how
you'd deal with the wedge of leveling compound. Not to mention
building codes.....
I'd consider living with the slope by adjusting your tool stands, and
getting good matts.
-Zz