tT

[email protected] (ToolMiser)

29/09/2004 11:02 PM

Contact cement removal

I picked up a little two drawer chest made out of maple at a garage sale for
$5.00. It had a "aftermarket" plastic laminate top that I removed, but I need
to get rid of the remaining contact adhesive. It released pretty easily, and
there is probably an original finish underneath (it will have to be
refinished). The bond between the adhesive and the old finish isn't real good.
I can work some off with a putty knife, but it would take a lot of time to do
the whole top. I know if I use a belt sander it will gum up a lot of belts.
Good ideas are welcome.

Thanks


This topic has 15 replies

JH

"John Hofstad-Parkhill"

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

29/09/2004 9:07 PM

I would consider mineral spirits.

sD

[email protected] (Doug Miller)

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 12:39 PM

In article <[email protected]>, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Probably not a good idea. Acetone is a bit *too* active as a solvent, and
>> it
>> *will* damage the finish underneath. It's also one huge fire hazard.
>
>Agreed that it will damage the finish but the OP has already indicated that
>the finish will have to be re-done.
>
Yeah, but the trouble I see is that the acetone may dissolve the existing
finish and carry it deeper into the wood, making it much more difficult to
redo.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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Lr

"Leon"

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

29/09/2004 11:11 PM

Acetone

"ToolMiser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I picked up a little two drawer chest made out of maple at a garage sale
> for
> $5.00. It had a "aftermarket" plastic laminate top that I removed, but I
> need
> to get rid of the remaining contact adhesive. It released pretty easily,
> and
> there is probably an original finish underneath (it will have to be
> refinished). The bond between the adhesive and the old finish isn't real
> good.
> I can work some off with a putty knife, but it would take a lot of time to
> do
> the whole top. I know if I use a belt sander it will gum up a lot of
> belts.
> Good ideas are welcome.
>
> Thanks

bb

"bw"

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 4:48 AM

ToolMiser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I picked up a little two drawer chest made out of maple at a garage sale
> for
> $5.00. It had a "aftermarket" plastic laminate top that I removed, but I
> need
> to get rid of the remaining contact adhesive. It released pretty easily,
> and
> there is probably an original finish underneath (it will have to be
> refinished). The bond between the adhesive and the old finish isn't real
> good.
> I can work some off with a putty knife, but it would take a lot of time to
> do
> the whole top. I know if I use a belt sander it will gum up a lot of
> belts.
> Good ideas are welcome.
>
> Thanks

Ask the pharmacy for 90 percent rubbing alcohol. Regular rubbing alcohol is
70 percent.

Pn

Phisherman

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 5:10 PM

On 29 Sep 2004 23:02:39 GMT, [email protected] (ToolMiser) wrote:

> I picked up a little two drawer chest made out of maple at a garage sale for
>$5.00. It had a "aftermarket" plastic laminate top that I removed, but I need
>to get rid of the remaining contact adhesive. It released pretty easily, and
>there is probably an original finish underneath (it will have to be
>refinished). The bond between the adhesive and the old finish isn't real good.
> I can work some off with a putty knife, but it would take a lot of time to do
>the whole top. I know if I use a belt sander it will gum up a lot of belts.
>Good ideas are welcome.
>
>Thanks

A scraper or even a 1/4" thick piece of glass should work well. See
if mineral spirits or acetone does anything to the adhesive.

tT

[email protected] (ToolMiser)

in reply to Phisherman on 30/09/2004 5:10 PM

30/09/2004 9:40 PM

Thanks everyone for the ideas, I'll let you know what works for me.

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 3:56 AM


"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Probably not a good idea. Acetone is a bit *too* active as a solvent, and
> it
> *will* damage the finish underneath. It's also one huge fire hazard.

Agreed that it will damage the finish but the OP has already indicated that
the finish will have to be re-done.




Lr

"Leon"

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 12:48 PM


"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
have to be re-done.
>>
> Yeah, but the trouble I see is that the acetone may dissolve the existing
> finish and carry it deeper into the wood, making it much more difficult to
> redo.


I see, that may be.

sD

[email protected] (Doug Miller)

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 1:55 AM

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (ToolMiser) wrote:
> I picked up a little two drawer chest made out of maple at a garage sale for
>$5.00. It had a "aftermarket" plastic laminate top that I removed, but I need
>to get rid of the remaining contact adhesive. It released pretty easily, and
>there is probably an original finish underneath (it will have to be
>refinished). The bond between the adhesive and the old finish isn't real good.
> I can work some off with a putty knife, but it would take a lot of time to do
>the whole top. I know if I use a belt sander it will gum up a lot of belts.
>Good ideas are welcome.
>
Wipe it down with mineral spirits (paint thinner). That will probably soften
the contact adhesive, and loosen it -- you should then be able to remove it
easily with a putty knife.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

CS

"Charles Spitzer"

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

29/09/2004 4:11 PM

the trick is getting something to dissolve the cement, but not affect the
finish underneath it. you might try some mild strippers. i know acetone will
do in contact cement, but it will really do a number on most finishes.

you might also try a hair dryer or heat gun, carefully.

"ToolMiser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I picked up a little two drawer chest made out of maple at a garage sale
> for
> $5.00. It had a "aftermarket" plastic laminate top that I removed, but I
> need
> to get rid of the remaining contact adhesive. It released pretty easily,
> and
> there is probably an original finish underneath (it will have to be
> refinished). The bond between the adhesive and the old finish isn't real
> good.
> I can work some off with a putty knife, but it would take a lot of time to
> do
> the whole top. I know if I use a belt sander it will gum up a lot of
> belts.
> Good ideas are welcome.
>
> Thanks

nn

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 7:50 AM

One here carries both but on different shelves.

On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 04:48:36 -0500, "bw" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Ask the pharmacy for 90 percent rubbing alcohol. Regular rubbing alcohol is
>70 percent.

LJ

Larry Jaques

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 7:47 AM

On 29 Sep 2004 23:02:39 GMT, [email protected] (ToolMiser) calmly
ranted:

> I picked up a little two drawer chest made out of maple at a garage sale for
>$5.00. It had a "aftermarket" plastic laminate top that I removed, but I need
>to get rid of the remaining contact adhesive. It released pretty easily, and
>there is probably an original finish underneath (it will have to be
>refinished). The bond between the adhesive and the old finish isn't real good.
> I can work some off with a putty knife, but it would take a lot of time to do
>the whole top. I know if I use a belt sander it will gum up a lot of belts.
>Good ideas are welcome.

I use a heat gun and putty knife to remove the thicker part
and lacquer thinner to get the rest, once it's dry and the
heat gun is put away.

If/when you re-laminate, make sure to keep windows/doors open.
(Ditto lacquer thinner) Contact cement contains chloroform.


-------------------------------------------------
- Boldly going - * Wondrous Website Design
- nowhere. - * http://www.diversify.com
-------------------------------------------------

sD

[email protected] (Doug Miller)

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 1:53 AM

In article <[email protected]>, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Acetone

Probably not a good idea. Acetone is a bit *too* active as a solvent, and it
*will* damage the finish underneath. It's also one huge fire hazard.

>
>"ToolMiser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I picked up a little two drawer chest made out of maple at a garage sale
>> for
>> $5.00. It had a "aftermarket" plastic laminate top that I removed, but I
>> need
>> to get rid of the remaining contact adhesive. It released pretty easily,
>> and
>> there is probably an original finish underneath (it will have to be
>> refinished). The bond between the adhesive and the old finish isn't real
>> good.
>> I can work some off with a putty knife, but it would take a lot of time to
>> do
>> the whole top. I know if I use a belt sander it will gum up a lot of
>> belts.
>> Good ideas are welcome.
>>
>> Thanks
>
>

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

GG

Greg G.

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 12:01 AM

ToolMiser said:

> I picked up a little two drawer chest made out of maple at a garage sale for
>$5.00. It had a "aftermarket" plastic laminate top that I removed, but I need
>to get rid of the remaining contact adhesive. It released pretty easily, and
>there is probably an original finish underneath (it will have to be
>refinished). The bond between the adhesive and the old finish isn't real good.
> I can work some off with a putty knife, but it would take a lot of time to do
>the whole top. I know if I use a belt sander it will gum up a lot of belts.
>Good ideas are welcome.
>
>Thanks

I used Lacquer Thinner to clean up the excess slop I had on a router
table top and drill press table. They were edged with oak and poplar
and LT didn't seem to harm the wood, but it would probably strip ANY
finish to the bare wood. I got NO swelling of the wood, as with water
based substances. Wet a rag with LT, wear glove, provide cross
ventilation, and scrub away the bulk of it. Then use a Sandvik card
scraper to remove the remainder.

FWIW,

Greg G.

EP

"Edwin Pawlowski"

in reply to [email protected] (ToolMiser) on 29/09/2004 11:02 PM

30/09/2004 2:52 AM


"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>Acetone
>
> Probably not a good idea. Acetone is a bit *too* active as a solvent, and
> it
> *will* damage the finish underneath. It's also one huge fire hazard.

If other solvents don't work but acetone does, dilute the acetone with
alcohol. It will not be as aggressive. Will still be very flammable
though. I'd use it outdoors.


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