Making the panels for my bookcase. Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry.
Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through the
blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. This gave me
pretty wavy boards.
I am pretty sure I need to make a new re-saw fence for my Rikon. One
more thing to do...
GarageWoodworks wrote:
<Snip>
>
> I am either going to build a nice re-saw fence or make a good single-
> contact pivot fence.
>
> I'm still very happy with the bandsaw otherwise. Just that POS fence!!
I've made both a re-saw fence and the single contact pivot fence.
The single point works much better for me.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"GarageWoodworks" wrote:
> Making the panels for my bookcase. Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry.
> Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
>
> I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through
> the
> blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. This gave me
> pretty wavy boards.
When making free hand cuts, have you also used a reference pin (Same
as a starter pin on a router table)?
Lew
"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> If you go here there are several BS videos. Scroll to the bottom to the
> video titled The Perfect Cut ResawKing. It is about 20 minutes long but
> interesting. Another video about the Laguna guides is also quite
> interesting and helps you to understand what is going on with the guides
> during operation.
>
> http://www.lagunatools.com/company/video-bandsaw
I'll check that out. Thanks Leon
I probably should have mentioned to be very careful at the Laguna site.....
My repeated visit to help sort why my Rikon was not doing what I thought it
should be doing resulted in me eventually placing an order for the LT16 HD
Laguna.....
On Jan 9, 9:28=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "GarageWoodworks" wrote:
> > Making the panels for my bookcase. =A0Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry.
> > Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
>
> > I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through
> > the
> > blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. =A0This gave me
> > pretty wavy boards.
>
> When making free hand cuts, have you also used a reference pin (Same
> as a starter pin on a router table)?
>
> Lew
My fence has a pin that can be attached. I should have used it
tonight, but forgot I had one. Doh!
On Jan 9, 9:14=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Making the panels for my bookcase. =A0Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry.
> > Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
>
> > I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through the
> > blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. =A0This gave me
> > pretty wavy boards.
>
> > I am pretty sure I need to make a new re-saw fence for my Rikon. =A0One
> > more thing to do...
>
> I noticed that too when I had the Rikon, it is was really the fence so mu=
ch
> as the blade.
>
> But to rule out a few things,,,,
>
> 1. =A0You did adjust the fence for drift,,,,right.
> 1. =A0You are using a 1 to 3 TPI blade.....right.
> 1. =A0You have the blade properly tensioned.......
1. Drift- yes. The fence moves though. If you push the tail end of
the fence it will also felx. POS fence!!!
2. I use a 1" Wood Slicer. (nice blade!!)
3. Yes. The blade doesn't 'cup' the wood, which I use as an
indicator of improper tension.
I am either going to build a nice re-saw fence or make a good single-
contact pivot fence.
I'm still very happy with the bandsaw otherwise. Just that POS fence!!
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Did you let them know how much of your time they wasted?
I did, and I also told them that this relationship was over.
On Jan 10, 10:51=A0am, Steve Turner <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On 1/9/2010 9:36 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
>
> > On Jan 9, 10:32 pm, Steve Turner<[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >> On 1/9/2010 8:19 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
>
> >>> I'm still very happy with the bandsaw otherwise. =A0Just that POS fen=
ce!!
>
> >> What model Rikon do you have?
>
> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Bandsaw.php
>
> You haven't yet mentioned anything about the adjustment of your thrust
> bearings. =A0Have you checked to make sure both the top and bottom thrust
> bearings aren't allowing the blade to drift backwards as pressure is appl=
ied
> (and forwards as it is released)? =A0You should start by backing all the =
bearings
> (both side and thrust, upper and lower) completely away from the blade, t=
hen
> get the blade to track correctly on the wheels. =A0Assuming the blade is =
good and
> sharp (a relatively new 3/4" Woodslicer ought to be *damn* sharp), you sh=
ould
> at this point be able to slowly feed small scrap pieces (ones that won't =
cause
> too much resistance on the blade) and not have the blade try to drift bac=
kwards
> across the surface of the wheels. =A0If the blade is walking around on th=
e drive
> wheels, this is going to change the drift angle of the cut. =A0Even witho=
ut the
> thrust bearings in place, you should choose a tracking position where the=
blade
> isn't prone to walking around, then position the thrust bearings right be=
hind
> the blade (with a gap not much more than the thickness of a piece of pape=
r) so
> they will maintain that position as feed pressure is applied. =A0Only the=
n can
> you reliably adjust the fence for drift angle.
>
> --
> See Nad. =A0See Nad go. =A0Go Nad!
> To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Thanks Steve. I will give this a try.
On Jan 10, 12:45=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > If you go here there are several BS videos. Scroll to the bottom to the
> > video titled The Perfect Cut ResawKing. It is about 20 minutes long but
> > interesting. Another video about the Laguna guides is also quite
> > interesting and helps you to understand what is going on with the guide=
s
> > during operation.
>
> >http://www.lagunatools.com/company/video-bandsaw
>
> I'll check that out. =A0Thanks Leon
>
> I probably should have mentioned to be very careful at the Laguna site...=
..
> My repeated visit to help sort why my Rikon was not doing what I thought =
it
> should be doing resulted in me eventually placing an order for the LT16 H=
D
> Laguna.....
One thing that REALLY turned me off with Laguna was the very pushy
sales man.
"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Making the panels for my bookcase. Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry.
> Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
>
> I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through the
> blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. This gave me
> pretty wavy boards.
>
> I am pretty sure I need to make a new re-saw fence for my Rikon. One
> more thing to do...
You might try taking a look here for some tips. I saw some of these videos
3-4 years ago but they are very informative with an expected bias towards
Laguna BSs. I am not trying to sell you on Laguna but these video's can be
very helpful in determining if you are always going to be chasing your tail
or not. ;~)
If you go here there are several BS videos. Scroll to the bottom to the
video titled The Perfect Cut ResawKing. It is about 20 minutes long but
interesting. Another video about the Laguna guides is also quite
interesting and helps you to understand what is going on with the guides
during operation.
http://www.lagunatools.com/company/video-bandsaw
On 10 Jan, 02:21, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> wrote:
> correction. =A03/4" WoodSlicer. (went and measured it.)
Try a _narrower_ blade.
The advice to go wide for a resaw blade is fine, until you've reached
a blade cross-section that's now too much for the limits of your saw
to adequately tension. If you're having problems with the fence's
stability, then I doubt your saw is built to adequately tension a 1"
blade (I know mine isn't!).
Thin resaw blades also tend to deflect backwards (still leaving a flat
cut), where others might give you a barrel shaped resaw, that's really
not what you want.
On Jan 9, 10:32=A0pm, Steve Turner <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On 1/9/2010 8:19 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
>
> > I'm still very happy with the bandsaw otherwise. =A0Just that POS fence=
!!
>
> What model Rikon do you have?
>
> --
> "Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
> than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
> To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Bandsaw.php
On Jan 9, 9:19=A0pm, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Jan 9, 9:14=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > "GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> > > Making the panels for my bookcase. =A0Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry.
> > > Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
>
> > > I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through the
> > > blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. =A0This gave me
> > > pretty wavy boards.
>
> > > I am pretty sure I need to make a new re-saw fence for my Rikon. =A0O=
ne
> > > more thing to do...
>
> > I noticed that too when I had the Rikon, it is was really the fence so =
much
> > as the blade.
>
> > But to rule out a few things,,,,
>
> > 1. =A0You did adjust the fence for drift,,,,right.
> > 1. =A0You are using a 1 to 3 TPI blade.....right.
> > 1. =A0You have the blade properly tensioned.......
>
> 1. Drift- yes. =A0The fence moves though. =A0If you push the tail end of
> the fence it will also felx. =A0POS fence!!!
> 2. I use a 1" Wood Slicer. =A0(nice blade!!)
> 3. Yes. =A0 The blade doesn't 'cup' the wood, which I use as an
> indicator of improper tension.
>
> I am either going to build a nice re-saw fence or make a good single-
> contact pivot fence.
>
> I'm still very happy with the bandsaw otherwise. =A0Just that POS fence!!
correction. 3/4" WoodSlicer. (went and measured it.)
"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Making the panels for my bookcase. Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry.
> Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
>
> I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through the
> blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. This gave me
> pretty wavy boards.
>
> I am pretty sure I need to make a new re-saw fence for my Rikon. One
> more thing to do...
I noticed that too when I had the Rikon, it is was really the fence so much
as the blade.
But to rule out a few things,,,,
1. You did adjust the fence for drift,,,,right.
1. You are using a 1 to 3 TPI blade.....right.
1. You have the blade properly tensioned.......
"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Making the panels for my bookcase. Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry.
> Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
>
> I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through the
> blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. This gave me
> pretty wavy boards.
>
> I am pretty sure I need to make a new re-saw fence for my Rikon. One
> more thing to do...
You might try taking a look here for some tips. I saw some of these videos
3-4 years ago but they are very informative with an expected bias towards
Laguna BSs. I am not trying to sell you on Laguna but these video's can be
very helpful in determining if you are always going to be chasing your tail
or not. ;~)
If you go here there are several BS videos. Scroll to the bottom to the
video titled The Perfect Cut ResawKing. It is about 20 minutes long but
interesting. Another video about the Laguna guides is also quite
interesting and helps you to understand what is going on with the guides
during operation.
http://www.lagunatools.com/company/video-bandsaw
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:6b41274a-2727-457d-ad8a-3ee3db313f22@z41g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
>
> One thing that REALLY turned me off with Laguna was the very pushy
> sales man.
>
> I have heard about that problem but never witnessed that at all
> personally.
>
> I did however start the process off with "I want to see the saw before
> even considering a purchase". Since you need to live near California to
> see the saws and or wait for a WW show to come around they knew it would
> be a couple of months before I purchased.
>
> That said, I did not call until I was certain that I wanted to buy one and
> when I did call I dealt with one salesman. He and I agreed on a price,
> IIRC I got it for about $400 off reg pricing for everything I purchased.
> That price would be lowered if the WW show offered a better deal. It did
> not. So basically the conversations went on for 2 or 3 months. He never
> called me unless he was returning my call.
>
> I also considered MiniMax and they are headquartered in Austin TX about 3
> hours away from where I live. I talked to them make an appointment to
> see the saw of interest and they confirmed the appointment the day before.
>
> The next day when I go there to look at their saw no one was aware I was
> coming and the only saw they had to show me was missing the guides....
> The trip was a waste of time.
>
Did you let them know how much of your time they wasted?
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 11:41:49 -0600, Leon wrote:
> You use use a sharpening stone rubbed up and around the back sides of
> the blade. Do this with the saw running. There are stones made for
> this specific purpose but I suspect any fine grain stone will work. The
> ceramic guides on the Laguna automatically does this.
Yes, any medium/fine oil/water stone will work. The idea is that during
the manufacturing process, a (possibly undetectable) burr is formed on
one side thus forcing the blade in the opposite direction.
I've even seenis suggested that if that doesn't work, a little stoning on
one side of the teeth might work - I haven't tried that one.
One addition to Leon's response:
Do this *very carefully* with the saw running :-).
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:55947987-fff9-48b7-82a3-d9cd81a6f29d@e27g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
> But to rule out a few things,,,,
>
> 1. You did adjust the fence for drift,,,,right.
> 1. You are using a 1 to 3 TPI blade.....right.
> 1. You have the blade properly tensioned.......
1. Drift- yes. The fence moves though. If you push the tail end of
the fence it will also felx. POS fence!!!
2. I use a 1" Wood Slicer. (nice blade!!)
3. Yes. The blade doesn't 'cup' the wood, which I use as an
indicator of improper tension.
I am either going to build a nice re-saw fence or make a good single-
contact pivot fence.
Well I will not argue about the fence.... it is rather light weight.
To be sure again, when you free hand with out the fence is it easy to keep
it going in a straight line? If you are having to change direction/make
direction adjustments while sawing there is something more that is wrong
than just the fence.
Now if the fence movement causes you to go off line and free handing is easy
to do I would agree that the fence is probably the root of the problem.
Have you tried clamping the back end of the fence down to see if that
improves the situation?
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On 10 Jan, 02:21, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> wrote:
> correction. 3/4" WoodSlicer. (went and measured it.)
Try a _narrower_ blade.
The advice to go wide for a resaw blade is fine, until you've reached
a blade cross-section that's now too much for the limits of your saw
to adequately tension. If you're having problems with the fence's
stability, then I doubt your saw is built to adequately tension a 1"
blade (I know mine isn't!).
Thin resaw blades also tend to deflect backwards (still leaving a flat
cut), where others might give you a barrel shaped resaw, that's really
not what you want.
Althought his blade is actually 3/4" rather than 1" your point is correct.
And while you can correctly tension a blade on a saw that does does not mean
that the saw can hold all of the other adjustements in check while doing so.
On Sat, 09 Jan 2010 18:19:14 -0800, GarageWoodworks wrote:
> 1. Drift- yes. The fence moves though. If you push the tail end of the
> fence it will also felx. POS fence!!! 2. I use a 1" Wood Slicer. (nice
> blade!!) 3. Yes. The blade doesn't 'cup' the wood, which I use as an
> indicator of improper tension.
4. I found that rounding the back of the blade pretty much eliminated
drift on my Rikon (14" deluxe). And I haven't seen any flex on the
fence, but then I don't see the need to put a great deal of force against
it.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On Jan 10, 10:40=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Making the panels for my bookcase. =A0Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry.
> > Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
>
> > I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through the
> > blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. =A0This gave me
> > pretty wavy boards.
>
> > I am pretty sure I need to make a new re-saw fence for my Rikon. =A0One
> > more thing to do...
>
> You might try taking a look here for some tips. =A0I saw some of these vi=
deos
> 3-4 years ago but they are very informative with an expected bias towards
> Laguna BSs. =A0I am not trying to sell you on Laguna but these video's ca=
n be
> very helpful in determining if you are always going to be chasing your ta=
il
> or not. =A0;~)
>
> If you go here there are several BS videos. =A0Scroll to the bottom to th=
e
> video titled The Perfect Cut ResawKing. =A0It is about 20 minutes long bu=
t
> interesting. =A0Another =A0video about the Laguna guides is also quite
> interesting and helps you to understand what is going on with the guides
> during operation.
>
> http://www.lagunatools.com/company/video-bandsaw
I'll check that out. Thanks Leon
On Jan 10, 11:51=A0am, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 09 Jan 2010 18:19:14 -0800, GarageWoodworks wrote:
> > 1. Drift- yes. =A0The fence moves though. =A0If you push the tail end o=
f the
> > fence it will also felx. =A0POS fence!!! 2. I use a 1" Wood Slicer. =A0=
(nice
> > blade!!) 3. Yes. =A0 The blade doesn't 'cup' the wood, which I use as a=
n
> > indicator of improper tension.
>
> 4. =A0I found that rounding the back of the blade pretty much eliminated
> drift on my Rikon (14" deluxe). =A0And I haven't seen any flex on the
> fence, but then I don't see the need to put a great deal of force against
> it.
>
> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
What process did you use to round the back of the blade?
On 1/9/2010 8:19 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
> I'm still very happy with the bandsaw otherwise. Just that POS fence!!
What model Rikon do you have?
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 1/9/2010 9:36 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
> On Jan 9, 10:32 pm, Steve Turner<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> On 1/9/2010 8:19 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
>>
>>> I'm still very happy with the bandsaw otherwise. Just that POS fence!!
>>
>> What model Rikon do you have?
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Bandsaw.php
You haven't yet mentioned anything about the adjustment of your thrust
bearings. Have you checked to make sure both the top and bottom thrust
bearings aren't allowing the blade to drift backwards as pressure is applied
(and forwards as it is released)? You should start by backing all the bearings
(both side and thrust, upper and lower) completely away from the blade, then
get the blade to track correctly on the wheels. Assuming the blade is good and
sharp (a relatively new 3/4" Woodslicer ought to be *damn* sharp), you should
at this point be able to slowly feed small scrap pieces (ones that won't cause
too much resistance on the blade) and not have the blade try to drift backwards
across the surface of the wheels. If the blade is walking around on the drive
wheels, this is going to change the drift angle of the cut. Even without the
thrust bearings in place, you should choose a tracking position where the blade
isn't prone to walking around, then position the thrust bearings right behind
the blade (with a gap not much more than the thickness of a piece of paper) so
they will maintain that position as feed pressure is applied. Only then can
you reliably adjust the fence for drift angle.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 01/10/2010 09:20 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 11:41:49 -0600, Leon wrote:
>
>> You use use a sharpening stone rubbed up and around the back sides of
>> the blade. Do this with the saw running. There are stones made for
>> this specific purpose but I suspect any fine grain stone will work. The
>> ceramic guides on the Laguna automatically does this.
>
> Yes, any medium/fine oil/water stone will work. The idea is that during
> the manufacturing process, a (possibly undetectable) burr is formed on
> one side thus forcing the blade in the opposite direction.
>
> I've even seenis suggested that if that doesn't work, a little stoning on
> one side of the teeth might work - I haven't tried that one.
>
> One addition to Leon's response:
>
> Do this *very carefully* with the saw running :-).
I'd qualify that by saying "with very minimal pressure". There is no such thing as a
"negative" thrust bearing, meaning that there is nothing preventing the pressure you apply
from forcing the blade forward on the drive wheels, possibly to the point where it hops
right off and soils your underwear.
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b13cc352-25e0-4417-880a-0ab7b683691e@p24g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 10, 11:51 am, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 09 Jan 2010 18:19:14 -0800, GarageWoodworks wrote:
> > 1. Drift- yes. The fence moves though. If you push the tail end of the
> > fence it will also felx. POS fence!!! 2. I use a 1" Wood Slicer. (nice
> > blade!!) 3. Yes. The blade doesn't 'cup' the wood, which I use as an
> > indicator of improper tension.
>
> 4. I found that rounding the back of the blade pretty much eliminated
> drift on my Rikon (14" deluxe). And I haven't seen any flex on the
> fence, but then I don't see the need to put a great deal of force against
> it.
>
> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
What process did you use to round the back of the blade?
You use use a sharpening stone rubbed up and around the back sides of the
blade. Do this with the saw running. There are stones made for this
specific purpose but I suspect any fine grain stone will work. The ceramic
guides on the Laguna automatically does this.
"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6b41274a-2727-457d-ad8a-3ee3db313f22@z41g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
One thing that REALLY turned me off with Laguna was the very pushy
sales man.
I have heard about that problem but never witnessed that at all personally.
I did however start the process off with "I want to see the saw before even
considering a purchase". Since you need to live near California to see the
saws and or wait for a WW show to come around they knew it would be a couple
of months before I purchased.
That said, I did not call until I was certain that I wanted to buy one and
when I did call I dealt with one salesman. He and I agreed on a price, IIRC
I got it for about $400 off reg pricing for everything I purchased. That
price would be lowered if the WW show offered a better deal. It did not.
So basically the conversations went on for 2 or 3 months. He never called
me unless he was returning my call.
I also considered MiniMax and they are headquartered in Austin TX about 3
hours away from where I live. I talked to them make an appointment to see
the saw of interest and they confirmed the appointment the day before.
The next day when I go there to look at their saw no one was aware I was
coming and the only saw they had to show me was missing the guides.... The
trip was a waste of time.