This link was in their email.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/making_cove_video?et_mid=590607&rid=233687408
I have a hard time with this guy. I don't think he is very safe.
He uses a 10 to 12 inch wide board and says its hard to reach over it...
so my method is better.
I would not be using anything that wide. Maybe 4 to 5 inches.
I put mine on both sides, but only the side closest is important
Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the piece
folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottomed
push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of the
blade and should be where his hand is.
Flame shields on.. but this is a woodworking topic... :-)
On Nov 21, 7:07=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/20/2012 9:16 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> > Just curious, would you try to cut a long piece of crown like that?
>
> Sure ...as Mike says, just support it like you would any other long cut,
> like outfeed roller stands, etc.
>
> No need to take any extraordinary steps.
>
> --www.eWoodShop.com
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
After watching the video and reading the comments, I just want to
remind everyone that there are many ways to skin a cat per se. As
long as the individual is doing the task that feels comfortable and
safe to him/her, that is what matters. Whether he uses a wide board
or a skinny board has no bearing on the instructions, as long as it
straight. He didn't feel comfortable reaching over the board, so he'd
rather be safe by having it on the far side. Good for him.
Regarding the push stick comments. that may be the only one he has or
its the one he has that he felt comfortable with.
The video was made to show the technique used to make the molding.
Everyone has different ways for doing things based on unknown factors
and preferences. Just watch and learn from the video and don't be a
movie critic.
Robin
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 17:57:45 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
wrote:
>This link was in their email.
>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/making_cove_video?et_mid=590607&rid=233687408
>
>I have a hard time with this guy. I don't think he is very safe.
>He uses a 10 to 12 inch wide board and says its hard to reach over it...
>so my method is better.
>
>I would not be using anything that wide. Maybe 4 to 5 inches.
>I put mine on both sides, but only the side closest is important
>
>Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the piece
>folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottomed
>push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of the
>blade and should be where his hand is.
>
>Flame shields on.. but this is a woodworking topic... :-)
Agree 100%. A few years back, Huey was held to the fire for some other
unsafe practices which don't immediately come to mind.
On 11/21/2012 8:31 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> Sheperd's are great dogs. What kind of dog (aside from not friendly to
> other dogs) was your dads?
He was a registered Staffordshire Bull Terrier. A bit stockier and more
bulldog looking than the current Pit Bull here in the US.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On 11/21/2012 07:48 PM, Mike M wrote:
>
> Been there, years back I had a Malamute, one day going by the
> neighbors she ended up in a tussle with a shepard, doberman and yes a
> springer spaniel. 3 on 1 didn't seem fair. Springer spaniel was
> entertainment he latched onto the hair on the Mals ass and held on as
> they went in circles with no feet on the ground. My first mistake was
> a bare knuckle swing on the shepards mouth, damn that hurt. Next drop
> kicked the Doby in the nuts, didn't faze him but hurt my ankle, then
> the neighbors wife turned the hose on all of us. They still give me a
> bad time about fighting with the dogs. But we were the only ones that
> didn't need treatment. That was a great dog.
>
> Mike M
>
Also had a female Malamute - Nanook. Most gentle dog you would ever see
- except if she thought other animals (including cats) or people were in
danger. I heard her bark 3 times in 10 years, but she could do a quiet
continuous woof to greet me, along with a full body wag. Having to have
her put down due to cancer brought tears to my eyes.
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
On Nov 20, 5:58=A0pm, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
> This link was in their email.http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/maki=
ng_cove_video?et_mid=3D5906...
>
> I have a hard time with this guy. I don't think he is very safe.
> He uses a 10 to 12 inch wide board and says its hard to reach over it...
> so my method is better.
>
> I would not be using anything that wide. Maybe 4 to 5 inches.
> I put mine on both sides, but only the side closest is important
>
> Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the piece
> folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottomed
> push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of the
> blade and should be where his hand is.
>
> Flame shields on.. but this is a woodworking topic... :-)
Push shoe rather than stick is a given. 1/4" of roof over
the blade is asking for it to snap under the weight of his
hand.
On 11/21/2012 3:02 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/21/2012 12:55 PM, rlz wrote:
>> On Nov 21, 7:07 am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On 11/20/2012 9:16 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just curious, would you try to cut a long piece of crown like that?
>>>
>>> Sure ...as Mike says, just support it like you would any other long cut,
>>> like outfeed roller stands, etc.
>>>
>>> No need to take any extraordinary steps.
>>>
>>> --www.eWoodShop.com
>>> Last update: 4/15/2010
>>> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
>>
>> After watching the video and reading the comments, I just want to
>> remind everyone that there are many ways to skin a cat per se. As
>> long as the individual is doing the task that feels comfortable and
>> safe to him/her, that is what matters. Whether he uses a wide board
>> or a skinny board has no bearing on the instructions, as long as it
>> straight. He didn't feel comfortable reaching over the board, so he'd
>> rather be safe by having it on the far side. Good for him.
>
> Actually many that have accidents felt comfortable with the methods that
> they used. So feeling safe does not equal being safe. Concerning the
> wide or skinny board, it damn well better be wide enough that it will
> not bend while you are feeding against it. Yes it needs to be straight
> and needs to remain straight.
>
>
>>
>> Regarding the push stick comments. that may be the only one he has or
>> its the one he has that he felt comfortable with.
>
> Actually this is the guy that suggested several years ago to run your
> boards through a jointer with our push blocks. He feels that you need
> to feel what is going on with the wood while surfacing the board, so
> push them through with your bare hands. I'll pass.
>
>
>
Yea me too. I have had kick back on the jointer. When hitting a knot or
figured wood. Sometimes the board is not sitting flat (hence the need to
joint) and when it hits tough wood it can shake, rattle and roll :-)..
or scare the shit out of you. Nope, would not keep my hands there. I
had the foam on my pushblock ripped off while trying to fight the
kickback once. Only an idiot would stick his hands near that blade.
Gives me the shudders thinking about getting too close to it.
BTW recovering from a dog bite (tried saving my dog from an attack), if
the bite is like a jointer or tablesaw accident, Then I recommend you
are better safe than sorry.
On 11/21/2012 4:30 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> BTW recovering from a dog bite (tried saving my dog from an attack), if
> the bite is like a jointer or tablesaw accident, Then I recommend you
> are better safe than sorry.
Ouch ... the 2nd most painful injury I ever had was a dog bite. My Dad's
Staffordhire Bull Terrier (aka pit bull), bit completely through my left
hand ... a long story.
First was, bareknuckle prizefighting in Oz way back when, my opponents
tooth broke off in my hand and, being in the tropics, became infected
quicker than you can say it ... an even longer story.
Third is ongoing ... stuck the tip of my ring finger on my left hand
into the impeller of a leafblower last week ... to the bone. SOB does
that thing still hurt.
... long enough now to make me want to reorder the above list, at
least for the moment.
Heal fast, Bubba!
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On 11/21/2012 8:44 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/21/2012 5:02 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>
>> So this time I was there (different dog) and jumped right in after the
>> attack.
>
> In my case I had showed up at our farm with my dog, a big Shepherd, in
> the back of my truck, not knowing my Dad's dog was out (he was gentle
> with people and kids, but would kill any another animal in a heartbeat,
> so he rarely was let loose on the farm).
>
> There were other visitors, including a family with a toddler around 3
> years old.
>
> My dog jumped out of the the truck, Dad's dog attacked immediately.
>
> They met right next to the toddler, who immediately ended up underneath
> both dogs locked in mortal combat. I jumped in, grabbed my dog by the
> scruff of the neck and started dragging them both, locked together by
> jaws, away from the baby, and just as I did, Dad's dog, in an attempt to
> get a better death grip on my dog's throat, grabbed my hand instead.
>
> Managed to pull both dogs away the kid, but it took another five minutes
> to get my hand out of that dog's mouth ... he bit me on the other damned
> hand while I was trying ... we literally had to pry open his teeth with
> a stick to make him let go and get my hand out.
>
> He had bitten completely through my hand in two places, from both sides,
> all the way from the back to the palm.
>
> I sympathize with anyone bitten by an animal. Took about three months to
> heal properly (I was just out of the service with a brand new baby girl
> myself, so I was back shoeing horses about two weeks later ... had to,
> with a new baby of my own to feed). ;)
>
>> Just out of curiosity... what did you have your finger into the impeller
>> for? You're a smart guy, this had to have been a freak issue?
>
> Yeah, real smart! The shop dummy was cleaning out the shop last
> Wednesday with an old leaf blower that was missing the guard over the
> impeller, bumped the lumber rack, leaf blower slipped, he adjusted his
> grip toward the other hand, just like that dog did ... and you know the
> rest. :(
>
> Stupid is as stupid does.
>
Doh... sorry to hear that. It sucks when you don't have all your digits
working for you. It seems as though when you are getting near healing
you will start to ignore it... then we will do something dumb and bang
it on something and set yourself back a few days...
A little hardware cloth over the impeller will be a usable new guard..
just screw it through the housing with washers...
As for the finger no more Swingy... now just stumpy.
Sheperd's are great dogs. What kind of dog (aside from not friendly to
other dogs) was your dads?
Have a Happy Thanksgiving, it will give you an extra day to heal and not
be in the shop injuring stumpy. Let someone else carve the Turkey.
On 11/20/2012 4:57 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the piece
> folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottomed
> push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of the
> blade and should be where his hand is.
I prefer putting the fence in front of the blade. This is my setup for
cove molding on the table saw:
http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab14.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab15.jpg
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On 11/21/2012 5:02 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> So this time I was there (different dog) and jumped right in after the
> attack.
In my case I had showed up at our farm with my dog, a big Shepherd, in
the back of my truck, not knowing my Dad's dog was out (he was gentle
with people and kids, but would kill any another animal in a heartbeat,
so he rarely was let loose on the farm).
There were other visitors, including a family with a toddler around 3
years old.
My dog jumped out of the the truck, Dad's dog attacked immediately.
They met right next to the toddler, who immediately ended up underneath
both dogs locked in mortal combat. I jumped in, grabbed my dog by the
scruff of the neck and started dragging them both, locked together by
jaws, away from the baby, and just as I did, Dad's dog, in an attempt to
get a better death grip on my dog's throat, grabbed my hand instead.
Managed to pull both dogs away the kid, but it took another five minutes
to get my hand out of that dog's mouth ... he bit me on the other damned
hand while I was trying ... we literally had to pry open his teeth with
a stick to make him let go and get my hand out.
He had bitten completely through my hand in two places, from both sides,
all the way from the back to the palm.
I sympathize with anyone bitten by an animal. Took about three months to
heal properly (I was just out of the service with a brand new baby girl
myself, so I was back shoeing horses about two weeks later ... had to,
with a new baby of my own to feed). ;)
> Just out of curiosity... what did you have your finger into the impeller
> for? You're a smart guy, this had to have been a freak issue?
Yeah, real smart! The shop dummy was cleaning out the shop last
Wednesday with an old leaf blower that was missing the guard over the
impeller, bumped the lumber rack, leaf blower slipped, he adjusted his
grip toward the other hand, just like that dog did ... and you know the
rest. :(
Stupid is as stupid does.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On Nov 21, 12:35=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/20/12 11:31 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Nov 20, 10:19 pm, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Swingman wrote:
> >>> On 11/20/2012 4:57 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>
> >>>> Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the pie=
ce
> >>>> folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottome=
d
> >>>> push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of th=
e
> >>>> blade and should be where his hand is.
>
> >>> I prefer putting the fence in front of the blade. This is my setup fo=
r
> >>> cove molding on the table saw:
>
> >>>http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab14.jpg
>
> >>>http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab15.jpg
>
> >> Just curious, would you try to cut a long piece of crown like that?
>
> > Screw a length of 1 x 12 to the bottom of the fence
> > to support the crown past the saw table.
>
> You just support it like you would any other long piece of wood for any
> other cut.
> If you can configure some hold-downs, go for it, but it's not that
> necessary.
They're helpful for accuracy, since you're working over the
heel of blade, which wants to lift the cove. Saves you from
having to make extra passes. Nothing fancy, just a short
bit of 1x tacked down to the rear block, if the block and
workpiece are the same thickness.
> It not much different than cutting dadoes other than the angle and
> having the fence in front helps with that. Speaking of dadoes, I used
> dado blades to cut mine.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Nov 20, 10:19=A0pm, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
> > On 11/20/2012 4:57 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>
> >> Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the piece
> >> folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottomed
> >> push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of the
> >> blade and should be where his hand is.
>
> > I prefer putting the fence in front of the blade. This is my setup for
> > cove molding on the table saw:
>
> >http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab14.jpg
>
> >http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab15.jpg
>
> Just curious, would you try to cut a long piece of crown like that?
Screw a length of 1 x 12 to the bottom of the fence
to support the crown past the saw table.
On 11/22/2012 9:04 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> >By the way I don't really like what he is doing with his left hand,
>> >either. If he gets kickback somehow, there's no telling where that
>> >hand is going to end up.
>> >
>> >I have a guide stick idea I got from a Jim Tolpin book, where the
>> >business end of the stick widens out and is a 4" wide (+/-)
>> >featherboard. And the featherboard has a v-shaped edge on it that will
>> >rest on top and on the side of a board edge. I will routinely use that
>> >instead of a hand when a piece needs to be guided on the far end of
>> >the cut.
Oh you can..
If for some reason the piece comes up a little and then a tooth grabs it
wrong, it can move..
On 11/21/2012 5:47 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/21/2012 4:30 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>
>
>> BTW recovering from a dog bite (tried saving my dog from an attack), if
>> the bite is like a jointer or tablesaw accident, Then I recommend you
>> are better safe than sorry.
>
> Ouch ... the 2nd most painful injury I ever had was a dog bite. My Dad's
> Staffordhire Bull Terrier (aka pit bull), bit completely through my left
> hand ... a long story.
>
> First was, bareknuckle prizefighting in Oz way back when, my opponents
> tooth broke off in my hand and, being in the tropics, became infected
> quicker than you can say it ... an even longer story.
>
> Third is ongoing ... stuck the tip of my ring finger on my left hand
> into the impeller of a leafblower last week ... to the bone. SOB does
> that thing still hurt.
>
> ... long enough now to make me want to reorder the above list, at
> least for the moment.
>
> Heal fast, Bubba!
>
Thanks, between Sandy , a cold, the bite, work, I can't get any time in
the shop. I feel like I lost a whole month.
The wife was proud of me for taking one for the dog... I should have
kicked the other dog off instead of trying to grab him off.
My guy is 13 years old and gentle as anything. I didn't think he was
going to take another attack. The previous one a neighbors dog had his
head in his jaws and did lots of damage. That was an expensive hospital
bill.
He ripped his neck and head apart a freaking bloody mess.. I can't
imagine the pressure on his head by those jaws.
So this time I was there (different dog) and jumped right in after the
attack.
Just out of curiosity... what did you have your finger into the impeller
for? You're a smart guy, this had to have been a freak issue?
Yep, to the bone hurts, thats how deep the wounds were on both my hands.
Turns out they don't stich them up... they leave them open in case of
infection. And you have to take these Augmentin horse pills..
It occurs to me that another good to post your input is in the
comments on the page with the video.
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 17:57:45 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
wrote:
>This link was in their email.
>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/making_cove_video?et_mid=590607&rid=233687408
>
>I have a hard time with this guy. I don't think he is very safe.
>He uses a 10 to 12 inch wide board and says its hard to reach over it...
>so my method is better.
>
>I would not be using anything that wide. Maybe 4 to 5 inches.
>I put mine on both sides, but only the side closest is important
>
>Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the piece
>folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottomed
>push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of the
>blade and should be where his hand is.
>
>Flame shields on.. but this is a woodworking topic... :-)
On 11/21/2012 12:55 PM, rlz wrote:
> On Nov 21, 7:07 am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 11/20/2012 9:16 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Just curious, would you try to cut a long piece of crown like that?
>>
>> Sure ...as Mike says, just support it like you would any other long cut,
>> like outfeed roller stands, etc.
>>
>> No need to take any extraordinary steps.
>>
>> --www.eWoodShop.com
>> Last update: 4/15/2010
>> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
>
> After watching the video and reading the comments, I just want to
> remind everyone that there are many ways to skin a cat per se. As
> long as the individual is doing the task that feels comfortable and
> safe to him/her, that is what matters. Whether he uses a wide board
> or a skinny board has no bearing on the instructions, as long as it
> straight. He didn't feel comfortable reaching over the board, so he'd
> rather be safe by having it on the far side. Good for him.
Actually many that have accidents felt comfortable with the methods that
they used. So feeling safe does not equal being safe. Concerning the
wide or skinny board, it damn well better be wide enough that it will
not bend while you are feeding against it. Yes it needs to be straight
and needs to remain straight.
>
> Regarding the push stick comments. that may be the only one he has or
> its the one he has that he felt comfortable with.
Actually this is the guy that suggested several years ago to run your
boards through a jointer with our push blocks. He feels that you need
to feel what is going on with the wood while surfacing the board, so
push them through with your bare hands. I'll pass.
On 11/20/12 4:57 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>
> Flame shields on.. but this is a woodworking topic... :-)
I just wish woodworkers would realize there is no such word as heighth.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Swingman wrote:
> On 11/20/2012 4:57 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>
>> Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the piece
>> folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottomed
>> push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of the
>> blade and should be where his hand is.
>
> I prefer putting the fence in front of the blade. This is my setup for
> cove molding on the table saw:
>
> http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab14.jpg
>
> http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab15.jpg
>
Just curious, would you try to cut a long piece of crown like that?
On 11/20/12 11:31 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> On Nov 20, 10:19 pm, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Swingman wrote:
>>> On 11/20/2012 4:57 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>>
>>>> Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the piece
>>>> folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottomed
>>>> push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of the
>>>> blade and should be where his hand is.
>>
>>> I prefer putting the fence in front of the blade. This is my setup for
>>> cove molding on the table saw:
>>
>>> http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab14.jpg
>>
>>> http://e-woodshop.net/images/CornCab15.jpg
>>
>> Just curious, would you try to cut a long piece of crown like that?
>
> Screw a length of 1 x 12 to the bottom of the fence
> to support the crown past the saw table.
>
You just support it like you would any other long piece of wood for any
other cut.
If you can configure some hold-downs, go for it, but it's not that
necessary.
It not much different than cutting dadoes other than the angle and
having the fence in front helps with that. Speaking of dadoes, I used
dado blades to cut mine.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/21/12 2:02 PM, Leon wrote:
> Actually many that have accidents felt comfortable with the methods that
> they used. So feeling safe does not equal being safe.
I prefer to always feel a bit "unsafe" in my mind.... keeps me on guard
and aware of safety procedures. I don't ever want to feel perfectly safe
when running anything that can maim or kill me, know what I mean?
> Actually this is the guy that suggested several years ago to run your
> boards through a jointer with our push blocks. He feels that you need
> to feel what is going on with the wood while surfacing the board, so
> push them through with your bare hands. I'll pass.
>
Wow. How is this guy still getting paid by someone?
Reminds me of guys in here I've read saying they don't use ear
protection because they like to "hear what's going on" with the power
tools they're using.
I like to hear it, too... just 32dB quieter. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Jim Weisgram wrote:
> By the way I don't really like what he is doing with his left hand,
> either. If he gets kickback somehow, there's no telling where that
> hand is going to end up.
>
> I have a guide stick idea I got from a Jim Tolpin book, where the
> business end of the stick widens out and is a 4" wide (+/-)
> featherboard. And the featherboard has a v-shaped edge on it that will
> rest on top and on the side of a board edge. I will routinely use that
> instead of a hand when a piece needs to be guided on the far end of
> the cut.
>
Not sure how you think you could get kick back making this kind of cut.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
tiredofspam wrote:
> On 11/22/2012 9:04 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> By the way I don't really like what he is doing with his left hand,
>>>> either. If he gets kickback somehow, there's no telling where that
>>>> hand is going to end up.
>>>>
>>>> I have a guide stick idea I got from a Jim Tolpin book, where the
>>>> business end of the stick widens out and is a 4" wide (+/-)
>>>> featherboard. And the featherboard has a v-shaped edge on it that
>>>> will rest on top and on the side of a board edge. I will routinely
>>>> use that instead of a hand when a piece needs to be guided on the
>>>> far end of the cut.
> Oh you can..
> If for some reason the piece comes up a little and then a tooth grabs
> it wrong, it can move..
You did note that he was using a push stick to hold it down, and that the
wood was secured on both sides, didn't you?
BTW- I did not make the statement you attributed to me. You snipped my
comment.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 11/20/2012 9:16 PM, Bill wrote:
> Just curious, would you try to cut a long piece of crown like that?
Sure ...as Mike says, just support it like you would any other long cut,
like outfeed roller stands, etc.
No need to take any extraordinary steps.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
By the way I don't really like what he is doing with his left hand,
either. If he gets kickback somehow, there's no telling where that
hand is going to end up.
I have a guide stick idea I got from a Jim Tolpin book, where the
business end of the stick widens out and is a 4" wide (+/-)
featherboard. And the featherboard has a v-shaped edge on it that will
rest on top and on the side of a board edge. I will routinely use that
instead of a hand when a piece needs to be guided on the far end of
the cut.
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 17:57:45 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
wrote:
>This link was in their email.
>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/making_cove_video?et_mid=590607&rid=233687408
>
>I have a hard time with this guy. I don't think he is very safe.
>He uses a 10 to 12 inch wide board and says its hard to reach over it...
>so my method is better.
>
>I would not be using anything that wide. Maybe 4 to 5 inches.
>I put mine on both sides, but only the side closest is important
>
>Next I would never use a push stick like that. The danger of the piece
>folding and dropping to the blade is too great. I use a flat bottomed
>push guide. Also I think the magnetic jig is on the wrong side of the
>blade and should be where his hand is.
>
>Flame shields on.. but this is a woodworking topic... :-)
On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 19:44:51 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/21/2012 5:02 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>
>> So this time I was there (different dog) and jumped right in after the
>> attack.
>
>In my case I had showed up at our farm with my dog, a big Shepherd, in
>the back of my truck, not knowing my Dad's dog was out (he was gentle
>with people and kids, but would kill any another animal in a heartbeat,
>so he rarely was let loose on the farm).
>
>There were other visitors, including a family with a toddler around 3
>years old.
>
>My dog jumped out of the the truck, Dad's dog attacked immediately.
>
>They met right next to the toddler, who immediately ended up underneath
>both dogs locked in mortal combat. I jumped in, grabbed my dog by the
>scruff of the neck and started dragging them both, locked together by
>jaws, away from the baby, and just as I did, Dad's dog, in an attempt to
>get a better death grip on my dog's throat, grabbed my hand instead.
>
>Managed to pull both dogs away the kid, but it took another five minutes
>to get my hand out of that dog's mouth ... he bit me on the other damned
>hand while I was trying ... we literally had to pry open his teeth with
>a stick to make him let go and get my hand out.
>
>He had bitten completely through my hand in two places, from both sides,
>all the way from the back to the palm.
>
>I sympathize with anyone bitten by an animal. Took about three months to
>heal properly (I was just out of the service with a brand new baby girl
>myself, so I was back shoeing horses about two weeks later ... had to,
>with a new baby of my own to feed). ;)
>
>> Just out of curiosity... what did you have your finger into the impeller
>> for? You're a smart guy, this had to have been a freak issue?
>
>Yeah, real smart! The shop dummy was cleaning out the shop last
>Wednesday with an old leaf blower that was missing the guard over the
>impeller, bumped the lumber rack, leaf blower slipped, he adjusted his
>grip toward the other hand, just like that dog did ... and you know the
>rest. :(
>
>Stupid is as stupid does.
Been there, years back I had a Malamute, one day going by the
neighbors she ended up in a tussle with a shepard, doberman and yes a
springer spaniel. 3 on 1 didn't seem fair. Springer spaniel was
entertainment he latched onto the hair on the Mals ass and held on as
they went in circles with no feet on the ground. My first mistake was
a bare knuckle swing on the shepards mouth, damn that hurt. Next drop
kicked the Doby in the nuts, didn't faze him but hurt my ankle, then
the neighbors wife turned the hose on all of us. They still give me a
bad time about fighting with the dogs. But we were the only ones that
didn't need treatment. That was a great dog.
Mike M
On 11/21/2012 12:55 PM, rlz wrote:
> After watching the video and reading the comments, I just want to
> remind everyone that there are many ways to skin a cat per se.
I'm sure that most of us, obviously after watching the video and reading
the comments, obviously thank you from the bottom of our hearts for
taking your obviously valuable time to point that out, obviously. :)
BTW, that begs the obvious question ... which end of the cat has the
"per se"? ;)
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Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On 11/21/2012 1:34 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:
> What kind of blade for this? Rip, crosscut, combo?
>
combo works fine.
No matter what you will still have to use some scrapers to clean it up.
CMT sells a special blade (not necessary) but might be smoother.. no
experience.
As he shows its not hard to do.
You can vary the curve by tilting the blade too. Need a right tilt saw
for that. or feed from the other direction on a left tilt (awkward)