Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run in
reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
Took me more than a year on and off, waiting for parts or encounter problems. I
am not an electrician. Replaced switch enclosure but retains original Rockwell
Deltaâs switch. All electrical cable from a power source to motor is new.
Need help can't wait to make saw dusts. Where to start checking? I know
switching wires will not reverse direction, but did try anyway. Most likely
mixed up wire's connections in switch or motor (marked wires before replaced).
Thanks
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 18:14:43 +0000, side job scooter wrote:
> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 13:46:57 +0000, Doug Miller wrote:
>
>> side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote:
>>> Replace the start capacitor. Take the old one up to Grainger's and
>>> they can match up a new one.
>>
>> Nonsense. This has nothing to do with the problem.
> Wrong. This can often be the cause.
>>
>>>Of course, if you changed something in the motor
>>> wiring, then you will need to put things back as they should be.
>>
>> *That* is the problem: he's reversed something in the internal motor
>> connections.
>>
>>>If this is a three phase machine, swap 2 phases.
Meant to type 3-phase not # phase.
>>
>> It's not. (If it were, it wouldn't be 220V.)
> # phase 220 is very common.
>>> Good luck,
>>>
>>> Scott.
>>>
>>>> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer
>>>> run in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
> Tanks for playing along at home.
>
> Scott.
On 6/4/2014 5:17 AM, Sonny wrote:
> On Wednesday, June 4, 2014 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, WD wrote:
>> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>
> Are you using Australian electricity?
>
>> Gordon Shumway 7/1/10
>
> I'll do my best to simplify the answer.
>
Dang! Wish I'd said that.
On Thu, 05 Jun 2014 19:32:32 GMT, side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote:
>Excellent! Glad you got it fixed. dpb take a bow.
>
>Scott.
Yes, he deserve more than a bow. Anyone including you willing to help or
contribute however small deserve a bow.
Thank you :-)
WD wrote:
> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer
> run in
> reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>
> Took me more than a year on and off, waiting for parts or encounter
> problems. I
> am not an electrician. Replaced switch enclosure but retains
> original Rockwell
> Delta's switch. All electrical cable from a power source to motor
> is new.
<snip>
--------------------------------------------------------------
As others have mentioned, the motor leads are incorrectly connected
to the 240VAC source.
The T5 and T8 leads are the problem.
The motor nameplate will have connection diagrams for 120V and 240V
power as well as CW or CCW rotation.
You also may find the connection diagrams inside the motor junction
box.
Have fun.
BTW, patience is a virtue when dealing with all things electrical.
Lew
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On Wednesday, June 4, 2014 7:47:55 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> On 6/4/2014 7:17 AM, Sonny wrote:
> > I'll do my best to simplify the answer.
>
> I don't care who you are, that there was funny!
>
Gordon Shumway posted that back in 7-1-10, in a thread discussing some electrical issues. I tried to copy & paste it, to here, and the credit or quote marks, >, didn't transfer, except for the one by Gordon's name.
Sonny
On Fri, 06 Jun 2014 02:34:27 +0000, Doug Miller wrote:
> side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Thu, 05 Jun 2014 11:32:07 -0700, WD wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 12:46:43 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>> <snip for brevity>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Now, on the assumption that the motor is recent-enough to have a
>>>>conventional set of terminal numbering, the procedure is to swap leads
>>>>to the terminals T5 and either T6 or T8. If it is a dual-voltage
>>>>motor as I would presume, then T6 and T7 will be jumpered together to
>>>>connect the two internal start windings in series for the high voltage
>>>>operation so T8 will be swapped for T5 leaving T6/T7 jumpered.
>>>>
>>>>If the numbering system isn't consistent with that, then you probably
>>>>need the motor shop or a buddy. I looked at an old manual at the
>>>>owwm.org site; it has no info on the motor itself in it,
>>>>unfortunately.
>>>
>>> Update.
>>>
>>> dpb, Took the motor out from jointer to see better. The motor is
>>> reversible - CCW and CW (very small print). Follow instruct from
>>> nameplate. Interchange T5 with T8 lead for CW rotation.
>>>
>>> Thanks dpb, didn't spend a cents, more than happy to buy you a case of
>>> beer, I'm a Teetotaler. :-)
>>
>> Excellent! Glad you got it fixed. dpb take a bow.
>>
>> Scott.
>
> Told ya it wasn't the starting capacitor...
Good call! Take a bow. You have a right to be proud.
Take care,
Scott.
On Thu, 05 Jun 2014 13:47:42 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
Just tested it and purrrrr like a kitten. Excellent!!
Do you mind hanging around a bit longer?
Presently rebuilding a 1941 Craftsman bench DP model 101.03662, by Atlas. Broke
the spindleâs pulley, while rebuilding it. Unable to find a replacement pulley.
Last resort drove over 50 miles to a machine shop for machined "stub" replacing
broken piece on the pulley. The "stub" bore 5/8" and two keyway (instead of 9
spines bore) for spindle shaft slides up and down. It's still not ready. If
everything turns out as planned, will silver braze stub replacing broken piece
and two 1/4" keyways.
To view (almost) an exact pulley see Ebay below and identical drill press.
However, Ebay seller did not replied bore sizes and did not buy. Do you know
where to buy a replacement pulley? Original is better than the silver brazed
"stub".
Presently using a 1940 Turner Walker 15" bench drill press and will replace with
Craftsman (Atlas) DP. Like Atlas more than Turner Walker. This is my 4th vintage
DP sold my vintage Atlas before we walked out from the house and loss
everything.
Ebay Pulley
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221445233881?item=221445233881&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466
1942 Atlas Drill press.
http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=12223.0
>
>> Thanks dpb, didn't spend a cents, more than happy to buy you a case of beer, I'm
>> a Teetotaler. :-)
>
>Well, "whenever" is good enough--we'll meet wherever you suggest? :)
Wherever in Central Valley is about 120 miles from SFO?
Thanks and warmest regards
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 11:40:53 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>Are you _sure_ there are no markings on the motor? That's most unusual...
Forgotten to add, like to rewire again from motor to start switch and cable to
power point. I'll know more after removing the motor from the jointer. I'm not
young slow and take my time. Thanks. :-)
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 12:46:43 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip for brevity>
>
>Now, on the assumption that the motor is recent-enough to have a
>conventional set of terminal numbering, the procedure is to swap leads
>to the terminals T5 and either T6 or T8. If it is a dual-voltage motor
>as I would presume, then T6 and T7 will be jumpered together to connect
>the two internal start windings in series for the high voltage operation
>so T8 will be swapped for T5 leaving T6/T7 jumpered.
>
>If the numbering system isn't consistent with that, then you probably
>need the motor shop or a buddy. I looked at an old manual at the
>owwm.org site; it has no info on the motor itself in it, unfortunately.
Update.
dpb, Took the motor out from jointer to see better. The motor is reversible -
CCW and CW (very small print). Follow instruct from nameplate. Interchange T5
with T8 lead for CW rotation.
Thanks dpb, didn't spend a cents, more than happy to buy you a case of beer, I'm
a Teetotaler. :-)
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 19:45:09 +0000, Doug Miller wrote:
> side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>> It's not. (If it were, it wouldn't be 220V.)
>> # phase 220 is very common.
>
> Oh, really? Where?
Three phase 220 is very common in the US. I have a 5HP three phase motor
out in my garage right now that can be connected 220 or 440.
Nice talking to ya,
Scott.
On 6/4/2014 8:17 AM, Sonny wrote:
> On Wednesday, June 4, 2014 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, WD wrote:
>> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>
> Are you using Australian electricity?
>
>> Gordon Shumway 7/1/10
>
> I'll do my best to simplify the answer.
>
>
> I think its time for me to explain about 240 current and why it is so
> different from 120 volt service. First of all, it's twice as big.
> Secondly, it'll shock you more. Outside of that, 240 is really two
> 120 volt lines coming to your house from different parts of the globe.
> The up and down 120 comes from the northern hemisphere, and the down
> and up version comes from below the equator.
>
> Without trying to get technical, it all boils down to the direction
> water flows when it goes down the drain. In the top of the earth, it
> goes clockwise, while on the bottom of the earth it goes counter
> clockwise. Since most electricity is made from hydro dams, the
> clockwise flow gives you an up and down sine wave, while the
> counterclockwise version gives you a down and up sine wave. Between
> the two, you have 240 volts, while either individual side only gives
> you 120 volts.
>
> This is particularly important to know when buying power tools --
> which side of the globe did they come from? If you get an Australian
> saw, for instance, it will turn backwards if connected to a US
> generated 120 volt source. Sure, you can buy backwards blades for it,
> but that is an unnecessary burden. Other appliances, like toasters
> cannot be converted from Australian electricity to American
> electricity. I knew one person who bought an Australian toaster by
> mistake and it froze the slices of bread she put in it.
>
> If you wire your shop with 240 and accidentally get two US-generated
> 120 volt lines run in by accident, you can get 240 by using a trick I
> learned from an old electrician. Just put each source into its own
> fuse box and then turn one of the boxes upside down. That'll invert
> one of the two up and down sine waves to down and up, giving you 240.
> DO NOT just turn the box sideways, since that'll give you 165 volts
> and you'll be limited to just using Canadian tools with it.
>
Damn, they should have taught is that in school. Thanks for the great
explanation. Now I have a better understanding of why my computer files
get lost in the electronic maze. I now will turn my monitor upside down
when saving them.
side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote:
> Replace the start capacitor. Take the old one up to Grainger's and they
> can match up a new one.
Nonsense. This has nothing to do with the problem.
>Of course, if you changed something in the motor
> wiring, then you will need to put things back as they should be.
*That* is the problem: he's reversed something in the internal motor connections.
>If this is a three phase machine, swap 2 phases.
It's not. (If it were, it wouldn't be 220V.)
> Good luck,
>
> Scott.
>
>> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run
>> in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>>
>
side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 13:46:57 +0000, Doug Miller wrote:
>
>> side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote:
>>> Replace the start capacitor. Take the old one up to Grainger's and they
>>> can match up a new one.
>>
>> Nonsense. This has nothing to do with the problem.
> Wrong. This can often be the cause.
Of making the motor run backward??
No, it's not.
>>
>>>Of course, if you changed something in the motor
>>> wiring, then you will need to put things back as they should be.
>>
>> *That* is the problem: he's reversed something in the internal motor
>> connections.
>>
>>>If this is a three phase machine, swap 2 phases.
>>
>> It's not. (If it were, it wouldn't be 220V.)
> # phase 220 is very common.
Oh, really? Where?
side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On Thu, 05 Jun 2014 11:32:07 -0700, WD wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 12:46:43 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> <snip for brevity>
>>
>>
>>>Now, on the assumption that the motor is recent-enough to have a
>>>conventional set of terminal numbering, the procedure is to swap leads
>>>to the terminals T5 and either T6 or T8. If it is a dual-voltage motor
>>>as I would presume, then T6 and T7 will be jumpered together to connect
>>>the two internal start windings in series for the high voltage operation
>>>so T8 will be swapped for T5 leaving T6/T7 jumpered.
>>>
>>>If the numbering system isn't consistent with that, then you probably
>>>need the motor shop or a buddy. I looked at an old manual at the
>>>owwm.org site; it has no info on the motor itself in it, unfortunately.
>>
>> Update.
>>
>> dpb, Took the motor out from jointer to see better. The motor is
>> reversible - CCW and CW (very small print). Follow instruct from
>> nameplate. Interchange T5 with T8 lead for CW rotation.
>>
>> Thanks dpb, didn't spend a cents, more than happy to buy you a case of
>> beer, I'm a Teetotaler. :-)
>
> Excellent! Glad you got it fixed. dpb take a bow.
>
> Scott.
Told ya it wasn't the starting capacitor...
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 18:14:43 GMT, side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Replace the start capacitor. Take the old one up to Grainger's and they
>>> can match up a new one.
>>>Of course, if you changed something in the motor
>>> wiring, then you will need to put things back as they should be.
>>
>> *That* is the problem: he's reversed something in the internal motor
>> connections.
>>
>>>If this is a three phase machine, swap 2 phases.
>>
>> It's not. (If it were, it wouldn't be 220V.)
># phase 220 is very common.
>>> Good luck,
You got a point there. Did not touch motor wiring.
Recall when I bought the jointer from a used tool machine reseller. Got it cheap
and said to me something wrong with "electrical". Now, meaning the "motor" run
opposite direction?
Grainger is more than 45 miles from my place in the Central Valley, CA and not
many electrical shops where I live.
Before driving anywhere, how to test capacitor and may incorrectly connect
wiring from motor to start switch and out to power?
Would still like to have pictures or diagram of "Rockwell" start switch.
On 6/4/2014 7:17 AM, Sonny wrote:
> I'll do my best to simplify the answer.
I don't care who you are, that there was funny!
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Sonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wednesday, June 4, 2014 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, WD wrote:
>> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run
>> in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>
> Are you using Australian electricity?
>
>>Gordon Shumway 7/1/10
>
> I'll do my best to simplify the answer.
>
>
> I think its time for me to explain about 240 current and why it is so
> different from 120 volt service. First of all, it's twice as big.
> Secondly, it'll shock you more. Outside of that, 240 is really two
> 120 volt lines coming to your house from different parts of the globe.
> The up and down 120 comes from the northern hemisphere, and the down
> and up version comes from below the equator.
>
> Without trying to get technical, it all boils down to the direction
> water flows when it goes down the drain. In the top of the earth, it
> goes clockwise, while on the bottom of the earth it goes counter
> clockwise. Since most electricity is made from hydro dams, the
> clockwise flow gives you an up and down sine wave, while the
> counterclockwise version gives you a down and up sine wave. Between
> the two, you have 240 volts, while either individual side only gives
> you 120 volts.
>
> This is particularly important to know when buying power tools --
> which side of the globe did they come from? If you get an Australian
> saw, for instance, it will turn backwards if connected to a US
> generated 120 volt source. Sure, you can buy backwards blades for it,
> but that is an unnecessary burden. Other appliances, like toasters
> cannot be converted from Australian electricity to American
> electricity. I knew one person who bought an Australian toaster by
> mistake and it froze the slices of bread she put in it.
>
> If you wire your shop with 240 and accidentally get two US-generated
> 120 volt lines run in by accident, you can get 240 by using a trick I
> learned from an old electrician. Just put each source into its own
> fuse box and then turn one of the boxes upside down. That'll invert
> one of the two up and down sine waves to down and up, giving you 240.
> DO NOT just turn the box sideways, since that'll give you 165 volts
> and you'll be limited to just using Canadian tools with it.
>
>
Thank you Sonny,
today is my sixty something birthday.
Best laugh I've had all day :))
Nick.
On Wed, 4 Jun 2014 13:46:57 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
<[email protected]> wrote:
>*That* is the problem: he's reversed something in the internal motor connections.
Most likely mixed up wiring in the starter switch from the motor. Yesterday
after over a year, solved throat block barâs problem and set the knives. I also
replace a longer power cord before testing the planer. The planer wired single
phase 220V, 1-1/2HP. Bought it in Nov. 2012. Could have mixed up the wiring (bad
memory, rewired 3 times).
Does anyone have links to websites for me to rewire - from motor to starter
switch and power plug? The starter switch is original âRockwellâ. Thanks for
everyone comments. :-)
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 11:40:53 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>There any number showing a starter wiring, but it isn't where there's
>going to be a problem regarding direction--that's at the motor leads.
>Of course, it's likely it's a dual-voltage motor so as well as reversing
>direction they're the connections to which winding taps are the internal
>for 240V operation as opposed to 120V.
>
>Are you _sure_ there are no markings on the motor? That's most unusual...
It's unusual alright. Start the projects over a year ago. Will take the motor
out later today and check the motor - long forgotten.
Hopefully suggestions or advices here will help resolve the problem. I'm not an
electrician and don't want to hurt myself or damage the jointer. I'm in Central
Valley, CA difficult and expensive to find an electrician. The electrician that
installed the subpanel and 220V no longer answer my phone call.
On Wednesday, June 4, 2014 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, WD wrote:
> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
Are you using Australian electricity?
>Gordon Shumway 7/1/10
I'll do my best to simplify the answer.
I think its time for me to explain about 240 current and why it is so
different from 120 volt service. First of all, it's twice as big.
Secondly, it'll shock you more. Outside of that, 240 is really two
120 volt lines coming to your house from different parts of the globe.
The up and down 120 comes from the northern hemisphere, and the down
and up version comes from below the equator.
Without trying to get technical, it all boils down to the direction
water flows when it goes down the drain. In the top of the earth, it
goes clockwise, while on the bottom of the earth it goes counter
clockwise. Since most electricity is made from hydro dams, the
clockwise flow gives you an up and down sine wave, while the
counterclockwise version gives you a down and up sine wave. Between
the two, you have 240 volts, while either individual side only gives
you 120 volts.
This is particularly important to know when buying power tools --
which side of the globe did they come from? If you get an Australian
saw, for instance, it will turn backwards if connected to a US
generated 120 volt source. Sure, you can buy backwards blades for it,
but that is an unnecessary burden. Other appliances, like toasters
cannot be converted from Australian electricity to American
electricity. I knew one person who bought an Australian toaster by
mistake and it froze the slices of bread she put in it.
If you wire your shop with 240 and accidentally get two US-generated
120 volt lines run in by accident, you can get 240 by using a trick I
learned from an old electrician. Just put each source into its own
fuse box and then turn one of the boxes upside down. That'll invert
one of the two up and down sine waves to down and up, giving you 240.
DO NOT just turn the box sideways, since that'll give you 165 volts
and you'll be limited to just using Canadian tools with it.
On Thu, 05 Jun 2014 11:32:07 -0700, WD wrote:
> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 12:46:43 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> <snip for brevity>
>
>
>>Now, on the assumption that the motor is recent-enough to have a
>>conventional set of terminal numbering, the procedure is to swap leads
>>to the terminals T5 and either T6 or T8. If it is a dual-voltage motor
>>as I would presume, then T6 and T7 will be jumpered together to connect
>>the two internal start windings in series for the high voltage operation
>>so T8 will be swapped for T5 leaving T6/T7 jumpered.
>>
>>If the numbering system isn't consistent with that, then you probably
>>need the motor shop or a buddy. I looked at an old manual at the
>>owwm.org site; it has no info on the motor itself in it, unfortunately.
>
> Update.
>
> dpb, Took the motor out from jointer to see better. The motor is
> reversible - CCW and CW (very small print). Follow instruct from
> nameplate. Interchange T5 with T8 lead for CW rotation.
>
> Thanks dpb, didn't spend a cents, more than happy to buy you a case of
> beer, I'm a Teetotaler. :-)
Excellent! Glad you got it fixed. dpb take a bow.
Scott.
On 6/4/2014 7:36 AM, woodchucker wrote:
...
> Switching the wires will switch direction.
...
> Switching the [correct two] wires will switch direction.
> Look up your wiring diagram on the internet, or if you have the manual
> better. ...
+1
There _should_ be a table on/inside the leads access cover or stamped on
nameplate or the like...
If still cornfoozed, post link to a picture of the aforementioned
diagram and the lead area and likely someone can guide...or take it to a
local motor shop and get them to straighten it out for you...
--
side job scooter wrote:
> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote:
> Replace the start capacitor.
Huh? The motor is starting...
> Take the old one up to Grainger's and
> they can match up a new one.
Of course they would love that - they love to sell new stuff. But... there
is no such indication that any new stuff is in order. Lots of good stuff
gets wasted by decisions like this.
> Of course, if you changed something in
> the motor wiring, then you will need to put things back as they
> should be. If this is a three phase machine, swap 2 phases.
> Good luck,
>
He did not indicate 3 phase at all but still - your point about wiring to
the indicated wiring is well taken.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 6/4/2014 10:54 AM, WD wrote:
> On Wed, 4 Jun 2014 13:46:57 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> *That* is the problem: he's reversed something in the internal motor connections.
>
> Most likely mixed up wiring in the starter switch from the motor. Yesterday
> after over a year, solved throat block barâs problem and set the knives. I also
> replace a longer power cord before testing the planer. The planer wired single
> phase 220V, 1-1/2HP. Bought it in Nov. 2012. Could have mixed up the wiring (bad
> memory, rewired 3 times).
>
> Does anyone have links to websites for me to rewire - from motor to starter
> switch and power plug? The starter switch is original âRockwellâ. Thanks for
> everyone comments. :-)
There any number showing a starter wiring, but it isn't where there's
going to be a problem regarding direction--that's at the motor leads.
Of course, it's likely it's a dual-voltage motor so as well as reversing
direction they're the connections to which winding taps are the internal
for 240V operation as opposed to 120V.
Are you _sure_ there are no markings on the motor? That's most unusual...
--
On 6/4/2014 11:50 AM, WD wrote:
> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 11:40:53 -0500, dpb<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> There any number showing a starter wiring, but it isn't where there's
>> going to be a problem regarding direction--that's at the motor leads.
>> Of course, it's likely it's a dual-voltage motor so as well as reversing
>> direction they're the connections to which winding taps are the internal
>> for 240V operation as opposed to 120V.
>>
>> Are you _sure_ there are no markings on the motor? That's most unusual...
>
...
> Hopefully suggestions or advices here will help resolve the problem. I'm not an
> electrician and don't want to hurt myself or damage the jointer. I'm in Central
> Valley, CA difficult and expensive to find an electrician. The electrician that
> installed the subpanel and 220V no longer answer my phone call.
Don't need/want an electrician; there's bound to be motor repair
shops--one of them is where you want to take it if can't find the data.
Again, w/o the specific motor nameplate data (mfr, model, s/n) to look
up all there is is a generic wiring diagram of how dual-voltage,
reversible motors work; the details of which terminal is which are
dependent upon the specific motor so there is no generic answer other
than the previous "put it back the way it was" :) -- which, of course,
is of no help if no longer know how that was.
But all the switch/starter does is interrupt the line between it and the
motor; it doesn't control the direction (w/ the exception of _very_ old
and rare to find and wouldn't have been on a jointer anyway reversing
starters that were occasionally found on such things as spindle shapers
altho even there since the 50s or 60s a reversing switch would be more
common in conjunction w/ a conventional start/stop).
Now, on the assumption that the motor is recent-enough to have a
conventional set of terminal numbering, the procedure is to swap leads
to the terminals T5 and either T6 or T8. If it is a dual-voltage motor
as I would presume, then T6 and T7 will be jumpered together to connect
the two internal start windings in series for the high voltage operation
so T8 will be swapped for T5 leaving T6/T7 jumpered.
If the numbering system isn't consistent with that, then you probably
need the motor shop or a buddy. I looked at an old manual at the
owwm.org site; it has no info on the motor itself in it, unfortunately.
--
Assuming this is single phase.
If you cannot locate a wiring diagram for your specific motor, try this:
remove the connection cover and take a look at the wires inside. Your motor
will have a "start" winding and a "run winding." Reversible motors are
tradionally reversed by swapping the connection to the start winding.
(Electrically speaking, swapping connections to the run winding would also
work, but often one of the run winding connections is not accessible.) Usually
the run windings, will be a larger size than the start windings. If you see
a couple terminals or wire nuts connecting to these smaller windings, swapping
them will reverse the motor direction.
I know this may be daunting for someone with no electrical experience, so
you may want to have someone more knowledgable check it or do some research
on in the web and check some pictures. Should be pretty easy to find examples
in google images.
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On 6/5/2014 1:32 PM, WD wrote:
> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 12:46:43 -0500, dpb<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> <snip for brevity>
>
>>
...
>> ... T6 and T7 will be jumpered together to connect
>> the two internal start windings in series for the high voltage operation
>> so T8 will be swapped for T5 leaving T6/T7 jumpered.
...
> Update.
>
> dpb, Took the motor out from jointer to see better. The motor is reversible -
> CCW and CW (very small print). Follow instruct from nameplate. Interchange T5
> with T8 lead for CW rotation.
Well, kewl! I don't know when the T1-T8 numbering came into vogue; I've
an old Walker-Turner shaper of unknown exact vintage but at the time of
the original Delta merger as it has a combination of pieces-parts
casting numbers--the fence casting is, in fact, identical to the one on
the small Delta 1/2" shaper of some 25-30 yr later that has a different
numbering/identification on it which was my initial hesitance...
> Thanks dpb, didn't spend a cents, more than happy to buy you a case of beer, I'm
> a Teetotaler. :-)
Well, "whenever" is good enough--we'll meet wherever you suggest? :)
--
On 6/5/2014 4:07 PM, WD wrote:
...
> ... rebuilding a 1941 Craftsman bench DP model 101.03662, by Atlas. Broke
> the spindleâs pulley, ... Unable to find a replacement pulley.
...
>
> To view (almost) an exact pulley see Ebay below and identical drill press.
> However, Ebay seller did not replied bore sizes and did not buy. Do you know
> where to buy a replacement pulley? Original is better than the silver brazed
> "stub".
...
I don't know of any other sources other than to keep looking, sorry.
I'd suggest contacting the eBay person again if it looks reasonably
close that you should be able to get a decent idea on bore by
referencing the OD on your monitor to the bore and splines with a ruler.
Should be able to tell whether it's worth pursuing or be able to
reject it if it's drastically off.
>> Well, "whenever" is good enough--we'll meet wherever you suggest? :)
>
> Wherever in Central Valley is about 120 miles from SFO?
> Thanks and warmest regards
Been almost 25 yr since been to the area -- used to make trip to Palo
Alto to EPRI offices regularly back when was still consulting and have a
cousin in Menlo Park, maybe a trip is in order??? :)
Glad to have been able to help on the motor terminals...
Are you aware of the vintagemachinery web site?
<http://vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx>
There's info there on old stuff and occasionally one may find another of
your beasties you're currently working on and there's also a buy/sell
link as well as discussion/looking for area.
--
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote:
Replace the start capacitor. Take the old one up to Grainger's and they
can match up a new one. Of course, if you changed something in the motor
wiring, then you will need to put things back as they should be. If this
is a three phase machine, swap 2 phases.
Good luck,
Scott.
> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run
> in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 13:46:57 +0000, Doug Miller wrote:
> side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote:
>> Replace the start capacitor. Take the old one up to Grainger's and they
>> can match up a new one.
>
> Nonsense. This has nothing to do with the problem.
Wrong. This can often be the cause.
>
>>Of course, if you changed something in the motor
>> wiring, then you will need to put things back as they should be.
>
> *That* is the problem: he's reversed something in the internal motor
> connections.
>
>>If this is a three phase machine, swap 2 phases.
>
> It's not. (If it were, it wouldn't be 220V.)
# phase 220 is very common.
>> Good luck,
>>
>> Scott.
>>
>>> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer
>>> run in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>>>
>>>
Tanks for playing along at home.
Scott.
I have seen a bad capacitor cause the motor to not start or spin slowly
in reverse. Does your's run slowly in reverse or start and run normally,
but in reverse? Some multi-meters can measure capacitance. A capacitor
analyzer can measure capacitance and leakage. If the start winding and
one of the run windings is swapped the motor will run in reverse. You
will need a connection diagram for the motor windings if a start and run
winding are swapped.
Scott.
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 12:04:33 -0700, WD wrote:
> On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 18:14:43 GMT, side job scooter <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>>> Replace the start capacitor. Take the old one up to Grainger's and
>>>> they can match up a new one.
>
>>>>Of course, if you changed something in the motor
>>>> wiring, then you will need to put things back as they should be.
>>>
>>> *That* is the problem: he's reversed something in the internal motor
>>> connections.
>>>
>>>>If this is a three phase machine, swap 2 phases.
>>>
>>> It's not. (If it were, it wouldn't be 220V.)
>># phase 220 is very common.
>>>> Good luck,
>
> You got a point there. Did not touch motor wiring.
>
> Recall when I bought the jointer from a used tool machine reseller. Got
> it cheap and said to me something wrong with "electrical". Now, meaning
> the "motor" run opposite direction?
>
> Grainger is more than 45 miles from my place in the Central Valley, CA
> and not many electrical shops where I live.
>
> Before driving anywhere, how to test capacitor and may incorrectly
> connect wiring from motor to start switch and out to power?
>
> Would still like to have pictures or diagram of "Rockwell" start switch.
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote:
Did you change anything inside the peckerhead (the little connection box
attached to the motor)? It is possible to make it run in reverse if you
swapped the start winding with one of the run windings. There should be a
connection diagram under the peckerhead cover.
Scott.
> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run
> in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>
> Took me more than a year on and off, waiting for parts or encounter
> problems. I am not an electrician. Replaced switch enclosure but retains
> original Rockwell Deltaâs switch. All electrical cable from a power
> source to motor is new.
>
> Need help can't wait to make saw dusts. Where to start checking? I know
> switching wires will not reverse direction, but did try anyway. Most
> likely mixed up wire's connections in switch or motor (marked wires
> before replaced).
>
> Thanks
On 6/4/2014 3:06 AM, WD wrote:
>
> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run in
> reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>
> Took me more than a year on and off, waiting for parts or encounter problems. I
> am not an electrician. Replaced switch enclosure but retains original Rockwell
> Deltaâs switch. All electrical cable from a power source to motor is new.
>
> Need help can't wait to make saw dusts. Where to start checking? I know
> switching wires will not reverse direction, but did try anyway. Most likely
> mixed up wire's connections in switch or motor (marked wires before replaced).
>
> Thanks
>
Switching the wires will switch direction.
There are 2 tabs in the motor.
I don't know your specific motor, but you have the wrong connection.
Generally a wire from the motor switches from one tab to another, and
your wire goes from one to another.
Look up your wiring diagram on the internet, or if you have the manual
better. You are connected wrong.
--
Jeff
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote:
This might help: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/698/4672.pdf
Good luck,
Scott.
> Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run
> in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
>
> Took me more than a year on and off, waiting for parts or encounter
> problems. I am not an electrician. Replaced switch enclosure but retains
> original Rockwell Deltaâs switch. All electrical cable from a power
> source to motor is new.
>
> Need help can't wait to make saw dusts. Where to start checking? I know
> switching wires will not reverse direction, but did try anyway. Most
> likely mixed up wire's connections in switch or motor (marked wires
> before replaced).
>
> Thanks
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 11:40:53 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 6/4/2014 10:54 AM, WD wrote:
>> On Wed, 4 Jun 2014 13:46:57 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>There any number showing a starter wiring, but it isn't where there's
>going to be a problem regarding direction--that's at the motor leads.
>Of course, it's likely it's a dual-voltage motor so as well as reversing
>direction they're the connections to which winding taps are the internal
>for 240V operation as opposed to 120V.
>
>Are you _sure_ there are no markings on the motor? That's most unusual...
Took the motor out and it's "Rockwell" motor. Dual voltage 220 and 110V.
My old marking still there when I replaced the cords last year.
Somehow must have got wiring mixed up, motor to starter switch. Do you have
pictures or wiring diagram connection on "Rockwell" starter switch and post it
to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking?
Thanks