On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
3" wide.
It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the 4
edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also would
use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
On Jan 29, 1:29 pm, "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
> adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
> 3" wide.
>
> It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
> necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the 4
> edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also would
> use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
>
> I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
> sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
>
> Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
I installed MDF base molding in my house and was so impressed I
thought I discovered electricity. Several months have gone by and the
stuff is starting to look crappy. Yes MDF machines easily and
produces crisp lines but it can't take a shot. The slightest bump
with something will leave a mark or a chip. Also consider the holding
power of screws in MDF, will the hinges hold in the MDF? I would go
with Poplar or similar.
I think it is great stuff where appropriate. Like all materials they
have both appropriate uses and inappropriate.
I love making templates from MDF if they will be short lived. Very
easy to shape with any type of cutter. I also like it as underlayment
when you want to add some heaft to a project. I've used it laminated
under under 3/4 ply to thicken table tops to 1-1/2" and add some
weight. It works great as a replacable bench top, dividers and back
boards in some projects, they even make entire single piece cabinet
doors from it which is fine when they do the thermal shrink coatings.
It is indenspeible as a CNC bed, etc. etc.
BW
On Jan 29, 12:40 pm, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in messagenews:[email protected]...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
> > adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
> > 3" wide.
>
> > It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
> > necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
> 4
> > edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
> would
> > use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
>
> > I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
> > sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
>
> > Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
> showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF. The
> stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows on
> TV.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected] Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -
On Jan 29, 1:29 pm, "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
Why not go to a 7/8" and rout the design , with a template, right into
the door.
There are plenty of low-cost bits just for that job. You can use a
combo of bits.
Using 7/8" will leave you lots of room for some pretty cool patterns.
Keep in mind, that you will get radius'd inside corners, but that
makes painting/sanding and cleaning afterwards alot more pleasant. You
can minimize the inside radii by making a pass with a small diameter
bit.
Sharp bits grow less hair on the end-grain, so do slow feed-rates.
Keep the bit RPM up though.
When painting, use a piss-coat of the colour you are going to use
first. That will wick in, and sets you up for a tougher edge.
Alkyd based, and lots of drying time, with careful sanding in between.
There are heavy laquer-based primers for MDF available, but you need
to spray them. In my old shop, we did several thousands of doors that
way, with great results. Especially when we glazed them with a soft
contrasting wipe afterwards.
Many of my customers MUCH preferred those types of doors over the
vinyl vacuum-formed ones.
If I was going to go through the hassle (and tons of MDF dust) to make
5-piece doors, I'd chose poplar....hands down.
..and Leon is right, don't worry about the screws when using Blum
hinges. I suggest 3 hinges there for MDF, 2 for poplar.
r
You guys must be out of touch with the real world then... All of those
"Remodeling Shows" make all of their high quality furniture out of
MDF. I can only hope to make pieces as nice as their's some day! MDF
held toghether with 18gauge brads is the only way to go if you want
TRUE "heirloom quality".
Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. :-)
> > I grudgingly have to admit "I know", but I just hate MDF and sometimes I
> > just can't keep quiet about it.I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed.
> It is definitely not for everything.
The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
of the MDF or of my router bit?
I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
krylon!
-Nathan
On Jan 30, 8:09 am, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" wrote in message
> > I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed.
> > It is definitely not for everything.As you well know, there are a ton of solid mdf interior doors being sold now
> in the building industry these days.
>
> As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
> bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?
>
> Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with the
> "raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
> appropriate profile.
>
> Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.
>
> If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
> best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 1/27/07
On Jan 30, 8:21 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
>It really is!
I use sheets of 1/2" for all my accurate templating. Undermount sink
cut-outs need to be pretty close if you plan to mate it with a
$1000.00 (+) Franke sink. They are re-usable
The cheaper under-mount sinks vary so much in size that making a
template for each installation is in many cases a must.
When undermounting in laminate tops, tolerances get real goofy. MDF
rules!
http://www.topworks.ca/counter-seal%20images/countersealshot.gif
r
On Jan 30, 9:44 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> N Hurst wrote:
> > The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
> > passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
> > of the MDF or of my router bit?
>
> > I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
> > wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
> > looked crappy.Seal the cut edge with glue size, drywall compound, or shellac before
> you sand it.
Automotive glazing putty (laquer based) is nice and quick. Cheap and
tough too. A wee bit harder to sand..but quite workable. Ready to go
in a tube.
On Jan 30, 9:36 am, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Strictly as a go by, here is their website as an
> illustration of what kind of company you would be looking for in your area:
Yup, got a couple on speed dial. I hardly ever bother making doors any
more.
I e-mail the style number and size..to the verifiable millimetre, and
wait 10 days.
I can even get them pre-finished to my exact requirement.
Most importantly, at a price which I can't even begin to touch.
I walk in with one of Caron's incredible brochures, and out come the
cheque-books.
http://www.caronind.com/
These guys have taken the 'going green' to a new level. Fabulous
people.
For a lower cost MDF-style product:
http://www.cabinetmart.com/cat-doors.html right in my back yard.
Both of these guys will ship to USA and beyond. (Shameless plugs)
r
On Jan 30, 10:02 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in messagenews:[email protected]...
>
> > The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
> > passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
> > of the MDF or of my router bit?
>
> > I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
> > wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
> > looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
> > krylon!
>
> > -Nathan
> The trick is to stabilize the " fuzzies". After cutting and or routing
> apply a primer or shellac and then lightly sand to smooth the surface.
Thanks for all the replies, everyone! Next time I need to work with
MDF I'll try out your suggestions.
-Nathan
On Jan 30, 10:02 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in messagenews:[email protected]...
>
> > The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
> > passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
> > of the MDF or of my router bit?
>
> > I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
> > wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
> > looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
> > krylon!
>
> > -Nathan
> The trick is to stabilize the " fuzzies". After cutting and or routing
> apply a primer or shellac and then lightly sand to smooth the surface.
Thanks for all the replies, everyone! Next time I need to work with
MDF I'll try out your suggestions.
-Nathan
On Jan 30, 12:18 pm, "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote:
> 2 sheet MDF = $50
> 30bdft poplar = $75
> My time = PRICELESS
>
Spend the extra $25 and get the poplar. Easy choice, IMO.
On Jan 30, 1:41 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "bf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > On Jan 30, 12:18 pm, "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> 2 sheet MDF = $50
> >> 30bdft poplar = $75
> >> My time = PRICELESS
>
> > Spend the extra $25 and get the poplar. Easy choice, IMO.
>
> Except that the yield from 2 sheets of MDF is 64 ft vs. 30 for the poplar.
> The poplar would cost in excess of $150 for the equivalent amount.
I didn't even bother to check the math.. Still, if it's a project for
me, I'd spend the extra money, although I understand the money
difference is now more significant.
It's also worth considering the health risk of MDF. Yes, I know that
can be managed with proper respitory protection, but since my shop is
in the basement, I prefer to minimize the amount of MDF and treated
wood cutting that I do down there.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
> > showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF.
> > The
> > stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows
> > on
> > TV.
>
>
> MDF is of course not as nice as solid wood but with proper prep and paint
it
> will hold up very well in this application.
>
>
I grudgingly have to admit "I know", but I just hate MDF and sometimes I
just can't keep quiet about it.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"N Hurst" wrote in message
> The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
> passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
> of the MDF or of my router bit?
>
> I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
> wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
> looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
> krylon!
Be aware that not all mdf is created equally, and certainly a top quality,
and sharp, router bit would be required.
I would look for a "mill" near you that supplies trim to the building
industry and see if they can either supply you with top quality mdf, or tell
you where they get theirs.
If you were in the Houston area, I would recommend The Detering Co, on
Washington avenue. Strictly as a go by, here is their website as an
illustration of what kind of company you would be looking for in your area:
http://www.detering.com/
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07
"N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
>> bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?
>>
>> Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with
>> the
>> "raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
>> appropriate profile.
>>
>> Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.
>>
>> If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
>> best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.
Why build them at all?
http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/
--
Dave in Houston
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "NuWaveDave" wrote in message
>
>> Why build them at all?
>> http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/
>
> Why have a shop full of tools? ;)
For "real wood" projects? ~:o)
Dave in Houston
"trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I priced the MDF doors at size (8 doors 22x42)......Holy Cr.....p!!! It
>was only $114. No way I could buy the material to make my own for that
>little. The shipping was another $60 though. Thats galling. I might
>consider replacing many more doors to get the shipping to a decent ratio
>since the shipping is fixed.
Be prepared to offload the goods out at the street or pay an exorbitant
"lift" charge and that will most likely still be curbside. I forget the
trucking outfit but the lift charge when I used Lakeside was $0.50 or
$0.57/lb. MDF is damned heavy (96 lbs. per 4 X 8 X 3/4 sheet.
--
Dave in Houston
"Oughtsix" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You guys must be out of touch with the real world then... All of those
> "Remodeling Shows" make all of their high quality furniture out of
> MDF. I can only hope to make pieces as nice as their's some day! MDF
> held toghether with 18gauge brads is the only way to go if you want
> TRUE "heirloom quality".
>
> Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. :-)
"Heirloom quality" Now there is a description that means nothing.
An Heirloom does not have to be a quality piece. An heirloom is something
that has simply been a family possession handed down from generation to
generation.
I have a 16 lb sledge hammer badly rusted and with a cracked handle that is
an heirloom.
"Oughtsix" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> MDF held toghether with 18gauge brads is the only way to
> go if you want TRUE "heirloom quality".
>
> Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. :-)
True, for some heirs. Heck, cardboard and duct tape is too good for some,
since it can't be spent anyway. ;-)
-- Mark
i dont mind
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
>> adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles
>> are
>> 3" wide.
>>
>> It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
>> necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
> 4
>> edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
> would
>> use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
>>
>> I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
>> sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
>>
>> Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
>>
>
> If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
> showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF.
> The
> stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows
> on
> TV.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
>
thats a good idea. but I dont like the look of the rounded corners.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote in message
>
>> I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have
>> agreed.
>> It is definitely not for everything.
>
> As you well know, there are a ton of solid mdf interior doors being sold
> now
> in the building industry these days.
>
> As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
> bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?
>
> Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with
> the
> "raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
> appropriate profile.
>
> Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.
>
> If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
> best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 1/27/07
>
>
good tips all. thanks!
"trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
> adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
> 3" wide.
>
> It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
> necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
> 4 edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
> would use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
>
> I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
> sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
>
> Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
>
>
>
>
its a hobby. You think Im cheap? I cant afford myself
"NuWaveDave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>> As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
>>> bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?
>>>
>>> Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with
>>> the
>>> "raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
>>> appropriate profile.
>>>
>>> Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.
>>>
>>> If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
>>> best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.
>
> Why build them at all?
> http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/
>
> --
> Dave in Houston
>
8 poplar doors = $550.
vs
2 sheet MDF = $50
30bdft poplar = $75
My time = PRICELESS
"NuWaveDave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>> As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
>>> bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?
>>>
>>> Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with
>>> the
>>> "raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
>>> appropriate profile.
>>>
>>> Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.
>>>
>>> If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
>>> best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.
>
> Why build them at all?
> http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/
>
> --
> Dave in Houston
>
I priced the MDF doors at size (8 doors 22x42)......Holy Cr.....p!!! It was
only $114. No way I could buy the material to make my own for that little.
The shipping was another $60 though. Thats galling. I might consider
replacing many more doors to get the shipping to a decent ratio since the
shipping is fixed.
"NuWaveDave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>> As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
>>> bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?
>>>
>>> Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with
>>> the
>>> "raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
>>> appropriate profile.
>>>
>>> Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.
>>>
>>> If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
>>> best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.
>
> Why build them at all?
> http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/
>
> --
> Dave in Houston
>
the MDF is for the panels and the poplar for the rails and stiles. If all
poplar its probably 150?
"bf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> On Jan 30, 12:18 pm, "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> 2 sheet MDF = $50
>> 30bdft poplar = $75
>> My time = PRICELESS
>>
>
> Spend the extra $25 and get the poplar. Easy choice, IMO.
>
>
>
good tip. Offloading on the street is fine for me.
"NuWaveDave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I priced the MDF doors at size (8 doors 22x42)......Holy Cr.....p!!! It
>>was only $114. No way I could buy the material to make my own for that
>>little. The shipping was another $60 though. Thats galling. I might
>>consider replacing many more doors to get the shipping to a decent ratio
>>since the shipping is fixed.
>
> Be prepared to offload the goods out at the street or pay an exorbitant
> "lift" charge and that will most likely still be curbside. I forget the
> trucking outfit but the lift charge when I used Lakeside was $0.50 or
> $0.57/lb. MDF is damned heavy (96 lbs. per 4 X 8 X 3/4 sheet.
> --
> Dave in Houston
>
"trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
> adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
> 3" wide.
>
> It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
> necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
> 4 edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
> would use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
>
> I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
> sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
>
> Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
I used to do a lot of that kind of work. 22mm (7/8) is much preferable
because the mdf is quite flexible. Gluing the panel is good practice.
Certainly three or even four hinges, the door will be heavy. Careful with
clearances, especially with the thicker door.
Tim w
"Leon" wrote in message
> I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed.
> It is definitely not for everything.
As you well know, there are a ton of solid mdf interior doors being sold now
in the building industry these days.
As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even
bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?
Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with the
"raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an
appropriate profile.
Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.
If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the
best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
.
>>
>>
>
> I grudgingly have to admit "I know", but I just hate MDF and sometimes I
> just can't keep quiet about it.
I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed.
It is definitely not for everything.
"RayV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> On Jan 29, 1:29 pm, "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
>> adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles
>> are
>> 3" wide.
>>
>> It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
>> necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
>> 4
>> edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
>> would
>> use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
>>
>> I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
>> sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
>>
>> Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
>
> I installed MDF base molding in my house and was so impressed I
> thought I discovered electricity. Several months have gone by and the
> stuff is starting to look crappy. Yes MDF machines easily and
> produces crisp lines but it can't take a shot. The slightest bump
> with something will leave a mark or a chip. Also consider the holding
> power of screws in MDF, will the hinges hold in the MDF? I would go
> with Poplar or similar.
Since he is using the Blum type hinges the weight of the door is not carried
by the screws. the screws simply keep the hinge from pulling out of the
35mm holes that they fit into.
>
"bf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> On Jan 30, 12:18 pm, "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> 2 sheet MDF = $50
>> 30bdft poplar = $75
>> My time = PRICELESS
>>
>
> Spend the extra $25 and get the poplar. Easy choice, IMO.
Except that the yield from 2 sheets of MDF is 64 ft vs. 30 for the poplar.
The poplar would cost in excess of $150 for the equivalent amount.
"NuWaveDave" wrote in message
>
> "Swingman" wrote in message
>
> > "NuWaveDave" wrote in message
> >
> >> Why build them at all?
> >> http://www.lakesidemoulding.com/
> >
> > Why have a shop full of tools? ;)
>
> For "real wood" projects? ~:o)
>
> Dave in Houston
Au contraire ... mdf _is_ "real wood" ... just ask Mattress Mac, or any
furniture store salesman. ;)
Thanks for that link, BTW ... I passed it on to a past customer who was in
the shop yesterday, and who, while looking to build his own doors, was
looking for me to tell/advise him how to do it.
That oughta take care of that! ;)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/27/07
That's what a big old honking CNC machine can do to a
sheet of MDF. I saw one at the IWF make 12 doors in
12 minutes.
I mean really pretty doors with a LOT of detail.
I was told that the machine was NOT running
at max speed for safety reasons in the exhibit hall.
trs80 wrote:
> I priced the MDF doors at size (8 doors 22x42)......Holy Cr.....p!!! It was
> only $114. No way I could buy the material to make my own for that little.
> The shipping was another $60 though. Thats galling. I might consider
> replacing many more doors to get the shipping to a decent ratio since the
> shipping is fixed.
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
> showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF.
> The
> stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows
> on
> TV.
MDF is of course not as nice as solid wood but with proper prep and paint it
will hold up very well in this application.
"trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
> adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
> 3" wide.
>
> It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
> necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
> 4 edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
> would use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
>
> I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
> sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
>
> Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
>
>
>
>
It will work fine. I have at the customers request on two different houses
that he has lived in used MDF for all the cabinet doors and drawers. He
spray painted them himself in his garage and they looked great.
You should however use a good quality oil based paint to help guard against
nicks so that the paint does not wick into the edges.
"trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide
> adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are
> 3" wide.
>
> It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is
> necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the
4
> edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also
would
> use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
>
> I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but
> sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
>
> Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
>
If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF. The
stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows on
TV.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
N Hurst wrote:
> The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
> passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
> of the MDF or of my router bit?
>
> I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
> wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
> looked crappy.
Seal the cut edge with glue size, drywall compound, or shellac before
you sand it.
Best template material out there.
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without
> showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF.
The
> stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows
on
> TV.
>
"N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit
> passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function
> of the MDF or of my router bit?
>
> I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I
> wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just
> looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and
> krylon!
>
> -Nathan
The trick is to stabilize the " fuzzies". After cutting and or routing
apply a primer or shellac and then lightly sand to smooth the surface.