been working for a while now putting together my shop/studio for my stained
glass work. Most of the visible surfaces are pine... and as i was planing
on painting the stuctures i was somewhat indiscriminate with my usage of
screws ... now i find i quite like the look of the natural wood ands would
prefer to merely poly it. possibly stain as well. question being, what
would be the most appropriate product i can buy off the shelf to fill in
over those screw headsthat'll blend in to the pine?
minwax has a filler product that is stainable etc... but I'm thinking i want
the natural pine look. and it has to be able to cover areas larger than a
finishing nail head.
suggestions?
Mon, Nov 17, 2003, 11:32pm [email protected] (Chris=A0Gibson) wants:
<snip> suggestions?
I kinda like putting some of whatever finish on, then sanding, to
make your own filler.
JOAT
Of course I don't think you're a complete idiot. Some parts are
missing.
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 15 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
<snip>
> Somebody else suggested plugs. While they rarely blend in well, they
> somehow look more professional.
>
If you can't get them to blend well, you're not spending enough time
with them. Save the scraps and cut the plugs from them. As long as
you're using a tapered plug cutter and aligning the grain, they will
virtually disappear.
Here is another approach:
Go an buy yourself a plug cutter. (get the kind that cuts a tapered
plug..$10-$15 at WW Warehouse. Cylinderical plugs give a sloppy fit, tapered
fits like a cork). Remove each screw one at a time... redrill the screw hole
to the plug size and about 3/8" deep, reinsert screw and glue in the plug.
Trim the plug flush with a sharp chisel. Trimming across the (plug's) grain
rather than with it will reduce the chance of tearout.
It will look MUCH nicer than wood filler. You can use a contrasting wood, or
turn the grain of the plug 90 degrees to the work piece if you want to
highlight the plug rather than camouflage it.
"Chris Gibson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> been working for a while now putting together my shop/studio for my
stained
> glass work. Most of the visible surfaces are pine... and as i was
planing
> on painting the stuctures i was somewhat indiscriminate with my usage of
> screws ... now i find i quite like the look of the natural wood ands would
> prefer to merely poly it. possibly stain as well. question being, what
> would be the most appropriate product i can buy off the shelf to fill in
> over those screw headsthat'll blend in to the pine?
>
> minwax has a filler product that is stainable etc... but I'm thinking i
want
> the natural pine look. and it has to be able to cover areas larger than a
> finishing nail head.
>
> suggestions?
>
>
Personally I like the idea of contrasting plugs. I've used walnut
plugs in a pine box and like the results.
On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 16:47:25 GMT, "Wade Lippman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> minwax has a filler product that is stainable etc... but I'm thinking i
>want
>> the natural pine look. and it has to be able to cover areas larger than a
>> finishing nail head.
>>
>Even if you are lucky enough to get a really good color match, filler still
>looks like someone stuck a piece of chewing gum on the wood. If you don't
>get a good color match, it looks even worse.
>
>Somebody else suggested plugs. While they rarely blend in well, they
>somehow look more professional.
>
> minwax has a filler product that is stainable etc... but I'm thinking i
want
> the natural pine look. and it has to be able to cover areas larger than a
> finishing nail head.
>
Even if you are lucky enough to get a really good color match, filler still
looks like someone stuck a piece of chewing gum on the wood. If you don't
get a good color match, it looks even worse.
Somebody else suggested plugs. While they rarely blend in well, they
somehow look more professional.