So 'fess up. Among those of you who have paid any attention to my
slow-motion project, how many secretly knew that it would prove to be a
chore to finish?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/13973492620/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
(I'm building two of them)
I spent most of the weekend applying gel stain to the various parts. To
be fair, the first several hours were devoted to prep; vacuuming the
shop and the work, arranging places to put the parts while they dry,
etc. Oh, and re-sanding some little imperfections I hadn't noticed
before. Damn that raking light.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15801761882/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
But I must have spent close to eight hours applying the stain, and
wiping off the excess, of course. The "ladder" sides, which I
pre-assembled, took the longest time, specifically all the little inside
corners.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15806347875/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15776530506/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
(don't worry, I'll be replacing those dowels)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15614782878/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15620945358/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15186888523/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
I had made some test pieces using General Finishes Gel Varnish as a
topcoat, with good results. But now I'm rethinking it. I'm wondering if
I should use something that won't require so much laborious removing of
"excess" product. I'd like a satin low-buildup "adult" finish. Thoughts?
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 07:19:54 -0500, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>But I must have spent close to eight hours applying the stain, and
>wiping off the excess, of course. The "ladder" sides, which I
>pre-assembled, took the longest time, specifically all the little inside
>corners.
Eight farkin' hours?! After about an hour of staining I ready to throw
what's left of the damn can of stain at what hasn't been done and call
it quits! ;-)
Seriously, if I add up the time sanding, cleaning, re-sanding,
re-cleaning, taping off surfaces that will be glued at assembly,
staining, applying poly, sanding, more poly, more sanding, even more
poly and taping surfaces adjacent to glue joints to prevent
squeeze-out contamination on even a small project eight hours is far
from excessive. Tedious, yes, but not excessive.
So far what you've done looks real good.
On Monday, November 17, 2014 6:19:45 AM UTC-6, Greg Guarino wrote:
> So 'fess up. Among those of you who have paid any attention to my=20
> slow-motion project, how many secretly knew that it would prove to be a=
=20
> chore to finish?
=20
Not necessarily a chore, but time consuming and patience, if you want to do=
a good job. The more projects you do, the easier the procedures become. =
Simply concentrating and doing one procedure at a time and, before you know=
it, the whole is complete.
Resanding? I think for everyone, the more you look at the project, you'll=
always find something that needs more sanding. There comes a time you hav=
e to draw the line and stop, but you want it to be right. Satisfy yourself=
, not someone else. I find, if I am pleased, usually everyone else will be=
agreeable.
It looks great. Consistent color shade throughout the project. It pays to=
pay attention to all those kinds of details.
Sonny
On 11/17/2014 7:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> So 'fess up. Among those of you who have paid any attention to my
> slow-motion project, how many secretly knew that it would prove to be a
> chore to finish?
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/13973492620/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> (I'm building two of them)
>
> I spent most of the weekend applying gel stain to the various parts. To
> be fair, the first several hours were devoted to prep; vacuuming the
> shop and the work, arranging places to put the parts while they dry,
> etc. Oh, and re-sanding some little imperfections I hadn't noticed
> before. Damn that raking light.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15801761882/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> But I must have spent close to eight hours applying the stain, and
> wiping off the excess, of course. The "ladder" sides, which I
> pre-assembled, took the longest time, specifically all the little inside
> corners.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15806347875/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15776530506/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> (don't worry, I'll be replacing those dowels)
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15614782878/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15620945358/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15186888523/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> I had made some test pieces using General Finishes Gel Varnish as a
> topcoat, with good results. But now I'm rethinking it. I'm wondering if
> I should use something that won't require so much laborious removing of
> "excess" product. I'd like a satin low-buildup "adult" finish. Thoughts?
>
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
Good job Greg, and that's not a lot of time.
If you want to go faster, then spray on woods that are not splotchy.
Oak is one of those woods that you can get away with a lot.
Maple, pine, you have to work hard on. Gel, or prefinish with a wash of
shellac.
Yes you can spray stain or dye.. You just have to know that less is
better, and build it up, and you build stain while it's wet, and dye
when it is dry.
Barring a spray rig, put some good music on, and enjoy. it looks like
you will have a very nice outcome.
--
Jeff
On 11/17/2014 6:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> So 'fess up. Among those of you who have paid any attention to my
> slow-motion project, how many secretly knew that it would prove to be a
> chore to finish?
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/13973492620/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> (I'm building two of them)
>
> I spent most of the weekend applying gel stain to the various parts. To
> be fair, the first several hours were devoted to prep; vacuuming the
> shop and the work, arranging places to put the parts while they dry,
> etc. Oh, and re-sanding some little imperfections I hadn't noticed
> before. Damn that raking light.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15801761882/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> But I must have spent close to eight hours applying the stain, and
> wiping off the excess, of course. The "ladder" sides, which I
> pre-assembled, took the longest time, specifically all the little inside
> corners.
8 hours? AND I thought I was anal. ;~) Use a q-tip to apply to the
tight corners and this is probably where you should have prefinished
before getting to this point.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15806347875/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15776530506/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> (don't worry, I'll be replacing those dowels)
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15614782878/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15620945358/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15186888523/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> I had made some test pieces using General Finishes Gel Varnish as a
> topcoat, with good results. But now I'm rethinking it. I'm wondering if
> I should use something that won't require so much laborious removing of
> "excess" product. I'd like a satin low-buildup "adult" finish. Thoughts?
If you are serious about it being a lot of trouble removing excess
product, you are probably waiting way too long to remove it. With the
gel stains/varnishes wipe it on in a square foot area and immediately
wipe it off and move on. Let dry over night and if not dark enough add
another coat. The gel stain should not be drying at all before you wipe
it off.
With the gel varnishes, they should be dry enough after 5~10 minutes for
you to handle with out it feeling very tacky.
For some reason, and I have use this brand varnish about 3 times in the
past, I don't like General Finishes Gel Varnish.
Until the light came on in my head and I actually quit reading too much
into the directions I was so so about Old Masters Gel Gel Varnish. Now
I love it. But if you are happy with General Finishes Gel Varnish,
great. I am 50/50 with General Finishes gel Stains. 4 years ago I
used a java GFGS and the product would not stay. If there was any
overlap, the stain came off. This past summer I used GFGS Georgian
Cherry on Mahogany and it was GREAT!
>
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
dadiOH <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>
>> So 'fess up. Among those of you who have paid any
>> attention to my
>> slow-motion project, how many secretly knew that it would
>> prove to
>> be a chore to finish?
>
> Personally, I rather like finishing...it is when all the
> donkey work
> comes together and you have something pretty.
>
>> But I must have spent close to eight hours applying the
>> stain, and
>> wiping off the excess, of course. The "ladder" sides,
>> which I
>> pre-assembled, took the longest time, specifically all
>> the little
>> inside corners.
>
> Eight hours? Double gasp!! If I spent more than an hour
> doing the
> lot I would be pulling my hair.
>
>> I had made some test pieces using General Finishes Gel
>> Varnish as a
>> topcoat, with good results. But now I'm rethinking it.
>> I'm wondering
>> if I should use something that won't require so much
>> laborious
>> removing of "excess" product. I'd like a satin
>> low-buildup "adult"
>> finish. Thoughts?
>
> Lacquer. Nitro celluose lacquer. That is what is used on
> virtually
> all commercial wood furniture. Best applied via spray but
> I don't
> have spray equipment so I use Deft's Clear Wood Finish,
> semi-gloss,
> which is basically lacquer meant for brushing. It is easy
> to apply,
> easy to sand, easy to get a decent looking and durable
> finish. If I
> want less shine, 0000 steel wool does the trick.
>
> One normally applies 3-4 coats but it dries quickly and
> all coats can
> be applied in a day. After the last coat, it will look
> awful...uneven in thickness, maybe a minor run, etc. Wait
> a week. After a week all the solvent has evaporated and
> the lacquer has
> shrunk down tighter and smaller than a banker's heart.
+1 on the lacquer, except I would use a heavy bodied sanding
sealer to help fill in the open grain of the oak.
I think lacquers are by far the easiest finish to apply and
the most forgiving. It's the only finish I use.
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> So 'fess up. Among those of you who have paid any attention to my
> slow-motion project, how many secretly knew that it would prove to be a
> chore to finish?
Personally, I rather like finishing...it is when all the donkey work comes
together and you have something pretty.
> But I must have spent close to eight hours applying the stain, and
> wiping off the excess, of course. The "ladder" sides, which I
> pre-assembled, took the longest time, specifically all the little inside
> corners.
Eight hours? Double gasp!! If I spent more than an hour doing the lot I
would be pulling my hair.
> I had made some test pieces using General Finishes Gel Varnish as a
> topcoat, with good results. But now I'm rethinking it. I'm wondering if
> I should use something that won't require so much laborious removing of
> "excess" product. I'd like a satin low-buildup "adult" finish. Thoughts?
Lacquer. Nitro celluose lacquer. That is what is used on virtually all
commercial wood furniture. Best applied via spray but I don't have spray
equipment so I use Deft's Clear Wood Finish, semi-gloss, which is
basically lacquer meant for brushing. It is easy to apply, easy to sand,
easy to get a decent looking and durable finish. If I want less shine,
0000 steel wool does the trick.
One normally applies 3-4 coats but it dries quickly and all coats can be
applied in a day. After the last coat, it will look awful...uneven in
thickness, maybe a minor run, etc. Wait a week. After a week all the
solvent has evaporated and the lacquer has shrunk down tighter and smaller
than a banker's heart.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net