Ping Casper

On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 9:43:52 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

> All edges of the siding are bevel cut.

Check that: All top and bottom edges are bevel cut. The side edges are NOT bevel cut.

Sonny

>> I'm away from home at the moment.
>>Last Friday, I forgot to take pics, then went to the farm for the weekend, so just now posting those promised pics.
No problem.

>First off, before installing the siding panels (T1-11), I primed and painted one coat of paint. Once installed, I apply a second coat of paint to the exterior.
>
>For my shop: Reference to the garage/gable end, on a slab. The rest of the shop is on pillars - https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/4733388243/in/dateposted-public/ .
>
>From bottom to top: There is a lower skirting (about 25" high), a drip edge, a full sheet of T1-11, a drip edge, then (above that) the upper siding. There is felt against the studs; Against the wall, along the slab, there is 8" or 12" flashing (I don't recall what width), installed exterior of the felt/studs and runs down the slab's side/edge at least an inch, maybe 2". If there is any moisture wicking up the back of the siding, the flashing keeps the moisture away from the studs.
>
>All edges of the siding are bevel cut. The skirt's bottom edge is cut at 45 degrees and the drip edge cuts are 30 degrees. The cut edges and up the back side (of the siding) are primed and painted before installing. Caulking was applied to the appropriate edges and drip edge before installing and were re-caulked once installed.
>
>As per pics, scroll left (from the starting pic) for the successive referenced pics.
>Pic 1 shows the flashing behind the lowest edge of the (skirt) siding. The bottom edge of the corner facing is beveled, also.... *shows some lawn mower & weed eater "damage", also. It's time to repaint!
>Pic 2 shows the lowest drip edge (above the skirt).
>Pic 3 shows the upper drip edge.
>Pic 4 shows a bevel cut on a left-over piece of siding.
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/17611896796/in/dateposted-public/
>
>If you need any more pics, etc., just ask.
>Sonny

Thanks very much for all this good info. Its going to help a lot.

Plan was to do this repair this coming weekend but I've had to
postpone it. Weather guys say it is going to thunderstorm all weekend
and into Monday here.

Also I am sick as a dog and have barely slept most of this week. I've
never had my ribs and head hurt so much from coughing. Now I have a
fever and it's gone into my sinues so it's time to see a doctor.

We have company coming Memorial weekend and our 20th anniversary and
other half's birthday is the following weekend, so that books me thru
the month. With any luck, temp won't rise too much and I can get this
done the beginning of June.

I'll be sure to let you know how it goes, pics too.

Now excuse me while I go shoot myself to end this sinus misery.
`Casper

>Well, hells bells! Just never know what's ahead of us. Think positive, circumstances may present for the better in the long run.
>Sonny

Thanks. Indeed we do not. I'm living on a postive piece of wood daily
now hoping the trail gets better. Who knows, maybe the great tree of
life will share some deep secret wood knowledge with me. ;)

On Thursday, May 7, 2015 at 10:29:41 PM UTC-5, Casper wrote:

> In reading down from 5a, did you flash both the upper and lower
> siding? Or did you just caulk the new seam?

I flashed all the horizontal seams and caulked the siding's edge against the flashing, and, where applicable, caulked above and below the drip edge on the upper drip edge installations. On the link below, scroll right for 2 more pics.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/4733388243/in/photostream/

I'm away from home at the moment. I'll take detailed pics, in a few hours, and post them.

Sonny

On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 7:13:44 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
=20
> I'm away from home at the moment. =20

Last Friday, I forgot to take pics, then went to the farm for the weekend, =
so just now posting those promised pics.

First off, before installing the siding panels (T1-11), I primed and painte=
d one coat of paint. Once installed, I apply a second coat of paint to the=
exterior.

For my shop: Reference to the garage/gable end, on a slab. The rest of t=
he shop is on pillars - https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/47333882=
43/in/dateposted-public/ .=20

From bottom to top: There is a lower skirting (about 25" high), a drip edge=
, a full sheet of T1-11, a drip edge, then (above that) the upper siding. =
There is felt against the studs; Against the wall, along the slab, there =
is 8" or 12" flashing (I don't recall what width), installed exterior of th=
e felt/studs and runs down the slab's side/edge at least an inch, maybe 2".=
If there is any moisture wicking up the back of the siding, the flashing=
keeps the moisture away from the studs.

All edges of the siding are bevel cut. The skirt's bottom edge is cut at =
45 degrees and the drip edge cuts are 30 degrees. The cut edges and up the=
back side (of the siding) are primed and painted before installing. Caulk=
ing was applied to the appropriate edges and drip edge before installing an=
d were re-caulked once installed.

As per pics, scroll left (from the starting pic) for the successive referen=
ced pics.
Pic 1 shows the flashing behind the lowest edge of the (skirt) siding. Th=
e bottom edge of the corner facing is beveled, also.... *shows some lawn mo=
wer & weed eater "damage", also. It's time to repaint!
Pic 2 shows the lowest drip edge (above the skirt).
Pic 3 shows the upper drip edge.
Pic 4 shows a bevel cut on a left-over piece of siding.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/17611896796/in/dateposted-public=
/

If you need any more pics, etc., just ask.

Sonny

Addendum: I screwed all the siding to the studs, thinking it would be easi=
er to remove any damaged parts/pieces, when need be. Some years ago, I in=
stalled T1-11 to my old garage and have recently had some repairs. The in=
stalled screws (screwed applications) were a pain to remove, for those repa=
irs. I wish I had experienced these recent repairs before doing the shop =
garage. I won't use screws to install any more T1-11 siding.

I would recommend using galvanized (casing?) nails to install your siding. =
I think (rather, I know!!!) the nailed application would be much easier t=
o remove, than the screwed-in application.

Sonny

>Saw your pics - http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
>Your doors look great. Good job.
>
>When weather permits, I'd recommend:
>1) Treat the siding with Jomax and bleach, as per Jomax directions. A gallon of Jomax should be enough to clean your whole house, as well, if need be. If you're up to the task, scrub the siding, also.
>
>1.a.) After the cleaning is done, you might spray all the siding with straight bleach. If there is any deep mold or mildew on the siding, you might want to treat it with concentrated bleach, without rising it off. Do the spraying on a good dry day, so that the bleach better penetrates into the crevices. Any mold or mildew (spores) may be deeper, than just on the wood's surface.
>
>2) Seems you may have to trim the bottoms, up, at least 10". Use a sharp tool or screw driver to stab the siding, to see where it is weak, rotted, decayed, etc. Don't be afraid to stab hard. Draw your trim line above the damage.
>
>3) Attach a board below the trim/cut line, so that your circular saw rests on the board, blade even with the cut line and beveled about 30 degrees.
>
>4) Prime the cut, well, when you prime the rest of the siding. Once primed, mark the siding (where you made the cut) as to where your wall's studs are (re: #6 below).
>
>5) For your application, wooden drip edges, as I have, may not be the best application. For a different application, I bought some 10' angled flashing, 4" on each leg, from Lowes.... like this http://www.lowes.com/pd_366940-18591-A3X4X7_4294736325__ , but 10' lengths. I can't find the 10' stuff, on Lowes link. This sort of drip edge may be better for your shed and better for installing, than wooden drip edging. Once installed, bend it to angle downward.
>
>5.a.) Whether you make your own drip edge or use metal flashing, caulk its installation, along the upper siding.
>
>6) Once the drip edge is installed, attach the bottom edge of the upper siding to the studs, if need be. That bottom edge might need attaching right near the cut line, if the next higher attachment is too high.
>
>7) Cut and prime for your replacement lower siding. Cut both top and bottom edges at 30 degrees. Prime the back side, also.
>
>8) Put a flashing along the lower edge of the building, before installing the replacement siding.
>
>The worst part of that job will be cutting the bad siding off. Kneeling and cutting with a circular saw, that way, is not fun.... at least for us old folks.
>
>Sonny


Sonny ... Thanks, this is great. I'm pretty sure I can see this
exactly in my head but I may hit you up again in spring if I have any
questions or oddities pop up. I think this is going to virtually
completely stop future rot, at least in my lifetime.

Ditto on the cutting part. My knees aren't great and getting worse
each year. I will probably have the brother-in-law do the cutting,
especially as he really likes playing with the power tools.

Thanks again for the information!
`Casper

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 3:59:16 PM UTC-6, Casper wrote:
>
> Wanted to say thanks for all your tips and info. Did some repairs on
> the shed but never got to do the sides like we talked about here.
>
> My other half walked out, took everything, and filed for divorce. Now
> someone else gets to deal with the shed as I left the house and it's
> being sold. Guess things get resolved one way or another, right?
>
> Cheers........
> `Casper

Well, hells bells! Just never know what's ahead of us. Think positive, circumstances may present for the better in the long run.

Sonny

Sonny...

Next weekend I will be finally working on the last of the shed
repairs. I plan to do it as you suggested with metal or plastic
flashing and caulk.

In reading down from 5a, did you flash both the upper and lower
siding? Or did you just caulk the new seam?

I will be putting flashing along the bottom and sealing with caulk to
keep the water and splash-up out of the wood.

I can't seem to locate the pictures of your shed that you posted. If
you still have them, would you mind doing a repost?

Hopefully this will be done in a couple weeks before the real hot
weather starts. I'll throw up some pics of the project when I can.

Once the shed is done, I have to start on our mini-deck/side stairs. I
spent quite a bit of cash on Behr paint a couple years ago on it and
it's all chipping and flaking off. I did some research and found a
lote of people are having the same problem. Only a few who have
complained received any compensation. No more Behr here!

Again, thanks for all your input.
`Casper

>>Saw your pics - http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
>>Your doors look great. Good job.
>>
>>When weather permits, I'd recommend:
>>1) Treat the siding with Jomax and bleach, as per Jomax directions. A gallon of Jomax should be enough to clean your whole house, as well, if need be. If you're up to the task, scrub the siding, also.
>>
>>1.a.) After the cleaning is done, you might spray all the siding with straight bleach. If there is any deep mold or mildew on the siding, you might want to treat it with concentrated bleach, without rising it off. Do the spraying on a good dry day, so that the bleach better penetrates into the crevices. Any mold or mildew (spores) may be deeper, than just on the wood's surface.
>>
>>2) Seems you may have to trim the bottoms, up, at least 10". Use a sharp tool or screw driver to stab the siding, to see where it is weak, rotted, decayed, etc. Don't be afraid to stab hard. Draw your trim line above the damage.
>>
>>3) Attach a board below the trim/cut line, so that your circular saw rests on the board, blade even with the cut line and beveled about 30 degrees.
>>
>>4) Prime the cut, well, when you prime the rest of the siding. Once primed, mark the siding (where you made the cut) as to where your wall's studs are (re: #6 below).
>>
>>5) For your application, wooden drip edges, as I have, may not be the best application. For a different application, I bought some 10' angled flashing, 4" on each leg, from Lowes.... like this http://www.lowes.com/pd_366940-18591-A3X4X7_4294736325__ , but 10' lengths. I can't find the 10' stuff, on Lowes link. This sort of drip edge may be better for your shed and better for installing, than wooden drip edging. Once installed, bend it to angle downward.
>>
>>5.a.) Whether you make your own drip edge or use metal flashing, caulk its installation, along the upper siding.
>>
>>6) Once the drip edge is installed, attach the bottom edge of the upper siding to the studs, if need be. That bottom edge might need attaching right near the cut line, if the next higher attachment is too high.
>>
>>7) Cut and prime for your replacement lower siding. Cut both top and bottom edges at 30 degrees. Prime the back side, also.
>>
>>8) Put a flashing along the lower edge of the building, before installing the replacement siding.
>>
>>The worst part of that job will be cutting the bad siding off. Kneeling and cutting with a circular saw, that way, is not fun.... at least for us old folks.
>>Sonny

>Sonny ... Thanks, this is great. I'm pretty sure I can see this
>exactly in my head but I may hit you up again in spring if I have any
>questions or oddities pop up. I think this is going to virtually
>completely stop future rot, at least in my lifetime.
>
>Ditto on the cutting part. My knees aren't great and getting worse
>each year. I will probably have the brother-in-law do the cutting,
>especially as he really likes playing with the power tools.
>
>Thanks again for the information!
>`Casper

>Saw your pics - http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
>Your doors look great. Good job.
>
>When weather permits, I'd recommend:
>1) Treat the siding with Jomax and bleach, as per Jomax directions. A gallon of Jomax should be enough to clean your whole house, as well, if need be. If you're up to the task, scrub the siding, also.
>
>1.a.) After the cleaning is done, you might spray all the siding with straight bleach. If there is any deep mold or mildew on the siding, you might want to treat it with concentrated bleach, without rising it off. Do the spraying on a good dry day, so that the bleach better penetrates into the crevices. Any mold or mildew (spores) may be deeper, than just on the wood's surface.
>
>2) Seems you may have to trim the bottoms, up, at least 10". Use a sharp tool or screw driver to stab the siding, to see where it is weak, rotted, decayed, etc. Don't be afraid to stab hard. Draw your trim line above the damage.
>
>3) Attach a board below the trim/cut line, so that your circular saw rests on the board, blade even with the cut line and beveled about 30 degrees.
>
>4) Prime the cut, well, when you prime the rest of the siding. Once primed, mark the siding (where you made the cut) as to where your wall's studs are (re: #6 below).
>
>5) For your application, wooden drip edges, as I have, may not be the best application. For a different application, I bought some 10' angled flashing, 4" on each leg, from Lowes.... like this http://www.lowes.com/pd_366940-18591-A3X4X7_4294736325__ , but 10' lengths. I can't find the 10' stuff, on Lowes link. This sort of drip edge may be better for your shed and better for installing, than wooden drip edging. Once installed, bend it to angle downward.
>
>5.a.) Whether you make your own drip edge or use metal flashing, caulk its installation, along the upper siding.
>
>6) Once the drip edge is installed, attach the bottom edge of the upper siding to the studs, if need be. That bottom edge might need attaching right near the cut line, if the next higher attachment is too high.
>
>7) Cut and prime for your replacement lower siding. Cut both top and bottom edges at 30 degrees. Prime the back side, also.
>
>8) Put a flashing along the lower edge of the building, before installing the replacement siding.
>
>The worst part of that job will be cutting the bad siding off. Kneeling and cutting with a circular saw, that way, is not fun.... at least for us old folks.
>
>Sonny


Sonny...

Wanted to say thanks for all your tips and info. Did some repairs on
the shed but never got to do the sides like we talked about here.

My other half walked out, took everything, and filed for divorce. Now
someone else gets to deal with the shed as I left the house and it's
being sold. Guess things get resolved one way or another, right?

Cheers........
`Casper