I am refinishing a t&g pine floor, it was in very bad condition but has
been patched, plugged and repaired. I've sanded and edged through 100
grit.
conventional wisdom would say to put two coats of gloss poly and a third
coat of satin on top and call it done, however, I very much dislike the
yellowing of the poly over time. This was how the floor was originally
finshed years ago and it has become more obnoxious as time went on.
One option is to use water based poly that supposedly doesn't yellow as
bad, but to me it is a terrible finish otherwise.
Second option would be to stain the floor a darker color and use oil based
poly, the darker color hiding the inevitable yellowing of the poly,
downside of this is it would require eons more of prep work to do a
creditable job of staining. Doable, but my joints hurt.
Third option would be to use one of the non yellowing conversion
varnishes or precat lacquers, are these finishes durable enough for floor
use? I have no experience with either of these products, are these
finishes reasonably easy to get good results with?
I do not like any water based finishes I have ever used, but I am open to
suggestions.
Any thoughts, advice?
basilisk
Summing up:
At our Yacht Club the pine floor was refinished and several coast of
Marine vanish were applied. We do have dents and scratches but its the
price we paid for the beauty of a natural Pine floor.
If you can live with a pine floor that easily accumulates dents, scratches
and other markings. Several coats of Marine Polyurethane varnish clear satin
finish will do the job fine.
I have, for your perusal, listed my thoughts as follows:
I have used all of the three options on eastern white pine furniture.
I like using Tung oil first and then water born vanish.
(Pure Tung oil cannot be used unless diluted with spirit or resin.
See Minwax Tung oil or it equivalent.)
Tung oil gives it a little honey shade and the water born vanish has no
color.
I also have used a natural deep penetrating resins know as Danish or Swedish
oil first to give the pine a little shade then I applied the clear water
born vanish.
I like the water born varnish because I can apply several coast in the same
day.
Fast-Drying clear satin Polyurethane does a decent job.
When I drop something hard on white eastern white a dent is created and
shows
the whiteness of the pine. That is quite challenging to fix.
I come to the conclusion that with a good quality oil finish (Tung/Danish or
Swedish) one can re-apply it easy without heavy sanding.
With Polyurethane or water born vanishes to refinish the floor is heavy
work.
The other solution is to use Virginia Pine which is much harder.
Denis
"basilisk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am refinishing a t&g pine floor, it was in very bad condition but has
> been patched, plugged and repaired. I've sanded and edged through 100
> grit.
>
> conventional wisdom would say to put two coats of gloss poly and a third
> coat of satin on top and call it done, however, I very much dislike the
> yellowing of the poly over time. This was how the floor was originally
> finshed years ago and it has become more obnoxious as time went on.
>
> One option is to use water based poly that supposedly doesn't yellow as
> bad, but to me it is a terrible finish otherwise.
>
> Second option would be to stain the floor a darker color and use oil based
> poly, the darker color hiding the inevitable yellowing of the poly,
> downside of this is it would require eons more of prep work to do a
> creditable job of staining. Doable, but my joints hurt.
>
> Third option would be to use one of the non yellowing conversion
> varnishes or precat lacquers, are these finishes durable enough for floor
> use? I have no experience with either of these products, are these
> finishes reasonably easy to get good results with?
>
> I do not like any water based finishes I have ever used, but I am open to
> suggestions.
>
> Any thoughts, advice?
>
> basilisk
>
"basilisk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 13:20:12 -0400, Denis
>>
>>
>>
>> At our Yacht Club the pine floor was refinished and several coast of
>>
>> Marine vanish were applied. We do have dents and scratches but its the
>>
>> price we paid for the beauty of a natural Pine floor.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you can live with a pine floor that easily accumulates dents,
>> scratches
>> and other markings. Several coats of Marine Polyurethane varnish clear
>> satin
>> finish will do the job fine.
>>
>
> Dents and scratches happen to pine, just the way it is.
> The first dozen will look really bad but after awhile it will develope a
> patina and none will really be noticable.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I have, for your perusal, listed my thoughts as follows:
>>
>>
>>
>> I have used all of the three options on eastern white pine furniture.
>>
>> I like using Tung oil first and then water born vanish.
>>
>> (Pure Tung oil cannot be used unless diluted with spirit or resin.
>>
>> See Minwax Tung oil or it equivalent.)
>>
>> Tung oil gives it a little honey shade and the water born vanish has no
>> color.
>>
>> I also have used a natural deep penetrating resins know as Danish or
>> Swedish
>> oil first to give the pine a little shade then I applied the clear water
>> born vanish.
>>
>> I like the water born varnish because I can apply several coast in the
>> same
>> day.
>>
>> Fast-Drying clear satin Polyurethane does a decent job.
>>
>> When I drop something hard on white eastern white a dent is created and
>> shows
>>
>> the whiteness of the pine. That is quite challenging to fix.
>>
>> I come to the conclusion that with a good quality oil finish (Tung/Danish
>> or
>> Swedish) one can re-apply it easy without heavy sanding.
>>
>> With Polyurethane or water born vanishes to refinish the floor is heavy
>> work.
>>
>> The other solution is to use Virginia Pine which is much harder.
>
> My floors are a mix of longleaf, loblolly and shortleaf all of which are
> harder than white pine or virginia pine, it will still dent but not show
> raw color like white pine.
>
> basilisk
Loblolly (Southern Yellow) Pine (Pinus taeda) and Longleaf (Southern Yellow)
Pine have a Janka Hardness ranging from 690 to 870.
Your floor must be very nice. I'd like to see picture of it.
I would try the best clear satin fast drying Polyurethane on a test piece
before doing the floor.
I do not like a shinny floor but you might.
After doing a few test pieces I would apply about 3 coats + of Polyurethane
or better.
Have a look at http://search.defender.com/?expression=deck+varnis
Rapidclear Varnish
Item # : 754308
Other equivalent product sold in your area under different names may be
available at a lower cost.
basilisk wrote:
> I am refinishing a t&g pine floor, it was in very bad condition but has
> been patched, plugged and repaired. I've sanded and edged through 100
> grit.
>
> conventional wisdom would say to put two coats of gloss poly and a third
> coat of satin on top and call it done, however, I very much dislike the
> yellowing of the poly over time. This was how the floor was originally
> finshed years ago and it has become more obnoxious as time went on.
>
> One option is to use water based poly that supposedly doesn't yellow as
> bad, but to me it is a terrible finish otherwise.
>
> Second option would be to stain the floor a darker color and use oil based
> poly, the darker color hiding the inevitable yellowing of the poly,
> downside of this is it would require eons more of prep work to do a
> creditable job of staining. Doable, but my joints hurt.
>
> Third option would be to use one of the non yellowing conversion
> varnishes or precat lacquers, are these finishes durable enough for floor
> use? I have no experience with either of these products, are these
> finishes reasonably easy to get good results with?
>
> I do not like any water based finishes I have ever used, but I am open to
> suggestions.
>
> Any thoughts, advice?
>
> basilisk
Wouldn't a conversion/catalyzed to cover the floor be a lot of trouble?
I mean you have so much time to work it, and also the fumes, etc.?
A water-based I think might be a good choice.
As Leon said though if the wood is going to yellow on it's own there
isn't anything to worry about since you won't stop it.
--
Michael Joel
parksfamily2 ------ ---- --- gmail ----- ----- com
replace dashes with correct symbols
>
> Any thoughts, advice?
>
> basilisk
I don't do floors (or windows) but I love using Nitrocellulous Lacquer
on pine projects specifically to get that wonderful yellowing over
time. No other real way to match that beautiful color. Of course much
of the yellowing comes from the pine itself aging. Maybe you should
rip out the pine and put down white vinyl.
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 13:20:12 -0400, Denis
>
>
>
> At our Yacht Club the pine floor was refinished and several coast of
>
> Marine vanish were applied. We do have dents and scratches but its the
>
> price we paid for the beauty of a natural Pine floor.
>
>
>
> If you can live with a pine floor that easily accumulates dents, scratches
> and other markings. Several coats of Marine Polyurethane varnish clear satin
> finish will do the job fine.
>
Dents and scratches happen to pine, just the way it is.
The first dozen will look really bad but after awhile it will develope a
patina and none will really be noticable.
>
>
>
>
> I have, for your perusal, listed my thoughts as follows:
>
>
>
> I have used all of the three options on eastern white pine furniture.
>
> I like using Tung oil first and then water born vanish.
>
> (Pure Tung oil cannot be used unless diluted with spirit or resin.
>
> See Minwax Tung oil or it equivalent.)
>
> Tung oil gives it a little honey shade and the water born vanish has no
> color.
>
> I also have used a natural deep penetrating resins know as Danish or Swedish
> oil first to give the pine a little shade then I applied the clear water
> born vanish.
>
> I like the water born varnish because I can apply several coast in the same
> day.
>
> Fast-Drying clear satin Polyurethane does a decent job.
>
> When I drop something hard on white eastern white a dent is created and
> shows
>
> the whiteness of the pine. That is quite challenging to fix.
>
> I come to the conclusion that with a good quality oil finish (Tung/Danish or
> Swedish) one can re-apply it easy without heavy sanding.
>
> With Polyurethane or water born vanishes to refinish the floor is heavy
> work.
>
> The other solution is to use Virginia Pine which is much harder.
My floors are a mix of longleaf, loblolly and shortleaf all of which are
harder than white pine or virginia pine, it will still dent but not show
raw color like white pine.
basilisk
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:18:40 -0800 (PST), SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>>
>> Any thoughts, advice?
>>
>> basilisk
>
> I don't do floors (or windows) but I love using Nitrocellulous Lacquer
> on pine projects specifically to get that wonderful yellowing over
> time. No other real way to match that beautiful color. Of course much
> of the yellowing comes from the pine itself aging. Maybe you should
> rip out the pine and put down white vinyl.
Well there is the natural yellow and there is the plastic yellow of poly
on top of that.
Maybe put a coat of light blue milk paint followee by shellac and a good
coat of wax. : (
basilisk
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:51:27 -0600, Leon wrote:
> On 2/29/2012 8:30 AM, basilisk wrote:
>> I am refinishing a t&g pine floor, it was in very bad condition but has
>> been patched, plugged and repaired. I've sanded and edged through 100
>> grit.
>>
>> conventional wisdom would say to put two coats of gloss poly and a third
>> coat of satin on top and call it done, however, I very much dislike the
>> yellowing of the poly over time. This was how the floor was originally
>> finshed years ago and it has become more obnoxious as time went on.
>>
>> One option is to use water based poly that supposedly doesn't yellow as
>> bad, but to me it is a terrible finish otherwise.
>>
>> Second option would be to stain the floor a darker color and use oil based
>> poly, the darker color hiding the inevitable yellowing of the poly,
>> downside of this is it would require eons more of prep work to do a
>> creditable job of staining. Doable, but my joints hurt.
>>
>> Third option would be to use one of the non yellowing conversion
>> varnishes or precat lacquers, are these finishes durable enough for floor
>> use? I have no experience with either of these products, are these
>> finishes reasonably easy to get good results with?
>>
>> I do not like any water based finishes I have ever used, but I am open to
>> suggestions.
>>
>> Any thoughts, advice?
>>
>> basilisk
>
>
> First off if the pine floor is SYP, it is naturally yellow. Oil based
> anything will add a golden tone more so than a water based finish.
>
> So If you are refinishing SYP you are probably going to get yellow
> regardless of what clear product you use.
>
> Staining may be your answer with the varnish of your choice.
Yep it is SYP and some yellowing is to be expected, in some areas
of the house the floor has aged to a more graceful reddish tint, same wood
same finish similar light exposure, only difference I can contribute from
one area to another is that the humidity would have been somewhat higher
in the redder areas. The yellower area, was seldom occupied, but heated
and cooled just the same.
Some of the clear products have UV blockers that might slow the yellowing
of the pine itself.
You are probably right, may be simpler to stain and poly than to try and
prevent the inevitable.
This is going to be a test area, if in two years I like the results at
that time the rest of the house will recieve similar finishing.
basilisk
On 2/29/2012 8:30 AM, basilisk wrote:
> I am refinishing a t&g pine floor, it was in very bad condition but has
> been patched, plugged and repaired. I've sanded and edged through 100
> grit.
>
> conventional wisdom would say to put two coats of gloss poly and a third
> coat of satin on top and call it done, however, I very much dislike the
> yellowing of the poly over time. This was how the floor was originally
> finshed years ago and it has become more obnoxious as time went on.
>
> One option is to use water based poly that supposedly doesn't yellow as
> bad, but to me it is a terrible finish otherwise.
>
> Second option would be to stain the floor a darker color and use oil based
> poly, the darker color hiding the inevitable yellowing of the poly,
> downside of this is it would require eons more of prep work to do a
> creditable job of staining. Doable, but my joints hurt.
>
> Third option would be to use one of the non yellowing conversion
> varnishes or precat lacquers, are these finishes durable enough for floor
> use? I have no experience with either of these products, are these
> finishes reasonably easy to get good results with?
>
> I do not like any water based finishes I have ever used, but I am open to
> suggestions.
>
> Any thoughts, advice?
>
> basilisk
First off if the pine floor is SYP, it is naturally yellow. Oil based
anything will add a golden tone more so than a water based finish.
So If you are refinishing SYP you are probably going to get yellow
regardless of what clear product you use.
Staining may be your answer with the varnish of your choice.