I am using a Bosch 10 inch SCMS with a Woodworker 1 blade. The
blade is clean and sharp and I am cutting 1x4 poplar (sealed and then
painted on one side). When I lie the board flat on the table and make
a 90 degree (bevel and miter angles) cut through, it makes a clean cut
on both sides of the cut. However, when I cut a 45 degree bevel it
burns one side of the wood. The side that burns is the one above the
blade. During the cut, the board is clamped to the table. Pushing
the blade through is also much harder. I can find no alignment
adjustments that would allow the blade to go through the wood
"cocked".
Anybody out there have the same problem and a solution.
Len
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in news:3bbef0b7-031d-4784-b7fa-
[email protected]:
> I am using a Bosch 10 inch SCMS with a Woodworker 1 blade. The
> blade is clean and sharp and I am cutting 1x4 poplar (sealed and then
> painted on one side). When I lie the board flat on the table and make
> a 90 degree (bevel and miter angles) cut through, it makes a clean cut
> on both sides of the cut. However, when I cut a 45 degree bevel it
> burns one side of the wood. The side that burns is the one above the
> blade. During the cut, the board is clamped to the table. Pushing
> the blade through is also much harder. I can find no alignment
> adjustments that would allow the blade to go through the wood
> "cocked".
This could happen if your stock isn't flat, and you're cutting it concave side down so that
there's a small gap between the stock and the bed of the saw, right under the blade. As the
wood is cut, the waste side is no longer holding up the wood. The clamp pressure on the
other side forces the wood downward, pressing it against the blade, and burning it. It
doesn't take very much movement at all to cause this -- a gap of even 1/64" could be
enough.
Make sure that both the bed of the saw, and the stock being cut, are flat. And clamp the
wood on the low side of the blade, but *not* on the high side.