I think I've set myself an impossible task, at least with my skill level
and tool complement. I'm finally making the last pieces of my cookbook
shelf units before I can start the prefinishing: The tops. They consist
of a rectangle of 3/4" with solid 1x3 borders:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
And I think I've come up with a pretty good jig for cutting the miters
(I don't have a table saw):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15265925728/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
It's a take-off on the mitering sleds I've seen online, except in my
case the blade moves rather than the work. I tried to align things as
best I could and made some test pieces. I started with them a hair long
and then shaved them down bit by bit.
The results were not too bad; certainly a more accurate than any miters
I've made previously. And I think I could even improve my method a
little bit. But I'm sure that my eyesight will always be a little better
than the fit at the corners, with my glasses on, at least. Here's the
worst one:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15452534005/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
** I think I may have lost track of which was the top and bottom of a
couple of my test pieces, thus negating the "self-correction" provided
by cutting mating pieces from opposite sides of the jig.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On Sunday, October 5, 2014 7:20:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
> On Sunday, October 5, 2014 6:24:50 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
> > I think I've set myself an impossible task, at least with my skill level
>
> >
>
> > and tool complement. I'm finally making the last pieces of my cookbook
>
> >
>
> > shelf units before I can start the prefinishing: The tops. They consist
>
> >
>
> > of a rectangle of 3/4" with solid 1x3 borders:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > And I think I've come up with a pretty good jig for cutting the miters
>
> >
>
> > (I don't have a table saw):
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15265925728/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > It's a take-off on the mitering sleds I've seen online, except in my
>
> >
>
> > case the blade moves rather than the work. I tried to align things as
>
> >
>
> > best I could and made some test pieces. I started with them a hair long
>
> >
>
> > and then shaved them down bit by bit.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > The results were not too bad; certainly a more accurate than any miters
>
> >
>
> > I've made previously. And I think I could even improve my method a
>
> >
>
> > little bit. But I'm sure that my eyesight will always be a little better
>
> >
>
> > than the fit at the corners, with my glasses on, at least. Here's the
>
> >
>
> > worst one:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15452534005/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
>
> >
>
> > some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
>
> >
>
> > will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
>
> >
>
> > biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
>
> >
>
> > biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > ** I think I may have lost track of which was the top and bottom of a
>
> >
>
> > couple of my test pieces, thus negating the "self-correction" provided
>
> >
>
> > by cutting mating pieces from opposite sides of the jig.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > ---
>
> >
>
> > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>
> >
>
> > http://www.avast.com
>
>
>
> Did you make your jig so you can make micro-adjustments? It looks to be just a touch off.
>
>
>
> To secure the table top, you might try some of these bad boys. There are variations.
>
>
>
> http://www.rockler.com/desk-top-fasteners
I'm sorry. I just re-read your post and I thought you were talking about something else. Please disregard.
On Sunday, October 5, 2014 6:24:50 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I think I've set myself an impossible task, at least with my skill level
>
> and tool complement. I'm finally making the last pieces of my cookbook
>
> shelf units before I can start the prefinishing: The tops. They consist
>
> of a rectangle of 3/4" with solid 1x3 borders:
>
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
>
> And I think I've come up with a pretty good jig for cutting the miters
>
> (I don't have a table saw):
>
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15265925728/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
>
> It's a take-off on the mitering sleds I've seen online, except in my
>
> case the blade moves rather than the work. I tried to align things as
>
> best I could and made some test pieces. I started with them a hair long
>
> and then shaved them down bit by bit.
>
>
>
> The results were not too bad; certainly a more accurate than any miters
>
> I've made previously. And I think I could even improve my method a
>
> little bit. But I'm sure that my eyesight will always be a little better
>
> than the fit at the corners, with my glasses on, at least. Here's the
>
> worst one:
>
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15452534005/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
>
> Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
>
> some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
>
>
>
> While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
>
> will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
>
> biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
>
> biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
>
>
>
> ** I think I may have lost track of which was the top and bottom of a
>
> couple of my test pieces, thus negating the "self-correction" provided
>
> by cutting mating pieces from opposite sides of the jig.
>
>
>
> ---
>
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>
> http://www.avast.com
Did you make your jig so you can make micro-adjustments? It looks to be just a touch off.
To secure the table top, you might try some of these bad boys. There are variations.
http://www.rockler.com/desk-top-fasteners
On Sunday, October 5, 2014 6:24:50 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I think I've set myself an impossible task, at least with my skill level
>
> and tool complement. I'm finally making the last pieces of my cookbook
>
> shelf units before I can start the prefinishing: The tops. They consist
>
> of a rectangle of 3/4" with solid 1x3 borders:
>
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
>
> And I think I've come up with a pretty good jig for cutting the miters
>
> (I don't have a table saw):
>
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15265925728/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
>
> It's a take-off on the mitering sleds I've seen online, except in my
>
> case the blade moves rather than the work. I tried to align things as
>
> best I could and made some test pieces. I started with them a hair long
>
> and then shaved them down bit by bit.
>
>
>
> The results were not too bad; certainly a more accurate than any miters
>
> I've made previously. And I think I could even improve my method a
>
> little bit. But I'm sure that my eyesight will always be a little better
>
> than the fit at the corners, with my glasses on, at least. Here's the
>
> worst one:
>
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15452534005/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
>
> Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
>
> some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
>
>
>
> While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
>
> will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
>
> biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
>
> biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
>
>
>
> ** I think I may have lost track of which was the top and bottom of a
>
> couple of my test pieces, thus negating the "self-correction" provided
>
> by cutting mating pieces from opposite sides of the jig.
>
>
>
> ---
>
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>
> http://www.avast.com
One more thing occurs to me about your miters. If you jig is a true 90 degrees, you should be able to cut a miter *from the other side* and so that they match perfectly, even if the 45 isn't perfect. Just a thought.
On Sun, 05 Oct 2014 19:24:50 -0400, Greg Guarino wrote:
> Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
> some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
>
All sorts of fixes if the miters didn't have to fit around the plywood -
but all of them shorten the edging so it doesn't fit any more.
If your jig is square and/or you carefully mark mating pieces for cutting
on opposite sides you'll come out pretty well, but I see one possible
problem. I can only see one clamp on the piece. If there isn't another
one out of sight, it's possible for the piece to rotate a tiny amount.
Just enough to give the kind of result in your example. Use two clamps
and make sure they're tight.
> While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
> will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
> biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
> biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
I'd cut a slot in frame and plywood and use a spline.
One trick I've seen on the corners is to cut one or two shallow (1/16" or
so) plugs and cut a recess in the corners to hold them. Put the grain of
the plug(s) across the joint.
On 10/5/2014 7:24 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I think I've set myself an impossible task, at least with my skill level
> and tool complement. I'm finally making the last pieces of my cookbook
> shelf units before I can start the prefinishing: The tops. They consist
> of a rectangle of 3/4" with solid 1x3 borders:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> And I think I've come up with a pretty good jig for cutting the miters
> (I don't have a table saw):
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15265925728/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> It's a take-off on the mitering sleds I've seen online, except in my
> case the blade moves rather than the work. I tried to align things as
> best I could and made some test pieces. I started with them a hair long
> and then shaved them down bit by bit.
>
> The results were not too bad; certainly a more accurate than any miters
> I've made previously. And I think I could even improve my method a
> little bit. But I'm sure that my eyesight will always be a little better
> than the fit at the corners, with my glasses on, at least. Here's the
> worst one:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15452534005/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
> some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
>
> While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
> will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
> biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
> biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
>
> ** I think I may have lost track of which was the top and bottom of a
> couple of my test pieces, thus negating the "self-correction" provided
> by cutting mating pieces from opposite sides of the jig.
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
While you have added another factor with the center section, I use a
slight different technique to get good corners.
I make a lot of picture frames and stretchers for my wife, There are two
factors to get good joints, the angle and the length. I use a fixed 45
miter gauge on my table saw. I then cut the sides about a quarter inch
proud of the length of the final frame size. The using staples I fasten
the oposite sides together, and slowly trim the sides to the correct
length with multiple cuts. Once cut, I remove the staples and mark the
bottom to identify the paired sides. I have also marked them on the
inside of the frame.
I use a router table and slot cutter to cut the biscuit slots and glue
them together with wrap around clamps (bars screwed in to corner blocks)
I continue to check every thing with a good triangle square.
With the top as you have designed the length of the sides must be
perfect. If I were doing it I would cut two scrape pieces of the side
material, clamp them to the table around the center piece, Then trim
one set of pair sides until they were the perfect length. Once I had
them, I would clamp them to the table around the center piece and cut
the other pair side to perfectly fit between the other two sides.
I need not tell you that to get the corners you have, will only require
a couple of thousands of an inch trim of the paired sides.
I have found that the marks made by the staples are so thin that by the
time you have completed the finishing they nearly disappear. Of course
that will depend on the staples you use. I use Arrow 1/4" T50 Type
Staples Box of 1250 or the slightly larger 3/8"
On 10/5/2014 8:24 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 10/5/2014 7:24 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> I think I've set myself an impossible task, at least with my skill level
>> and tool complement. I'm finally making the last pieces of my cookbook
>> shelf units before I can start the prefinishing: The tops. They consist
>> of a rectangle of 3/4" with solid 1x3 borders:
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>>
>>
>>
>> And I think I've come up with a pretty good jig for cutting the miters
>> (I don't have a table saw):
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15265925728/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>>
>>
>>
>> It's a take-off on the mitering sleds I've seen online, except in my
>> case the blade moves rather than the work. I tried to align things as
>> best I could and made some test pieces. I started with them a hair long
>> and then shaved them down bit by bit.
>>
>> The results were not too bad; certainly a more accurate than any miters
>> I've made previously. And I think I could even improve my method a
>> little bit. But I'm sure that my eyesight will always be a little better
>> than the fit at the corners, with my glasses on, at least. Here's the
>> worst one:
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15452534005/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>>
>>
>>
>> Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
>> some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
>>
>> While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
>> will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
>> biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
>> biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
>>
>> ** I think I may have lost track of which was the top and bottom of a
>> couple of my test pieces, thus negating the "self-correction" provided
>> by cutting mating pieces from opposite sides of the jig.
>>
>> ---
>> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
>> protection is active.
>> http://www.avast.com
>>
> While you have added another factor with the center section, I use a
> slight different technique to get good corners.
>
> I make a lot of picture frames and stretchers for my wife, There are two
> factors to get good joints, the angle and the length. I use a fixed 45
> miter gauge on my table saw. I then cut the sides about a quarter inch
> proud of the length of the final frame size. The using staples I fasten
> the oposite sides together, and slowly trim the sides to the correct
> length with multiple cuts. Once cut, I remove the staples and mark the
> bottom to identify the paired sides. I have also marked them on the
> inside of the frame.
>
> I use a router table and slot cutter to cut the biscuit slots and glue
> them together with wrap around clamps (bars screwed in to corner blocks)
> I continue to check every thing with a good triangle square.
>
> With the top as you have designed the length of the sides must be
> perfect. If I were doing it I would cut two scrape pieces of the side
> material, clamp them to the table around the center piece, Then trim
> one set of pair sides until they were the perfect length. Once I had
> them, I would clamp them to the table around the center piece and cut
> the other pair side to perfectly fit between the other two sides.
>
> I need not tell you that to get the corners you have, will only require
> a couple of thousands of an inch trim of the paired sides.
>
> I have found that the marks made by the staples are so thin that by the
> time you have completed the finishing they nearly disappear. Of course
> that will depend on the staples you use. I use Arrow 1/4" T50 Type
> Staples Box of 1250 or the slightly larger 3/8"
>
This is what I use, there are other manufactures, and while it takes a
little more time to set them up, I prefer the type that can not be slide.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=31162&cat=1,43293,31162
With this type of clamp you can pull the side together a little better
that you can with your jig.
With above type of clamps you do not need an elaborate jig. With your
jig or with the I indicated above, the primary determinate in the
squareness with be the precision the center piece as the frame can not
be any more square the the center section.
On 10/5/2014 7:24 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I think I've set myself an impossible task, at least with my skill level
> and tool complement. I'm finally making the last pieces of my cookbook
> shelf units before I can start the prefinishing: The tops. They consist
> of a rectangle of 3/4" with solid 1x3 borders:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> And I think I've come up with a pretty good jig for cutting the miters
> (I don't have a table saw):
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15265925728/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> It's a take-off on the mitering sleds I've seen online, except in my
> case the blade moves rather than the work. I tried to align things as
> best I could and made some test pieces. I started with them a hair long
> and then shaved them down bit by bit.
>
> The results were not too bad; certainly a more accurate than any miters
> I've made previously. And I think I could even improve my method a
> little bit. But I'm sure that my eyesight will always be a little better
> than the fit at the corners, with my glasses on, at least. Here's the
> worst one:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15452534005/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
>
> Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
> some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
>
> While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
> will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
> biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
> biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
>
> ** I think I may have lost track of which was the top and bottom of a
> couple of my test pieces, thus negating the "self-correction" provided
> by cutting mating pieces from opposite sides of the jig.
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
This is my third post on your corner. I looked at your corner again as
I was closing the browser, and had another thought.
As I said in my first post you are within a couple of thousandth of and
inch on the dimension of getting the gap closed.
I have you thought about using placing a strip of sandpaper on a long
board and removing a thousandth of an inch from the center piece?
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>I think I've set myself an impossible task, at least with my skill level and tool complement. I'm
>finally making the last pieces of my cookbook shelf units before I can start the prefinishing: The
>tops. They consist of a rectangle of 3/4" with solid 1x3 borders:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> And I think I've come up with a pretty good jig for cutting the miters (I don't have a table saw):
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15265925728/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> It's a take-off on the mitering sleds I've seen online, except in my case the blade moves rather
> than the work. I tried to align things as best I could and made some test pieces. I started with
> them a hair long and then shaved them down bit by bit.
>
> The results were not too bad; certainly a more accurate than any miters I've made previously. And
> I think I could even improve my method a little bit. But I'm sure that my eyesight will always be
> a little better than the fit at the corners, with my glasses on, at least. Here's the worst one:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15452534005/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be some "disguising" to do.
> Any thoughts?
>
> While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom will never be seen. I'm
> thinking to put the corners together with small biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the
> plywood with either biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
>
> ** I think I may have lost track of which was the top and bottom of a couple of my test pieces,
> thus negating the "self-correction" provided by cutting mating pieces from opposite sides of the
> jig.
>
Assuming you have a hand plane ...
Make a shooting board for the miter. After cutting the coarse miters
with your chop saw (leave the boards a bit long) final trim to size &fit
on the shooting board. If you start with boards that are wider than
needed you can trim the inside edge to make the board "longer" should
you over trim a miter.
Art
On 10/5/2014 8:14 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Sun, 05 Oct 2014 19:24:50 -0400, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>> Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
>> some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
>>
>
> All sorts of fixes if the miters didn't have to fit around the plywood -
> but all of them shorten the edging so it doesn't fit any more.
>
> If your jig is square and/or you carefully mark mating pieces for cutting
> on opposite sides
I think this may have been a source of error. I may have confused "Up"
with "Down", resulting in two "left" cuts being mated rather than a left
and right.
you'll come out pretty well, but I see one possible
> problem. I can only see one clamp on the piece. If there isn't another
> one out of sight, it's possible for the piece to rotate a tiny amount.
> Just enough to give the kind of result in your example. Use two clamps
> and make sure they're tight.
I don't think that was the problem. I also held the piece against the
jig with my hand, further from the blade. I considered adding two more
clamps, and I may still do it, but I doubt that the pieces moved.
>
>
>> While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
>> will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
>> biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
>> biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
>
> I'd cut a slot in frame and plywood and use a spline.
I could cut the slot OK (router table), but I don't think my tool
complement is well-suited to making a long spline.
>
> One trick I've seen on the corners is to cut one or two shallow (1/16" or
> so) plugs and cut a recess in the corners to hold them. Put the grain of
> the plug(s) across the joint.
>
Hmmm. I'm having trouble visualizing this. Do you have a photo?
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"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> I think I've set myself an impossible task, at least with my skill level
> and tool complement. I'm finally making the last pieces of my cookbook
> shelf units before I can start the prefinishing: The tops. They consist
> of a rectangle of 3/4" with solid 1x3 borders:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> And I think I've come up with a pretty good jig for cutting the miters
> (I don't have a table saw):
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15429467526/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15265925728/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> It's a take-off on the mitering sleds I've seen online, except in my
> case the blade moves rather than the work. I tried to align things as
> best I could and made some test pieces. I started with them a hair long
> and then shaved them down bit by bit.
>
> The results were not too bad; certainly a more accurate than any miters
> I've made previously. And I think I could even improve my method a
> little bit. But I'm sure that my eyesight will always be a little better
> than the fit at the corners, with my glasses on, at least. Here's the
> worst one:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/15452534005/in/set-72157644207411490/lightbox/
>
> Now I may be able to do better**, but I'm convinced there will always be
> some "disguising" to do. Any thoughts?
Step #1: determine the cause
1. joints not cut at 45 degrees
2. assembly not square
3. both
> While we're at it, how would you fasten the frame pieces? The bottom
> will never be seen. I'm thinking to put the corners together with small
> biscuits, and to fasten the frame pieces to the plywood with either
> biscuits or pocket screws. Opinions?
There aren't grooves in the frame for the panel? Apparently not, judging
from what you say. If not, I would make them and a tongue on the panel;
or splines. Or matching rabbets on both frame & panel. Once done, glue,
no fasteners.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 10/5/2014 8:14 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> > I'd cut a slot in frame and plywood and use a spline.
>
> I could cut the slot OK (router table), but I don't think my tool
> complement is well-suited to making a long spline.
Rip them out of a piece of hardboard or 1/4" ply. Accuracy in width is
not required as long as it is less than the combined depth of the slots.
They don't have to be long, either...multiple short pieces work just fine.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
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On Sun, 05 Oct 2014 22:13:43 -0400, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> One trick I've seen on the corners is to cut one or two shallow (1/16"
>> or so) plugs and cut a recess in the corners to hold them. Put the
>> grain of the plug(s) across the joint.
>>
> Hmmm. I'm having trouble visualizing this. Do you have a photo?
There's an ugly example on this page:
http://www.leevalley.com/us/newsletters/Woodworking/7/3/article1-3.htm