I may have asked this before; if so, apologies but if I did ask I didn't
get solutions that worked for me.
I need to build a pair of sofa tables to wrap around a sectional; ie, the
tables will be at right angles to each other. The distance along the long
wing of the sectional is ten feet. I plan to make the tables about 16" wide
and 28" tall.
My problem lies in where the tables will meet..they will have to be moved
occasionally for cleaning/whatever so I need for them to be firmly joined
but easily separated. I'm thinking of reducing the length of the tables
themselves by 16" each and using a third piece at the juncture, 16" square
and full width sides rather than separate legs (like a cabinet), but how to
hook the whole works together?
I could, of course, simply screw each long table to the 16" square one but
I'm looking for a more elegant way...one that doesn't make holes in the
nice, expensive mahogany I'll be using. I also thought of putting a bracket
on the 16" square table - I don't mind marring it - that would hook under
the adjacent end rails of the long tables; with that scenario, each long
table would only have legs at the outboard end. That could work but would
leave the inboard end of the long tables unsupported when they are
unattached; still, that's the best solution I've come up with yet.
Other ideas?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
dadiOH <[email protected]> wrote:
> I may have asked this before; if so, apologies but if I
> did ask I
> didn't get solutions that worked for me.
>
> I need to build a pair of sofa tables to wrap around a
> sectional; ie,
> the tables will be at right angles to each other. The
> distance along
> the long wing of the sectional is ten feet. I plan to
> make the
> tables about 16" wide and 28" tall.
>
> My problem lies in where the tables will meet..they will
> have to be
> moved occasionally for cleaning/whatever so I need for
> them to be
> firmly joined but easily separated. I'm thinking of
> reducing the
> length of the tables themselves by 16" each and using a
> third piece
> at the juncture, 16" square and full width sides rather
> than separate
> legs (like a cabinet), but how to hook the whole works
> together?
>
> I could, of course, simply screw each long table to the
> 16" square
> one but I'm looking for a more elegant way...one that
> doesn't make
> holes in the nice, expensive mahogany I'll be using. I
> also thought
> of putting a bracket on the 16" square table - I don't
> mind marring
> it - that would hook under the adjacent end rails of the
> long tables;
> with that scenario, each long table would only have legs
> at the
> outboard end. That could work but would leave the inboard
> end of the
> long tables unsupported when they are unattached; still,
> that's the
> best solution I've come up with yet.
> Other ideas?
would this work?
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=sectional+connector+brackets&id=2A65BD71D50A385E1A111C891806AC484DD797D9&FORM=IQFRBA#view=detail&id=89150719E65ADFC81F8118332112536BED6578DB&selectedIndex=9
or
http://preview.tinyurl.com/kygna9l
On 10/24/2013 10:15 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> Other ideas?
Here's one:
Go ahead and make your two tables with four legs. Fasten the square
"table top" between the two using french cleats on two adjacent sides.
This will give you the flexibility you want, and make fabrication and
design much easier.
The desk top attaching these two tansu cabinets with french cleats
illustrates what I'm talking about.
The desktop has no legs, but keeps the two large cabinet arrays from moving:
https://plus.google.com/photos/111355467778981859077/albums/5669704268273941697?banner=pwa
While I did not make any effort to hide the french cleats in this case,
that would be quite easy to do with a little thought.
Also, there other french cleat solutions that are off the shelf, like
some of the metal variety.
FWIW ...
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 10/25/2013 12:23 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> "woodchucker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> On 10/24/2013 11:15 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>>> I may have asked this before; if so, apologies but if
>>> I did ask I didn't get solutions that worked for me.
>>>
>>> I need to build a pair of sofa tables to wrap around a
>>> sectional; ie, the tables will be at right angles to
>>> each other. The distance along the long wing of the
>>> sectional is ten feet. I plan to make the tables about
>>> 16" wide and 28" tall. My problem lies in where the tables will
>>> meet..they
>>> will have to be moved occasionally for
>>> cleaning/whatever so I need for them to be firmly
>>> joined but easily separated. I'm thinking of reducing
>>> the length of the tables themselves by 16" each and
>>> using a third piece at the juncture, 16" square and
>>> full width sides rather than separate legs (like a
>>> cabinet), but how to hook the whole works together? I could, of course,
>>> simply screw each long table to the
>>> 16" square one but I'm looking for a more elegant
>>> way...one that doesn't make holes in the nice,
>>> expensive mahogany I'll be using. I also thought of
>>> putting a bracket on the 16" square table - I don't
>>> mind marring it - that would hook under the adjacent
>>> end rails of the long tables; with that scenario, each
>>> long table would only have legs at the outboard end.
>>> That could work but would leave the inboard end of the
>>> long tables unsupported when they are unattached;
>>> still, that's the best solution I've come up with yet. Other ideas?
>>>
>>
>> See alt binaries. I think that locking joint might be the
>> ticket.. it allows you to lock them together or pick up a
>> piece and move them apart.
>
> Thanks. That's pretty much what I had visualized for the bracket I
> mentioned.
>
Cool then great minds think alike ;-)
--
Jeff
On 10/24/2013 11:15 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> I may have asked this before; if so, apologies but if I did ask I didn't
> get solutions that worked for me.
>
> I need to build a pair of sofa tables to wrap around a sectional; ie, the
> tables will be at right angles to each other. The distance along the long
> wing of the sectional is ten feet. I plan to make the tables about 16" wide
> and 28" tall.
>
> My problem lies in where the tables will meet..they will have to be moved
> occasionally for cleaning/whatever so I need for them to be firmly joined
> but easily separated. I'm thinking of reducing the length of the tables
> themselves by 16" each and using a third piece at the juncture, 16" square
> and full width sides rather than separate legs (like a cabinet), but how to
> hook the whole works together?
>
> I could, of course, simply screw each long table to the 16" square one but
> I'm looking for a more elegant way...one that doesn't make holes in the
> nice, expensive mahogany I'll be using. I also thought of putting a bracket
> on the 16" square table - I don't mind marring it - that would hook under
> the adjacent end rails of the long tables; with that scenario, each long
> table would only have legs at the outboard end. That could work but would
> leave the inboard end of the long tables unsupported when they are
> unattached; still, that's the best solution I've come up with yet.
>
> Other ideas?
>
See alt binaries. I think that locking joint might be the ticket.. it
allows you to lock them together or pick up a piece and move them apart.
--
Jeff
On Thursday, October 24, 2013 10:36:55 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> Here's one: Go ahead and make your two tables with four legs. Fasten the=
square "table top" between the two using french cleats on two adjacent sid=
es.=20
Another 2 options: 1) For a two unit configuration, where the two long tabl=
es meet, diagonally, attach them together along their mating diagonal skirt=
s, with keyed pegs, and 2) For a three piece unit, with a corner table, don=
't make skirts for the square corner, and extend the long table skirts, for=
attaching to the square corner table.
Sonny
On Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:36:55 -0500, Swingman wrote:
> Go ahead and make your two tables with four legs. Fasten the square
> "table top" between the two using french cleats on two adjacent sides.
Or make the two tables with a 45 degree end and fasten them together in
any one of a dozen ways. Being lazy, I'd just use a couple of bolts and
wing nuts underneath where they wouldn't show.
--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.
On 10/24/2013 8:15 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> I may have asked this before; if so, apologies but if I did ask I didn't
> get solutions that worked for me.
>
> I need to build a pair of sofa tables to wrap around a sectional; ie, the
> tables will be at right angles to each other. The distance along the long
> wing of the sectional is ten feet. I plan to make the tables about 16" wide
> and 28" tall.
>
> My problem lies in where the tables will meet..they will have to be moved
> occasionally for cleaning/whatever so I need for them to be firmly joined
> but easily separated. I'm thinking of reducing the length of the tables
> themselves by 16" each and using a third piece at the juncture, 16" square
> and full width sides rather than separate legs (like a cabinet), but how to
> hook the whole works together?
>
> I could, of course, simply screw each long table to the 16" square one but
> I'm looking for a more elegant way...one that doesn't make holes in the
> nice, expensive mahogany I'll be using. I also thought of putting a bracket
> on the 16" square table - I don't mind marring it - that would hook under
> the adjacent end rails of the long tables; with that scenario, each long
> table would only have legs at the outboard end. That could work but would
> leave the inboard end of the long tables unsupported when they are
> unattached; still, that's the best solution I've come up with yet.
>
> Other ideas?
>
make the ends be diagonal and use the fasteners they use for joining
kitchen counter tops together in a corner.
if they have to be able to be used individually, make them overlap so
that the join is at the end of one of tables to abut the side of the end
of the other one.
dadiOH wrote:
> My problem lies in where the tables will meet..they will have to be moved
> occasionally for cleaning/whatever so I need for them to be firmly joined
> but easily separated. I'm thinking of reducing the length of the tables
> themselves by 16" each and using a third piece at the juncture, 16" square
> and full width sides rather than separate legs (like a cabinet), but how to
> hook the whole works together?
>
> Other ideas?
>
How about a couple latches normally used to lock double hung windows on
the inside? You could mount them upside-down on the bottom of the rails.
I would object to any type of latch that protruded or was unsightly,
because you never know when you would want to use one on its own, or
where the end was exposed. I move furniture at Christmas, and that
would apply.
--
Jim in NC
"woodchucker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 10/24/2013 11:15 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> > I may have asked this before; if so, apologies but if
> > I did ask I didn't get solutions that worked for me.
> >
> > I need to build a pair of sofa tables to wrap around a
> > sectional; ie, the tables will be at right angles to
> > each other. The distance along the long wing of the
> > sectional is ten feet. I plan to make the tables about
> > 16" wide and 28" tall. My problem lies in where the tables will
> > meet..they
> > will have to be moved occasionally for
> > cleaning/whatever so I need for them to be firmly
> > joined but easily separated. I'm thinking of reducing
> > the length of the tables themselves by 16" each and
> > using a third piece at the juncture, 16" square and
> > full width sides rather than separate legs (like a
> > cabinet), but how to hook the whole works together? I could, of course,
> > simply screw each long table to the
> > 16" square one but I'm looking for a more elegant
> > way...one that doesn't make holes in the nice,
> > expensive mahogany I'll be using. I also thought of
> > putting a bracket on the 16" square table - I don't
> > mind marring it - that would hook under the adjacent
> > end rails of the long tables; with that scenario, each
> > long table would only have legs at the outboard end.
> > That could work but would leave the inboard end of the
> > long tables unsupported when they are unattached;
> > still, that's the best solution I've come up with yet. Other ideas?
> >
>
> See alt binaries. I think that locking joint might be the
> ticket.. it allows you to lock them together or pick up a
> piece and move them apart.
Thanks. That's pretty much what I had visualized for the bracket I
mentioned.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
Thanks to all of you for your input.
The simplest would be French cleats - and I *am* considering them; the
downside is that holes would have to be made for attachment. One of these
days in the not too distant future I'll be dropping dead or wife and I will
have to move to a death holding pen (aka "retirement home"). In either
case, lots of stuff would have to be sold and holes can be a deal breaker.
OTOH, how many people want 10' long sofa tables? :)
I'm also still thinking about your various other suggestions. Draw bolts
too.
Again, thanks.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net